I have a '95 J30,1st problem,no odometer,the speedometer works but no odometer.2nd problem,at initial start up the vehicle has a lot of power,but after about 5-10 min.,the vehicle becomes sluggish,almost like if it had a plugged fuel filter,out of time or a problem with the transmission. The fuel filter is 3 months old/new I'm not sure on the timing but it does not ping on hard acceleration and the trans has clean fluid in it. I bought the car from a neighbor who had it parked for 2 years,I had to replace 1 head and had the other rebuilt due to poor maintanace by the previous owner. The timing marks are where they need to be,I'm just not sure on the timing since I did'nt have a scanner to check it with.I should also mention that the check engine light is on, and at times it goes off. Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.
speedo head is usually the cause of no odometer movement. it will have to be replaced. on the no power issue, i have noticed on old j30s egr system function and or knock sensor can have a big effect on power. you need to scan your car to find out what dtc comes up
fixer,thanks for your reply! I first want to say that this sight is very informative and I was able to pull the DTC's and found out that I have 2 codes,32 and 34. I know that 32 has to do with the EGR and that 34 has to do with the Knock senor. As far as the EGR, what should I do to try correct this code?And after looking through this sight, I have a pretty good idea what I need to do with the Knock sensor. One question though,if the cam gear where the timing can be set (far right side facing driver) was off by a tooth,and the adjustment was maxed to achieve timing advance would this condition cause the DTC's?
It would probably cause the KS code but not the EGR code. EGR removal is pretty straightforward. Remove the solenoid above it and then a hose or two attached to it. Remove the two 12mm bolts on the side and it's off.
Open the intake tube from the manifold (coat hanger) and clean the EGR valve with brake parts cleaner. Scrub the inside clean. You also need to clear the intake hole in the plenum. Plan on using a can or two of brake parts cleaner for all of this. If the intake path is cleaned from manifold to plenum the EGR code should go away. Very few owners have had any issues with the two solenoids other than broken nipples.
Ohm your KS (and injectors) before you spend the $$ to replace them. The code could have been stored for a long time.
Mike "Goody" Goodwin
94 Q45 160,000 miles.........................................90 Q45 237,000 miles
The BG44K will do a good job of cleaning up the injectors which probably need it after sitting idle for 2 years. My 90Q had a junkyard fuel rail installed by the previous owner and 2 of the FI were hopelessly clogged and had to be replaced.
As far as cleaning up the rest of the intake path you're going to have to do that with elbow grease. The throttle body and IAC can be removed, cleaned and reinstalled in a couple of hours, even by a noob, and your already doing the EGR to clear up the code. Also, clean up any corrosion and tighten the pins on the major electrical connectors (MAF, CAS, TPS, fuel injectors) and you'll notice an big improvement in engine performance.
There's many other things you can do to tweak and improve engine performance but I think a can of BG and cleaning of components and connectors is a good start.
thanks to all who responded to my questions! Any ideas for strut/cartidge replacement,I thought I saw somewhere on this site that some cartidges out of a Maxima or 300Z would work,I'm not sure though.
