Any way to test coil packs on Maxima?

[tps2000]

Is there any way to test the indiviual coil packs on a 2000 Nissan Maxima. I know that there has got to be a way I just cant figure out how. Help me Obi Wan your my only hope.

[mbsmith8684]

Don't bother with testing those, all Maximas have that problem at some point. If there is codes in the computer, they will tell you which cylinders are experiencing misfires. Which ever cylinders are misfiring are the coil packs that you replace. (fairly easy on those) I replace em all the time.

[tps2000]

I have had three Nissan mechanics tell me it is the coil packs and they cant test them to replace them all. I am pulling a p1320 code for misfire but I am not pulling one of the codes telling me which cylinder. My Maxima is a 2000 with 140,000 very well maintained miles. I found some coil packs on Ebay do you think they are ok or should I stay the H*# away from them. Thank you 4 help.

[Q45tech]

There must be thousands of defective or misdiagnosed coil packs in dealers trash or owners hands...............could they end up on ebay?

The random misfires [without individual codes] are so mild that the only way is to substitute one at a time for a week each until you find the culprits.

Make sure you have FRESH primary O2 sensors [every 60k interval] as these are where the misfire data comes from to feed ecu logic.

[blinker_fluid]

I replaced 2 coils on my 2000 max. Each time a coil went bad the car would misfire for a short time go back to normal for about 50 miles and start to misfire again. If its not throwing a code for the individual cylinder the only way to tell which one is bad is to wait for it to misfire, leave the car running quickly get out and remove the plug from one coil, replace the plug and move on to the next. Do this for all 6. When a plug is removed the idle will change and/or the misfire will get worse. If there is no change when you unplug it then thats the bad coil.

[Q45tech]

Or just treat them as a simple wear item and replace them all every 60-100k like shocks.

Years ago when there was only one coil and points and distributer......coils, points, cap and rotor along with wires were replaced every 30k.

We have gotten so spoiled with modern improvements.

[NutriaforBreakfast]

I had a bad coil on my car andit was missing

I drove it about 3 hours at highway speed and it quit missing

I started it the next day and it was missing again

[Q45tech]

Many drivers are mentally more sensitive than the OBD2 circuitry/software is set to detect misfires.................random misfires are the result of the AF ratio being out of spec towards extra lean [leaner than 14.7 AF].

Less air, less fuel, less spark, dirty plugs, dirty intake valves, dirty piston crowns. Poor seal piston rings when engine is cold until warm up. Multi dozens of things that show up as engine ages especially when not perfectly maintained.

With the proper advanced test equipment you can listen to exhaust pulses and syncro them to firing order and gauge which pulse [sound] is ok and which is a misfire or even a partial misfire.

Usually beyond the scope of dealership test equipment.

[z1 zonly]

Just made a rig to test them today. Took the longest spare coil pack we had (we've got plenty--they really do go bad all the time) and snapped off the long part that goes down in the spark plug hole and clips to the plug. Took a spare plug wire and cut off the boots off both ends, stuffed one end into the top of the newly snapped coil pack stalk (glued it in place with RTV and used safety wire to make a handle to pull it out easily--just make sure the safety wire won't arc on the chassis or that will cause a miss and false diagnosis). Connect the other end of the plug wire to the suspect coil pack that was in the car (where the spark plug would usually clip in). Connect the suspect coil pack to its connector.

The whole point of this is to still get a spark to the cylinder through the suspect coil pack, but be able to use an inductive timing light on the plug wire (coil pack extension cord, so to speak) and verify that that individual cylinder is the one that is skipping.

Notes:

1) As previously stated, the ECU will tell you which cylinder is misfiring, so it's somewhat redundant, though it gives you verification that it's definitely spark not making it to the cylinder. Coil packs are also more likely to miss under engine load, which is easy to detect with a hand on the timing light and a hand on the throttle cable.

2) All coil packs should be replaced at once. When one goes bad the others are likely to follow. It's the same as the suspension comparison--you wouldn't (or shouldn't) replace one strut.

[BatteryAcd]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...9%3A1

This is a new set of OEM coils for $189.00, they have multiple sets, reputable dealer. I'll test themand post the results.

The only way to test them is very unreliable. The best thing to is to replace them all.

I have been driving on a bad injector for 2 years. Buy the cheap NGK's, and they'll produce less spark, and as a side effect it will put a lower draw on your injectors, and you'll barely notice a misfire, unless its really bad already.