First off i tried to do draw through and it always started fine but i had very erradict idle and after driving it and coming to a stop i try to coast to a stop by put it in nuetral and the rpm would slowly go down and bounce around 300 to 400 rpm then just give up and die. THE SAFC DEC AIR SETTINGS DID NOT HELP. i tried it so many times but no luck.

So i decided to go blow through since i heard it will help with all of that. Finally i finished going blow through and when i started it everything felt like normal NA and i drove it around and coasting to a stop and it felt normal no stalling or bouncing idle so i thought my problem was solved, but after driving around some more and when i try to coast to a stop again it would stall about 50% of the time instead of 100% from draw through.

What could my problem be? Should i turn off the DEC AIR settings on the safc now that i'm blow through or try to adjust it still? Please help i want to start driving my baby agian instead of my DD honda fit sport.

P.s. I'm sorry if my grammar, spelling, and description is all out of wack.

KA-T E-Mance ECU

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09/01/89~09/28/06

the maf right under the battery tray. i'm going to take a picture of the engine bay tonight and post it tomorrow.

Quote, originally posted by neverlift »

is the bov before the maf in relation to the t/b?

yes the bov is before the maf because its setup as a blow through setup.

Brand new Borg Warner S258 ---> http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=354932

NIB Ferrea 1mm oversize ka24de valves 4 a KA ---> http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=363557

New sparco sliders/rail for a s14 --> EMAIL ME

try turning your idle control valve screw up a little. raise it to 950 or 1000 and i bet your stalling will go away.

I tune KA(T)/SR/RB/VG/CA18's! Fast shipping and best price! many references.
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Huh...how do explain some members making 400whp and over 20psi then?

Megan Racing Parts supplier.Among many more companies Act, hks, b&m, sparco,msd,etc. hotrod6000000@yahoo.com
KA-T why settle for anything less?

just to state a fact i'm using 93 octane, walbro pump, and only stock boost so about 7 or 8.

its raining here today so i won't have a chance to tes it until tomorrow.

also has anyone have any advice how to check if my vacuum lines are cool? i'm pretty sure when i took off all the emissions i caped and routed the vacuum lines just to the fpr line which has my bov and boost gauge T'ed off to it.

Try a period or two in there.

The real issue for running higher levels of boost on a KA are detonation and piston/rod strength. If one could tune a stock KA such that detonation at 30 psi is not an issue, then the only thing he really needs to worry about is whether or not the pistons and rods can handle the power. 30 psi would appear way over the threshold, but if he somehow got lucky and it can hold, there is no reason it will simply fail from repeated use at 30 psi. Sure, wear and tear will be greater than it would at 7 psi, but that doesn't change from using stronger pistons and rods. Bearings, piston rings and the cylinder walls will still be subject to the same forces as it would if the pistons and rods were OE.

Where's the pic of the engine bay btw? We may be able to spot somethign wrong with the plumbing.

Once the car is warmed up it should be idling at 800ish. So try setting it to 1000rpm and see how it works.

WD

I'm having a hard time following the sequence of your events. Could you please give me a run down from beginning to now?

Also, change your oil, and plugs. It sounds like you ran it really rich atleast once. The fuel probably reached the oil and the spark plugs are probably fouled. Remove the BOV or plug it...whatever you can do to take it out of the system. And up the idle...but do the idle after the things I just suggested.

WD

1. i had everything hooked up suck through maf, stock plugs, and no setting on safc. Started it for a couple of minutes to see if it would run and it did just fine. But later that night i started the car again so i could bleed out the air in the cooling system. It ran fine during the whole process.

2. the next day i replaced the stock plugs with 1 step colder ngk plugs and noticed the plugs where pitch black because its was running rich, and structure240 put some settings in the safc. (so i could at least take my car to a shop to get a wideband bung installed). This is when we started to have a hard time starting the car and holding idle after we changed the plugs. But structure tightened my throttle cable and adjusted the tps then it would start fine and hold idle so we took my car to get premuim gas and drove fine not in boost no stalling at all, but when we were at a light the car started to smoke alot so we took the car back home and the night was over.

3. next day i was trying to figure out why it smoked all of the sudden and i noticed that my oil return line had slack so i shortened it some more to make more direct. I drove it around the block to see if it would smoke agian and it didn't. This is when it would want to stall and dip down to 300 rpm but then come back up when i put it in neutral. the dec air setting was on at that time. then all of the sudden on the way home the car started stumbling between gears, rpm was bouncy too, and stalling at every stop. This is when this problem started to accur.

4. Following day looked around the engine bay to see if any loose vac or couplers and didn't fine any. Talked to jason at emance to see if a tuned daughterboard would help instead of a safc and he said it should if not go blow through and everything would be good so i tried it and got my friends dad whos a electrical engineer to solder the daughterboard to my ecu. i fired it up and everything idled fine like NA and the rpm was bouncy at all. Took it for a drive down the street and at the first stop it was fine but when i come to another stop it started to stall again. Car is still suck through maf btw. took the car home frustrated about the stalling and i asked jason if i need a new chip if i go blow through and he said no just disconnect the battery for 10 mins and the ecu will self learn.

5. following day i switched to blow through. disconnected the battery during the whole process. i checked gap of the plugs and it was .35 and it was black. started it up and everything ran like NA. took it for a drive and at the first stop its just like NA so i was getting excited. i disabled the safc at this point so the ecu can do all the work. Then on the way next stop i give it around 40% throttle the car boost at 7psi then i put it in nuetral to coast to a stop and it didn't want to stall at first but then about 10 seconds later it finally stalled. so i limped home agian.

6. next day i looked under the hood and noticed that the crappy couplers i bought from home depot assed out on me so i went to extreme psi and bought legit silicone couplers all around and welded my bov flange too. took it for a drive a little cool still and it was driving fine but when the car is fully warmed up it would stall at every stop now. after i try to start it back up when it stalls the car has a hard time cranking and would fire up then die unless i give it a little gas. after it catches idle the rpm would go crazy up and down then eventually die again.

And thats my whole story and problem. now someone shoot me please

PS. today i'll follow your advice WD and change the oil and plugs to probably brk7s.

Modified by beatd at 10:44 AM 7/17/2008

I think this can also be fixed by hooking you IACV air source to the intake pipe itself instead of on the IC pipe. Only heard that this works, and it makes sense that it would.

Check injectors for leaks.

Check sensors with FSM.

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Research!

I checked the injectors yesterday for leaks and there wasn't any. Wideband will be used tomorrow. Today i will be checking the emance chip, and cleaing the iacv.

Quote, originally posted by WDRacing »

I would definitly raise it a touch. If you see Anthony tell him WD says "I Love You"...

lol will do when i see him on thursday