Sounds solid, aside from the BC parts and the Cometic gasket :mistamacadamian wrote:BC 264'S IN+EX/BC springs/BC retainers/BC intake and exhuast valves, cometic HG, ARP Head Studs. My set up with this 60-1 would be 740's, custom top mount manifold, looking into ebay intake manifolds b.c it looks like the same ****, apexi power FC. On pump gas i know 400 is not problem. Lag I dont care. I have a friend with a z32 TT, he gets full spool at 4700 and revs to 7400 and yea its laggy but it pulls hard. So if i get full boost at 4500, i wouldnt care b/c id be revving to 8. Nice power band. I see some people here and there at meets talking about mid and high 400HP SR's on stock blocks but dont understand why theres not alot of info on them. I see the same with viedos on streetfire/youtube. Im pretty much aiming for 450 stock block.
Depends who you talk to, as my buddy corey goes 10.80's @ 125 with his Slobra Suspension, tires, Level II axles. Stock 'heat'on, no port.DrifterProdigy85 wrote:Doesnt sound like too hard of a thing to do. Stock SVT Cobra's trap in the 112mph area i think. My S13 at 400whp does 121mph. Cobra needs a larger charger to get that fast i believe. Id like to try my hand at a new Z06 in a drag race but none are around. All old people drive them here.
Weak coil packs?luv2spedup wrote:dude im running a 60-1 with a .48 back housing with hks 264 cams crower spring and retainers etc with a built bottom end and a greddy intake manifold.... i dynoed 333 rwhp and 311tq at 17lbs of boost , but i only could rev the motor upto 6200 rpm cause the car started breaking up on me(weak coil packs). if i could have reved it up to 8000 /8200 rpm(i could rev my motor upto 8500) i guess i could have seen a hp number upwards of mid to high 300rwhp.....hope this helps, and good luck with the car
I didn't notice any ignition problems at 20 psi at .022 plug gapmistamacadamian wrote:it helps alot, when do high HP sr's start to use MSD isgnition? im pretty sure that would be the problem with your revs, ill be goign with the hks twin power.
Last night i raced a guys SVT Cobra in a drop arms street race. He kept telling me it was stock but the charger wined pretty damn loud to not be running a smaller pulley. Overall the car ran good. We both spun like hell in 1st and i started to pull away in 2nd and kept pulling little by little in 3rd and 4th. It was a full 1/4 mile run and i was about 4 cars out on him by 120-125mph. A 400whp 240 can give a Bolton Cobra one hell of a run. Now i cant wait to get my T67 and 2 Step and run his Twin Turbo Cobra.codyace wrote:
Depends who you talk to, as my buddy corey goes 10.80's @ 125 with his Slobra Suspension, tires, Level II axles. Stock 'heat'on, no port.
A FULL BOLT ON COBRA (exhaust, pully, tune etc etc) would be a good run for most 360ish whp s chassis cars.
New Z06's are downright nasty at the drag strip tho 0-60 in first gear helps get them out of the hole stupid fast.
You'd need something to control themdriftfan420 wrote:Why run HKS /DLI?instead of just running the LS1 coils. I thought they were direct fire. wouldn't that be more useful?
Dig running the v8's is tough, namely due to our cars having horrible street launch manners. I've found me best RPM to be around 3300-3500 rpm making 4/5 psi of boost. Super low, but it works.DrifterProdigy85 wrote:Last night i raced a guys SVT Cobra in a drop arms street race. He kept telling me it was stock but the charger wined pretty damn loud to not be running a smaller pulley. Overall the car ran good. We both spun like hell in 1st and i started to pull away in 2nd and kept pulling little by little in 3rd and 4th. It was a full 1/4 mile run and i was about 4 cars out on him by 120-125mph. A 400whp 240 can give a Bolton Cobra one hell of a run. Now i cant wait to get my T67 and 2 Step and run his Twin Turbo Cobra.
1. Get JWT S4 cams (or HKS 264 step II's)2. Get a 3071r3. 72 lbers are MORE than enough for 450 whp4. Screw Internal gate, get a top mount and external gate.kentuckyslider wrote:Drifterprodigy85, I just joined nico today looking for some insight into getting more "useable power" out of my SR without running on the edge. We seem to have similar setups and I need some advice. I have had my S13 for about 9 months with this setup and want more. First off, I'm running a stock head and cams, stock intake, and throttle body. I have purchased a top speed intake and am debating on the 70mm tomie throttle body and adapter plate. Is it worth it??? Next, what cams would you recommend? I am also considering going to a gt3076 .63ar or a gt3071 with .86 ar with an internal gate. What cams, springs, and retainers would you get that will be flexible if I decided to upgrade to the bigger turbo? My 72lbs injectors aren't efficient past 450whp so just under that is my goal! I am setting this car up for drag racing and am considering a Labonte sport methanol kit WITH THE SAFTEY SETUP.
kentuckyslider wrote:1. Get JWT S4 cams (or HKS 264 step II's)2. Get a 3071r3. 72 lbers are MORE than enough for 450 whp4. Screw Internal gate, get a top mount and external gate.
Just a few questions........1. can I use BC springs and stock retainers with the HKS step II's?2. .64 or .86 ar on the 3071r3. Why no internal gate? Do you gain much if any power. It will be much cheaper to stay with the bottom mount.4. as for retuning, will I need to send my ECU back to JWT for reflash and let them know what I have changed before I spend any time/money on the dyno? I have SAFC and NGK wideband 02 but obviously I didn't tune the car and don't know much about it.
ATP and other design houses have t2 versions of both.inkslingers13 wrote: i dont think you run a bottom mount t3 flange, witch is what a 3071r is. top mount FTW
PRobably, but BC stuff sucks. Get Supertech. regardless, you'll need springs.kentuckyslider wrote:1. can I use BC springs and stock retainers with the HKS step II's?
Hard to say, but with the topmount I'd look at the .86 to use the larger exhaust volume to your advantagekentuckyslider wrote:2. .64 or .86 ar on the 3071r
Internal gates are good for liek, 300 hp cars. Gratned some of us have had success with them, not many last for long. Preload, shorter rods, different brackets....BLAH. External gate modification is the way to go. Better control is key.kentuckyslider wrote:3. Why no internal gate? Do you gain much if any power. It will be much cheaper to stay with the bottom mount.
Throw the SAFC in the trash. Get the tune from JWT or Enthalpy, and you'll be good right out of the box. If you want more, just datalog a run or two, email JWT or enthalpy, and they'll mail you a rom chip to replace the one you have.kentuckyslider wrote:4. as for retuning, will I need to send my ECU back to JWT for reflash and let them know what I have changed before I spend any time/money on the dyno? I have SAFC and NGK wideband 02 but obviously I didn't tune the car and don't know much about it.