turbo kit finalizing, need confirmations

[abc123omg]

hey guys!

im new to the forums, but have been browsing them for about a year.i used to have a sr 240sx (NA) and is now coming to own a stock KAs13 and i am planning to just do some light boost on it.

after browsing all the stickies for going KA-T, ive come to conclude a few things and i was hoping someone can tell me if this setup will suffice for my goals.

my goals are to run ~6psi on a t25 turbo with around 180-200whp

My setup will basically be:

- KA24de on stock internals- turbo kit- intercooler- IC piping- t25 turbo- 6psi wastegate- running 6psi- 8:1 FMU- walbro 255 fuel pump- stock injectors

from my searching so far, i am lead to believe that i need the following for a SAFE LOW-boost set up.

I...- DONT need to retarding the timing @ 6psi (or do i retard by .75 degree per pound of boost?)- NEED colder spark plugs- NEED walbro fuel pump- NEED 8:1 FMU- DONT need a tune

am i getting anything wrong here? thanks!

btw todays my bday so im in a rush to head out. sorry if i missed anything!

[WDRacing]

Looks like a good start to me man. Keep us updated on your progress.

WD

[abc123omg]

so my plan has nothing wrong so far?no need to retard my timing?

[480sx]

Cool man looks like you got it right. Just dont boost past 6-7 and you'll be golden.

Dont need to retard timing until you get into the 7-8 range.

[abc123omg]

you guys are really helpful!

when i posted this on another forum they all said things along the line of

"Its always a good thing to retard timing at any boost level.."

"put sr injectors in with a maf and tune and do a head gasket and studs minimum."

"dont expect your setup to last long"

any validity in what they said? anything i should worry about?anybody here had a setup like this last long (2yrs ish?) with no issues?

the other forum is creating a lot of doubt in my mind...

[WDRacing]

The thing about other forums is quite simple...they suck. Here at Nico we're more of a family, we may fight and argue, but more often then not we're helping each other do what WE want, not what THEY want.

Obviously you're on a budget. Which means your best bet is to keep things as simple as possible. By that I mean use items and methods that are proven.

The FMU is an excellent choice because it's cheap and allows you to run a small amount of boost with no tuning. A method and item that has been used for 8-9 years with great success now. Anyone that says different simply does not know what they're talking about. Is it the best option...no, but we aren't speaking in terms of best, we simply want to run a little bit of boost reliably on a budget.

With the boost kept under 7psi you don't need to retard the timing if you use premium fuel, 91 at a minimum.

Head gasket and studs? Tell that dude to kill himself...nuff said about that. We have guys pushing 500whp without ever having lifted the head once.

All of the items you listed I have to assume are in good condition. If they aren't, then they may fail, but that has nothing to do with the amount of boost you're planning to run nor the combination of parts you have chosen.

In the sticky there is a link to building a Over boost Protection device, read it and build it. That way even if you get a boost spike, the car will shutdown rather then blowup, which is a big plus in my opinion.

Be careful with the boost, it's more addictive then heroin. You'll be tempted to turn it up...don't. Unless you come back here and do some serious mods first.

WD

[abc123omg]

That is the best post ever

Thanks WD!

i guess expect some pictures of my engine bay in a month! my car is currently in the shop getting a newer ka swapped in. but once i get my kit and such in there. ill be back here. thanks everyone!

[WDRacing]

Whate "kit"? Give me some details on the parts.

[abc123omg]

i was actually looking into just using an ebay kit. probally something form xs-power?

they have one with a manifold, turbo, intercooler, BOV and suchi pretty much just have to buy oil lines, IC piping, walbro pump, 8:1 FMU, and a wastegate with a spring at 6psi.

also the never-overboost kit too.

i heard they've improved a lot on their stuff, such as reinforcing their manifolds and such. also a lot of supra guys and sc300 guys i know use their turbos+kits and have not had issues at all really..
Modified by abc123omg at 1:03 PM 5/22/2008

[240sxvaj]

isnt the stock boost for sr t25 usually around 7-8psi? i'm running off the wastegate on my t25 and my boost gauge reads around 7-8psi(more of 7psi).

[abc123omg]

yea, it is i believe.

[nelson8708]

Yes:Walbro8:1 FMUPull 2 degrees (small turbo = hot discharge temp. Better safe than sorry.)

I have ran a fmu for 2 years and didnt blow up.

[480sx]

Like WD said, all those quotes from other forums are complete garbage. You get those from Zilvia or something? Id love to know where those came from.

Do yourself a favor and skip the ebay kit. Or, if you already bought it, sell the turbo to recoup your losses and get a used Garrett one. Ebay turbos are a really bad gamble. Like 20 percent of people who use them dont have any problems. 80 percent will never use an ebay turbo ever again. I have seen/heard so many horror stories about these turbos, and have first hand experience(a bad one, XS-power turbo blew in three runs) with them.

If you havnt bought anything yet, just piece a turbo kit together yourself. You will save money, and you wont get any crap. Ebay manifolds are O K . The bottom mount T2 flanges are built like a rock, no one really ever complains about them. They make running your down pipe easier as well. You can pick up a used Garrett t25 from a SR or something for about 100-150.

A t25 at 6 psi is still in its peak efficiency window, so your not really worried about discharge temps. Its when your pushing a t25 past 9-10 psi that you need to worry.

[WDRacing]

Yes:Walbro8:1 FMUPull 2 degrees (small turbo = hot discharge temp. Better safe than sorry.)

I have ran a fmu for 2 years and didnt blow up.

Agreed, a slight base timing retard is to easy not to do. Just lossen the bolts and move the dizzy a slight bit...done. Atleast you'll have a little leway with timing.

[abc123omg]

so basically i can use all ebay parts (manifold, IC, piping, FMU) but ditch the actual turbo charger and get a sr t25?and get a bottom mount manifold?

[WDRacing]

Yep!!!

[abc123omg]

oh btw, should i get any gauges?

[WDRacing]

Boost gauge...must have item.

[abc123omg]

Yes:Walbro8:1 FMUPull 2 degrees (small turbo = hot discharge temp. Better safe than sorry.)

I have ran a fmu for 2 years and didnt blow up.

hey nelson, do you boost alot? how hard have you been driving your KA since you boosted it and such? and its bone stock right?

[abc123omg]

one more question! sorry guysi have a s14 ka in my s13 chassis...

so when i look for a manifold, does it matter if its for the s14 or s13 ka?

will there be clearance issues if its for the s14 and i put it in the s13 chassis?

also, if i run 6psi on a t3/t4 turbo instead, should i get a higher FMu ratio?(something with bigger turbos @ the same psi will create more power than smaller turbos?so...like t25 @ 6psi = use 8:1 FMUand t3/t4 @ 6si = use 10:1 FMU?
Modified by abc123omg at 10:05 AM 5/26/2008

[480sx]

You dont have to worry about s13/s14 manifolds, they are the same.

As far as i know, you wont need to get a 10:1 FMU simply because your using a t3/t4. I think the 8:1 runs rich enough to where you still have safe AFR's even with a bigger turbo. Dont quote me on this though, do your own research and testing.

IMO, you should never run a boosted car without a wideband. I have learned this lesson the hard way, as have many others. Its just simply not worth it. So, get a wideband, and check afrs with the 8:1. If they are lean, swap it out for a 10:1.

[WDRacing]

I used to recommend the 10:1 but I've found it to be to rich. So 8:1 FTW...

WD

[deevietboi]

i will be doing a something simular to this by the end of the year

only thing is im working the KA24E, nothing crazy just want a more enjoyable ride in the SOHC, maybe stay true to the 240 name and have around 240hp? that would be cool but 200hp is chillen

got my t25 (FREE) 5-8spi2.5" dump and downpipesr smic (might rock a used evo8 or srt4 fmic)bottom mount manifoldstock injectorsstock maf8:1 FMU300zx fuelpump&fuelfitler or walbro~93octane, i have a 50gallon barrel of race gas(110?) got it for a steal! 300$

did u say safe max boost should be 6psi? sense the t25 is set to 8psi i would need a mbc to turn down the boost? will i really be running into trouble if i ran it at 8pounds?

nelson u want to sell me that sick sohc manifold u got?

[nelson8708]

nelson u want to sell me that sick sohc manifold u got?

My T2 manifold for my sr turbo is long gone....last i heard it had been passed around to a few different local guys but, was then sold on zilvia.

hey nelson, do you boost alot? how hard have you been driving your KA since you boosted it and such? and its bone stock right?

This was back in 06' when i had that setup. I drove it daily and beat on it during the weekends and yes it was all bone stock....ka24e

[sorrowfulkiller]

i will be doing a something simular to this by the end of the year

only thing is im working the KA24E, nothing crazy just want a more enjoyable ride in the SOHC, maybe stay true to the 240 name and have around 240hp? that would be cool but 200hp is chillen

got my t25 (FREE) 5-8spi2.5" dump and downpipesr smic (might rock a used evo8 or srt4 fmic)bottom mount manifoldstock injectorsstock maf8:1 FMU300zx fuelpump&fuelfitler or walbro~93octane, i have a 50gallon barrel of race gas(110?) got it for a steal! 300$

did u say safe max boost should be 6psi? sense the t25 is set to 8psi i would need a mbc to turn down the boost? will i really be running into trouble if i ran it at 8pounds?

nelson u want to sell me that sick sohc manifold u got?

You can't turn down boost past the wastegate spring... depending on how the wastegate actuator is attached to the flapper if it is internal though you can have it open slightly, causing boost to come on slower and not hit as high

as 480 has said, get a wideband it won't hurt you more than a blown engine will. Also, if you run at 8 psi it would be a good idea to just retard the timing about 4-5 degrees, just to be on the safe side. Run as high octane gas as you can (are willing to) 91 is the bar minimum I would recommend, any lower and you're asking for problems.

For an un-tuned setup I would say around 10-11 afr should be sufficient in stopping knock
Modified by sorrowfulkiller at 3:00 PM 6/5/2009

[deevietboi]

well my buddy told me not to use 110 octane because my sensors will get jacked up? is this true?

i only ask this because i have a 50gallon drum just chilling

would mixing 93 and 110 be ok? if so what ratio of gas should i mix? half and half? 70% 93 oct and 30% 110oct? or dont mix?