Looking for capacities and recommendations for fluids change (2003 Infiniti M45)

Forum for Infiniti M35 and M45, and Nissan Fuga owners.
Motorsport Nut
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Joined: Tue Mar 13, 2007 10:29 am
Car: 1995 300ZX, 1973 240Z w/ '72 SU's, many others

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Hello,

Recent new owner of a Garnet-Fire 2003 M45 with 44,000 miles. Lot's of routine maintenance questions below that I would appreciate your shared knowledge.

I will be doing some overlooked maintenance, including the transmission fluid change, not flush, on my own, and was wondering what it the normal / typical amount of fluid will I need to do this change?

I know that I must only use Fluid J, but how much should I buy to do the job? Assuming there is also a filter kit to replace after dropping the pan?

What is the crankcase capacity in quarts, not liters? What is everyone using, dino or synthetic and what weight?

Previous owner always used 10/30 Valvoline. Thinking of going to Castrol GTX? I typically use Mobil 1 in all of my other vehicles, but this car does seem to use some oil and has always been changed at around 2,500 miles. Is it necessary to use the OEM filter or will something like a Purolator suffice?

How about the rear end fluid? Fill until it spills out, like other manufacturers? Does this car require a friction modifier with the fluid?

I read somewhere on here about changing the cooling fan fluid, what's that all about? I've never heard of such a thing?

Thanks in advance for your replies, comments and suggestions.

What have you replace the rear end fluld with, Mobil 1 Synthetic, or some other OEM spec?


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szh
Posts: 15932
Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 12:54 pm
Car: 2018 Tesla Model 3.

Unfortunately, no longer a Nissan or Infiniti, but continuing here at NICO!
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Pretty much most of your questions have been answered in various posts (need to search)- and many of the capacity information is in the Basic Spec sticky above in this forum! So, I will not comment on those ... but see below for other responses.
Motorsport Nut wrote:Recent new owner of a Garnet-Fire 2003 M45 with 44,000 miles.
Outstanding color!
Motorsport Nut wrote:I will be doing some overlooked maintenance, including the transmission fluid change, not flush, on my own, and was wondering what it the normal / typical amount of fluid will I need to do this change?
If the transmission fluid has not been changed at all in the miles that the car has seen, then I would strongly recommend a flush if you expect the transmission to last! A full flush uses 14 qts or so ... a double flush uses 28. Highly recommended to do this every 25k to 30k miles.

If you just drop and re-fill, it will take less - about 60-70% of full capacity, as I recall, and this is not good enough after 44k miles, IMHO.
Motorsport Nut wrote:I know that I must only use Fluid J, but how much should I buy to do the job? Assuming there is also a filter kit to replace after dropping the pan?
You can buy a few quarts extra and return the unused, unopened bottles, I suppose - just pre-arrange it with the dealer!
Motorsport Nut wrote:What is the crankcase capacity in quarts, not liters? What is everyone using, dino or synthetic and what weight?
See the Basic Spec sticky for capacities.

Minimum I would recommend: Castrol GTX 5W-30. A better approach is Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W-40, but not strictly required, if you continue doing the oil change at 3000 mile intervals. Anything more expensive (like Royal Purple or AMSoil or the like) is probably dependent on much you believe the claims made for those oils.

As has been said here before, changing the oil (plus filter) often and regularly, without fail, no ifs and buts, at a reasonably low mileage, is better than worrying about which oil to use!
Motorsport Nut wrote:Previous owner always used 10/30 Valvoline. Thinking of going to Castrol GTX?
The Castrol GTX 5W-30 is a good dino oil choice ... which Valvoline? Some of their synthetics and blends are good oils too.
Motorsport Nut wrote:I typically use Mobil 1 in all of my other vehicles, but this car does seem to use some oil and has always been changed at around 2,500 miles.
That is an excellent oil and filter change interval ... anything less than 3750 miles is probably good enough.
Motorsport Nut wrote:Is it necessary to use the OEM filter or will something like a Purolator suffice?
Given that this is a minor price difference, and they are cheap enough in 6 packs from http://www.everythinginfiniti.com (remember to get the crush washer too!), I'd recommend sticking with Nissan/Infiniti OEM filter. If, and that is an if, you ever have to deal with warranty work on the engine, then having used the OEM is likely to be a better thing to have done!
Motorsport Nut wrote:How about the rear end fluid? Fill until it spills out, like other manufacturers?
I would assume so ... but I have not looked at the Service Manual to confirm this. Anyone else want to comment on that?
Motorsport Nut wrote:Does this car require a friction modifier with the fluid?
Hmmm ... I doubt that it would be important.
Motorsport Nut wrote:I read somewhere on here about changing the cooling fan fluid, what's that all about? I've never heard of such a thing?
Somewhat of an unusual thing for this car, yes! The cooling fan bearings are cooled too, and this fluid should be changed periodically - it is a relatively low cost thing to do.
Motorsport Nut wrote:What have you replace the rear end fluld with, Mobil 1 Synthetic, or some other OEM spec?
Any of the good fluids ought to do. The Mobil 1 Synthetic is a fine choice, I'd say.

Z

Motorsport Nut
Posts: 32
Joined: Tue Mar 13, 2007 10:29 am
Car: 1995 300ZX, 1973 240Z w/ '72 SU's, many others

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OK, So I just spent the last 45 minutes searching on this board to try and find any iteration of the following:

M45 crankcase capacityM45 oil changeM45 oil capacity

etc etc, and the results netted nothing!

Not trying to be an *** here but, I asked the questions to get the answers.

I have no problem searching a reasonable amount, however, when the results come back for different years and or cars and I read and read and get nothing, it is quite frustrating.

Just looking for first hand knowledge any home or dealer techs can share off the top of the head.

I was able to cut and paste and resize so that the sticky would print and remain on the same page, so I have most of what this post refers to now. It doesn't specify what weight oil however, curious what the recommendations are?

What do you change the cooling fan fluid with and is there a procedure for this? Can it be done at home with standard tools? Looking for further explanation please!

Thanks!
Modified by Motorsport Nut at 10:08 AM 6/5/2007

Motorsport Nut
Posts: 32
Joined: Tue Mar 13, 2007 10:29 am
Car: 1995 300ZX, 1973 240Z w/ '72 SU's, many others

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Out of curiosity, I just went out and checked because I wanted to see the condition of the trans fluid but cannot find the dipstick to check it, like I can on my GM cars. Where should I be looking?

auditech10
Posts: 821
Joined: Tue Mar 28, 2006 9:24 pm
Car: 03 M45

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I use M1 0W-40 as well. Here take a look at what is on the top page and may answer some other questions or unanswered previous questionshttp://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/125907

auditech10
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Joined: Tue Mar 28, 2006 9:24 pm
Car: 03 M45

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The dipstick is bolted securely in the passenger rear of the engine area. Try the owners manual for further help in this area.

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szh
Posts: 15932
Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 12:54 pm
Car: 2018 Tesla Model 3.

Unfortunately, no longer a Nissan or Infiniti, but continuing here at NICO!
Location: San Jose, CA

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Motorsport Nut wrote:OK, So I just spent the last 45 minutes searching on this board to try and find any iteration of the following:

M45 crankcase capacityM45 oil changeM45 oil capacity

etc etc, and the results netted nothing!

Not trying to be an *** here but, I asked the questions to get the answers.
Actually, I thought I answered your specific question with a specific answer. I'll be clearer ... did you look here in this thread: zerothread/125907? It is the sticky thread at the top of this forum! The crankcase capacity is not listed per se, but it mentions the difference when changing the oil with or without the filter - this gives you an approximation.

The very first post has the information you want ... it is right out of the Owner's Manual, by the way!

In terms of what Infiniti wants, this is also in the Owner's Manual. Their suggestion is to use 5W-30 for normal temperatures (i.e., any API grade SJ or SL energy conserving oil), and you can vary this a bit for colder or warmer climates ...

Like I said, I use and like Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W-40.

Z

User avatar
szh
Posts: 15932
Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 12:54 pm
Car: 2018 Tesla Model 3.

Unfortunately, no longer a Nissan or Infiniti, but continuing here at NICO!
Location: San Jose, CA

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Motorsport Nut wrote:Out of curiosity, I just went out and checked because I wanted to see the condition of the trans fluid but cannot find the dipstick to check it, like I can on my GM cars. Where should I be looking?
The transmission fluid dipstick is bolted down. You have to remove the bolt, twist the cap and it can then be raised. This is also used for where you refill the fluid too.

This is all described in the Service Manual - if you plan to do work on your car, this is an essential thing to have! You can get it for $20 - this is the cost of a day's access at http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/infiniti if you have a reasonably high-speed Internet connection. Please download the TSB's too.

On page AT-14 and AT-15 of the file AT.PDF, you will see the instructions on checking and changing the AT fluid.

Z

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szh
Posts: 15932
Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 12:54 pm
Car: 2018 Tesla Model 3.

Unfortunately, no longer a Nissan or Infiniti, but continuing here at NICO!
Location: San Jose, CA

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Motorsport Nut wrote:What do you change the cooling fan fluid with and is there a procedure for this? Can it be done at home with standard tools? Looking for further explanation please!
The cooling fan fluid is basically Power Steering Fluid (can also use ATF). The work in replacing the fluid is quite lengthy and can be done with standard tools, but you have to get at it pretty painfully - also involves removing the water pump. Plus, some of the clips that re-attach the piping are not re-usable.

Probably best to let the dealer handle this change, I would think.

The procedure is described on page CO-18 through CO-20 of the file CO.pdf in the Service Manual ...

Z


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