Awhile back I was running a bad MAF/AIT combo. I couldn't drive past 3k. Once I passed 3K the engine would stutter and my car would rock back and forth (A really irritating ride).

bogs mostly at half to full throttle. there is sweet spot where it runs nicely and pulls great but that is barely touching the pedal. big monkey racing is your car doing the same??

well for the ka24de's, the AIT is on the airbox. I'm not positive on the AIT location ka24e's.

danielsan, does your car stutter? If not how is your o2 sensors and catalytic? If your catalytic is plugged or ruined it could send wrong signals to your o2 sensors. Thus causing the the slow acceleration you're referring to.

maybe the cat is plugged up, the bogging issue comes and goes at random. one minute it feels slow and unresponsive and then all of a sudden it bam i get full power and im off. by the look of my spark plugs the engine is healthy, no oil residue, no signs of rich condition, the plugs looks extremely clean.

so a clogged cat will confuse the o2 sensor then? i hooked up a a/f gauge (not wideband) with a healthy o2 the thing sweeps back and fourth constantly from lean to rich very quickly. the old o2 only marked between rich and center readings and was slow to respond. if its the cat i will rip it out and replace it with a test pipe. im in kansas so no emissions testing.

The reason a bad catalytic converter throws off the sensor is because the internal honeycomb structure is ruined. So in reality your exhaust is throwing out the leftover debris of the catalytic's honeycomb. This leftover debris can ruin the signal.

But yea since you live in Kansas, just replace it with a test pipe. Then see if it fixes the problem.

it does this every time i replace something, o2, fuel filter, spark plugs, cap and rotor. its seriously pissing me off.

time to look for a MAF replacement. Sorry bud.

Try eBay, they sell used MAFs cheap. You could also look at the junk yards. Getting a brand new MAF will cost you a lot. O and if you don't find a MAF for the 240sx, you can also the get the MAF for the Altima. Since the Altima runs the same motor as 240sx, the MAFs are identical. Just get the MAF for your application.

i have no idea what it should read when throttle is applied, i have 1v at idle like it should.

next on the list is the engine temp sensor and adjusting the tps. i think the maf might be whats causing the problem all along...i need more info though. tomorrow to the yard to pick one up.

But yea, my MAF 'looked' really clean but in reality it was busted. What made it worst was the carb cleaner I used. Maybe the carb cleaner that I used was stronger than yours, which ruined my MAF.

But yea for future reference trying using an easier solvent than carb cleaner. Eletrical component cleaners work better.

Keep us updated danielsan and we'll try our best to help you.

ps. From past experience, another indicator of a bad MAF is when you start hitting 2-3k rpm, the car is harder to accelerate or impossible to accelerate. The engine starts shaking with intensity. Also if feel like you're being rocked back and forth between 2-3k rpm. That is worst scenario though.

EDIT: The rpm range was from 2.8k to 3.2k, when my MAF started to mess up. Anything below that range, I could drive regularly.

Modified by direktdrive at 8:31 AM 5/11/2008

not sure how the canister works but im leaving it like that, screw emissions crap just makes my car run worse when something simple goes wrong.

question for you though, do you believe it was the charcoal canister that caused your problem?

though its not as bad as before, seems like it keeps getting better after replacing parts but im running out of sensor to replace.

last two are the knock and engine temp sensor though the latter will only cause excessive fuel consumption.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/330663

Dirt is for Racing, Asphalt is for getting there. Have fun, Play in the Mud.

it does this randomly but since i have done a full tune up it doesnt do it as much. i hit the gas and it kinda falls on its face at 1/4 half throttle. WOT position sometimes the power loss is felt. i can rev all the way to redline in gear and in neutral, no difference in any gear.

so its either low fuel pressure or a worn out knock sensor. my car takes 3 1/2 rotations for it to start up. while my brothers 86 turbo z cranks right up on the first rotation as did my 90 integra, hell all i had to do was flick the starter.