2K I-30 looking for brake Job instructions

[solomr2]

I'm about to do a full brake job on my 2000 I-30. I've lined up a source for my pads and my rotors.

Are there any handy links to instructions on this?

I've done several brake jobs before, but not the Infinity, so I'm not sure if there are special tools needed to back the pistons up, or that kind of thing.

Any helpful tips would be appreciated.

Thanks.
Modified by solomr2 at 10:43 AM 7/21/2007

[audtatious]

This should be helpful

http://www.nicoclub.com/Matt/5thgen-brakes.pdf

[loystock]

Get a free download of FSM from PhatG20 http://www.phatg20.net/

Why do you need new rotors? Are they warped or you're doing an upgrade? I have a 99 I30 and the minimum spec is 20mm for front and 8 mm for rear. If your rotors are still good, you can have them turned before installing new pads.

My experience is based on the 97/99 I30 brake system - yours might be different. For the front, it's just like any other disc brake system. You need a C-clamp to push the piston to install new pads. For the rear, you need a special adapter for the caliper. You can buy it from a car parts store for about $10. I got mine from Autozone - a 4-sided adapter that works with other cars, too. The rear piston is treaded so don't use a C-clamp or you'll break it. Once you're done with the pads, then flush the brake fluid. Just a reminder...ensure your brakes are installed before flushing the brake fluid or your piston(s) will pop out....ouch!

Rod

[solomr2]

This should be helpful

http://www.nicoclub.com/Matt/5thgen-brakes.pdf

Cool, thanks.

I got the job about 80% done before I finally checked in. It was helpful because I wasn't sure if the rear piston was retracting. I had to turn it several turns to get it back far enough to clear over the new rotors and pads. However, the instructions state you can get the rear pad retainer off without disconnecting the brake cable but I couldn't figure out how. I ended up disconnecting the brake cable. Weird!

The new pads and rotors bite pretty hard now, I got ceramic pads all around. But they make a bit of a strange abrasive sound, almost like grinding. I had to double check everything to make sure I had installed them correctly. I guess they need a bit of time to bed properly.

[solomr2]

Get a free download of FSM from PhatG20 http://www.phatg20.net/

Why do you need new rotors? Are they warped or you're doing an upgrade? I have a 99 I30 and the minimum spec is 20mm for front and 8 mm for rear. If your rotors are still good, you can have them turned before installing new pads.

My experience is based on the 97/99 I30 brake system - yours might be different. For the front, it's just like any other disc brake system. You need a C-clamp to push the piston to install new pads. For the rear, you need a special adapter for the caliper. You can buy it from a car parts store for about $10. I got mine from Autozone - a 4-sided adapter that works with other cars, too. The rear piston is treaded so don't use a C-clamp or you'll break it. Once you're done with the pads, then flush the brake fluid. Just a reminder...ensure your brakes are installed before flushing the brake fluid or your piston(s) will pop out....ouch!

Rod

Well, the car has 70k miles, original brake pads and rotors. I've always been a bit skeptical about turning rotors. For what they cost it just doesn't seem worth the hassle. I paid $35 each for the front rotors and $20 for the rear. Why take chances with my wife and kids' safety for $50 or $60 difference?

Incidentally, the front pads still had a good deal of pad left, so I'm sure they could have lasted another 30-40k miles. But they were pulsing like they were warped, so I felt it was time to change it all out. The rear were down to about 15%, so they were definately due.

Total cost:

Pads $41 a set, $82 for all 4. Rotors $70 front (for both) and $40 for rear. Entire job cost = $192.
Modified by solomr2 at 8:54 PM 7/21/2007