HELP KA-T GODS. STALLING PROBLEM! BLOW THROUGH DID NOT HELP. SORTA.

[beatd]

First off my setup is Garrett T25, FMIC, Greddy atmospheric BOV, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, walbro 255, 370cc, emance tune, and safc1 for fine tuning.

First off i tried to do draw through and it always started fine but i had very erradict idle and after driving it and coming to a stop i try to coast to a stop by put it in nuetral and the rpm would slowly go down and bounce around 300 to 400 rpm then just give up and die. THE SAFC DEC AIR SETTINGS DID NOT HELP. i tried it so many times but no luck.

So i decided to go blow through since i heard it will help with all of that. Finally i finished going blow through and when i started it everything felt like normal NA and i drove it around and coasting to a stop and it felt normal no stalling or bouncing idle so i thought my problem was solved, but after driving around some more and when i try to coast to a stop again it would stall about 50% of the time instead of 100% from draw through.

What could my problem be? Should i turn off the DEC AIR settings on the safc now that i'm blow through or try to adjust it still? Please help i want to start driving my baby agian instead of my DD honda fit sport.

P.s. I'm sorry if my grammar, spelling, and description is all out of wack.

[C-Kwik]

Leak in your intercooler piping? Check your couplings. Use T-bolt clamps if you're not already doing so. Standard clamps can be hard to tighten enough to hold the pressure and can easily vent air even if it doesn't come off. So when you check it again, it can easily look like it is sealed up.

[240sxvaj]

Turn that air decel off and see what happens. maybe the afc is messing with it. how far is the maf from the throttlebody? i'm not too sure but i heard something about being too close to throttle body is bad. got picture of the engine bay?

[neverlift]

is the bov before the maf in relation to the t/b?

[beatd]

Turn that air decel off and see what happens. maybe the afc is messing with it. how far is the maf from the throttlebody? i'm not too sure but i heard something about being too close to throttle body is bad. got picture of the engine bay?

the maf right under the battery tray. i'm going to take a picture of the engine bay tonight and post it tomorrow.

is the bov before the maf in relation to the t/b?

yes the bov is before the maf because its setup as a blow through setup.

[480sx]

Sounds like a vac leak.

[racersonly2004]

This post was edited because it was completely wrong and the user was banned.

[thefro526]

My friend was having massive Idle problems with his new KA-T and he also had an Safc. We've gotten some of the problems resolved and all of them seemed to stem from bad MAF wiring/Safc wiring. I'd advise you to go and check all of the connections on your Safc and MAF and see if that solves anything.

[drape123]

First off my setup is Garrett T25, FMIC, Greddy atmospheric BOV, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, walbro 255, 370cc, emance tune, and safc1 for fine tuning.

First off i tried to do draw through and it always started fine but i had very erradict idle and after driving it and coming to a stop i try to coast to a stop by put it in nuetral and the rpm would slowly go down and bounce around 300 to 400 rpm then just give up and die. THE SAFC DEC AIR SETTINGS DID NOT HELP. i tried it so many times but no luck.

So i decided to go blow through since i heard it will help with all of that. Finally i finished going blow through and when i started it everything felt like normal NA and i drove it around and coasting to a stop and it felt normal no stalling or bouncing idle so i thought my problem was solved, but after driving around some more and when i try to coast to a stop again it would stall about 50% of the time instead of 100% from draw through.

What could my problem be? Should i turn off the DEC AIR settings on the safc now that i'm blow through or try to adjust it still? Please help i want to start driving my baby agian instead of my DD honda fit sport.

P.s. I'm sorry if my grammar, spelling, and description is all out of wack.

try turning your idle control valve screw up a little. raise it to 950 or 1000 and i bet your stalling will go away.

[racersonly2004]

I am stupid and have no idea about anything...

[WDRacing]

ahhh so u tried what ive been telling u and relocating the maf closer to the tb worked, intreaging. ok before u continue reading. how much boost where u runing and what kinda fuel. u might be hurting the motor a safe pressure is about 7psi on stock internals with 91 octane

Modified by racersonly2004 at 11:54 PM 7/11/2008

Huh...how do explain some members making 400whp and over 20psi then?

[racersonly1993]

Yet another post that required editing...this dude is a tool.

[Florida240sx]

WTF did you come from. Please read some info before typing again.If someone is turboing their car, they are most likel goign to be driving it like "Nascar". Why spend money to go fast and not go fast.Did you ever check your CTS? Run your ecu for codes yet?Checked your grounds?Make a boost leak tester and check for leaks.If you keep your foot slightly on the throttle does it prevent stalling? I would have to keep taping the throttle to prevent stalling after coming off a 19psi boost run. Had enthalpy ECU and safc for fine adjustments. Turned my idle up and it helped a lot. had my idle at 1050ish.

[beatd]

I'm going to check for boost leaks first because i found out if i'm boosting my bov would come off because i was using a coupler, but i just got it welded so i'm going to try to run it agian and see what happens. i'm also going to turn up the idle a little and see what happens.

just to state a fact i'm using 93 octane, walbro pump, and only stock boost so about 7 or 8.

its raining here today so i won't have a chance to tes it until tomorrow.

also has anyone have any advice how to check if my vacuum lines are cool? i'm pretty sure when i took off all the emissions i caped and routed the vacuum lines just to the fpr line which has my bov and boost gauge T'ed off to it.

[C-Kwik]

i said its safe for 7psi on STOCK internals i didnt say it wasnt possible to run anything higher on stock internals theres a guy on utube that has 1 at 30psi on stock internals but how long can u run it like that with out damaging somthing it could however be posible wwith the right fuel prob alchohol

Try a period or two in there.

The real issue for running higher levels of boost on a KA are detonation and piston/rod strength. If one could tune a stock KA such that detonation at 30 psi is not an issue, then the only thing he really needs to worry about is whether or not the pistons and rods can handle the power. 30 psi would appear way over the threshold, but if he somehow got lucky and it can hold, there is no reason it will simply fail from repeated use at 30 psi. Sure, wear and tear will be greater than it would at 7 psi, but that doesn't change from using stronger pistons and rods. Bearings, piston rings and the cylinder walls will still be subject to the same forces as it would if the pistons and rods were OE.

[beatd]

i just got done replacing all the crapy couplers with real legit silicone ones, checked for boost, and vacuum leaks, and still after the car is fully warmed up it just drives like *** and stalls everytime i take it out of gear and just put it in neutral and when i try to start it up after it stalls it won't stay on. ahhhhhh what i don't understand is if the car is cold it holds idle fine and won't stall but the rpm would dip down to 400 rpm but goes right back to normal. SOMEONE PLEASE HELP!! come by my house i'll have food drinks pay for your gas and toll too.. just come here and fix my baby!! if your local .... ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

[C-Kwik]

You might try eliminating one thing at a time. I'd start with the SAFC. Remove it entirely and see how it runs. Since you're running blow-through at the moment, you don't need the dec-air settings anyways.

Where's the pic of the engine bay btw? We may be able to spot somethign wrong with the plumbing.

[WDRacing]

Turn the idle up once the car has reached it's normal operating temp. Try to block the BOV off. Take a picture so we can look at things.

Once the car is warmed up it should be idling at 800ish. So try setting it to 1000rpm and see how it works.

WD

[beatd]

i took out the safc already today and it was still stalling. i promise to take a picture of the engine bay tomorrow during my lunch break. Could it be my bov? i don't know how to adjust the greddy type rs. i just left it the way it came. also i ran my car before even setting the safc or the emance tune for like 20 mins i think it was running rich so i was thinking if i replace the o2 sensor with ones i have if that would help? i'm just throwing possibilities out there i'm really frustrated right now.

[WDRacing]

i took out the safc already today and it was still stalling. i promise to take a picture of the engine bay tomorrow during my lunch break. Could it be my bov? i don't know how to adjust the greddy type rs. i just left it the way it came. also i ran my car before even setting the safc or the emance tune for like 20 mins i think it was running rich so i was thinking if i replace the o2 sensor with ones i have if that would help? i'm just throwing possibilities out there i'm really frustrated right now.

I'm having a hard time following the sequence of your events. Could you please give me a run down from beginning to now?

Also, change your oil, and plugs. It sounds like you ran it really rich atleast once. The fuel probably reached the oil and the spark plugs are probably fouled. Remove the BOV or plug it...whatever you can do to take it out of the system. And up the idle...but do the idle after the things I just suggested.

WD

[beatd]

ok i will try to be as descriptive as possible on what happened from start till now.

1. i had everything hooked up suck through maf, stock plugs, and no setting on safc. Started it for a couple of minutes to see if it would run and it did just fine. But later that night i started the car again so i could bleed out the air in the cooling system. It ran fine during the whole process.

2. the next day i replaced the stock plugs with 1 step colder ngk plugs and noticed the plugs where pitch black because its was running rich, and structure240 put some settings in the safc. (so i could at least take my car to a shop to get a wideband bung installed). This is when we started to have a hard time starting the car and holding idle after we changed the plugs. But structure tightened my throttle cable and adjusted the tps then it would start fine and hold idle so we took my car to get premuim gas and drove fine not in boost no stalling at all, but when we were at a light the car started to smoke alot so we took the car back home and the night was over.

3. next day i was trying to figure out why it smoked all of the sudden and i noticed that my oil return line had slack so i shortened it some more to make more direct. I drove it around the block to see if it would smoke agian and it didn't. This is when it would want to stall and dip down to 300 rpm but then come back up when i put it in neutral. the dec air setting was on at that time. then all of the sudden on the way home the car started stumbling between gears, rpm was bouncy too, and stalling at every stop. This is when this problem started to accur.

4. Following day looked around the engine bay to see if any loose vac or couplers and didn't fine any. Talked to jason at emance to see if a tuned daughterboard would help instead of a safc and he said it should if not go blow through and everything would be good so i tried it and got my friends dad whos a electrical engineer to solder the daughterboard to my ecu. i fired it up and everything idled fine like NA and the rpm was bouncy at all. Took it for a drive down the street and at the first stop it was fine but when i come to another stop it started to stall again. Car is still suck through maf btw. took the car home frustrated about the stalling and i asked jason if i need a new chip if i go blow through and he said no just disconnect the battery for 10 mins and the ecu will self learn.

5. following day i switched to blow through. disconnected the battery during the whole process. i checked gap of the plugs and it was .35 and it was black. started it up and everything ran like NA. took it for a drive and at the first stop its just like NA so i was getting excited. i disabled the safc at this point so the ecu can do all the work. Then on the way next stop i give it around 40% throttle the car boost at 7psi then i put it in nuetral to coast to a stop and it didn't want to stall at first but then about 10 seconds later it finally stalled. so i limped home agian.

6. next day i looked under the hood and noticed that the crappy couplers i bought from home depot assed out on me so i went to extreme psi and bought legit silicone couplers all around and welded my bov flange too. took it for a drive a little cool still and it was driving fine but when the car is fully warmed up it would stall at every stop now. after i try to start it back up when it stalls the car has a hard time cranking and would fire up then die unless i give it a little gas. after it catches idle the rpm would go crazy up and down then eventually die again.

And thats my whole story and problem. now someone shoot me please

PS. today i'll follow your advice WD and change the oil and plugs to probably brk7s.
Modified by beatd at 10:44 AM 7/17/2008

[C-Kwik]

What kind of hose clamps are you using?

[480sx]

Have you tried adjusting your idler air control valve? I had a similar issue when i first went turbo. The problem is, the stock idle air control valve was not designed to work in a vacuum situation. When your car is at idle, the engine has to suck air through the turbo creating a vacuum on the IC pipes. Not much of one, but enough to mess up idle. All i did to fix the problem was turn my idler air control valve setting screw nearly all the way out. This lets my car catch idle 9 out of 10 times.

I think this can also be fixed by hooking you IACV air source to the intake pipe itself instead of on the IC pipe. Only heard that this works, and it makes sense that it would.

[beatd]

What kind of hose clamps are you using?

i'm using t-clamps for everything.

Have you tried adjusting your idler air control valve? I had a similar issue when i first went turbo. The problem is, the stock idle air control valve was not designed to work in a vacuum situation. When your car is at idle, the engine has to suck air through the turbo creating a vacuum on the IC pipes. Not much of one, but enough to mess up idle. All i did to fix the problem was turn my idler air control valve setting screw nearly all the way out. This lets my car catch idle 9 out of 10 times.

I think this can also be fixed by hooking you IACV air source to the intake pipe itself instead of on the IC pipe. Only heard that this works, and it makes sense that it would.

i did not adjust it yet because i found out i'm running extremely rich with just the emance tune. when i pulled the plugs it was fouled so i got a new set. when i ran the new set for 5 mins i pulled the plugs again and it was pitch black like the last so i had to use the safc to adjust the low throttle point at 1000 rpm to -25 and it started to run better and hold idle and the plugs started to look bronze so it was normal. i didn't test drive it yet but tomorrow i will find out. if it still stalls then i'll just adjust the iacv and test that route

[480sx]

Messin with the SAFC without a WBO2 is a surefire way to blow your motor.

[beatd]

Messin with the SAFC without a WBO2 is a surefire way to blow your motor.

I drove it yesterday with new plugs and new o2 sensor, and it idled perfect but for some reason when i drove it around the block it still runs like crap and stalls. When i got back i took the plugs out agian and it was pitch black so it was running rich again. I think the emance tune is not working right. Today after work i'm going to take out the ecu and see if the daugtherboard is loose or something, and clean the idle screw in the back of the manifold. this is gay until fix this problem

[NateDogg]

Get a wideband.

Check injectors for leaks.

Check sensors with FSM.

You not only have to pay to play, you also have to learn how to play.

Research!

[beatd]

Get a wideband.

Check injectors for leaks.

Check sensors with FSM.

You not only have to pay to play, you also have to learn how to play.

Research!

I checked the injectors yesterday for leaks and there wasn't any. Wideband will be used tomorrow. Today i will be checking the emance chip, and cleaing the iacv.

[beatd]

ok car is running good now. structure played with my safc and he found out that my maf sensor setting was off. it was 5 in and 5 out but on the next screen he changed it to 2 in and ADD out instead of AVE out. I didn't know there was another screen after the first one, but after he changed it the car can hold idle, and its steady at 500 rpm while i'm braking but as soon as i let go of the brakes it goes back to 750 rpm. YAY! no more stalling should i raise the idle up a bit so while breaking the idle isn't so low? cause its kinda scary.

[WDRacing]

I would definitly raise it a touch. If you see Anthony tell him WD says "I Love You"...