Ran ECU codes. I got 22, 34, 53, and 13. Right O2 sensor maybe lean?

[JDMZ32]

ok, so i used freakonaleash1187's neat-o write-up, zerothread/249406, to run the codes. i got 22, 34, 53, and 13, all when i hoped for a 55 (which would have meant nothing on the list would be a problem). and apparently my right O2 sensor is running lean.

22=not on the list in the write-up. 34=detonation sensor circuit. 53=exhaust gas sensor circuit (right)13=engine coolant temp sensor circuit.

22 tells me nothing. 34, i don't know what it means. 53 i assume goes right along with my right O2 sensor apparently running lean (it didn't flash or stay on). 13 i assume has to do with my bad coolant temp sensor; see thread: zerothread?id=354866.

so, help me out. i'm a noob when it comes to this. i've never done it before and it wasn't til yesterday that i found out that you don't have to be some kind of professional to "run codes" and such.

thank you!

p.s. i'm glad my ECU has the letters "BG" instead of "UA" like in the write-up's picture (cuz i'm an AU student now!!!). also, more seriously, why are the letters different? what do they mean?

[evildky]

without searching for the codes I don't knwo what 22 is off ahnd either but :"34=detonation sensor circuit. 53=exhaust gas sensor circuit (right)13=engine coolant temp sensor circuit."so 43 means you got a bad knock sensor or the wires or connectors going to it are bad, check the connectors and reset the EUC, if that doesn't clean it up you need a new knock sensor, lots of fun 53, yup right side O2 sensor, check connectors, reset ECU and see if ti clears up13, same deal either the coolant tem sensor si bad or the wiring/connectors are, it's I believe the yellow one in your other thread

[ricky6991]

dam someone must have some bad gas mileage...

34 -just do the resistor trick. once na motors knock they are toast anyways.53- alot of pb blaster lol13- yellow top sensor , most likly wiring. clean both connectors it fixxed mine.

[Zwicked]

Your car must run pretty bad with those codes eh?

For the o2 sensor, check to make sure the plug/wiring to it are not broken, but o2 sensor failure is not uncommon.As a last resort you can try driving it above 3000 RPM for 2 full minutes, that sometimes cleans them, but if not you need to buy a new one, in fact I'd replace them both.CTS can be tested, but as the other reply says, check the connector first as they often become corroded. A failed or even out of spec CTS can cause the engine to run badly. If it's corroded, there are about a dozen others that need to be checked

[JDMZ32]

thanks for the help. i'll probably being doing something about all this soon. anyone else have anything to say about those codes? it would be appreciated...

another thing, to fix my overheating problem. what could the problems with overheating be? let's see...1. waterpump, apparently it's ok, but i'm not sure.2. head gasket, but i know this isn't it3. thermostat, according to firestone it's fine4. radiator. this one is extremely likely. Z1 sells a 2 row for the NA for $175. any advice on getting good NA radiators? should i go ahead and buy a TT radiator since i plan on the swap? that'll be a ways away so i was thinking just get an NA. is there a write-up on how to replace it? hopefully it's not too hard.

any other possible things it could be?

also, is there a write-up on installing a pulley kit (all 4 - AMS)? if i do this the waterpump will be replaced anyway, along with the belt.

P.S. what do you guys think about converting to electric fans? i hear it's a great thing to do. http://www.z1motorsports.com/p...d=859

P.P.S. (is that the proper term?) spark plugs. could my Z also run like crap because it has cheap autostore plugs instead of NGKs? should i go ahead and replace them too? what's the specific model i need for my '91 NA? i assume i don't, but do i need gapping? also, how do i install them? i think it's in my manual, but they probably aren't great directions. o, how i feel like a newb... can you tell i've never done this? lol
Modified by JDMZ32 at 11:09 PM 9/15/2008

[bruinbear714]

Knock sensor code usually shows up, but never triggers a check engine light unless there's another code that gets fired.

EGR code shouldn't cause your engine to run bad, just affects smog/emissions.

Engine coolant temp code is BAD. That means your ECU will think your engine is either a) extremely hot all the time, thus retarding timing, or b) extremely code all the time, adding extra fuel for cold start warmup. Either way, get that fixed ASAP otherwise you'll be getting like 10MPG.

If your car is overheating, check the basics first. White exhaust is usually a sign of bad headgasket. Milky chocolate coolant is another sign. Next replace the basics - thermostat, water pump, coolant flush, belts.

And lastly if you're going to convert to electric fans, use the flex a lite dual 12 along with the DIF variable speed pwm fan controller for an awesome setup.

[JDMZ32]

thank you, sir. all advice is noted.

MORE ANSWERS appreciated! so bump! i want to know as much as possible.

[JDMZ32]

could my Z also run like crap because it has cheap autostore plugs instead of NGKs?

FTR, i found out they're bosch plugs. still going to swap out for NGKs. i am finally able to start saving up for all the parts i need to fix her and bring her to Auburn from Montgomery

34 -just do the resistor trick. once na motors knock they are toast anyways.53- alot of pb blaster lol

what do you mean by these two statements? anyone feel free to answer.

i'll be coming back to this thread again a little later too, probably for advice on how to do everything.

also, my wheels are clean now:(thanks dad!)

[LIBRILZ]

I saw in the first pics your headrests were raised up on the seat, dork lol.

Anyways for those wheels to look even better might want to paint them that color again. They look clean, just that they would look better newly painted again.