3179 posts
1991 240SX Coupe 1992 240SX SE Coupe 2003 SE-R Spec V
Jacksonville FL
11-18-2005
Which Sound Deadener is the best value? E-Dead? CoolMat? RAM-Mat? Heat Issue?
3:58 PM 8/5/2008
I'm looking up on puttin sound deadeners on my VQ swap car once the engine is done and I start working on the interior. I want to cover the entire cabin with them so super expensive parts are out of the question. I'll have them on the floor, under the roof, inside the doors and quarter panels. I'll even have them under the dash.
But the issue I'm worried about is that will heat have them drip off or peel off? I don't want to spend $400 on stuff that will die after one summer.
If you use Dynamat Xtreme AND follow the directions (clean the surface with acetone, use a roller to bond the Xtreme, etc) it will not fall down. Xtreme is thicker than other brands and works great. I have 100lbs of Dynamat in my mustang and have done the roof of my truck with Xtreme and Dynaliner. More to follow in the truck when I install the system.
689 posts
'08 Altima Coupe 3.5SE Radiant Silver 6MT
Chicago Illinois
7-17-2008
« Re: Which Sound Deadener is the best value? E-Dead? CoolMat? RA ... (Soravia)
10:58 AM 8/6/2008
Wow, dynamat is pretty expensive. I've only ever used Second Skin Audio Damplifier in my cars and I've been happy with it. It's significantly cheaper than dynamat and performs equally well, if not better (IMO). Check this out for more info and comparisons. Little bit old, but I think most of the info is still pretty good.
If you really want bang for your buck, find out what panels/locations are letting in the most noise and which one's aren't too bad. Then only apply sound deadener to those "noisey" panels. Typically dense curvy panels wont need deadening where-as large flat panels (doors) may need multiple layers.
"This year will go down in history. For the first time, a civilized nation has full gun registration. Our streets will be safer, our police more efficient, and the world will follow our lead into the future!" -Adolf Hitler, 1935
I'm thinking inside doors, around the torque tunnel, behind the back seat, passenger fire wall, under the back seat and behind the doors. trunk seems un-necessary since blocking behind the rear seat will take care of that.
sorry to thread jack but i dont want to start a similar thread. Plus I'm also looking for the same info
how much would it cost to get just the trunk/back seat panel professionally done? Guestimates are fine, but real guestimates. I'm not looking to do it myself because its a b!7tch to do, but it its really expensive, i'm game
Depends upon how far you want to go (moderately covered?every square inch covered?layer of foam over Xtreme? etc) but I'll say $300 installed for Xtreme trunk kit and installation. Really, a monkey can install it* but it is hard work and time consuming. *take apart car without breaking every clip or panel. clean surface with acetone. cut material to size. peel backing, lay material in place, use roller tool to bond material to vehicle. repeat until done. reinstall panels into car. pass out.
*take apart car without breaking every clip or panel.
see thats what im afraid of. i know i going to break something. plus i work at night so by the time i wake up the sun is already more than half way gone, so i want this done professionally, but if its going to BMW then i might as well do it myself. i just want his incessant rattle gone really. its somewhere behind the backseats headrest, if i can get rid of it without spending too much, then i'll just fix that and be happy
My sub makes my parcel shelf rattle a lot and im getting tired of it ruining the music when Im driving.
Im not too worried about other panels in my boot, but would just sound deadening my parcel shelf be a viable option? Ive heard that to get to the parcel shelf its a PITB because you need to take the back seat out etc to do and Im not up for doing that.
is there an easier way? Or a way to tighten my speaker covers in the back? Ive had a look but cant find a way to tighten them.
or could I do the clean and roll method mentioned above just on the underside of the parcel shelf? And maybe carpet it to make it look nice?
Thanks guys
Quote, originally posted by themadscientist »
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I used fat mat on the ceiling, walls, inside walls, floors, firewall, doors and everywhere else I could. Used 150 sq. ft. and two layers on everything. I have four eighteen inch woofers in a wall behind the front seat in an explorer. No rattle anywhere, and road noise went away. Get it on Ebay for 50 bucks for 100 square feet. I bought two rolls for 110 shipped. so that was 200 ft.
For stuff like that I tend to use carpet padding because its tons cheaper.
i was thinking carpet padding too...so i could just layer under the shelf and maybe the back of the seat and that could do the trick?
how would you stick that on?
Quote, originally posted by Cpl Dozier »
I used fat mat on the ceiling, walls, inside walls, floors, firewall, doors and everywhere else I could. Used 150 sq. ft. and two layers on everything. I have four eighteen inch woofers in a wall behind the front seat in an explorer. No rattle anywhere, and road noise went away. Get it on Ebay for 50 bucks for 100 square feet. I bought two rolls for 110 shipped. so that was 200 ft.
well i have only one 12 inch so if it did the trick for you hopefully It can benefit me
Hushmat by far is the best, it does what what the others do but more it is east to apply, no cleanig( it will stick to anything) and it cuts with scissors and it also helps with the heat factor not just the dampining and it has been used in the oem side for 15 years thats all i use and it works. just my 2cents http://www.hushmat.com
No hush mat for me. We worked on a car done with fat mat recently and the material was no longer bonded to any of the panels. It wasn't even sticky anymore. Garbage.
I've had good luck with Dynamat extreme. The only place I wouldn't use it is the headliner as it's weight may cause it to sag over time especially with the heat from the sun.
Use silicone around the speaker frame to adhere it to the body. Best to do this from above (so the seats and cover need to be removed) This will prevent any vibrations. As for taking out the seat, it's easy. Let me know if you need info on that. as for the finishing cover, you might have some luck putting some neoprene (closed sell foam) weather stripping at strategic locations to bolster it.
I've had good luck with Dynamat extreme. The only place I wouldn't use it is the headliner as it's weight may cause it to sag over time especially with the heat from the sun.
It won't fall down if installed correctly. When the Xtreme first came out, I noticed that on the package that they showed it installed on the roof. I called them and asked about putting it in upside down (since I knew the Original product could not be used upside down) and they confirmed that it will stay bonded. We have done MANY cars over MANY years with Xtreme on the roof (including my F150) and we have never had an issue.
Again, I like the RAAmmat... Used it in my 240Z and my P71 and it's awesome... inexpensive, great sound deadening, great heat-blocking properties, and it sticks like hell.
I've only had experience with E-dead myself, so I can't compare to other brands out there. I admit, I do own several ED products, but I'm not saying they're the best. I've used the older eDead mat (forget which one exactly), the new 120 Mil eDead, the Liquid eDead V3, and the TekLite V4.
The old eDead is no longer being sold, so discussing it is pointless.
I've used eDead 120 mat in my hatch, in the passenger compartment and under my seats. On top of that I used the TekLite to dampen higher frequencies. It did make the cabin quieter as expected, but what really satisfied me was (1) 20% off with coupon code "eDeadBA" (2) choice of thickness/material and (3) that it was so easy to deal with. The new eDead mat is easily cut with scissors and will not gum them up like the previous versions. I just simply cleaned the area with carb cleaner, let it dry, cut the mat, peel, stick and apply pressure.
The TekLite is ten times easier to apply.
If you're worried about deadening peeling off, you might want to look into the liquid deadening. I've used it on my door panels since they where vertical and I was worried of peeling mat as well. No issues here. Just apply thin coats to the roof and what not and you should be fine. You can even lay mat on top of it.
I like the different options for specific applications (ie TekLite for blocking higher frequencies mat/liquid for lower frequencies), the discount, the fact that you can buy the mat per square foot, and ease of use.
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