Hey everyone whats up.

Well as I saw another thread asking for SAFC help (as did I) and I thought it might be a good idea to make a thread where it would be WAY easier to search out answers, see people's systems and settings.

These units can be complicated at first and even appear a little ominous to the first timer so this should help.

So for those who are already using either the SAFC (LCD screen with button's) or the SAFC II (LCD screen with knob) post up your COMPLETE settings including, Throttle Point, NE Points, High/Low Throttle and Fuel % Correction for each NE Point.

Also include what turbo system your running like kind of turbo, injector's, ect, ect. Don't forget to mention if you've tunned on the dyno, via a Wideband or not at all.

True no two cars will be running the exact same settings despite maybe having the same turbo system but at least it will give new people something to research on and use to just drive there cars and get to the dyno or tune with a wideband.

Anyway here's my SAFC settings (have NOT hit the dyno as yet)

NE Points: 1000rpm, 2500rpm, 3000rpm, 3500rpm, 4000rpm, 4500rpm, 5000rpm and 6000rpm

Throttle Point: Lo - 10% / High - 43%

Low Throttle Fuel Correction: -25% across ALL NE Points

High Throttle Fuel Correction: 1000rpm -17%, 2500rpm -17%, 3000 -16%, 3500rpm -15%, 4000rpm -15%, 4500rpm -15%, 5000rpm -15% and 6000rpm -15%

My turbo system is, SSAutochrome Manifold, SR T25 Turbo, SR Turbo Extension, Megan Racing 3" Downpipe, SR 370cc Injector's, Megan Racing Fuel Pressure Regulator, 300zx Fuel Filter, SR SMIC, Walboro Fuel Pump, GReddy Type S BOV (atmospheric) and the SAFC (buttons)

So that's me how about you???

Also PLEASE feel free to ask any questions, post any comments or concerns as this will probabley go a long to helping out a lot of people.

Take care guys.

Easy

Modified by side waz at 4:23 PM 10/24/2005

1990 Nissan R32 Skyline GTS-T Type M, RB20det
Project Sponsored By JDM-Place ( http://www.jdmplace.com )

And my FMIC was ordered last week, but just got shipped today, so another week or two for that to come in. D@MN them

Tx-Sx-FS - FOR SURE let me know about that fmic kit, take pic's of the install, pic's of any prob's, how you solved them and so on. It's a great deal on that kit and I may be interested in it myself. Just want to know about it all first.

Hopefully other people will be posting up there settings and system so everyone will have lots of information to assist in there own set up.

Hey thanks, I'm glad you agree.

Do you think you could make this thread a "Sticky" then? It's always up top and easily accessable.

I also agree that FULLY tunned settings are the best but at least having numbers (like mine even) allows the guys a base starting to point. You can't push to hard or really stay in the boost for to long, as you'll lean out over 4500rpm's, but untill they hit the dyno or get a wideband you can drive with no issues.

Come guys post up.

Lo map is -50% across the board, which gives me 14.5-15.5 afr's while cruising around town.

High map is -50% from 1000-2200rpm's, -45% at 2800rpm's and -35% 3400-7000rpm's which gives me afr's of 12.5 during spool and 10.8 to 11.5 during full boost, which is at about 10.5psi.

NE points are 1000,1600,2200,2800,3400,4000,4600,5200,5800,6400,7000, and 7600rpms

Dec settings are 1.1,1.4, and 2.0. I have no stalling problems at all.

Throttle point is 10% and 33%

All These settings are working really good for me, I have excellent streetability and it pulls like hell at WOT. However, i'm not to certain about the NE points, I have not touched them.

I say one of the mods should add it to the "great info here" thread that's already stickied. It just makes this forum much less cluttered.

Anyway, I will post my settings after I tune some more.

That way works out great to but untill we get a lot more reply's with peoples settings and what not, I think having it "Sticky'd" would be best.

Then after theres a lot of info, toss in the section.

Keeping this thread right up top and easy to see will hopefully get more guys adding there info, questions, comments or concerns on the SAFC.

crzycav86 - I look forward to seeing your settings man.

Have a good one guys.

""when the car is completely cool start it up. have the safc mointoring throttle %, air flow, and rpms. have the engine at 1000rpms and write down the air flow. then have the engine at 2000rpms and write down the throttle % and air flow.

now go to the dec. air settings. the THR setting is the throttle % you documented at 2000rpms. the NE1 setting is the air flow you had at 1000rpms. the NE2 setting is the air flow you had at 2000rpms. this will get you very close to the settings you need. may not be perfect but very close. this will allow you to run an atmospheric bov without stumbling between gears""

My current setup are Greddy FMIC, T28,255lph pump, 555cc injectors, and a AEM wideband + hks blowoff--. close to what WHEELWONDER have..
I forgot what my previous settings where but this is my current
SAFC settings are:
HI map +22% all points
LO map +23% all points
DEC AIR : was Thr ****%, Ne1 10%, Ne2 10%
now 1.1 ne1 1.4 ne2 2.0
TH point: 44%, 45%
and my air/fuel readings are really unstable at idle...

what is wrong with this bomb for being dumb...

Modified by deathBooster at 2:02 PM 10/27/2005

It's very hard to bench tune a car. What are your actual AFR's? What rpm do you see boost? Are you using a wideband air fuel monitor, cause the other ones simply don't work. You'll know your rich, but thats about it, you don't wanna tune on boost with one. They are only marginal for idle.

Your decel air settings also have a HUGE part to play with idle. But EVERY car is different with those, although we can probably get you close. Email Structure if you have problems, he's a wiz with SAFII. I can tune almost anything, but I hate doing it over the internet. If something were to go wrong, I'd feel pretty badly.

WD

Truth is Treason in the Kingdom of Lies - Ron Paul

Hi Throttle: +25% 1000-2200, +30% 2800, +40 3400-7600
Lo throttle: +23% 1000-7600
Throttle: lo 10%, hi 35%
dec air: 1.1% ne1 1.4% , ne2 2.4% --> need to fix this tomorow with cold start

a/f readings from my AEM widebad
idle at 828rpm afl = 3.7%-4% a/f unstable mostly between 12-14 maybe 13

2000rpm when cruising afl = 2.5%

3000rpm afl = 1.3%

So, this is wat i collected just now.. how bad is this??

Well finally there's some settings being posted up so that's good.

Now I've seen a lot of you mentioning the Dec Air feature on the SAFC. I totally understand it's function as it aids in not letting the car stall out after letting off the throttle when it's wide open.

I am currently not using though, as I adjusted my idle on the motor from 7-750ish to 9-950 ish and so far the car has'nt stalled out on me once. I'm just curious though if the Dec Air function MUST be used b/c it's connected to the rest of the SAFC in some way or, does it not matter about using it and the fact that I've solved any stall issues via motor is fine? A little clerification here would be great.

I've also changed some of my current settings a little and will post them up tomorrow. I am not sure how well it's really working but I think there's a difference. According to my air/fuel gauge ( which I know is'nt all that accurate at all) I don't lean out quite as fast and it feels a little smoother.

I just wish I could hit the dyno sometime soon as I'd like to see how close I am, either that or see someone's settings here that has been dynoed and uses the same set up as me.

result:
4000rmp -> 10psi the car will go lean 14.7-15... afl=0.5...

how do i make it rich??
do i change the hi throttle 3400-7600 to +45%
what are the correct readings for the afl????

Ok here's the new numbers I'm using and so far they seem to be working out ok as according to my air/fuel gauge, I am staying more in the optimum range as opposed to mostly always leaning out. I know this is'nt the way to really know what my a/f's are but things do seem smoother.

I also based these on when my boost seems to really start kicking in which is approximately 3000 RPM's.

NE Points: 1000rpm, 2500, 3000, 3500, 4000, 4500, 5000, 5500

Throttle Position: Lo 15%, HI 35%

Low Throttle: -25%, -25%, -24%, -24%, -23%, -22%, -20%, -19%

HI Throttle: -15%, -13%, -11%, -8%, -6%, -5%, -4%, -2%

Since I have not yet dynoed I don't where the turbo stops making power. I lean out to much for my liking so I have'nt bothered to find that out. I do know in the higher rpm's more air is coming in and as such, more fuel needs to be added so that's why the numbers approach 0 in the high end of the power band. I don't push it all that hard either but just to a little safer if I'm playing around, it's better to be running a little rich then to lean.

Keep posting up your settings as well as anything else to do with the SAFC so people can look here for help.

Have a good one.

by the way side waz.. i need to make sure in the hi and low throttle.. when i move toward -50% or +50%... to the negative side is leaner.. and to the positive richer?? right??

right now my settings seems to be alright.

Here is a link that might help somebody understand the afc..
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/newafc.htm

At least that's my understanding but anyone please correct me if I'm wrong.

So not all +%'s are wrong...depends on your car I guess...but idk..I feel as if they didn't tune it well..they said my car was running a dangerous "14.5:1 AFR" and they set it down to a 12.5:1, but from what I've read on here, or from what I recall at least, 14.5:1 is more of an optiumum number than what they set it down to.

Reviving this thread with a question to this.

How close is close? I'm asking b/c I am going have to use this function on my SAFC and there's been a couple of guys here who have really helped with this but it's sort of two different ways of doing it.

Whats the best, most accurate way? There is what you suggested, then there is this,

taken from S14tat:
this is what you do in laymens term.

the ne1 and ne2 is the air flow percent you put down.

ne1 would be the first point on your lo- hi throttle map rpm.

ne2 would be the second point on your lo-hi throttle map rpm.

the throttle number on the decel air would be throttle percent its required to rev it to the ne2 rpm.

and then your done. It just gets a little confusing having a bunch of different ways to something thats probabley really simple. LOL

As it turned out I stalled when letting off the throttle. Then it hit me b/c it's very cold up here now, and I had the heater and rear defrost on, I did'nt take that in to account as it takes more power and lowers the rpm's even at idle. So back under the hood I went. Keeping the heat on high and the rear defrost on I adjusted the idle back up to around 900rpm's, played with the Dec settings and I "THINK" it's working. I'll know tomorrow after the car sat all night.

Anyway my new set up, including the DEC SETTINGS are,

NE POINTS: 1000rpm, 2000rpm, 3000rpm, 3500rpm, 4000rpm, 4500rpm, 5000rpm and 6000rpm

THROTTLE POINT'S: Lo - 10%, Hi - 40%

FUEL CORRECTION FOR NE POINTS:
LO > From 1000rpm's to 5000rpm's -27%, 6000rpm's -26%
HI > -15%, -13%, -10%, -8%, -5%, -4%, -3%, -2%

DECEL SETTINGS:
THR% - 4.5%
NE1 - 0.4
NE2 - 3.5

Can someone let me know if I'm bang on or at least close to having eh Dec Settings right?

Thanks a lot.

My current settings are : t28 turbo, 555cc injector, stock sr maf, 3" downpipe + straight cat.

I didnt not set the DECEL SETTINGs becoz it seems fine to me. is in factory default..

and my
Throttle point is: Lo 44%, Hi 45%
NE POINTS: 1000, 1600, 2200, 3400, 4000, 5000, 6000, 7000
LO : 25%, 25%, 25% , 26% , 26% , 27% , 27%, 28%
HI : 31%, 31%, 31% , 32% , 32% , 33% , 33%, 33%

everything runs fin my A/F readings are 14-14.7 when cruising but chokes when boosting.

now my big confusion.. when I was setting the LO 1000rpm... I move it down toward the negative side say -10% my wideband will read very RICH.. (+11 and higher) ??? why?? i though negative readings is to make it lean and possitive readings to make it richer??

am I getting it wrong??

I never needed the Dec function either till I changed my bov around a little. As long as your having little to no compressor surge, don't worry about it. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" LOL.

As for you settings, it's my understanding that the 0 is the normal flow rate for injector's. So going in to - will lessen the amount of fuel and + will increase the amount.

I do know that once you reach the injector's max on the duty cycle, it will lean out despite the fact you think your adding fuel.

I'm not sure how much that helps and I know there's someone here who can answer it better.

Maybe PM structure240 b/c I've read that he's the SAFC wiz on here.

14.5:1 is insanely lean on a boosted motor. You need to be around high 11's to low 12's if your under 12-15 psi. Anyone who tells you to tune your car to 14.5:1 is an idiot...maybe if it was NA

Rick

GT35R
Innovative Turbo 42mm Progate
1600cc Injectors
MagnaFuel EFI 600 External Fuel Pump
One-off hand made clutch disc courtesy of rx7.com, Crower Rods, Wiseco 9:1 Pistons,5Bar MAP, Greddy V-SPL FMIC, Custom 3" Downpipe and hotpipe, HKS SSQV, GroundZero Motorsports Exhaust Manifold, Custom XcessiveMotorsports.com Intake Manifold, LinkPlus Full stand alone, JWT Flywheel and fuel rail.

The KA-T.ORG Forums are alive at http://www.ka-t.org/forums

Even on NA, max power is still made around 12.8:1 with proper timing to accompany it.

And do you guys having problems have widebands??? If you have a wideband, then tuning the SAFC should take 10 minutes max...

1992 Nissan 240sx KA24DE-Turbo: The "Showcar"
Stock internals
532whp/486ft.lbs-30psi
12.6@122.3mph-22psi
http://ka-t.org/cory_b.php

lol, a little bit longer. gotta mess with timing too.

5spd, no more auto ..... its a whole different car.

ka-t 17,000 miles and events, its not blown up yet.

well i trust your word, thx for clearing that up with me.

I guess I got lucky, as I drove it for a few hundred miles, and wailed on it a few times, with that 14.5:1 setting.

Well I had to adjust my settings again on the Decl.

THR% - 5.0%
NE1 - 1.9
NE2 - 3.5

As well my idle was rough so adjusted that back to around 900 rpms (ish) from the srcew on the motor. Now it jumps a little but I tracked that down to my bov being to lose. However untill I get my turbo I don't want to tighten properly as my current turbo is not making 7psi anymore. So to keep it alive on "life support" I am making sure there's almost NO compressor surge.

Seems to be working out ok and I can live with the idle problems untill I install the T28.

I will also change my Hi Throttle to 0 at my first NE Point and increase by 1% to NE Point #8. That should cover me just fine untill I hit the dyno.