That was weeks ago and I never revisited the issue since I decided to not go with the Rogue so perhaps they have a better idea now.

Since the Rogue is so new, it hasn't had anything come out thru Nissan as of yet. Like all new models, it takes a couple of months.

Since this is based on a Sentra platform, I wouldn't put a trailer hitch on the car. It would be kind of useless to put a hitch on a car that can't tow anything, right?

Engine size, power, suspension, and MOST importantly, transmission. There's a reason you don't see a CVT on a truck or diesel, the torque would tear it apart. There's no technology out YET that I know of that can make a CVT handle monster torque. Can you imagine a Titan with 380 lb./ft. (or so) of torque going thru a little dinky CVT?

The 1000lb rating is plenty for recreational use. You can find many small 4x8 or smaller utility trailers which weigh less than 500lb. That leaves enough cargo capacity for an ATV, snowmobile, or some furniture. Boat trailers are even lighter so a 12' aluminum boat or jet ski could be easily towed.

As for pre-wiring, I don't know what is provided. If nothing is, usually all that is needed is a trailer light converter/isolator. That can be easily installed for $100. Now you just need a hitch.

BTW the competition, RAV4 (4cyl), Ford Escape (4 cyl), and CRV have similar 1000-1500lb tow ratings. V-6 models have higher ratings of course.

http://www.nissanusa.com/rogue/accessories.html

I just bought my Rogue and was bumming when the dealer and every local auto accessory shop told me they can only have a Class 1 hitch for it.

I won't use an adapter on a class 1 because it's not strong/stable enough to hold 4 bikes, only 2 max. And strapping a trunk rack on the back or putting a roof rack on is not an option for me.

So now I am really happy. I just have to wait a while until it's available. If you're interested contact Curt Mfg and let them know you want one, maybe they'll speed up the process. They make hitch bike racks, too.

Here's their contact info:

http://curtmfg.com/index.cfm?e...=1380

The Rogue has a higher tongue weight limit at 150lbs. A 2" reciever would be beneficial (ie. slightly more sturdy) but it still does not increase the tongue weight limit. Keep this in mind when loading it full of gear and bikes.

My bike rack is a Thule T2 which can hold up to four bikes and up to 160lbs. It sticks way out so it can put a lot of torque on the hitch. I don't know how that translates to tongue weight, but a 30lb bike mounted in position 1 closest to the hitch exerts much less torque than one mounted in position 4 three feet away from the hitch. A 1 1/4" receiver would never cut it.

Modified by sirbikesalot at 8:18 PM 10/26/2007

Modified by sirbikesalot at 8:18 PM 10/26/2007

Quote, originally posted by Ticmxman »

I e-mailed Curt with a request for a 2'' hitch. I assume Nissan will also have a hitch out in a few months. I'll get which ever hitch looks the best and is priced resonably.

Thanks for the update on Nissan's hitch being a 1-1/4'', thats not good news, surely someone will make a 2'' hitch for the Rogue. The Thule T2 is a nice rack I am curious to see how the hatch clears or bikes on these racks.

I ordered it direct from http://www.drawtite-hitches.com

I'll post a followup with pics on how the install went and any clearance issues.

-SBA

Look at what they want for the cross bars on the carrier!

After straightening it out I was back in business. I had to remove the tow hook, which you can see in the picture on the ground, as well as two other bolts holding a heat shield. I also released one of the rubber bands holding the exhaust to lower it a tad but I don't think this was necessary. It was fairly easy to finagle it in place and bolt up using a long socket to reach up there.

The hitch is fairly unobtrusive, which is good, but it sits fairly far in, enough so that after I mounted my Thule T2 rack, I immediately discovered that I couldn't fold it up One of the wheel holders contacts the bumper, preventing the rack from engaging in the vertical position. There are several solutions to this problem:
1) Get an extender. This comes in an 8" length, probably too much for what I need. All I need is an extra 2".
2) Cut part of the wheel holder away. Bike may be slightly less secure and the rack not look as nice, but it would fix the problem.
3) Drill a hole through the rack and use a pin to lock it in the angled position. It would be less convenient than the simple lever, but it would work.

There are other solutions, such as ordering a custom job from Curt Mfg and sending this one back or selling it, but then it's just more money.

Back to the rack. After adding the two bike extender and mounting four bikes, I found that it didn't lower the back end much. I estimate it was about 180lbs total of bikes + rack hanging off the back.

I found that I could open the hatch enough to access the cargo area without lowering the rack. If I lowered the rack I could open the tailgate all the way.

The full four-bike rack sticks out pretty far, but that's the price you pay for easy loading/unloading and not getting damaged from contact. I think it looks pretty good on the Rogue. I wonder what it is going to do to my fuel economy though. My large framed bikes with 29" wheels are tall enough that they protrude above the roof line and stick out past the sides of the car!

The hitch from Curt Mfg:

You can't even see the hitch bar:

Uh oh, contact:

Two bike rack:

Fully loaded with four bikes after 2 bike extender added:

I can open the gate enough to access the cargo area:

If I lower the rack I can open the gate all the way:

Concerns about fuel economy. Bikes extend above the top and beyond the sides of the vehicle:

Thanks!

After my last hitch experience with U-Haul and the butcher job the did on the wifes Nissan Quest wiring harness, I will do this car myself I can do a better job because I care how it comes out.

Here is the final rack solution.

[IMG]
I had to add an extension to get the clearance I needed.
[URL]http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd107/ticmxman/Roguehitchrack020.jpg[/IMG[/URL]]

So with the extention the hatch opens in all rack postions and with a bike on the end mount the hatch just clears. Lucy seems to approve.

It appears most of the major hitch mfg's now have a hitch available:

Hidden Hitch:
Part no: 87457
Class III& IV with 2" receiver
Notes: Appears to mount behind rear bumper. Only the reciever is visible. No cutting or drilling.

http://www.hiddenhitch.com/fit...87457

Drawtite:
Part no: 75606
Class III/IV with 2" receiver
Notes: It is not clear how this hitch mounts. Part or all of the hitch may be visible.

http://www.draw-tite.com/

Reese:
Part no: 44592
Class III/IV with 2" receiver
Notes: Appears to mount partly below bumper.

http://www.reeseprod.com/

Curt Mfg:
Part no: 12247
Class I/II with 1.25" receiver
Notes: Mounts behind bumper, only receiver is visible.

Part no: 13185
Class III/IV with 2" receiver
Notes: Mounts behind bumper, only receiver is visible.

Nissan:
Part no: 999T5-GT010
Class I with 1.25" receiver

The only issue is it wouldn't fold up. Assuming the design is similar, you should be OK with Thule. Worst case, you may not be able to mount a bike on the position closest to the hatch.

I personally use a Yakima BigHorn 4 bike rack and the same Curt Mfg hitch sirbikesalot does. It fits with no issues... save for the fact I must use the tilt down feature of the rack to access the hatch.

No, I do not have that problem. My rack gives plenty of room without hitting the bumper.

Quote, originally posted by froger25 »

irbikesalot did you use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to the specific torque in the directions or did you just estimate it?

I had and used a torque wrench, but IMHO it's not necessary. Just get them fairly tight and recheck them in a week or two to make sure they did not loosen. The Curt Hitch comes with new bolts and lock washers. BTW, there is no need to drop the exhaust to get the hitch on... you can manouvre around it.

Here is my setup: Curt 1.25" hitch with Yakima Bighorn rack. Note: the rack comes with straps for 4 bikes, I have removed 2 for ease of loading since I only carry 2 bikes.

Hatch door will not open with rack up:

I can tilt the rack down and open the hatch. I don't recommend (and neither does Yakima) doing this with the rack loaded as it's quite heavy and could damage the bikes or vehicle.

If you want the capability of hatch access with bikes loaded, then try the Thule rack Sirbikesalot has.