What i want: 330-360whp on low boost ~400whp on high boost with the QUICKEST RESPONSE HUMANLY POSSIBLE. that is absolutley ESSIENTAL!!!! i honestly believe i wont ever need any more than 400whp for HPDE/drifting. I want to do this reliably but i have a budget. our season just started here in AZ and im gonna be really broke for the next 8 months haha.

Manifold: would like to use stock mani or HKS cast one.

Fuel managment: probably gonna be an AEM EMS but im open to suggestions

Injecotrs: not 100% decided but 650's are likley candidates.

this car sees some hellish abuse so i want to overbuild a bit. and FYI for those wondering my Mines ECU w/ N60 MAF will be for sale

SO: help me pick a turbo!

Even though most people are against it, I'd go with a GT3071R Internally wastegated. You could get away with at most using a spacer and some longer studs on the stock manifold and save space. Plus you dont have to worry about fitting some rediculous External Wastegate contraption with the limited space we have being the steering column is in the way.

If you're crazy though, you could just put a holset turbo on and not lag horribly. My friends KA24DE with a holset turbo and a custom .68 a/r i think on his exhuast spools him at 3500 and on 12 psi is around 325-330 rwhp-ish

If you havent already PUT on a lightweight flywheel or lightened your drivetrain assembly in someway, that helps alot. EI, Aluminum Flywheel/Driveshaft/Halfshafts

RB25DET Camshafts are pretty effecient, but if need be, you could always go with tomei poncams for some gewd response.

Standalone wise, AEM i dont really trust, i've heard alot of people complain about it. The reason i dont trust AEM as much is becuase they do everything, you cant be good at everything as a company, i mean for gods sakes, from honda civic intakes to god knows what to RB EMS?

The Apexi Power FC is great to tune if you have the software for it and a laptop, that way you dont have to **** with the commander so much inputting a million values. Turbo XS NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH XS POWER i saw had a pretty cool standalone for the RB25DET that worked on thier car quite well.

650's sound like a good choice for injectors.

Something that most people dont think about as much is how the engine is stabilized. Engine Tq dampeners or stiffer mounts will also contribute to response, so keep that in mind as well.

and whats all these problems with aem? ive seen a few problems with some other people, but i saw them get worked out on the aem forums. but aem built a good standalone, then their division just adapts it to specific cars.

mines worked flawless, and havent really had a problem as of yet.

and joe, id still worry about that crank collar. do you wanna just run it and see how long it goes, then switch to the ls1 :o

but what we do to the cars on the track, the RBs are really not built for that abuse out of the box

Team Race Bread - P&J forever!

ive been looking at the internal gated GT3071 and like it. i really need to get off my *** and graph everything on a 3071 compressor map to see how efficent it would be but i have a feeling it should be right about perfect for both of those power numbers. what AR tho? .83?

cams would be something i would do when necessary i.e. during a rebuild. 400 seems to be the magic number for the rb25 without having to do some big internals so thats another reason im trying to stick to that number.

accusump will without a dobut go on with this setup.

i dont know about all those problems with the AEM. the only things i know of are a good precentage of them are bad out of the box, but they are all replaced for free by AEM.

i know the rb isnt built for the kind of abuse we throw at it bro but this is the way i see it

tuning, oil, water temps. if you can keep all 3 of those in check the engine will last practically forever. 400whp isnt really THAT much power. the accusump will take care of the oil for track use, Tony at UMS is probably gonna be tuning it, and as for water temps, well thats a crap shoot. stupid arizona (BTW new radiator/ducting worked alot better this weekend. it was way way better than last time it was 100 degrees air temps)

not to mention im an AEM dealer so i can get an EMS for way cheaper. paying retail is for suckas.

and im poor. this will be purchased a piece at a time

GCG is expensive but you won't have to change oil/water lines and get a new down pipe.
Aem... stay away. You don' t need it for only 400whp. As fas as being bad boxes? no they aren't bad. They're just pathetic at reading the nissan CAS. My problems aren't fixed and the other RB25 owner on the AEM board (Taffy on 240sx forums) just gave up on it.

http://www.a2sportcompacts.com There is an alarming lack of hamburger vehicles present in Ann Arbor, take a visit and help bring them back.

1) 1900$?!?! are you insane?! i could get a GT30R, HKS cast Manifold and all lines and fittings for that price!!!

2) AEM may be overkill, but again, i get them for cheap. an EMS will cost me just a bit more than a power FC.

3) yes, 35% of aem units are bad out of the box. they have no way to test them from the manufacturer so they just send them out and replace them when they arent working. and i know about them having problems reading the nissan CAS, im talking about something else.

recheck your currency. Yes it is still expensive.
Buy a used PFC, I sold mine last year for $400.
As for them AEM, so great you know of two issues with them, would you still want that headache? That thing stranded me 5 times and I've almost gotten into an accident twice.
And just so you know- Taff was the Test mule for the RB25 ems and even he couldn't get a fix from AEM..

carl, if i switch to topfeed, thats the route ill go. i dont need no bling.

still 1500$ US. plus shipping.

and krayton has an EMS he bought from my shop, and its worked flawlessly.

Check out http://www.nismokc.com!!

as for the turbo, christ i dont know. thats why this is so hard. there are so many options that will do what im asking for i just dont know which will do it the best.

as always, i appreciate everyone's input. even if i dont agree with your opinions i will take them into consideration.

i found a t3/t04e BB setup for under 1000$, im thinking of going with that. should be good to 425whp.

do rb26 cams fit? seems like you could pick up a set of those on the cheap and make a decent improvment. or, cam gears. maybe i dunno. i say run methanol. super lean afr will give you the power you seek. and 1 dollar a gallon isnt bad. although thats for large quantities.

im curious how the aem works out. keep us posted. i think im still using megasquirt. maybe. we'll see

nice site carl!! thanks

all of this needs to be on 91 octane.

id rather make 325whp on 91 than 365 on 105 and save myself 75$ a weekend in race gas

i ran 550's and made 400 and some change rwhp... with duty cycles in the low 90s.. granted i was fairly rich, the duty cycle was a good deal higher than i anticipated which makes me think the fuel system is maxing out. most ppl say on the S chassis the max you can safely run w/ the system is 700cc on an SR. 700x4 = 2800cc. 550x6 is 3300cc already... just something to think about.

650 x 6 is a big injector that you can't "fully utilize" with the stock system IMO. i think even 550 is pushing it.. i think mid 300 wheel is a safe number to aim for, and they can be obtained with 550cc's.

with budget in mind i'd keep the stock mani and run a pfc with a z32 maf, maybe even safc if you want to save another few hundo. safc will still work fine for the occassional 400 wheel dyno pull imo.

and i actually got a turbo. one of my good friends has a RB25 direct replacment IHI turbo good to 500hp lying around he is hooking me up with.

its tough to find hard statistics b/c most poeple plop in the walbro and call it a day, staying under 350 wheel.

i tried checking the SAU forums for the bigger hp guys, and most people run a sump w/ the single or dual bosch 044's, of course with braided lines.

Modified by gawdzilla at 12:55 PM 10/4/2006

Here's the stats on fuel pumps... posted this a few times before:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpumpguide.htm

As for a turbo... on pump gas (key point) you are going to need something big enough not to need a lot of boost since you're running a 9:1 CR and still make that power

Tial is not a fan of the 3071 internal gate setup... the owner showed me the inside and it ruins a good turbo to make it work.... that is the same turbo I use to want on my 20.

I'd say for what you're looking for GT35R... there is something to be said about matching turbine and compressor wheels. The old truck compressor on a pinwheel turbine idea is for the old T-series logic and not worth the time.

Look out for turbine housing materials as well... iron housings will scale after long exposure to high heat (ie track days). You get what you pay for in a turbo...

One idea is to run a big 16G or a 20G... but you're going to have issues with the manifold unless you go aftermarket... which if you do you might as well go GT series BB.

For the displacement you have... I'd say GT35R with a proper exhaust mani will be your friend on pump gas... with room to grow when you find a 110 pump at a station

Modified by rbsileighty at 7:18 PM 10/4/2006

The Project

The Old Wheels - SOLD

The Cage

Quote, originally posted by rbsileighty »

I'd say GT35R with a proper exhaust mani will be your friend on pump gas... with room to grow when you find a 110 pump at a station

the most intelligent idea on here yet. if you are serious about wanting your car to be competitive you cannot go internal gate. they suck. PERIOD. buy a nice external gate. also, aem is the best thing you can do to the electronics on your car. my stock s1 rb25 made 307hp and 323tq last night at 10.5 psi, which was all the stock gate would hold.

if you want your car to be well built with room to turn it up in the future...,
you should do a

full race manifold
gt35r
880cc injectors
aem ems and convert the car to speed density with the aem

it will be exactly what you described and if you get a real aem trained shop to tune the car you will be amazed with how much more drivable the car will be after it is speed density on aem. do it you wont be disappointed...

i run the 3.5bar map and their ait. its worth it. my car is a blast, and stock with a front mount and exhaust.

AEM

http://www.youtube/rbosacco

their **** is amazing but im not paying 1500$ for a manifold. and a GT35r is too big for road course use. i dont need 500whp.

p.s. the power fc can run speed density too if im not mistaken.

RB25 PFC doesn't run map, there is no d-jetro version. The only other version was the "pro" which had soft rpm cut and basic two step.

but full race has approached a couple RB owners in AZ to prototype a manifold for parts and labor. about $1500. hehe

never the less its way too god damnded expensive and ill sacrifice a couple hundred rpm spool time and 2% HP drop using my stock manifold.

same goes with internal wastegate. it works fine. may not be the most efficent but its gonna be an assload cheaper.

so probably never.

well if you wanted cheap you should have bought an sr20, and if you dont even want to spend enough money to go external gate then whats the point in any of this. your gonna just buy whatevers cheap. so... what upgrades are on your car and what power does it lay out. i know that my car isn't a godsend or anything like that but for a quick tune and how much driveability i gained over the maf i wont ever go back. if you want a cheap manifold buy a 100dollar ebay t3 tubular one and brace it so it wont crack and buy a decent turbo. spend money on a good engine management or just deal with an afc or power fc. end result is that its your decision and no one is gonna change your mind, so what was the point of this topic anyway if you already know what you want to do....