My ebay t3/t4 turbo:
.57 trim .50 a/r comp. .63 a/r exhaust

garrett t3 (The turbo I want)
"48/42" I'm guessing that's a/r..edit: .42 a/r comp. .48 a/r exhaust
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...l1318
^ this thing should bolt right up to my current setup also, like an hour or two

I'm only running 10 psi and I'm not planning on pushing it much past that since I'm still on stock internals at 130,000 miles and this is my daily driver. I think this turbo will spool much faster and it will be more oriented towards my goals at the moment. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.

Modified by spooled240 at 7:54 PM 6/26/2008

id say save and get a good turbo do your h.w. and plot the compressor maps of various t3 and see what you like and what suits your driving style.

shoot i wish i started to see any kind of boost around 3k,,, lol

and i've seen these turbos at way lower prices, like 50 bucks

Theoretically, this smaller/tighter housing should place the center of the turbine wheel closer to the t3 flange of the manifold correct? <being that the "snail" is smaller...i'm just wondering how this would affect my turbo placement since my brake 'm/c clearance' (sounds like a rapper lol) is virtually non-existent

I had a .48 ar housing and a .63, both stage three, and they were identical on the outside. Just make sure when you get the new housing you get the right stage housing or you will have to machine it if its to small(pita/expensive, lathe work) or, it will be to big and useless.

Swaping the housings is super easy. Unless you do something really stupid with the blades while the housings off, theres no real chance that you can screw anything up.

I'm looking at this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...l1318
But I don't know my stage housing and I don't know the stage housing on the one for sale....sh1t

The .48 ar will spool really fast.

That auction looks like a good deal, unless you have a bunch of tools make sure to pay that guy the 15 bucks to get the broken stud removed. Also make sure its a stage three.

I can remove that stud no problem, hopefully that will keep the bids down

Modified by spooled240 at 10:26 AM 7/1/2008

A .63ar 50trim is responsive from about 3000rpm on. Full boost at about 3400rpm for 12psi, 3700 for 20psi.

1992 Nissan 240sx KA24DE-Turbo: The "Showcar"
Stock internals
532whp/486ft.lbs-30psi
12.6@122.3mph-22psi
http://ka-t.org/cory_b.php

I have heard the same thing about the 57 trim, and read in many different places that the 50 trim comp wheel is going to be the best all around compressor for the t3/t4 hybrid. Something about the 57 trim actually having a smaller peak efficiency window than a 50 trim.

3000 rpms is when it starts to wake up, I can usually get about 3-4 psi at 2500 but climbs slowly. On low gears of course, the spool is delayed much more like 4000 rpms in 1st and 3200 in 2nd. But on the freeway/highway cruising 3000 rpms is the sweet spot.

edit: cory i just read your sig..30 psi on stock pistons!!! right on man, I bet you proved about half a million ka-t haters I always had faith in the old ka

Quote, originally posted by spooled240 »

i did some research on those trim wheels and I basically found out that the 50 trim had a larger window efficiency and the 57 trim had a higher, smaller peak efficiency. The 57 trim is a bit more efficient for higher boost levels than the 50 trim but the 50 trim is definitely best suited for me It's a ***** to change compressor wheels right? They are welded on and balanced.

The only research you need to do is look at the compressor maps themselves. The 50 trim is mapped to higher boost pressures and has better efficiency there. The 50 trim peak efficiency island reaches up to higher boost levels, the second island is huge and boasts a higher efficiency level by 3% over the 57 trim. The 57 trim is no match for the 50 trim at any point. The 50 trim even has a higher peak flow rate.

However, the difference you feel is not going to be THAT significant at the boost levels you are at. As for spool up, keep in mind I had 6.5 psi off a T04B compressor and on-center T4 turbine at 3500 RPM easy. That was with a 0.69 A/R turbine. The kit originally came with a 0.58 A/R which would spool a little sooner. You might check your turbo to make sure the spool issues aren't due to an internal problem. Excessive shaft play is not necessarily the only thing you check. The wheels can have some excess resistance without any detectable shaft play which can affect spool up and even power output.

Quote, originally posted by spooled240 »

yeah that's what I thought, and if it's only going to give me a little quicker spool and efficiency it's not going to be worth the trouble imo. It might just be cheaper to rebuild a used t3 off ebay or the junkyard.

I'd say save up and buy a new turbo from a reputable manufacturer. A LOT less headaches in the long run that way. Plus you can order it to your specs and probably get better results.

Going small is for queers and EasyE

For $630, you will get the best matched turbo for the KA, which can output 430whp, or 256whp at 7psi, 326whp at 12psi, a solid 350whp at 1 bar, or 420whp at 20psi. This turbo also features response, which is very useful in street driving or on a technical course featuring a lot of low speed turns. Quite possibly, the best turbo made for the KA, short of the GT3071R.

Seriously man, **** a T3. Leave that for OEM ****. No modified car deserves a straight T3 from a junkyard.

And I wasn't just regurgitating random n00b **** that everybody knows. Oh T3h efficanzyiez is da bomb yo. I was adding that this is not the efficiency where you simply say "Oh, I guess this is efficient," and don't actually feel it. In swapping, you will feel the added efficiency in response. A good friend of mine just swapped from a 57 trim to a 50trim. He has exactly the same turbine housing, wheel, CHRA and compressor housing. The only thing changed was the compressor wheel. He reported that the 50trim is much quicker on throttle.

I see, that's what I wanted to know. I wasn't sure if it was more responsive than the 57

In the mean time, I think changing exhaust housing would be the best thing to do to get the power on sooner in the rpm range. I know I'm going to loose some top end potential but I don't think that will affect me much at my low boost setup anyway.

This looks like something I should look into. It has the 5 bolt flange style but I need to know the diameter of my turbine wheel.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW

My t3/t04e isn't TOO bad, I can get 5 psi at around 2,000 rpms. It's just the flash spool hits at 3,000 rpms and that's where the car starts pulling.