what to delete when replacing NA engine

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elderZeder
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Am installing a used engine in my 90 NA 300 and want to know what components I can delete without causing trouble codes.Previous experiance has been with S30 so I am a beginner with the vg30


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Zwicked
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Things I would definitely delete:

- Bypass and remove the plenum coolant lines. Simple job and then you don't have to worry about any of those extra hoses springing a leak and making you pull the plenum. It's a completely useless system to begin with.- AIV system which is pretty much useless and often leaks exhaust fumes when old- EGR system

*None of these will throw a code on a non-Cali car

Things I would consider doing with an engine swap:

- Timing belt/idlers/tensioner/water pump/front seal/cam seals/VTC springs if it's anywhere close to 60k since last service- Rear engine main seal for sure-Trans front and rear seals-Shifter bushings- Check transmission mount-Check center driveshaft bearing for sag- Check the state of the clutch-Check the remaining coolant/rad hoses- If the EFI harness is in bad shape, no is the time to change it

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evildky
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shoulda kept that S30, I have a 71, 87 and a 91, just can't let them go

as for delete, the EGR, can go, as well as all the small coolant tubes under the manifold

Q45tech
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If you delete EGR it is highly probable that it will fail dyno Nox emissions test and the steady highway cruise mpg will fall by 5% or 1 mpg minimum!

Since EGR only operates at steady rpm cruise between 1600 and 3,200 rpm.................it should be thought of as a fuel conservation device.

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P3ngy
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But what about the 10 lbs it saves off of your car? I'm sure that factors in there somewhere for mpg :p

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OriginalWheelman
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P3ngy wrote:But what about the 10 lbs it saves off of your car? I'm sure that factors in there somewhere for mpg :p
EGR - Exhaust Gas Return

When your engine runs rich (and what Nissan doesn't) your car recirculates the unburned fuel into the intake for recombustion. This is to improve overall efficiency. It gains FAR more than the 10lbs of weight savings.

If you remove the EGR system you will nto have as much fuel in the engine as it believes it should. This causes your car to run lean, and the car then has to make ANOTHER correction and add fuel from the tank to cover the gap. You end up using a lot more fuel and running hotter as a result. Your car is then stuck cycling between slightly rich and slightly lean trying to make things even.

Bottom line. On a street car, leave the EGR.
Zwicked wrote:- Bypass and remove the plenum coolant lines. Simple job and then you don't have to worry about any of those extra hoses springing a leak and making you pull the plenum. It's a completely useless system to begin with.
Not true. The intake coolant lines are to prewarm the air before it enters the combustion chamber to prevent detonation.


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Honad
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Q45tech wrote:If you delete EGR it is highly probable that it will fail dyno Nox emissions test and the steady highway cruise mpg will fall by 5% or 1 mpg minimum!

Since EGR only operates at steady rpm cruise between 1600 and 3,200 rpm.................it should be thought of as a fuel conservation device.
It's worth it not to have all that bs on the backside of the engine where no human can get to it. My milage hasn't suffered in the least.

The most common:

EGR DeleteCooland BypassAIV Delete if you have them.

aidanair
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Im running boost jets and an ecu install and failed emissions badly. I hear my AIV burbling i think its bad. Will deleting it fix this most likely or do I have to fix the AIV.. If deleting it will eliminate the problem, where is a writeup for that.

w1nd3x
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Zwicked wrote:
- Bypass and remove the plenum coolant lines. Simple job and then you don't have to worry about any of those extra hoses springing a leak and making you pull the plenum. It's a completely useless system to begin with.
P3ngy wrote:
Not true. The intake coolant lines are to prewarm the air before it enters the combustion chamber to prevent detonation.
Before you post an opinion on a forum about something know the facts before you start blowing them off.
#1 The intake cooling lines are not there to prewarm the air before it enters the "combustion chamber". The main function is to heat the throttle body butterfly pivot points by direct heat CONDUCTION through the metal sleeves. These metal sleeves are built into the TB's and represent the furthest point of travel for the circulating water in the TB system. The entire system exists to get the heated water to these spots underneath the plenum.
Radiant heat is not a factor. Heat by conduction prevents icing of the butterfly pivot points when cruising at highway speeds at steady throttle. Even the icing risk is more of a legal-liability issue than a true safety risk. Imagine the Nissan engineers knowing that there was a risk of icing, however remote, and they did nothing about it. I know of ONE real-world case where the TB bypass may have lead to the throttle briefly sticking.

#2The EGR system reduces emissions by returning small amounts of metered exhaust gases back to the engine intake. The theory is that by using exhaust gas as part of the intake air/fuel mixture, there is less oxygen to burn, which lowers the temperature of combustion. Cooler cylinder head temps lead to less formation of pollutants, specifically nitrogen oxide (NOx) compounds. Also, anytime exhaust gas is being re-burned, that amount of "clean" atmosphere is being saved, although this pollution reduction by the EGR is considered small compared to the overall reduction in NOx. If the EGR sounds like a compromise to engine performance, then you are right. Engines were not designed to run on spent exhaust gases. That is one of the reasons that the EGR is not operational when the engine is cold or needs full power.

Other Deletes i would do if smog inspection isnt needed to register it:
EGR
Carbon Canister
PRVR
AIV's (90-92 has 2)
Throttle Body coolant lines
Pre Cats
and any wieght you can get rid of. :naughty:

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bartZ32tt
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^^^very well said, agree with all of the above.

The amount of vacuum hoses deleted is amazing, and that alone is worth all the effort to me. Only other thing you might consider is a ptu relocation.

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Z-owned
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bartZ32tt wrote:^^^very well said, agree with all of the above.

The amount of vacuum hoses deleted is amazing, and that alone is worth all the effort to me. Only other thing you might consider is a ptu relocation.
Thats cause he didn't write it. He just copied and pasted word for word from roboz32 (http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/16304.html) w1nd3x I would suggest giving credit next time rather than plagiarizing so blatantly.

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bartZ32tt
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Z-owned wrote:
bartZ32tt wrote:^^^very well said, agree with all of the above.

The amount of vacuum hoses deleted is amazing, and that alone is worth all the effort to me. Only other thing you might consider is a ptu relocation.
Thats cause he didn't write it. He just copied and pasted word for word from roboz32 (http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/16304.html) w1nd3x I would suggest giving credit next time rather than plagiarizing so blatantly.
Ah good call, I KNEW that sounded familiar. Lol.

elderZeder: You may also want to consider doing the switched voltage mod on the injectors. I don't think there are any real-world tests on this mod, but the theory suggests added longevity to the injectors. Also, Nissan made this change later on, so take that for what it's worth.

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Ace2cool
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You guys realize this thread is from 2008, right? This guy has had his engine in for at least 3 years now :p

And I immediately recognized the wording used by robo. I am a religious robo follower.

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simmode1
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Soooo... not only did w1nd3x bump a 3 year old thread but its was also his very first post & it was completely plagerized?

*slighly chuckle worthy* :chuckle:

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Chattzx
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Lmao idk why but I find this quite humorous :chuckle:


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