A Reason for suspension arms! and how to fit baller wheels properly...

[yokota180sx]

**************disclaimer for the actual handling knowit guys. This isnt an end all article. it doesnt explain how certain things affect driving, traction etc etc. Its only for alignment aid purposes***********

Ok, while some terms used may be foreign to you, Google it.These are the suspension arms that are sold either aftermarket, or OEM (Nismo arms).1. LCA (lower control arm)-connects the knuckle, where your hub is bolted to the front end of your car.2. Tension rod- Connects your LCA to the tension rod bracket. Affects lateral movement of the LCA.3. Rear upper control arm (ruca)-affects camber 4. Rear toe arm- affects toe5. rear traction rod-like a tension rod….moves your wheel forward or back.

There are other pieces but don’t worry, you can’t afford them. (Or I for that matter)

Ok, on to why you need it.Front-The only real reason to get tension rods in the front is to stiffen up your response on turning and other aspects. Also moving the wheel forward and rear affect the handling characteristics of your car. Google it to find out how, this isn’t an article for that.

This article WILL however focus on the rear of your S chassis/Z32/Y33/and any other Nissan with a multilink rear.With your car at OEM static height, everything is all kosher BUT, add a 2 inch drop to that. What is affected?Mainly what you will notice offhand is the camber. Pretty much that fact that you have more of it. While camber looks cool, and has its functions, there is also a horrible byproduct for performance (in some instances) as well as tire wear. Now, with a mild drop, you may not need any arms at all, of course depending on your wheel fitment.Your factory adjustments have PLENTY of adjusting for most people. Note on my Y33 I run the rear arms MAXED OUT for camber, and its extremely menacing, but not near enough. So again, for most of you, don’t even worry about this thread.Add more than 3 inches or so. What is affected THEN?Well, its complicated. Everything you adjust in the rear end at that height affects one another. If you add more camber at a super low height, the toe gets all jacked up, then when you fix the toe, the wheel position in the wheel well gets jacked up (caster).I mean, you CAN just fix the toe, but your handling might be a little weird in some instances than before. What arms are right for youWell, it all depends. MOST people can get away with ONLY Rucas, and most get tension in the front. While other get all of it for the hell of it.

IMO if your going to run 10j be it 17/18/19 your going to need all 3 rods in the rear. Mainly, because if your running that large of a wheel, your going to need to be able to adjust it adequately, because you KNOW your going to want it slammed. This doesn’t apply to every, but 80% of the people that are running super large wheels, or want to, are going to be driving low. And driving low means your entire geometry is messed up. So yeah, get yourself some arms, from a quality company. No ebay stuff here guys, unless its used good stuff, Tein, Kazama, SPL, JIC, etc.

If you have any questions, please feel free to post or email [email protected].

[Clawhammer]

When I got my coilovers I had no arms. I had like -3+ * camber in the rear.

After I got RUCAS and Toe Arms and an alignment, the *** end of my car felt much more solid and responsive. They were having a little trouble with the rear alignment, trying to get it to the specs I gave them, is that because...if I understand correctly, I skipped the traction rods so when they adjust toe...is that what's throwing everything off? Should I get the traction rods? I got SPL RUCAS and Toe Arms, and I'm about to order their tension rods, should I throw the traction rods on?

[yokota180sx]

traction rods are a definate plus

If your unable to adjust within limits with the toe rod, then its becuase your traction rod needs to be longer normally.

[pat93]

Thanks yokota I've learned something from you again.To make this article more complete, It would be great If you would you give some overview about the alignment spec. for dd/race after putting those arms in.
Modified by pat93 at 1:00 PM 10/20/2007

[pat93]

Thanks yokota I've learned something from you again.To make this thread more complete, It would be great If you would give some overview about the alignment spec. for dd/race after putting those arms in.

[yokota180sx]

i dont do specs.i just put my **** on, drive, and if i like it i keep it.

[E7-S14]

sweet thread

i have no aftermarket/adjustable links/arms what so evermy suspension geometry is all jacked upi doubt running under +3 camberhave no idea what my toe angle isnever had my car aligned after lowering(i have my reasons)..

I'm just in a heap a trouble huh..

guess I need to get things together just a few more susp. parts to go.. then arms/links..

but yeah. +1 for the thread

[S13Teddy]

Cool article. I learned some stuff. Thanks man

[yokota180sx]

Oh yeah, to add to thiswhen you add a **** ton of camber, you HAVE TO GET TRACTION RODSi just ordered mine, becuase i maxed out my dmax camber arms to fit some new wheels, and it moved the wheel so fat back in teh wheel well, i couldnt even bolt it up.

its like a front tension rod.

[mchkc240]

Sorry for thread jacking but yokota I like your rims in your sig. What are they?

[yokota180sx]

i cant see my sigi have it turned off cause nico loads slow as *** at work.

prolly my leon hardiritt ordens.

wanna buy a set?3gs.

[nismofly]

this pic

[yokota180sx]

yeah leon hardiritts

us price is 3600.00

ill sell you new set for 3gs lol

[zrowkewl]

little off topic,but can you get ahold of the kouki tails for an s13 fb?

[Clawhammer]

I put my tension rods in yesterday. Went to Tire Kingdom where a friend works and I have an alignment plan and someone stole their wooden boards so they couldn't get my car on the alignment rack. -_-

I have a 2.5 hour drive coming up most likely before I can get another alignment. Kinda worried about it, but I thought about it and I had to adjust the new rods to the same length as the old to get the bolts to line up with the LCA...so how far out of whack could I have thrown my alignment? Car slightly pulls to the left now though. :/

[yokota180sx]

just do thismeasure from the center of your wheel to the fender, make sure you do it on both sides

adjust tension rods as needed

Ive NEVER had an alignment, and my entire suspension is changed

i do everything by measuring and eyeballingand i dont pull, or abnormally wear tires

[naed240sx]

While this hardly even comprises an article, it is horribly biased and provides almost no useful information. Everything you ever post in this forum is about stretching tires, huge wheels, overly lowering, or unnecessary amounts of camber.

If you really wanted to write about suspension arms, why not write something that has a large amount of information that ANYBODY could find useful. You failed to even touch on the benefits of heim joints, and you seem to think that having all suspension arms is mandated at a 3" drop.

My car is lowered at least 3 inches front and rear and all I have is front tension rods and rear upper control arms. My rear toe is just fine.

Also, your advice for alignments is terrible. I guarantee that if you actually put your car on a rack you would find that none of your settings are very accurate. You just can't notice it because you don't care about handling, and your car is not set up to handle.

You say that this is an "alignment aid" article, yet you don't even properly align your car.

Alignments are CRUCIAL, and "eyeballing it" will not cut it if you are at all interested in keeping tire wear down and having a car that drives well.

I recommend that anybody interested in anything other than a cool looking vip car go elsewhere for good information on this subject.

[Red coupe]

i dont do specs.i just put my **** on, drive, and if i like it i keep it.

You don't get an actual alignment you just estimate and keep it if it feels ok?

Apologies if I misread but are you ****ing retarded? Your writing a thread about suspension?

[yokota180sx]

nah, i use alot of measuering, and levels, and other tools.

but no i dont pay someone to do an alignmenti do it old school.

[yokota180sx]

While this hardly even comprises an article, it is horribly biased and provides almost no useful information. Everything you ever post in this forum is about stretching tires, huge wheels, overly lowering, or unnecessary amounts of camber.

If you really wanted to write about suspension arms, why not write something that has a large amount of information that ANYBODY could find useful. You failed to even touch on the benefits of heim joints, and you seem to think that having all suspension arms is mandated at a 3" drop.

My car is lowered at least 3 inches front and rear and all I have is front tension rods and rear upper control arms. My rear toe is just fine.

Also, your advice for alignments is terrible. I guarantee that if you actually put your car on a rack you would find that none of your settings are very accurate. You just can't notice it because you don't care about handling, and your car is not set up to handle.

You say that this is an "alignment aid" article, yet you don't even properly align your car.

Alignments are CRUCIAL, and "eyeballing it" will not cut it if you are at all interested in keeping tire wear down and having a car that drives well.

I recommend that anybody interested in anything other than a cool looking vip car go elsewhere for good information on this subject.

im glad that you have no clue about my history...or that this vip car is built to handle as well....but regardless yeah

it waswnt bias, it was saying the funtion of the rods

if you want biasi can say this

DMAX is the best ever!!!everything else sucks

there, now thers bias in the poslt

[naed240sx]

Looks pretty "built to handle".

Also, I'm hoping that that last post was written when drunk. Nice spelling.
Modified by naed240sx at 10:26 AM 12/16/2007

[ddgsxr504]

Looks pretty "built to handle".

[yokota180sx]

yeah, becuase my full dump height is really a good judgethis is really about the height, maybe 2 inches higher, that i drive at.and i have normal camber at that height as well in the rear, maybe -3 to 4 at most. so yeah...it handles really well. damn near close to my 180

and its not spelling, its typing, which i suck at, and dont care to edit

Looks pretty "built to handle".

Also, I'm hoping that that last post was written when drunk. Nice spelling.

Modified by naed240sx at 10:26 AM 12/16/2007

[Red coupe]

yeah, becuase my full dump height is really a good judgethis is really about the height, maybe 2 inches higher, that i drive at.and i have normal camber at that height as well in the rear, maybe -3 to 4 at most. so yeah...it handles really well. damn near close to my 180

and its not spelling, its typing, which i suck at, and dont care to edit

TBH, after reading this thread I would belive your 180 handles as bad as that car....

[yokota180sx]

then i do believe your an idiot!

but since you dont know what your talking about, maybe i dont either?

[naed240sx]

Look man, I'll be the first to admit that with better paint job, your car would look badass.

But if you took it to a track I guarantee you would get raped by cars with much less power that have better tire and wheel choices and actual alignments. Stop kidding yourself and just admit that it wasn't built for performance.

[yokota180sx]

let me point a few things out that you havent thought out

One, if i did go to the track, do you really thing these wheels will stay on?Two. When i go to the track, do you REALLY think that much camber is going ot be ran?

Come on man, this car is built for performance. Maybe not an all out track car like my 180 was, but its built with performance right up there at the top when needed. In a few hours, it can be ready for the track no problem. i guarantee it

and next year, when it warms up, you guys will see it!

[RBbugBITme]

You have any records to show what that 180 race car could do? For an all out track car you should have something... What kind of brakes did it have? Did you come up with a custom set up and do any calculations or just off the shelf stuff. Where was your CG at and what went into your decisions for whatever coils and shocks you used? Did you ever corner weight the car? How'd that go with your "eyeballed" alignment. What was your ride height, wedge, and weight distribution?You're a suspension guru right?

[yokota180sx]

You have any records to show what that 180 race car could do? For an all out track car you should have something... What kind of brakes did it have? Did you come up with a custom set up and do any calculations or just off the shelf stuff. Where was your CG at and what went into your decisions for whatever coils and shocks you used? Did you ever corner weight the car? How'd that go with your "eyeballed" alignment. What was your ride height, wedge, and weight distribution?You're a suspension guru right?

suspension Guru. nocan i fit wheels...yes.

As far as records. it was a drift carit went to two events, i got 2nd place at one, the other was a practice day.so tahts all i got. alot of mountain runs o tune the car, but nothing else bro.

as far as cornerweighting...GL finding somewhere to do it that wont cost an arm and a leg. alignments are almost 160 bucks for a ghetto *** one. i can use string,and crap to do it myself.I drifted on 18s....with both of them tucking damn near at fullweight distribution front and rear in turns.

i bought parts as i needed them..and had a full suspension when i was done

regardless, what does me pointing out FACTS about the nissan multilink have to do with my cars?

[RBbugBITme]

It doesn't really have anything to do with your first post. I'm just trying to understand what "built to handle" and "built for performance" means to you. Good luck with this "article."