BMW 318IS VH41DETT build up

Discuss topics related to the VH41DE, VH45DE, VK45DE, and VK56DE engines.
doctorchee
Posts: 168
Joined: Wed Jun 07, 2006 5:54 pm
Car: BMW 318IS

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Dear All

I am building up the following project: BMW318IS VH41DETT + manual

This will be my last project and I want it to be as perfect as possible. I do not want to live with regrets without building a real project.

I got the engine already and is trying to fit it into the engine bay now.

I need help on the following:

1) the engine oil pan hits the crossmember and power steering2 ways to solve it, put a spacer at the crossmember or modify the oil pan please suggest the advantages and disavantage of the 2 method. Personnally, I prefer to lower the crossmember

2) the engine comes with complete stock wire and ECU, it can start already. however, idleing is not stable and seems like some missing sensors, eg water temp cause the engine to run rich. Is there any good stand alone to recommend? I looking at AEM EMS now. please advise

3) this engine comes in 4wd ? whats the sutff required to make it 4wd? and where can I get it? is it visible to do? please note I am in Thailand and there is no limitation to any modification. The limitation is the driver and its wallet only. keke

4) 6th manual conversion - use T56 with Z32 flywheel and clutch? how about V160 supra 6th spd box. is it possible? has anyone done it?

My future plan will be the following, please chip in your advise. Tell me what I need to be careful or what is better etc, all comments is welcome 1) T3/T4 x 2 2) boost 0.7-1 bar on stock engine CR10.53) high bost 1.5bar with CR8.5 forged pistons if the stock can't handle 0.7-1bar of boost4) nitrous - small amount 5) T56 manual or V160 manual6) Z32 twin plate with fly wheel 7) AEM EMS 8) 720cc injectors9) bosch external fuel pump x 2 10) LSD11) brakes upgrade12) intercooler 13) maybe CO2 cooler kit - heard the alu head can't restand heat well.

Thank you.

RegardsDerrick

Modified by doctorchee at 10:13 PM 6/7/2006

Modified by doctorchee at 10:22 PM 6/7/2006
Modified by doctorchee at 10:24 PM 6/7/2006


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Mettler
Posts: 1283
Joined: Sun Jan 15, 2006 4:05 pm
Car: HR31 GTS-8 coupe, VH41/45 Hybrid Transplant

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Hi doctorchee, I recommend learning to resize your pictures :p

Also, the stock ECU is 32 bit and very powerful... if you purchase a pocket romulator, pocket programmer, and a couple of chips, you'll have all you need to write your own mapping for every aspect of the engine management, at 1/4 the cost of an inferior aftermarket ECU.

doctorchee
Posts: 168
Joined: Wed Jun 07, 2006 5:54 pm
Car: BMW 318IS

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more pictures, taking note to resize it.

doctorchee
Posts: 168
Joined: Wed Jun 07, 2006 5:54 pm
Car: BMW 318IS

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a front view

doctorchee
Posts: 168
Joined: Wed Jun 07, 2006 5:54 pm
Car: BMW 318IS

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please give advise on this problems.

modify oil pan

or

modify and lower the cross member??

thanks

doctorchee
Posts: 168
Joined: Wed Jun 07, 2006 5:54 pm
Car: BMW 318IS

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Mettler wrote:Hi doctorchee, I recommend learning to resize your pictures :p

Also, the stock ECU is 32 bit and very powerful... if you purchase a pocket romulator, pocket programmer, and a couple of chips, you'll have all you need to write your own mapping for every aspect of the engine management, at 1/4 the cost of an inferior aftermarket ECU.
Thanks a lot. sorry if you don't mind, this will be the first time I will set up ECU myself.

As such, please give me more details how to go about for it. 1) what is pocket romulator? how much and where to buy? 2) what is pocket programmer? how much and where to buy?3) a couple of chips? what chips? how much and where to buy? 4) functions of DIY ecu? fuel mapping, ignition mapping, traaction control? launch control? nos control ? staged injectors control?

Sorry for all the question. Just need help,

Thanks again

RegardsDerrick

riu
Posts: 76
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Car: 94 300ZX 2+2
89 Isuzu I-Mark RS
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A Z33 350Z 6 spd transmission should work with an adaptor plate with the VH motor.

Q45tech might know the answer to this.

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elwesso
Posts: 30810
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Yeah a Z33 MT would probalby be the way to go... Because you can then (I THINK) use the Z33 MT flywheel which then means you can use a Z33 clutch...

Regardless you can get Mettler's VH41 flywheel, make your adapter plate and go from there...

To be honest with you, you really need to take it one step at a time. Get your stuff running in the car with the trans with a little bit of boost, and then go from there..

Its possible your idling problem is due to the injectors... Just check the ECU codes.

There wasnt any AWD VH41 I dont think... I dont remember if the J. Ferie was AWD or not, but I dont think it was... You might be better off finding an ATTESA system from a skyline and making it work on your project...

Mettler is right, you can control about anything you need with the ECU as far as engine management... However if your doing so many things with nitrous and all that crap you may want to spend big bucks on an aftermarket... Its hard to say, but it sounds liek you need to control a lot of things and itd be hard to make the stock ECU do it... Its POSSIBLE to make the ECU do it, but its harder..

If you were just running some boost with bigger injectors, for SURE id still use the factory ECU...

I think your engine should handle the boost you want but plan on getting bigger injectors... the NISMO 555cc/min injectors should be fine...

as far as the oil pan, id modify the oil pan personally.. its only got 6 quarts and its made for street driving... Oil starvation on a high HP car running through cones is a concern!!! Either go with a high capacity rear sump or a dry sump.

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Mettler
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Custom front swaybar would be cheaper than trying to modify the oil pan.

And check here for a good summary with pics on the process of modifying the factory ECU:

http://forums.skylinesdownunde...age=2

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Ezekial
Posts: 355
Joined: Sun Nov 28, 2004 4:42 pm
Car: 2001 Nissan 200SX S15

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doctorchee wrote:1) the engine oil pan hits the crossmember and power steering2 ways to solve it, put a spacer at the crossmember or modify the oil pan please suggest the advantages and disavantage of the 2 method. Personnally, I prefer to lower the crossmember
as wes said ... i would modify the sump and if possible have the volume at the rear. lowering the cross member can change steering geometry dramatically.

Quote »2) the engine comes with complete stock wire and ECU, it can start already. however, idleing is not stable and seems like some missing sensors, eg water temp cause the engine to run rich. Is there any good stand alone to recommend? I looking at AEM EMS now. please advise[/quote]once again ... as wes said. check injectors. AEM has alot of support in USA i believe ... however there are cheaper alternatives available. Microtech, Autronic, etc

Quote »3) this engine comes in 4wd ? whats the sutff required to make it 4wd? and where can I get it? is it visible to do? please note I am in Thailand and there is no limitation to any modification. The limitation is the driver and its wallet only. keke[/quote]I've heard the rumour they came in 4wd. dont waste your time

Quote »My future plan will be the following, please chip in your advise. Tell me what I need to be careful or what is better etc, all comments is welcome 1) T3/T4 x 2[/quote]well x1 normally makes 300-320 rwhp on an FJ20 or SR20 so this would be a good choice. And relatively cheap Quote »2) boost 0.7-1 bar on stock engine CR10.5[/quote]check intake closing angle for VH41 and then see if you will be able to get away with 1 bar (15psi)

I know it doesnt have vvt so closing might be 48 not 68 in which case you might be pushing it. Or just get a nice set of billets or regrinds

Quote »3) high bost 1.5bar with CR8.5 forged pistons if the stock can't handle 0.7-1bar of boost[/quote]as above. check cam profiles first. if you are going to run standard camshafts then possibly run 8.5. if you are not going to get longer duration camshafts keep the compression as isQuote »4) nitrous - small amount [/quote]you wont need nitrous with 2 turbo's Quote »8) 720cc injectors[/quote]nismo or sard. go 850 cc injectors.

doctorchee
Posts: 168
Joined: Wed Jun 07, 2006 5:54 pm
Car: BMW 318IS

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Hi

Just like to check how strong is the Z33 350Z manual transmission?

I have been searching around to get 1 but can't find any yet.

Can you help to indicate me where can I find 1? any estimated price?

I will be doing the adaptor plate in Bangkok. Was quoted very cheap by my mechanic. He has been working in the local Toyota racing team for some years and even attended some short lesson from TRD. He claimed he has done lots or different auto to manual swap.

So hope he can do what he claims. I believe action speaks louder than words.

Thank you so much.
riu wrote:A Z33 350Z 6 spd transmission should work with an adaptor plate with the VH motor.

Q45tech might know the answer to this.

doctorchee
Posts: 168
Joined: Wed Jun 07, 2006 5:54 pm
Car: BMW 318IS

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elwesso wrote:Yeah a Z33 MT would probalby be the way to go... Because you can then (I THINK) use the Z33 MT flywheel which then means you can use a Z33 clutch...

Thanks. I should be going into this route. If the gearbox is strong and not too ex. .Can check how much can the Z33 gearbox take?

Regardless you can get Mettler's VH41 flywheel, make your adapter plate and go from there...

Will see how from getting the box first. U

To be honest with you, you really need to take it one step at a time. Get your stuff running in the car with the trans with a little bit of boost, and then go from there..

Yes. I totally agree with you. Getting too many things to work together at 1 time is difficult. Especially when you have problem, you don't know where to start from.

Its possible your idling problem is due to the injectors... Just check the ECU codes.

Does anyone here have a ECU pinout and ECU codes??? Thanks so much.

There wasnt any AWD VH41 I dont think... I dont remember if the J. Ferie was AWD or not, but I dont think it was... You might be better off finding an ATTESA system from a skyline and making it work on your project...

To be honest, I am just toying the 4wd idea. But if it is not too difficult and to ex, I will do it. But I don't think any 4wd conversion is easy and cheaphttp://www.cars-directory.net/...998_9/

Mettler is right, you can control about anything you need with the ECU as far as engine management... However if your doing so many things with nitrous and all that crap you may want to spend big bucks on an aftermarket... Its hard to say, but it sounds liek you need to control a lot of things and itd be hard to make the stock ECU do it... Its POSSIBLE to make the ECU do it, but its harder..

Thanks a lot. I may consider doing the cheaper way. I am not rich. I will be studying and reading up on modify the ECU. If I feel confident, I will do it.

If you were just running some boost with bigger injectors, for SURE id still use the factory ECU...

ya.

I think your engine should handle the boost you want but plan on getting bigger injectors... the NISMO 555cc/min injectors should be fine...

Can I check is the side feed injectors same with SR20DET and RB25DET? Direct drop in?

as far as the oil pan, id modify the oil pan personally.. its only got 6 quarts and its made for street driving... Oil starvation on a high HP car running through cones is a concern!!! Either go with a high capacity rear sump or a dry sump.
Thanks for the advise. I will look into this. Can you advise if is it better to custom make a whole new oil pan or modify the exisiting? Is there any aftermarket avaible? ....(doubt it will have)

doctorchee
Posts: 168
Joined: Wed Jun 07, 2006 5:54 pm
Car: BMW 318IS

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Dear All

Thanks for all the reply.

It makes my project seems so much easier when there is advise and comments.

Thanks again.


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elwesso
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the late 2004+ Z trans is what you want.. The 03s had some synchro problems I think..... The 04.5 and up is fine, then can handle quite a bit of power assuming a good clutch. the box may be kinda expensive since theres not a plethora of used ones available plus used ones are in high demand!

im not sure what id do about the pan.. id probably buy a spare one and play around with it..... basically just keep the top part so it bolts to the motor fine with a good seal and then go crazy with the rest... no aftermarket pans available, hoewver maybe you could get lucky and find something that looks similar..

doctorchee
Posts: 168
Joined: Wed Jun 07, 2006 5:54 pm
Car: BMW 318IS

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Hi

I found a year 03-05 350Z manual gearbox. selling at US$300.

Is this the market price? Its looks like very cheap. Should I buy it?

Ya, maybe I will go with doing the oil pan. Is it right to say, just keep the top sealed, and go wild on the bottom?

Is this the correct box we are talking about?

Thanks


doctorchee
Posts: 168
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Car: BMW 318IS

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more pictur of transmission

doctorchee
Posts: 168
Joined: Wed Jun 07, 2006 5:54 pm
Car: BMW 318IS

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Does anyone know what the specification for the gearbox? Z33 350Z 6th speed manual.

1) Gear Ratio??2) toruqe it can handle???3) others info??4) can mate to a VH41DE with Z32flywheel, Z32 clutch, Z33 gearbox ?

Thank you so much.

As I will be buyin this gearbox I hope to get everything right.

Thank you
Modified by doctorchee at 2:54 AM 6/9/2006

riu
Posts: 76
Joined: Fri Jun 02, 2006 11:02 pm
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89 Isuzu I-Mark RS
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as wes had mentioned, the 2003 and earlier 2004 did have reports of having bad synchros and were recalled by nissan. some people don't think the problem was too bad, but if you can get a late 2004 or a 2005 transmission from a Z33 it would be much better. use aftermarket flywheels and clutches for the Z33 because you do plan on putting down some serious power with turbo, and you'll have to custom fabricate an adaptor plate to mate the VH with the Z33 transmission due to the bell housing bolt pattern not matching up. aside from this, you may need a spacer for the flywheel.the Z33 transmission is believed to be weaker than the Z32, however there are plenty of Twin Turbo Z33's out there that are pushing 500-600 horsepower. The transmission should be able to handle that, but its questionable how much more it can handle past that.what are your power goals?

doctorchee
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My power goal is 500-600rwhp healthy horse.

any coments for the price? 300US is ok? else I will buy today... keke... Sorry for asking such questions, as I really do not know what is the market price. Else I can decide for myself.

Just being abit anxious to finish the project. U

Thanks for your details reply.




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elwesso
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that gearbox seems really cheap.. id bea little bit iffy... STILL if I were to buy a used MT I would for sure take it apart and see what should be replaced.

riu
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$300 USD seems a little bit cheap for that, but its not cheap enough that would get me worried. (i've bought Z32 Transmissions for $10, from a close friend though)Make sure that it is at the very least a late 2004 transmission and up. If I were you, I'd only look at 2005 to 2006 to be safe.Take your time to find the right parts, a few extra days of searching is better than getting bad parts. Z33 transmissions aren't too hard to find.Good Luck!

doctorchee
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Ezekial wrote:as wes said ... i would modify the sump and if possible have the volume at the rear. lowering the cross member can change steering geometry dramatically.

Ok I have yet got time to go and discuss with my mechanic. however, I have decided to modify the oil sump to rear type. I will go shallow in the front to clear the crossmember and wild in the back.

once again ... as wes said. check injectors. AEM has alot of support in USA i believe ... however there are cheaper alternatives available. Microtech, Autronic, etc

Ok. Thanks. I will check the injectors. But I like AEM is becuase of the functions like - traction control, lanuch control.... U - power is nothing without control.

I've heard the rumour they came in 4wd. dont waste your time

Ya. SAve time

well x1 normally makes 300-320 rwhp on an FJ20 or SR20 so this would be a good choice. And relatively cheap check intake closing angle for VH41 and then see if you will be able to get away with 1 bar (15psi)

Ok. decided T3/T4 from Ebay. only about 200us new.

I know it doesnt have vvt so closing might be 48 not 68 in which case you might be pushing it. Or just get a nice set of billets or regrinds

VH41DE don't have VVT ? I though they have it? or just VVT on the out, in don't have? Where to regrinds and how much? how about billets?

as above. check cam profiles first. if you are going to run standard camshafts then possibly run 8.5. if you are not going to get longer duration camshafts keep the compression as isok

you wont need nitrous with 2 turbo's just like to play nitrous... have not use it in my life. so must do it.

nismo or sard. go 850 cc injectors.
maybe I will go with standard 370cc with extra injectors. (1000cc x 2) run in staged. worry about bad idling with big injectors....

thanks for all the advise again. I will update upon any progress..

doctorchee
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Hi

Do you know what this computer is for?

1) transmission ?or 2) ABS/ traction control?

Does anyone have a pinout of the VH41 ECU ??

thanks

RegardsDerrick

Modified by doctorchee at 7:25 PM 6/13/2006
Modified by doctorchee at 7:29 PM 6/13/2006

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elwesso
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that is for the transmission.

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Mettler
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I have the documents relating to the wiring diagram for the Q45, and the VH45DE engine loom. The VH41 loom is (nearly) identical. What specifically do you need ?

doctorchee
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Mettler wrote:I have the documents relating to the wiring diagram for the Q45, and the VH45DE engine loom. The VH41 loom is (nearly) identical. What specifically do you need ?
The stock hardness and ECU is in place when I brought the engine. However, there I did not buy a half cut. As such, some sensors seems to be missing. In addition, I am thinking of tyring to REmap the ECU using the pocket romulator and pocket programmer. I hope to have all the pinouts so I can wire everything in place.

I do not know if there is anything specifically I need. As I have not have anything to study on the ECU much. Please advise if possible.

I need the following: 1) ECU pinout2) all the wiring diagrams if possible3) TCU pinout (transmission ECU) 4) All sensors wiring 5) Traction control pinouts and wiring??

Without your help, I may be lost in wiring.

Thank you so much.

RegardsDerrick

doctorchee
Posts: 168
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doctorchee wrote:please give advise on this problems.

modify oil pan

or

modify and lower the cross member??

thanks
Just some update:

went to workshop today.

My mechanic have tried to lower the crossmember but failed to. Its way to much to lower and by lower the engine, there is no space for the exhaust.

Both of us have tried to think of how to modify the oil pan. But as the air con compressor and power steering pump is all rest on the front of oil pan, it seems a lot of works. And we are afraid that by modify the oil pan, will it cause any problems to the engine. As such, we give up this routh.

So lastly, we decide not to modify anything, but lift the engine higher. We will then cut the bonnect up for the engine part that will stick out of the engine bay. It will be similar with the guy that did the S13 VH41DETT. haha nice job.

OK so much more, I will be ordering the 350Z transmission to mate to the engine also.

Thanks for all the help guys.

Will keep you update,

RegardsDerrick

doctorchee
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Mettler wrote:I have the documents relating to the wiring diagram for the Q45, and the VH45DE engine loom. The VH41 loom is (nearly) identical. What specifically do you need ?
Help help please forward documents.

thank you thank you.

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Jesda
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I'm going to be in Thailand in July. I MUST SEE THIS BEAST!

doctorchee
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Jesda wrote:I'm going to be in Thailand in July. I MUST SEE THIS BEAST!
Haha its not a beast yet. Its in the making.... trying to gather all the bits required to make it work...

Yes, you are most welcome.

Please let me know your schedule. date you coming and when you leaving.

Please note I will not be in Bangkok from 28/06-1/07 in Phuket and 6-10/7 Singapore.

Above is all my schedule.

Let me know you coming with who and what programs you are looking for. I can be your tour guide. Here have lots of "special service" haha

I can help to arrange hotel booking etc also.

Ok Take care.

Can call me at (66) 097888660

RegardsDerrick



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