Do you usually throw out the crossovers that came with the speakers if you are using an equalizer like this? As it stands I have the ability to modify the signal like 3 times, which seems a bit ridiculous. And none of those modifications are good enough to give me the results I want.

Why has this not been discussed before? I would think this would be in car audio 101.

So the passive crossovers that came with the system must stay intact. I think I understand why with the positioning of the crossovers and amp configuration, but could you maybe explain a bit just so I'm sure?

Also, any other info you could write in here for crossover workings and signal filtering would be cool. I feel like this is something many people need to read more about - or maybe I'm the only one that doesn't know enough. Anyway give me input!

http://www.mobileaudiocontrol....26063

My crossovers work between the amplifier output and the speakers (passive) unlike the way they have their system set up in the diagram. The crossovers for BA speakers offer minimal adjustment (I guess because they are passive?) and simply split the signal between the mid and high components.

So would removing this BA factory passive crossovers be something worth doing if I were to upgrade to the DQXS, or would I still need to leave it intact? Thanks again!

Modified by hysteria at 4:21 PM 8/13/2008

I would still need the passive crossovers in order to split the signal after the amp, before they reach the speakers because an equalizer's output will not be separated going into the amp and then to the speakers. The DQXS contains an active crossover, which would not help with splitting up the signal going to each individual speaker unless each speaker (or each type of speaker) had it's own amp.

So is using a passive crossover the only way to make sure each speaker gets only a certain range of the frequencies? Would the application of active crossovers be splitting the signal and amplifying each component of the signal?

Quote, originally posted by hysteria »

So is using a passive crossover the only way to make sure each speaker gets only a certain range of the frequencies?

There are two crossovers-Active which are in or before the amp and passive which are after the amp. Active requires a separate amp (or channel) for each frequency range.

Quote, originally posted by hysteria »

Would the application of active crossovers be splitting the signal and amplifying each component of the signal?

Splitting the signal-yes, amplifying the signal-No.
Sounds like you need an EQ more than an active system. Most passive crossovers do not offer much adjustment for the mid or tweeter.

Thanks! That's what I meant to say I just didn't articulate it correctly.

I saw the Audio Control EQS on that same site - would you recommend this as a decent EQ? I really have no experience with EQ's, aside from the normal EQ's included or incorporated into a head unit.

I was thinking something a little more precise, like maybe 1/3 octave. That gives me like 30 bands of control!!! Do you think that is excessive? And have you had any experience with Pheonix Gold products? they make a 1/3 octave EQ.

Modified by hysteria at 11:41 PM 8/15/2008

A simple L-pad circuit with the tweeter may pad it down enough for you and will only cost a couple bucks with resistors bought at radioshack or somewhere else.

http://www.bcae1.com/lpad.htm

This will bring down the level of the tweeter by however many db you select. It's also possible to incorporate notch filters if you have problem area's/ranges like from 3-6khz, instead of reducing the output of the tweeter over it's entire operating range.

I like trying the cheaper routes first, instead of wasting money on things beyond what I need...for example a 31band eq. I would say I'm cheap in general, but I did just purchase a $305.00 tweeter for testing/auditioning purposes before buying more.

For example, if you don't know what the impedence is of your tweeter, the crossover components you would use for an 8ohm tweeter will not be the same as one for a 4ohm tweeter and thus will effect different frequencies.

Also, if you don't know what frequencies are "offensive" (it's typically the 3-6k area), you may end up tweeking the wrong frequencies and making things worse.

So what part of the snare drum do you want more of? A spectral analysis of a snare drum shows lots of energy throughout a lot of the human's frequency range. Is it at the upper most part part of the range, say 8+khz?

...more on this later. I need to go mow.

(For example, burn off a song, and set the EQ with 2db of cut from 2-4khz, then from 2-6khz, then 2-8khz. Repeat but with 4db of cut. Also, burn off some 20-20khz sweeps so you can kind'a hear peaks and offensive area's)

One of the good testing CD's I have is Bass Mekanic audio tool box (or whatever it's called) It has multiple test tones and sweeps with a reference to what frequency is what second ect...

Doing it passively is much harder, much more time consuming, but cheaper.

Once you find out what you need to do, you could use the -0db outputs for your tweeter (or -2db's if you don't want that much twinkle) and then set up a shelf filter to drop everything below 8khz by 1, 2, 3, ect... db's. Or whatever frequency you chose.

EQ's are much easier to work with obviously, but can also be used for both the front and rear speakers! If it has two inputs and two outputs, either split the outputs into four, or use the "pass through" outputs of your first amp to send the signal to your second amp. Wait, do you have external amps? The down side is they add noise and, if low quality, will distort the signal before it even reaches the speakers.

You're a good man Looney.