i would post my list of mods here but there is a comprehensive list in a few places spread throughout the thread. basically it includes a gt2871r .64 and all supporting mods. and enthalpy tuned ECU

Changed the thread title to be a little more descriptive. It was driving me crazy -TA

Modified by idahotuner at 6:17 PM 3/10/2008

valve float is why.

trying to save money. some where. because i am worried that everyting is going to pile up to a large amount. not nessicarly cheap out. i just notice there are parts for sale and they say well if your replace this then you should replace that and then this and that and this and that. so i am trying to sort out what is really necessary. plus i am new to the whole tearing the motor apart and putting it back together thing. and i am only 19 and am paying for all of this in stages over the winter as i build it. this is a learning experience and i want to learn as much as possible. probably why i am on here 24/7 rereading old forums.

ok so as far as my head build goes. you guys would recomend:
tomei hg
ARP head studs
264 bc cams
bc springs.
should be good huh

not trying to build a head to rev to ridiculus rpms
what could i raise my rev limitor to with this set up.
thank you

yes even you Ilikemy240sx-your input is appriciated

With that setup Id set the rev limiter around 7.5k~8k.

Ti is lighter so it is more rev friendly but the stock retainer should be fine with BC springs.

so what about the enthalpy tune. are they really able to fine tune the car with out it o na dyno and using a computer. of is it nessisary to get a SAFC as well?

Dave Coleman at SCC had Jim Wolf dyno tune his car for a little extra, and the tune found an extra 14 hp.

SHIFT_topless

S13 Auto -> Manual Swap / My 240SX / Convertible Top Replacement / Silvia Fog Light Wiring / DIY: SR20DET Rebuild
Stacey L. Childs, NICO Mom

My AFR goes to about 11.9~12.1 during WOT and full boost which is exactly where I wanted it to be.

And Enthalpy also has very good reputation. Ask anybody with their tune. All of them will tell you how satisfied they are.

It's a bit more expensive than going with a piggy back but I bet its far better than what some people do with their piggy backs.

I would highly recommend getting a thermostat controlled e-fan. A relay with a probe that sticks in your radiator costs as little as 15 bucks. It will only kick the fan on when its needed. Your engine needs to be in its operating temperature to achieve better efficiency. Contrary to popular belief, thermodynamically, it is better to not lose any heat during the cycle of the engine and use all of that heat into expansion work. Obviously, this is not possible due to natural heat transfer and the limitation of the engine material. So this is why its not necessarily a good thing to operate your engine artificially cold by turning the fan on at all times. Not only does it load your alternator when not needed, it leads to decreased longevity of the fan, and your engine not operating at its peak efficiency.

You dont really have to replace the o2 sensor if it's not broken. Remember, redtops use skinny o2 sensor and blacktops and above use fat o2 sensor.

so i got a few questions.

as far as fuel system upgrade is a fuel pump and injectors all you need?

and as far as the spark side of the equation, do i only need to change spark plugs? i am planing on NKG IX's

NGK7EIX with .028 gap

i got a fuel pump allready and i am planing on 680 injectors i think. enthalpy tune is what i will get when it is all said and done.

and thosw where the spark plugs i was thinking about thanks.

i figured an enthalpy tune and a boost controller. greddy profec b spec II

maybe a fpr later on to lean it out and get a little more power.

The stock o2 sensor is a narrow band sensor meaning it can only tell you if you are running rich or lean and it is used for the ECU to cycle between rich and lean.

Wide band O2 sensors can tell you all the O2 readings that the narrow band misses. i.e. everything between really rich and really lean.

For tuning and also to monitor your engine's behavior, a wideband O2 sensor is really needed as this is the only accurate way of knowing what the A/F ratio of your engine is at any given time. It is more useful as a tuning tool but it is also an invaluable tool to make sure your car is not running lean which can lead to pinging.

Honestly, if you are going to get Enthalpy and not tuning your self with a stand alone then you dont really need it. Its just for you to monitor and make sure that A/F ratio is spot on which it usually is with Enthalpy.

i am getting paid wensday that means i will have 1000 more bucks to put towards my build. so that means some more questions.

as far as accessories that go with the turbo.
planing on but not sure. a gt2871r .64 turbo or a .86 but the turbo housing shoulkd be the same. pretty much as far as cooling and oil.

what are the little things i will need to make this work? it says it Bolts on to stock manifold, turbo elbow and downpipe.

i am plnaing on stainless steel braided lines and reusing the rubber water pipe. but what other little thing will i nedd to make this work. and bolt together.


Modified by idahotuner at 10:48 AM 10/30/2007

are these two intakes the same, and do you guys know if they come with the square attachment for my Z32 MAF. cause i deffinatly want to replace that rubber intake tube, cause it is ugly and it bounces.

i read in one forum on here about loosening the nuts on the turbo housing and twisting it so it sits just like the t25 but it wasnt completely clear about what parts can be reused and what parts need to be replaced

ok so fter doing a bit more searching i believe these are the same exact intakes so i guess i will go wit hthe cheeper one sincei can get a discount on it from phase2motortrend.co m yahooo lol

The intake kit you linked takes care of the inlet pipe. Hot pipe from your T25 can be used if you get a 90 degree coupler from the turbo outlet to the hot pipe.

Did you figure out what you want to do with oil return flange?