Do I need a torque wrench for this
Do I need a torque wrench for this
In about a week or so Im planning to install a new alternator,new belts, and spark plugs. Is a torque wrench necessary for these things? I have a 240sx if it matters.
Re: Do I need a torque wrench for this (Mangudai)
if you have done something like that before - than probably not. but if it is your first time when you do something under the bonnet (i guess that you did not), it would help you not to brake anything.
Re: (Mangudai)
there is a general nut torque specifications on one of the first pages.it is for euro 200sx s13, but I think it would be the same for usdm 240sx.
Thanks for posting the graph.
Ok, so if a bolt reads 4 on the top and is a 14mm it should be torqued down to 65 ft-lbs- if its a flange bolt. Whats the difference between a head bolt and a flange bolt..a head bolt is a..bolt on the head of the engine and every other one would be a flange bolt correct?
Ok, so if a bolt reads 4 on the top and is a 14mm it should be torqued down to 65 ft-lbs- if its a flange bolt. Whats the difference between a head bolt and a flange bolt..a head bolt is a..bolt on the head of the engine and every other one would be a flange bolt correct?
Re: (Mangudai)
You don't need a torque wrench at all. Pay attention to how tight the belts are currently. push them and lift the sides trying to turn it upside down. When you put on the new belts, you want them to be the same tightness. As far as bolts go just tighten them good, but don't try to be hercules with it.
Spark plugs are very simple but can become a nightmare. The engine head is made out of aluminum and aluminum is a very soft metal. If you overtighten the spark plugs then you can strip the threads and you don't want to get into that situation at all. This is what i do. 1) Make sure the engine is COLD.2) Put the spark plug into the spark plug socket with a long enough extention and screw it into the engine BY HAND. Doing it by hand allows you to feel any resistance and stop right away and correct it instead of turning it with a wrench and stripping it. After you're tightenting it to where it can go no more by hand attach the wrench and tighten it a 1/4 turn more.
Same thing with removing the old spark plug, loosen it enough so you can remove the wrench and unscrew it the rest of the way out by hand.
Make sure you use a suitable lubricant on the tip of the spark plug so when u put the ignition wire on it won't be hard to remove later on down the line. Without the lube one year later in so much heat when you try to remove the ignition wire from the spark plug you can pull hard and break half the boot in the hole and it's a pain getting it out.
Spark plugs are very simple but can become a nightmare. The engine head is made out of aluminum and aluminum is a very soft metal. If you overtighten the spark plugs then you can strip the threads and you don't want to get into that situation at all. This is what i do. 1) Make sure the engine is COLD.2) Put the spark plug into the spark plug socket with a long enough extention and screw it into the engine BY HAND. Doing it by hand allows you to feel any resistance and stop right away and correct it instead of turning it with a wrench and stripping it. After you're tightenting it to where it can go no more by hand attach the wrench and tighten it a 1/4 turn more.
Same thing with removing the old spark plug, loosen it enough so you can remove the wrench and unscrew it the rest of the way out by hand.
Make sure you use a suitable lubricant on the tip of the spark plug so when u put the ignition wire on it won't be hard to remove later on down the line. Without the lube one year later in so much heat when you try to remove the ignition wire from the spark plug you can pull hard and break half the boot in the hole and it's a pain getting it out.
Re: (240FeVeR)
Thanks for the reply. So I would put anti seize on the threads of the spark plug and put dielectric grease on the terminal correct?