Ordeal continues .... SES, TCS, SLIP and now clicking sound when brakes pressed

[mmike87]

zerothread/209607

Despite having thought it was fixed, this AM the lights came back on. SES, SLIP, and TCS off. I drove it back to the dealer, again. By then, TCS and SLIP had gone off, SES stayed on. However as I was pulling in, the TCS and SLIP lights came back on, and I started to hear a relay clicking sound from the glove box area when the brake pedal is pressed. The car also idled rough at that time.



They replaced three ignition coils Thursday based on what the scanner said.

I checked my voltage myself - 14.1 volts. Is that Ok?

Any help appreciated. This is starting to get a bit frustrating. Thanks.

Modified by mmike87 at 9:32 AM 11/18/2006
Modified by mmike87 at 12:52 PM 11/18/2006

[ballrific12002]

i hear a similar sound from my 92 Qt. Im having a problem with my interior lights dimming when i hit my brakes. i hear the clicking only when im in park though. I also hear the same sound when i switch on my side indicators on and off. Maybe our problems are related. If you find something out let me know.

[maxnix]

zerothread/209607

By then, TCS and SLIP had gone off, SES stayed on. However as I was pulling in, the TCS and SLIP lights came back on, and I started to hear a relay clicking sound from the glove box area when the brake pedal is pressed.

Remember when I said to have them check the TCS relay in your original thread?

I think your alternator is going also, but they can verify with sufficient testing. There was a recall in 1997 and maybe some 1998. It's in a TSB.

[Beancooker]

At this point, I'm not sure. I would go with what maxnix is saying about the TCS relay. If you hear a clicking in the dash/glovebox/fuse panel, it's gotta be a relay.

[mmike87]

Remember when I said to have them check the TCS relay in your original thread?

I think your alternator is going also, but they can verify with sufficient testing. There was a recall in 1997 and maybe some 1998. It's in a TSB.

I thought the TCS relays were under the battery? Somehow, all these things have to be related, don't they? The rough idle, clicking relay, SES and TCS lights all started happening at the exact same moment.

Is the 14.1 volts from the electrical system at idle too high or too low?

[Q45tech]

14.1 -13.7 volts is ideal as measured at the battery with a quality VOM.

[mmike87]

I was thinking perhaps the Throttle Control Actuator for the TCS. It seems that this part, if acting up, could cause the various lights to come on and perhaps cause the rough idle as well? I'm just guessing.

But then where does the clicking and the replaced coils come into play? Arrgghhh!

[maxnix]

I'm just guessing.

You are.

Tackle the TCS realy next. I don't knwo where it is located on the I, but any Maxima tehcnician will. Eliminate one known problem at a time.

[mmike87]

They pulled another bad coil code, and replaced another coil.

They have consulted with an Infiniti dealership and seem quite confident that the TCS and SLIP lights are the root cause of all the problems.

I have no reason to doubt it, and they are going to hold on to it for another day or so and see if anymore coils fail.

I'll post back what I find.

Thanks, all.
Modified by mmike87 at 10:30 AM 11/20/2006

[mmike87]

Later in the day they observed some high and low oscillating idle speeds. Sometimes the car would stall. No codes were set. However, their call to Infiniti pointed them in the direction of the Mass Airflow Sensor. One is now en route for a Wednesday installation.

The dealer could have just left me hanging - fortunately they are being really good about this.

[Staindfan03]

Have them check the right front wheel speed sensor, and/or all of them.

[mmike87]

Well, I still do not have the car back.

After the last change in ignition coils, the car continued to sometimes idle rough, and that problem got so bad that the car would cycle up and down while idling and eventually stall.

So far, here has what's been replaced:

- Two ignition coils- Airflow sensor- Entire throttle body assembly, including idle control motor, and TPS- All new NGK plugs

It's now running fine but throwing a "502" code (their words). According to Infiniti, the next step is replacing both crankshaft position sensors, due tomorrow, hopefully.

I can't complain as the dealer is still picking up the tab. I'll certainly buy my next used car with these guys as well (this was already my second car from them) as they really seem like stand up folks.

[mmike87]

Well, I got the car back last night. So far, so good.

For those interested, the sequence of events seems to have gone like this.

Originally, the car was brought in for SES/TCS/SLIP lights and an intermintent rough idle (usually when the lights came on.) The codes revealed a bad coil, which was replaced. The problem came back and the codes revealed another bad coil, which was replaced. They also replaced all the plugs with new NGK plugs at this time as well.

The delaer then noticed that the idle was cycling, and sometimes stalling. They replaced the MAF sensor, and upon inspection of the TPS/IAC motor decided to replace the entire throttle body assembly, including the TPS and IAC.

The car then seemed to idle smoothly, but was throwing P0505 codes almost immediately. Infiniti suggested replacing the crankshaft position sensors, but later recanted that suggestion upon discovery of a TSB regarding this exact issue. Seems that after replacement of the IAC assembly, you have to re-learn the idle in the ECU. Makes sense, right?

Well, the car's ECU wouldn't take the learning procedure. Ultimately, the car was brought to the local Nissan dealer (we have no local Infiniti dealer) and they did two things. First, the throttle cable was too tight, preventing the throttle from ever being 100% "closed". Second, they adjusted the TPS to properly indicate "closed" when the throttle was actually in said position. They then re-learned the ECU Idle, test drove, and announced that everything was in spec.

I drove it to my kid's Karate class last night, and to work this AM and so far it's perfect.

Although this was a long ordeal (about two weeks) I can't say enough about the dealer. They sold me a car with 100,000 miles on it, albeit in outstanding condition, that immediately had some minor issues that were in reality NOT covered under the 30 day warranty. Rather than just stick it to me, they valued the fact that I was already a repeat customer and valued my future business as well, and really went above and beyond in getting this fixed. They even offered me a loaner for the entire two week period. I didn't take the loaner because I didn't need it per se, and didn't want to cause them additional expense for no reason.

It's nice to do business with folks who actually seem to give a damn.

Now, I need to replace the light bulbs for the analog clock ...

[Q451990]

That's a great story... I'm glad the dealership took care of you!

Honestly, it seems like they were throwing parts at a problem that they weren't able to diagnose... but on a car with 100K+, having parts thrown at it on their tab is a good thing!

Heath

[board drafter]

Wow,

I have a 2000 i30 102k mi. with the exact same symptoms: "SES, Slip, and TCS off" lights on at the same time. Codes have always been 1320. I have replaced one bad coil (fixed it for three days), and still getting the lights on. (more bad coils?) Runs on 5 cylinders at start up - classic coil problems.

I am buying more coils. Interestingly enough, my idle falters and then stalls (definitely not misfire), only when I'm in park or neutral (still coughs when in drive) especially when I'm at walgreens drive through or letting car run while getting out of car to get mail, etc.

I have replaced PCV - no help.

I was next going to look at the IACV /relearn idle procedure, then EGR, vacuum line leak and so on....

Sounds like from this post, I need to check throttle cable and tps, though.

I'm still wondering if these are two separate issues, but just happening at the same time on both of our cars (ironically), or if they are specifically related (could this TPS isue be affecting the coils and making them go bad?)

Does anyone have any insight on this?