Quote, originally posted by idahotuner »

WAHT DOES THIS FAP MEAN

Quote, originally posted by Razi »

Sometimes I push it closed with my butt.

the only regret I have is not doing a master bushing kit and rear subframe bushings.....but there coming

Quote, originally posted by FRnIsmO »

im going to check that out. so do you have any suspension upgrades on yours? how much did YOU spend? ANY REGRETS?

I have a lot of suspension upgrades. I dont know how much I've spent all together because I didn't buy them all at the same time... it doesnt matter how much I've spent though, cuz I dont buy my stuff at retail price

you want a good suggestion on what suspension to get? http://splparts.com. KTS coilovers are great inverted monotube'ed coilovers for the price. Their (spl) suspension arms are by far one of the best in the market.

they came with my shell sans motor

and I am greatful to death for them.

nismo power brace

fron mulit link arms: front tension rods and lower arm ( SPL or tein )

rear multi link arms. camber adjustment and all that ( the whole SPL set )

Fender Braces
Roll cage ( 4 point nothing extreme )
Nismo Motor Mount set. ( or avid racing )

and lastly great TIRES...

thats about it... even with my stock turbo
the car would hand or drift like its possessed.

Browse SPLparts.com's suspension section. it has every suspension piece imaginable.

Modified by Kalypso123 at 6:23 PM 7/12/2008

In order not to waste money... start with your core mods... ie coilovers, wheels and tires... and/or cage (which owning a hatchback you should install by default... 4pts minimum)

Each of these mods will change the car in a very significant way so you will want to install them and drive the car before you decide you need all of the supporting arms.

For the Nismo power brace that was mentioned... look at your stock setup before you buy that... box yours in and weld in a bar with gussets and you have the same thing. The other thing about that part is... do you really need a stiffer front end (especially with a S13) without a stiffer rear?

My setup is extreme, but minimal at the same time. You don't need a cage as crazy as mine (actually taking the door bars out soon since I'm not really going to compete with my car anymore due to running a Z33 in T2)... but even before the cage when I only had the Kei Office XT's, stock Hicas sways I didn't feel I needed more arms/braces. The cage made a huge difference... along with my wheel/tire combo I'm very satisfied. I might get rear LCA's down the road but that's all I can think of off of the top of my head...

Hope this helps... just hate to see people waste their money on parts they might not need

The Project

The Wheels

The Cage

go to mestizo.net

he builds a flawlessly tuned s13 sr20det with all the footwork attached

What KYB do you have? GR-2?

It has KTS coilovers on it. People actually ask me quite often if I plan to modify it, or why I don't lower it...

I dunno the difference between GR2z, and the GR2's... but adjustable shocks are a good thing... and the GR2 at least is pretty close to just being an OEM replacement.

Whats the spring rate on those tein springs?

Quote, originally posted by FRnIsmO »

sorry about that, the i meant with an ('s) not a z, i guess thats a jersey thing to use z as a plural ending but the springs are 1.5 on the front and 1.2 rear. really entry level. [IMG][/IMG] those are 17's (17z lol). i heard nonadjustablers are less secure...what do you think about that. does anyone else think so? thanks

Don't be a ricer, springs are not rated by their drop alone... I you are trying to make the car handle don't buy of "drop"

What do you mean non adjustable is less secure? whats less secure? You mean the spring? thats why you buy springs and shocks to match... and don't buy stupid lowering springs with stockish rates.

what is firmly secured?

Am I right in guessing you don't really know what you mean and its a random thing you read somewhere and didn't really understand but remembered for later?

The only real issue is that you get more ways to set them wrong... but if you don't notice what the changes you are making is doing chances are that its not that important anyways... once you get a feel for it its really nice to have as you can effect the balance of the car as you do other modifications... or even just to fit your preferences and use of the car.

I'd encourage you to read... a ton... but be weary of reading too much of things like this thread. People will be so quick to say "OMG get 10/8 coilovers! stiffer!" when they are never gonna be on a track and its not too hard to go stiff enough to lose grip on bumpier surfaces like streets and mountain roads.

Hell even KTS at 8/6 loose some grip on roads that aren't ideal. Also look at the stiffness of the the springs, not just the drop... stiffness will be given in the force (quite you physics majors, close enough) required to compress the spring a certain amount. Typically stuff for imports will be in killograms per mm of compression, so the springs on the front of KTS coil overs take 8 kilograms of load to compress 1 millimeter. Domestics are often given in pounds per inch of compression. Stock on a 240 is about 2kg/mm front and read iirc, should be in the stickies at the top of the forum.
Be sure not to make the mistake of comparing spring rates from one type of car to another... Honda spring rates will seem crazy, because the spring is further inboard so the suspension arm acts as more of a leveler, so a stiffer spring is needed to give the same rate at the wheels.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/11638
This is a good thread, with a fairly comprehensive list of 240 spring rates. If you have S-tech those actually don't look too bad...

for a street setup RSR race springs, a GOOD pair of adjustable shocks, ground control coil overs, camber plates(if needed/wanted), adjustable swaybars (I have whiteline, and progress, progress is damn good... but i dunno if they are still made? I couldn't find them thats why I went with whiteline)...

AND MOST OF ALL GOOD TIRES (all suspension works just seeks to optimize the tire...it is the ONLY thing holding you to the ground, remember that.)

I think the above would kick some ***. I haven't owned or even ridden on the RSR springs, but the rates look good... and some respectable guys here have spoken highly of them.

Of all the areas I would try hardest not to skimp on shocks or tires. Most the other pieces are just metal. Springs you gotta trust that the maker is giving you good rates... but thats easy enough to just steal from another company, and the manufacturing isn't overly difficult. But shocks... quite a bit to skimp out on or mess up in manufacturing, not so much so that they will break... but dampening the spring can be a demanding job, and the smoother the load you can put on the tire the better.

Tires also are incredibly complex, your best answer is to say **** tread wear and pick up something like a Falken 615, or the Hankook RS-2 (did I mess that up?)

I just finished up reading about 75 pages of pretty damn detailed info on tires...just to give you an idea of how complex they are...and that doesn't even include going into the chemistry of tread compounds.

I think I have rambled sufficiently for now....

http://www.wtrscca.org/tech.htm

all the suspension parts you'll ever need have been posted somewhere in this thread.

welcome to NICO

TIRES.

Set up: I have eibach prokit, tokico blues, polyurethane T/C bushings, aluminum subframe inserts, front strut tower bar, suspension technique sways, yokohama s.drives, VLSD differential.

Regrets: I would have invested in linear rate springs with higher spring rates and better struts. Thats what I will do when money allows. Dream street set up is RSR race springs, Koni yellows, and adjustable upper mounts.