If you want the most relilable kit possible, be prepared to spend some coin. If you want this to be a DD, i'd suggest at least refreshing the motor depending on compression and such. For a DD, I'd do at least the water pump, oil gears, and timing components, just in case. New wires are a good idea too. For going turbo, you'll want colder plugs (BKR7E)
The following is a decent start for that HP range, IMO.
JGS Starter Kit - the main reason for this is the one year, no questions warranty on the turbo. Mess up the oil lines and nothing to worry about 
FMIC kit from eBay. Use couplers and cut up the piping as needed. SR20 cold pipes line up pretty well. If you get an SR20 hot pipe with a BOV flange welded in already, you just need to cut some off and get a 90 or 65 degree coupler depending on your situation, thats what I did to save myself from finding someone to weld. You will need a BOV as well. I run an HKS SSQV, just so I don't have springs to worry about adjusting
An SR20 downpipe to mate the JGS kit to the rest of your exhaust. I personally reccomend the Megan Racing one, for two reasons, I've used it so I know it fits, and it has a flexpipe section so if you overheat the exhaust at all it will flex and hopefully not warp the manifold.
370cc SR20 injectors or slightly bigger ones, either from the classifeds or from Deatchwerks. You get a discount from them if you buy multiple things I think, such as the Walboro 255lph fuel pump you'd want.
I'd also reccomned using an FPR with that, again just to be careful with your DD. There is a kit from Enjuku Racing that comes with an FPR, a pressure gauge, and all the hardware and lines you need.
Emance tune, since you can just send him your ECU and have it tuned, and be done. Much cheaper then the Enthalpy. I run an Enthalpy right now, and I am happy with it FYI. Even with a tune like this I'd get a wideband O2 sensor, just to make sure everything is okay. It's saved my motor a couple times.
And you'll need some odds and ends to finish it off, like some vacuum lines, which you can re-use the canister lines since you'll be removing that 
. Some couplers and clamps here and there, etc.
It's not the cheapest setup, but it will not really give you any problems either...The saying for KA-T goes like this "You can have fast, cheap, and relilable - the problem is you can only have two."
