All the freshman/middle schoolers on my bus (when I rode the bus) would play games like that and other stupid *** things like that. All they really ended up doing though was shouting "penis" and "vagina" randomly because the bus driver's soul finally died and she hadn't the heart to do anything but pray for death, theirs and hers alike. I hated them to no end and wished every day they'd become a late term abortion. You disappoint me Teddy.

And a real man always has at least two spare keys hidden somewhere that only they know about.

russb31021- I'm pretty sure you sent me an email and since the question is pretty general I would rather address it here so others can benefit. You're first question is about how to make the mounts here is an overview:

First what you're going to need is a mock up engine. Basically it's a plastic model version of the engine that is 100% exactly to scale and even has all the bolt holes in it so you can attach any real parts you want (oil pan, valve covers, accessories, transmission, etc). They cost around $300 but you can sell it when you're finished for around $250. I can't stress this enough... Under no circumstances do you want to attempt this without a mock up engine it makes everything a THOUSAND times easier!!!

Once you get your mock up engine, put your transmission in place on a transmission jack and bolt the mock up engine to the transmission. Next you're going to have to take the engine in and out a million times (why you have the plastic engine) finding the best spot for it, and making sure nothing (headers, oil pan, valve covers, brake booster, steering rack, steering column) hits each other. One thing you can do is mark where the transmission will hit the tranny tunnel and bash that spot with a mini sledgehammer, this 'technique' will help you get the tranny a few inches further back. Next you're going to need one of these:

Which you will use to make sure everything is lined up side to side, and about a 3% incline higher in the front than back. Then bolt on your engine side motor mounts, from there it's up to your imagination. Think of a simple way using a few pieces of metal to bolt the other side of the motor mount to a flat piece of metal and attach it to either the frame rail or the stock crossmember. Make a prototype out of cardboard, then cut it out of steel, tack it together and see if everything bolts up right or not, if everything is ok then weld it together and you're done!

Your second question was about the oil pan: Take a look at the oil pan on your SBC and you'll see the sump is in the rear, the 240SX uses a front sump, and the crossmember and steering rack are where the rear sump would go. You have a few choices, move the steering rack (big PITA, will destroy handling and possibly be unsafe), cut out the firewall and move the engine WAY back (PITA, will never be streetable again), go with a dry sump system (PITA, expensive, complicated), or possibly the 62-67 nova front sump pan might work which looks like this:

If anyone ever tries the Nova pan please let me know! Also if you're thinking about doing the Nova pan or dry sump, SBC engines/oil pans changed in 85/86 from a 1 piece rear main seal to a 2 piece so make sure your engine and oil pan are compatible.

Modified by Davidss at 4:14 PM 12/19/2007

thanks
russ

Thanks,
Russ B.

http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/faqS13.htm

it all comes in the kit on this website.

and im relatively confident their kit wont work on an iron block SBC anyway.

If your serious buy a dummy block the styrofoam look a like and get to work

Quote, originally posted by Kamin »

too bad the hinson kit is garbage, much like your signature ls1 = aluminum and im relatively confident their kit wont work on an iron block SBC anyway.

idk i'll find out i sent them a message for my 305 HO. and how could the kit be garbage when they offer the corvette mounts? (ls1) and you're right, but what i meant by my sig was sr20 sucks, ka = schaweet. sbc are bad *** though

a SBC and a LS1 are completely different. their kit is for the LS1 engines. and it sucks. its overpriced and ive seen people take it off because it fits so horribly.

I have heard good and bad things about Hinson, but since I have no practical info I'll hold my opinion.

Cutting and modding a new oil pan isn't THAT hard if you get one that's close. The NovaII is close enough IMO to be cut up and reworked.

WD

Truth is Treason in the Kingdom of Lies - Ron Paul

I have seen S chassis with small blocks, and a Ford 302 in progress. They are modifing oil pans to work. Your going to have to do the same.

1990 240sx (RIP)
1989 240sx (sold)
1996 240sx 408ci V8 (sold)
1972 Datsun 240z LS1-T project (in progress)

thanks
russb

thanks
russb

dude seriously if you cant figure out how to get a driveshaft you might wanna reconsider this swap. theres about 300,000 other things that you are going to have to figure out yourself. a driveshaft is STUPID easy. http://www.questdex.com type in driveshaft shop. call them, ask what they want. probably count the spines on the trans, and bring them your stock one. theyll make a new one for about $300.

but honestly, dont get in over your head on this. it is NOT AN EASY SWAP TO DO.

Thanks,
Russ B

When it comes to the driveshaft you can go full length to the diff or 1/2 to the carrier bearing. I would just take the half from the carrier bearing forward to your driveshaft shop and they can take it from there (they will tell you how they want you to measure).

I got my nova pan in (FINALLY!) and found a shell to put it and the mock up in and it looks like it's going to work perfectly! Looks like I'm going to have to cut up the crosmember and modify the steering rack but nothing major...

79, 80, somewhere around there the oil dipstick changes sides, believe its 80-85 is different than 79' and prior.

And heres another idea for someone to try.... they make a bellhousing adapter for a chevy 350 that bolts up to a toyota truck transmission which is a little smaller than a chevy one... and its not to bad in price.... toyota transmissions can hold up to a lot of power to.

You have to get a tranny from a camaro/transam (maybe vette?), you can't use the truck trannys as the shifter is too far off.

Using a tranny adapter is an interesting idea but it's probably not cost efficient as a borg warner T5 tranny is only a few hundred bucks. Are you wanting to use the adapter so you wouldn't need to make a tranny mouny? I can see potential problems in that because you would have almost zero flexibility on engine location.