| Quote, originally posted by MaxBolus » |
Have been getting a rapid vibration when hitting the brakes, so assuming I need resurfacing (or new rotors). Fronts are drilled/slotted from Jason B, been on almost two years, and I've been very happy with them..but guess even they can only take so much abuse  I've casually checked a couple of places, and neither will take them for resurfacing (one guy said he'd do drilled, but not slotted  ) Two questions: the vibration I'm getting is very rapid, the frequency is way higher than the rotation of the tires at a given speed..does this signify something other than simple rotor warpage? (or whatever..not sure what I'm even asking here, lol) Also- if I DO find someone to resurface these rotors, any special things I should look for or ask about? (e.g. do they bevel/countersink the drill holes? any special treatment on the slot edges, etc.?) |
Rotors typically last about 2 to 2.5 to 3 pad changes ... so you should be able to get about 50k to 75k miles out of a set of good rotors. If you are past that point, then you need new rotors ... don't waste money on a resurface!
However, if you are less than that, then do a rotor width measurement. If the width is below the minimum spec, or the resurface would drop the width below minimum spec, you need to replace the rotors regardless anyway!
Resurfacing drilled and slotted rotors is not easy, unfortunately, so I am not surprised that some of those guys don't want to do it.
With slotted rotors, you don't need to worry about the edges of the slots. But, I don't know what problems it might cause for the resurfacing equipment - hope somebody else can comment on that.
With drilled rotors, the chamfer on the edges is a bit important - if you remove too much material, then the chamfer can get too small, and create a place where the rotor can either crack or have a sharp edge/surface that can damage the pad. If the rotor is too worn for this to be done properly, it is probably time for new rotors again.
BTW, I doubt the resurfacer people can properly redo the chamfer, since this requires precision equipment (for example, a CNC machine that did the drilling in the first place). Any imbalance in "counter-sinking" and you would not like the result! I would be particularly leery of redoing the chamfer for another reason - this may introduce stress into the metal, that may cause it to crack at that point when hot.
By the way, before you do anything at all to your brakes and pads (particularly if the pad material depth and rotor width is okay), start by doing a thorough balance (force balance if necessary) of your wheels. Quite often, tire and wheel imbalance is misconstrued as "warped" rotors due to the vibration. Furthermore, if your tires are old, then they may also have internal wear and tear (belts do break, for example, without external visible damage) that make the wheel/tire imbalanced and shake the car!
Z
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