I haven't started collecting data on the Pathfinder and QX4 yet, because not enough are signed up.

To encourage participation, anyone who helps provide the reliability data will have free access to the results.

Information: Vehicle reliability research

Comments and questions very welcome.

Michael Karesh
TrueDelta

Modified by mkaresh at 6:59 AM 5/4/2007

This concerns mainly the R50 and JR50 (QX4 and same years Pathy)... Anything that applies on the QX applies to the pathy since theyre basically the same thing... I dont knnow much about the new ones (2005s, plus theres not enough with some miles to know for sure) or the really old ones, is that by now on the older ones (up to 95 pathfinder) have rust problems.....

the eariler years (up to 2001) with the 3.3L motor had a timing belt, so be sure that every 100k you are replacing the timing belt. Theres no problems related with the belt or tensioners that seems to be "regular".

Other issues are the o2 sensors and the intake timing sensors.... The rear o2 sensors have a common problem with the heaters, and you have to take them to the dealer to get the computer reprogrammed to fix the problem... The intake sensors also occasionally go bad...

Overall they are very reliable vehicles... There are a few other less common problems but they do occur... There are basically no major mechanical flaws, as the engine and trans are very "old school" in nissan terms....

The research I conduct is ongoing, where members report repair trips the month after they happen. This approach avoids the biases you get when simply asking people to report problems that have already happened (in which case people who have had no problems are much less likely to respond).

go Nissan!!!

(I drove to NC and back, and I've been playing around with it a lot)

The 2001 model year is now more than halfway to the minimum, with 14 signed up.

not what you're looking for I'm sure, but I'll keep this thread alive.

edit: I guess I can sticky this. . might as well be a mod and do mod things. .

The best suv's on the road.

Nissan calls changing the oil every 6000km and rotates at 12000km, also lubeing the prop shaft at 12000. They call a big service at 48000km where they recommened replacing diff fluids/LSD oil, transfer case fluid, coolant flush, replace ATF, replace fuel filter, drive belts and bearing repack. And thats pretty much it from what I know for the 2001-2004 pathfinders with the VQ35 engine. oh yeah they also say replacing plugs at 168000km.

Today I found out I need a new rear drive shaft and belt tensioner; the shaft is covered under warranty not the tensioner. I have driven nothing but highway miles for the 56K on my Pathfinder, never gone off road, never gone over 75MPH yet I need a new rear driveshaft!

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but a driveshaft is not something that should go in 56K of highway miles?

I have a 99.5 QX4 and I've had a couple probs with it, but I did buy it used. Blew the transmission pan gasket, real tranny probs except for my huge post, check it out if you're curious. Did have to put on new front axles because the CV boots tore (it was 2 hours less work to put axles on, actually saved $ on labor because they charged $90/hr., stupid Sunnyvale, CA).

Put on a timing belt and let them talk me into new water pump and hoses, but that's preventative.

It's not a QX4, it's a QX$ cuz it does nothin' but cost me!

But this doesn't happen when there is a timing chain. Do pumps fail in those vehicles?

1. 02 sensor went bad- Replaced @ 70k miles.

2.A/C Compressor pulley went bad at 77k miles.

3.Bose Front speakers cut in and out (possibly faulty amp). started at around 71k miles.

Other than that, it seems pretty reliable.

Aside from going through 3 sets of rotors, belts, battery, tires and oil changes, this truck has
been fantastic. the only problem to date has been having the driver's seat motor assembly
break $489, and having the TPMS reset $50. It just seems like routine maintenance is
expensive, but considering how I drive it, it isnt too bad. I have pondering trading it for something
that gets better gas mileage, but everything else I look at just seems "cheap" compared to the quality
of this japan built SUV. I did replace the Bose head unit, but that was my choice. Really, a Swiss Army
Knife.

Modified by ky03pathy at 9:39 AM 6/24/2007

Went to Autozone with a "check engine" light on my 1999 QX4. They told me it was likely a bad oxygen sensor, specifically "bank 2, sensor 2." I'm not mechanically inclined, but they said this is a job I can do myself. Would anybody have instructions to help me replace this sensor?

rear o2 sensor
and coil pack only real matinence

most anoyance is the power drivers seat keeps going out.

Anyhow, I've had a 97 Qx4 and now I have a 00 Pathy. With the Qx4, the only thing that ever went wrong was the exhaust manifold issue that seemed pretty common. Never a breakdown, just some annoying ticking accompanied by crappy gas mileage. Other than that, nothing!

On the Pathy, I heard the problem has been fixed so I am not anticipating to much, as far as I'm concerned, the good ol' 3.3L is rock solid. I've been in the desert, up in the mts at -20, serious off-roading, the beach, and cross country trips with out a hiccup.

What a rig!

AC Clutch was replaced just before I bought it.

Suspension was shot. Replaced struts and shocks. Rear coil springs are weak. Probably will go with Air shocks.

Even after new suspension steering was still very mushy nearly to the point of feeling out of control. Turned out tires were shot(seperated belts).
After new Goodyears and new brakes truck drives nice (but rear springs still mushy).

Multi-disc cd changer does not work and blows a fuse whenever you try to use it.

Transmission shudders sometimes when shifting into overdrive which seems like a slip which takes longer to engage the gear. Not sure what that is about but similar transmission problems seem to be quite normal on these trucks.

Seems to be underpowered under hard acceleration.

Ed

Interior Still excellent shape, no cracking leather- 3 kids, power passenger seat squeaks when moving forward and backward just annoying .

Engine 3.0 WEAK! But zero problems. Regular maint. Only. Full synthetic every 6000 miles. Air conditioner clutch has been noisy since about 60,000 miles but still going. Tail pipe is starting to show some black…. May be valve seals……

Transmission, weird, minor annoying shifting issues, seems to be poor computer programming ????? I changed fluid to B&M Trick Shift with new filter and cooler seems to have helped some of the issues.

Exhaust, 95% original. I had to remove most of the heat shields at about 130,000 miles. Tail pipe rusted into over rear axle, repaired. Since repairing the pipe the end of the tail pipe seems to hit my after market mud flap when accelerating, VERY Annoying.

Suspension Front no issues Rear replaced shocks with much heavier units, considered coil over's, may still do. Need to replace the bump stops, all chewed up. Plus it's Hard to find tires that fit well.

This ride developed a bad vibration around 130,000 mile and I can't get rid of it.

The only thing I don't like about this ride is the fact that it's way under powered which leads to poor fuel economy and I feel premature engine death. I had hoped to get 300,000 miles out of the engine but with the hills around here I doubt it.

Will a bigger engine fit?????

I just want to say that I have a 2002 Pathfinder SE with a 5 speed manual transmission and I have 115000 miles on it and have had no problems at all. Besides the wonderful gas mileage that is and the having to use premium gas. It has been an amazing truck and I change my own oil using mobile 1 synthetic and had maintenance done on it at 75000 miles and it just runs and runs.

-changed ignition and distributor cap (previous owner did a shotty remote starter installation)
-new center muffler pipe and end pipe
-small oil leak and burns some oil (conventional)
-recently switched to semisynthetic
-Expensive to maintain 4WD system but it works flawlessly
-ran with nearly no coolant and a cracked rad cap for a while and didnt cause problems whatsoever (thank goodness)
-timing belt and water pump to be changed in another 50000kms, going to put a huge dent in my bank account!

no major issues, its an expensive car to maintain, but if you spend lots on preventative maintenance, its very nice to you. I hope this lasts me years to come.

98 QX4 with 171,XXX miles and i replaced plugs for the second time and just serviced the trans. it just developed a crazy idle it will go dead at a stop and go up and down on the highway.

By the way, any suggestions out there for a replacement stereo with nav/dvd, xm, bluetooth & iPod connect and backup camera? Price is not a big factor. I was going to buy a new SUV, and for what I save in just a few months by not making payments on a new one, I figure I can upgrade this one with all the stuff the new ones have.

There have been no major mechanical issues with the vehicle. 1.5 quarts of oil was burned after 3k on dino oil. A bit high compared to the other vehicles in my family I do maintenance on. Switched to semi-synthetic and I'll be watching the levels this time around, topping off as necessary. Might make the move to full synthetic depending on how well it likes the semi-synthetic.

There is some minor rusting in both rear wheel wells, which might have been aggravated by all the salt that Canadian cities put on roads during the winter. I'll take care of it once it's warm enough outside for some sanding/priming/painting. In the meanwhile, I've just been controlling the rust with WD40. Paint on the hood also seems to chip easily.

Winters tend to easily freeze windows shut, and/or power windows aren't powerful enough. The Bose 6CD changer skips frequently when it's cold out as well.

Mileage in the winter has been around 15-16mpg with 60/40 city/hwy driving. Hoping it'll get up around 17-18mpg in the summer. A gas guzzler, but not overly bad when compared to other vehicles in it's class.

Power is impressive with the 3.5L. More than enough passing power and handles hills well. Towing the contents of my apartment in a moving trailer wasn't difficult at all. I'll be anxious to see how it handles steep mountain roads during vacation this summer.

With all-mode 4WD, the "auto" setting doesn't seem to improve traction much during winter on snowy roads. Left it in 4Hi most of the time for city driving and haven't had much trouble.

It came with a trailer hitch, but no trailer lights connector. Installing a connector wasn't difficult; but removing and reattaching the plastic covers that run along either side of the cargo area revealed cheap, plastic snaps that can be easily fatigued and broken. Rumours of the extra electrical load trailer lights add burning out the brake lights fuse were greatly exaggerated, and all went well.

Even though it's probably premature, I'll be doing full maintenance on the vehicle (plugs, fluids, filters) this summer. It's just nice to have a baseline point for maintenance tasks when you buy a used vehicle. Hopefully it might bump up the MPG a few points, too.

Overall, I'm very happy with the vehicle. I'll be watching out for some of the common problems... O2 sensors and timing belts, mostly, from what I've heard from other Pathy owners.

I am the second owner bought it with 37K miles on it and I am a mechanic so I didn’t worry about what I was getting into although I knew I was going to have issues having owned a I30 previously.

I have a subscription to ALL DATA for all my cars which is a big help. Anyway here is my laundry list so far but I don’t remember the exact mileage for these issues but the truck is at 83K now. I bought it in 2003.

Drivers side cam position sensor (replaced myself very easy)
Drivers power seat (repaired myself not very easy but doable)
Evaporator canister bypass valve (repaired semi difficult)
Exhaust pipe over rear axel (repaired myself with inner sleeve and two clamps may last a couple of years but best solution for this is welding)
Mass air flow sensor (cleaned it with control cleaner)
I recently had to replace no 2 coil took about 8 hours to figure out, 10 minutes to actually replace, good luck trying that with any of the other 5 coils. Just to clarify sometimes if you have a miss that is not constant you get a DTC of 1320 the scanner wont always tell you which cylinder to I just kept clearing and checking till it finally was able to pin it down, I was either that or replace all at around $90 a pop.
That thing with the windows in the winter being slow, I have that.
Replace rotors one time around 74K
Rear brakes no problem yet.
Don't remember when it started but I have a very noisy transfer case which I will try to tackle this summer.
Everything on the bottom of this truck gets so rusty. I forgot to mention the first time I went down there to change the oil, the plastic cover that you have to remove to change the filter, half the screw were broken off and I havnt gotten around to drilling and re-tapping those out either.

My brother has 99 QX4, many many problems at 160K. He's going to sell it.

It is currently at 210,373 km and runs just perfect with not a single leak.

I should include
-champaign gold w/ tan leather interior
-fully loaded except CD changer

This truck was USED too. It was used at these people's lake house for pulling a boat and driving off road. So the body has a little wear on it, but the engine and drivetrain keep humming along with no problems, and it's especially good in the snow. Apparently they had always had it serviced at the perscribed intervals at the dealership they bought it from.