I got my engine in from JSA Motors. Everything was intact, no missing pieces or parts(MAF/Ignitor chip), no broken crank angle sensor and a complete uncut wiring harness. Shipping was swift and I was able to track it to my delivery point. My only complaint was that the block was a little grimey, they said they would clean it before strapping it to the skid.

S13 Redtop SR20DET

The transmission is intact and very clean...

no transmission crossmember but I can use my KA's crossmember.

First thing I did was bust open the valve cover and inspect the internals, during my research I read some horror stories about people getting engines with rust and dirt inside. Apparently someone wasn't too fond of oil changes.

After that I completely broke down the exhaust side of the block. Striped everything!

Did the same for the intake side.

I removed the alternator, P/S pump, A/C compressor and the belt driven fan.

Broke out the bucket O' water, scrub brushes and Mean Green and started scrubbing away but I got tired of killing my back working on this engine on that old tire....

and borrowed a buds engine stand. This thing is a life saver!!!!!!

Look at all the stuff I pulled, hope I can remember where everything goes when I try to put it back.

After cleaning every knookie and cranny on this block I taped off everything I didn't want to get coated and laid down a couple of coats of high heat iron cast aluminum engine enamel to the block.

Turned out better that I thought it would.

Now that I had everything cleaned up I turned my attention towards replacing parts. The first parts that I attempted to swap out were the main oil seals. I read up on what should be changed out on any basic engine swap and the oil seals were at the top of the list among other things such as oil pump, water pump, thermostat, spark plugs, various gaskets, motormounts, oil pan, etc.

RWD SR20DET Forum by Hijacker http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/306956
This was one of the places where much time was spent reading up and researching before I decided to do this swap...very informative and it will keep you from asking a lot of repetitive questions.

FRONT OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT

Tools needed:
Socket wrench
Socket extension
27mm socket
Chain
1 transmission bolt
2 flywheel bolts
Pulley puller
Breaker bar
Seal puller or prybar/screwdriver
Seal driver

I want to change out the front and rear main seals but I can't get to the rear with the engine on the stand but the front is accesible. To get to it you need to remove the crank pulley but I couldn't get the pulley bolt off because the crank kept spinning when I tried to man up on it and I don't have any air tools so I had to think of another way. I decided to use the chain and the links that I used to pull my KA to help me.

I put two flywheel bolts through the chain and threaded them into the crank.

I looped the chain around the engine stand, stuck a transmission bolt into the link and threaded that into the transmission housing.

This kept the pulley from spinning.

This allowed me to use my 27mm socket and breaker bar to bust the crank pulley bolt loose.

Now I just need to get a pulley puller from the parts store to pop it off so I can replace the front main seal.

Here, you can see the rear main seal that I can't get to yet. Anyone know how it comes out? Does it pry out with a screwdriver or something?


Modified by positronone at 11:17 AM 5/13/2008

S13 300ZX Rear Brake Install http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=277821
S13 Fender Brace Install http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=255621
S13 Power Folding Mirror Install http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=253619
S13 Subframe Collar Install http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=215477
S13 KA24DE Engine Removal http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=299950
S13 Wheel Stud Replacement http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=247358

Ase master certified

IMPORT INTELLIGENCE
314A TURNER LANE
WEST CHESTER, PA 19380
http://www.importintelligence.com

"The whole setup ran me R1000"

Never heard of an "R" denominational bill. The ratio of "R100" to a US Dollar is rougly the same as the ratio of unicorns to leprechauns.

S14 pump

from FRsport's site: "S14 SR20DET water pump is also considered as an "upgrade" for S13 SR20DET motors due to the fact of redesigned pump for better flow."

It does have the extra bolt hole, but as you said it's not an issue. It's supposed to flow better bc of the design, see how the S14 pump is sunken in more? Anyway, with the NISMO thermostat (or any very cold running stat, and 149 degrees is cold), from what I've read they open too soon and so they do not give the coolant in the radiator time to dissipate heat bc it doesn't spend much time in there before it goes right back in the engine. I have no personal experience with the NISMO though, as I have a stock thermostat.

And honestly, until FRSport put up that unfounded claim, nobody ever considered putting a late model pump on an early model block an upgrade. I remember comparing an S15 block with an S13 block and noting all the differences pertaining to the pump. That was before FRSport listed their "claim", and I had decided back then it wouldn't do jack sh1t to increase pump flow.

I've even seen Mack from McKinney Motorsports argue against the S14 pump as well.

I will continue my tyrade against using the later model pumps on the early model blocks until someone can show me empirical proof that it is truel an upgrade.

Quote, originally posted by audtatious »

Hey wait. My balls don't hang too low yet

S13 Auto -> Manual Swap / My 240SX / Convertible Top Replacement / Silvia Fog Light Wiring / DIY: SR20DET Rebuild
Stacey L. Childs, NICO Mom

btw went and found the two threads I rant and rave in fwiw
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=276786

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=263766

Exactly!!!! It's the same issue with FWD SR's as well....get a underdriven water pump pulley, and all will be a-ok!

I took the new seal and oiled it up and inserted it on the crank.

The FSM says to use a seal driver or an appropriate tool to install the new seal which I didn't have so I just used the old seal. After getting the new front main seal in place, I positioned the old seal directly on top of it and used a small hammer to pop it into place. These seals are very hard so it was quite solid for the poundometer to do it's thing.

Got it in, checked it to see if it was seated correctly and lined up. Good to go.

Now is a perfect time to clean this area which is hard to get to with the crank pulley on.

I would advise anyone who attempts this to place a piece of metal between your crank pulley bolt and the puller screw to keep this from happening to your crank pulley bolt when you turn the puller screw. It dug into my crank pulley bolt slightly.

I put the crank pulley back on. I was worried about mounting the pulley back on...what about the timing marks, how is this pulley going to get back to it's original position? What I hadn't realized was that the crank pulley has a indention on it that matches up with the crank so it only mounts on one way which is how it remains in it's original position so problem solved. I'm going to get a lightweight underdrive pulley so I just barely put the stock pulley back on without torquing it down.

The crank pulley is torqued to 105-112ft.lbs.
*I later decided to opt out of getting a lightweight crank pulley.
A SEAL PULLER AND SEAL DRIVER KIT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED FOR REPLACING YOUR SEALS!!! I DIDN'T HAVE ONE WHEN I DID THIS SEAL AND I REGRET IT!

I was very nervous about doing this so if anyone who has done it before sees something that I did wrong then please let me know.


Modified by positronone at 11:33 AM 5/13/2008

Also, they make seal pullers that are great for pulling oil seals out.

What are you using to clean out the throttle body and intake mani? I've always used carb cleaner, which does wonder for cutting gunk out without having to get brushes and junk up in there. It would also help you clean out the IACV since you have it off. Corey240 did a how to on using Seafoam to clean the IACV, but that was with the motor still in the car. All you would need to do is spray some carb cleaner down into the valves of the IACV to clean out the carbon gunk.

If you can swing it, 3M makes these great little buffing pads that you can attach to an air tool that will clean the gasket surfaces without tearing the metal up. It leaves a really nice finish behind and gets rid of all the old gasket material.

Since you look like you're replacing a ton of your gaskets, go to Courtesy and you can get just about every gasket you need for a fair price. The only one they don't have is the IACV, but FRSport has that one. Also, if you are going to replace the IACV, West Covina Nissan has them for a little cheaper than FRSport. Just look up their eBay store.

Dirty.

Clean! The carb cleaner did wonders on cleaning out the IACV, I think I'm just gonna keep this one.

Since this is going on my built motor, I'll just have to bite the bullet and buy a new one with the updated metal screw.

Tools needed:
Socket wrench
Socket extension
10mm socket
Liquid gasket
Razorblade

Water outlet houses the thermostat.

Use a 10mm socket to remove the water outlet.

After I removed the bolts I had to man-up on the water outlet to bust it loose.

OEM thermostat. Note the position of the jiggle valve.

Pull it out.

Replacement thermostat.

Nismo vs. OEM-if it's anything like the suspension parts then it's a highly overpriced copy of the stock part.

I got a razor blade and removed the leftover gasket on the water outlet and the block.

Place the replacement thermostat in with the jiggle valve upward.

Get some liquid gasket ready and put a 2-3mm bead around the water outlet neck and position it on the block then hand thread the bolts on tight and let it sit for an hour.

Come back after an hour and then tighten or torque to 2.7-3.7ft-lbs. I didn't use a torque wrench here on account of possibly busting something...it's only 2 to 3ft-lbs. come on.


Modified by positronone at 11:39 AM 5/13/2008