Headlights won't pop up...

mick — 2009-10-14T15:58:09-08:00

Each motor has a knob you can turn to raise or lower the lights

Re: Headlights won't pop up... (Danrc30)

danielitogon — 2009-10-14T08:18:57-08:00

while yours wont pop up, mine wont go down. i was messing with my radio one day trying to get some tweeters connected when i saw a cable hanging there. it unfortunately touched metal and, well you know what happened. i traced that cable back to where its origins where, and to my surprise, it was an old alarm system the car used to have. if anyone has any suggestions as to how to get the lights down, or what to do with that alarm box thingy, i would appreciate it.

Re: (Sway5000)

Sway5000 — 2009-08-12T13:57:37-08:00

Ok when I checked the orange wire at h/l retract 4 I had the same 0V with the h/l off and 0.18V when the headlights are on. The Purple wire had 12V at it. I have no idea what or where to go from here. Please help!

Re: (dbrass240)

Sway5000 — 2009-08-12T12:22:28-08:00

Im currently following this thread as well. My headlights will flip up when the button is pushed or when the brights are flashed but not when I just turn the headlights on. They will not go down my pushing the switch either. I have done everything almost. I have power at the fuse and at the red-blue wire at the timer. I dont have power on the orange wire at the timer nor at terminal 26 at the switch. When I backprobe the orange wires at the diode one has like 0.18V and the other has zero. I have not had a chance to check at the h/l retract 4 relay because its raining outside and I dont want to get shocked. Whats next?

Re: (TOYROCKSTAR)

dbrass240 — 2009-08-04T18:56:21-08:00

its your headlight switch (the one that comes off the steering column)

I had the same problem and ordered a new one from advanced auto and it works fine now . . .

Re: (underground_army)

TOYROCKSTAR — 2009-08-04T13:16:26-08:00

ok on my 240sx the headlights won't go down i have to set them down manually, they do pop up. help anyone thanks

Re: (NISTECH)

cole d — 2009-06-26T09:52:29-08:00

Quote, originally posted by NISTECH raquo;

The difference in operation between the 3 modes of opening is the time control unit recieves a signal on terminal 3 when turning the headlights from parking lights to headloghts[the point at which the motors are suppose to operate to up] In the other 2 choices it does not send a signal to that terminal. BUT that circuit also uses its own fuse. so you need to look at the fuse too. Note though that fuse supposedly also powers your marker and tail lights. Still check to make sure the 3rd fuse up on the right side of your fuse box in the drivers kick panel has power on both sides when the switch is turned on. It is a 15 amp fuse. If it does go to the time control unit and do the same test on terminal #3 with the switch turned to the on position. The timer is located in the drivers kick panel, and its black not the colors I mentioned before. When you pull the kick panel trim off you will see 2 controllers one white and one black. the one further in is black, that is the unit your after.

Alright guys I'm at this step and I don't have power to the right side of the fuse located in the driver kick panel any suggestions ?????

Re: (underground_army)

cole d — 2009-06-25T11:43:56-08:00

Did any of you guys get your problems resolved my headlight won't pop up or down. They come on just fine though I've read through everything and tested almost everything with no luck. Please help

Re: (richiev8s13)

underground_army — 2009-01-17T11:39:17-08:00

having the same problem and still cant figure out anything i wish i can help you out but i cant

Re: (underground_army)

richiev8s13 — 2009-01-15T17:20:37-08:00

i have a smae proble but my lights dont go up they come down if i manualy crank them up and the diode pack has no burn marks on it and the low and high beams work but when i flick the high beams the head light dont go up either fuse is good also

Re: (Crazian609)

underground_army — 2008-11-21T18:26:25-08:00

ok here i go im stuck i tried to follow u guys and i did but everything is ok with my wires and relays and fuses also my lights wont go up or down they stay there since i tried to do sleepy eyes and i got a spark so help me out here

Crazian609 — 2008-10-28T22:08:39-08:00

First Off I would like to Thank Nistech for all the help... I got pretty good using the volt meter... BUT I STILL NEED HELP...

After doing everything like u said testing votage from the switch to the Relays and Diode pack.. Everything tested A OK.. Power to everything.. my problem is my RET MTR Fuse located in the Fuse box next to the bat. It pops every time I try to push the Headlight Master button. My headlights Do go up and down if I jump the two connectors (Ya i know thats stupid cause itll eventually burn other things) But i got axious to try.. So I know everything is working UP to that point...

My hypothesis is that my wire to that fuse is grounding out... The car is completly stock.. Never lowered so Tire rubbage is not possible to the harness on the Driverside fender...
Thing Is I dont know where that wire runs to
Were it connects to.
Were to start to test.
The wire color to the RET MTR 25a Fuse Is solid purple correct?

Can you tell me were this wire connects to? Instead of me trying to find were it is grounding out.. I plan on rewiring this Wire Hence... Ghetto Rig it cause tracing this thing is a effen pain... Thank You for your help.

EDITED: OK today I got more into it... It wasnt the purple wire that was grounding out... That wire Leads all the way to the purple on the master switch... That wire should get a constant 12volt current... What I did find was the Solid green wire on the master switch was the one grounding out... When I Pull the terminal outta the plug It no longer pops my RET MTR 25amp fuse... And it does Make my head lights go up... But not down.. I traced that Green wire back to the Fuse box were ur HL Down and HL relays are... it connects to the HL Down relay.... That wire even though its unpluged is getting a constant 12 volts.. and it looks partly melted..... So again...

Were does this Solid GREEN wire connect to? so I can route my own wire around that?

Modified by Crazian609 at 5:14 PM 10/30/2008

Re: (Andy65)

Andy65 — 2008-09-18T22:24:47-08:00

Fixed!!
I knew it had something to do with retractable relay# 4 in the box just behind the battery. After extensive testing and studying the FSM wiring diagrams, it turned out to be that purple wire had no power. I realized the relay needed power from the purple to operate, so I traced it back to the fusible link in the same box. These are hard to see if their broken, even if you pull them out. Anyways, after pulling out the link and creating my own (with wires), lights worked perfectly. I'll be going tomorrow and get myself a link to fit in here.
Whew!!

Re: (NISTECH)

Andy65 — 2008-09-17T19:34:30-08:00

OK Now I'm confused and need help please.
If anyone can offer some advice - I would really appreciate it. Here's my problem with the headlights: The headlights illuminate when I use the headlight switch but the lights don't pop up. I traced the power as was mentioned in this article - the orange wire going into #4 relay was at 10.44 when the lights were on but nothing was on the brown or purple wires coming out of the #4 relay. I thought it was a relay problem so I bought a new one from our local Nissan dealer and no luck. If I bypass the relay by pulling it out and placing a connection from orange to brown, both headlight motors work and the lights pop up then turn on nicely - but that's it. I have to manually take them down, then start tracing all over again. Is there something I'm missing - am I looking in the wrong place?
Please help if you can.

Re: (Danrc30)

Andy65 — 2008-09-16T18:48:24-08:00

Good Job!!
I walked through this tutorial and was able to follow the current to the #4 relay. Power was going in the orange but nothing going out the purple or brown. Before looking for the relay, I connected the orange to the brown (after pulling the relay) and the right headlight popped up. I'm going to get the relay tomorrow and hopefully all works.
Regards,
Andy

Re: (Andy65)

Andy65 — 2008-09-12T16:58:01-08:00

No worries - I was able to do it.
It was a key-pad kill switch. I just traced all the wires and started to remove all keypad wires. In the end, I was just left with Ignition wires which were easy to match up.

Works good now.
Andy

Re: (NISTECH)

Andy65 — 2008-09-11T20:21:51-08:00

Hi Nistech - if you're avail I was hoping you might help please!
I enabled a kill switch that no-one knows how to operate and now I can't start my car. I'd like to remove it completely and perhaps install another at a later date.

No-one remembers how to activate/deactivate this switch, so after buying this car last month, I've been driving it with the intention of one day removing this switch. I was following your procedure to get my headlamps working (great post by the way) and you prob guessed by now - my connect/disconnect of various connectors under the dash led to reactivating this switch.

If you're able to help (I would really appreciate it), just let me know what you would need pictures of.
Regards,
Andy

Re: (NISTECH)

sleepersilvia92 — 2008-06-23T15:58:32-08:00

is there any relays that would cause the gauge cluster to not light up

Re: (NISTECH)

jjanes123 — 2007-08-10T19:56:18-08:00

I saw this old post and I was wondering if you could help. I am having the same problem with the headlights but I am also not getting any signals to include hazards. could that same voltage regulator be the issue? I am going to replace the swith on the steering wheel but I don't believe thats the problem. Any help

Re: Headlights won't pop up... (s13sr20chris)

abross — 2007-07-01T17:40:18-08:00

Where did you find the diagram? And is there any way to get more diagrams on the internet?

NISTECH — 2005-09-30T04:42:34-08:00

I dont use messenger. I think what your looking for behind the radio is the Diode pack. It just looks like a connector with a blind plug in it. It may be wrapped in tape along the harness. Once you get a visual of the connector there are little symbols on the blind connector side of it. they look like little triangles whith a line going across the point of the triangle.

ma61_84 — 2005-09-30T01:29:36-08:00

yeah ive checked the grounds and replaced the socket, is the blue relay behind the radio stuffed?
is it the one with the plastic cover and have a
square shape? do i replace this relay? cheers.
ps my msn is 'sna1980@hotmail.com' if u could help me fix it i would really be grateful

NISTECH — 2005-09-29T18:24:02-08:00

Man the way you got it is the simplest way I can could give it to ya. The circuit is very complex , It has multiple functions and uses the time control unit to determine head light location and direction of travel. My first suggestion would be to correct the melted socket. Then check your grounds at the motor brakets , make sure they are clean and secure.

ma61_84 — 2005-09-29T07:10:18-08:00

nistech if ur out there i need ur help, ive got the same problem as Dan, if u could explain in easy to understand format i would really appreciate it thanks

ma61_84 — 2005-09-25T00:07:00-08:00

ive got this problem too only mine is much worse, the plastic connector that goes behind the headlight is melting at the connection. if i remove the second to last relay located near the air filter they pop up but then i have no power to the headlight. after taking it to an auto electrician they have stuffed it up even more now they dont pop up at all even with the relay removed. so frustrating. can anyone help?

NISTECH — 2005-07-26T06:38:16-08:00

LOL yeah and that trans is still sitting right where I set it in my garage the day I brought it home. As I look around in my garage I dont seem to have any silvia clips sittin around though.

Re: (Danrc30)

CaoBoY — 2005-07-26T00:40:08-08:00

Quote, originally posted by Danrc30 raquo;

How nice of you to offer... when should I expect delivery?

nistech can get you one, he owes me! lol i gave him my tranny for free, maybe he can spread the givingness and give you one! lol sorryi couldnt help, htats about all i can do. good luck though!

Re: (Danrc30)

NISTECH — 2005-07-25T17:52:55-08:00

Quote, originally posted by Danrc30 raquo;

I get .03A on the drivers side light purple wire with white stripe when lights are down.

The kick in the a$$ is after I reconnected the passenger side light, it started working again! It's gotta be a problem in that plug... right?

Yep or the wires in the immediate area.

Re: (CaoBoY)

Danrc30 — 2005-07-25T11:45:04-08:00

Quote, originally posted by CaoBoY raquo;

sounds like you need a silvia front conversion, that would solve ur problems!

How nice of you to offer... when should I expect delivery?

CaoBoY — 2005-07-25T11:24:14-08:00

sounds like you need a silvia front conversion, that would solve ur problems!

Re: (NISTECH)

Danrc30 — 2005-07-25T09:49:06-08:00

I get .03A on the drivers side light purple wire with white stripe when lights are down.

The kick in the a$$ is after I reconnected the passenger side light, it started working again! It's gotta be a problem in that plug... right?

NISTECH — 2005-07-23T22:24:44-08:00

Check the other I am curious to see if it is getting full power or only partial.

Re: (NISTECH)

Danrc30 — 2005-07-23T21:49:09-08:00

Quote, originally posted by NISTECH raquo;

on both of them? or just the one that wont go down?

I only checked the one that won't go down...

NISTECH — 2005-07-23T07:51:15-08:00

on both of them? or just the one that wont go down?

Re: (NISTECH)

Danrc30 — 2005-07-23T07:41:11-08:00

Quote, originally posted by NISTECH raquo;

ARGE!! I looked at the diagram and there are no connectors between the splice that feeds terminal 2 of the motors. So break out the volt meter and operate the lights to the down position. You should see 12 volts on terminal 2 [purple with white tracer wire. If you see voltage there it is your motor.

Finally got a chace to check it... I'm getting 5 volts on the purple wire with white tracer when the lights are in the down position.

NISTECH — 2005-07-20T19:46:23-08:00

NISTECH — 2005-07-20T19:08:28-08:00

Scratch that, looked at the wrong diagram sorry.Give me a bit, I think you have a connection problem somewhere, cause according to the circuit operation the only thing it could be is a motor. But I have to look at wiring diagrams to determine where the connectors all are.

NISTECH — 2005-07-20T19:01:42-08:00

ok in your factory air cleaner area there is a black relay box sitting down in there. Find retract relay number 2. turn your head lights off and if your passenger head lamp is still up give that relay a little thump and see if the light goes down. If it does you have a bad relay.

Re: passenger headlight won't go down again...

Danrc30 — 2005-07-20T06:42:25-08:00

Ok, the headlight stopped going down again. I cranked it down several times and it pops up when I hit the lights but it won't go down at all on its own. I even tried using another motor and the same thing happens. I think I've ruled out a faulty motor. What else could it be?

(I used to love pop up headlights... )

---Dan

Modified by Danrc30 at 9:01 PM 7/20/2005

NISTECH — 2005-06-27T20:50:46-08:00

I have neer ripped one open but its probably possible just becarful with it as there are small parts in it.

Re: (NISTECH)

Danrc30 — 2005-06-27T19:50:54-08:00

Can I open up the motor and repair the faulty connection?

NISTECH — 2005-06-27T17:26:57-08:00

Yep sounds like the motor has a poor connection internally since both lights use the same signal to go up or down.

Re: (NISTECH)

Danrc30 — 2005-06-27T13:06:12-08:00

I think my car either has a mind of its own, or it's possessed. Since it looks stupid with one headlight up, I just kept both up by using the switch on the dashboard. I just went out to try your method. I hit the switch and the drivers side went down right away, which was followed shortly by the passenger side. So now it's an intermittent problem. Does this mean the motor is on its way out?

NISTECH — 2005-06-27T12:48:30-08:00

pull the cap off the motor and manually crank it down. Make sure your lights and retract switchs are in the down position when you do it. If you start cranking it and it takes off on you and goes down. retry the switches and see if it starts functioning again. It may be the contacts in the motor are bad. If thats it swap the motor from the other car to this one.

Re: (brokeAs240sx)

Danrc30 — 2005-06-27T12:21:40-08:00

I haven't set it down manually... No way am I rewiring this car... that's a recipe for disaster! I't gotta be something stupid like another small part or relay that went bad.

---hoping nistech will once again come to the rescue...

Re: (Danrc30)

onosqv — 2005-06-27T12:15:21-08:00

Maybe your car just likes winking .

You're going to have to go through all that wiring test stuff Nistech taught you, haha.

So your passenger light will go up? but not down (i.e. you set it down manually, then it will pop up correctly)?

By now, you might as well rerun your own wires to the damn headlights, .

**EDIT: yea, Nistech, can't find the switches, o well .

Re: (NISTECH)

Danrc30 — 2005-06-27T11:48:04-08:00

Ok, now I'm REALLY ANNOYED!!! The right (passenger) headlight stopped going down again! (I guess you could say it's "stuck up" ) I already replaced the grey relay on the passenger side under the hood. The drivers side goes up and down as it should when the switch is turned on. What could be causing this now?!?!?!

Re: (brokeAs240sx)

NISTECH — 2005-06-15T22:56:37-08:00

Quote, originally posted by brokeAs240sx raquo;

Do you need just the switch not the bezel? I may have the switch (bezel is cracked) - - I'm so excited I'm gonna pull my car apart tonite... maybe even @ lunch - finally, lights that go up correctly, hehheehhehehehehe. Been looking for this answer for MONTHS!

Yep just the switches the bezel on mine is fine.

Re: (Danrc30)

onosqv — 2005-06-15T20:21:19-08:00

AND FIXED!!!!!! hoo hoo hoo.

And now to my other back feeding/power issues...

Re: (brokeAs240sx)

Danrc30 — 2005-06-15T19:40:33-08:00

I'm not positive on all of the wire colors, but if you remove the semi-clear cap on the "blue-thingy" you'll see a tiny circuitboard. One of the lines on mine was burnt out. Take a look at that and if you see a burnt spot, you know yours is bad.

Re: (Danrc30)

onosqv — 2005-06-15T13:06:29-08:00

Is it a blue plug w/ 6 wires? orange, orange w/ black tracer, 2 red ones, 1 pink one, 1 yellow one?

And connected to it should be a blue relay thing-a-ma-bobber?

The orange orange w/ black tracer should be jumpered together right? I get power on one and not the other.

If so, I found my problem... had to remove that for the s13 digital climate control install.

Re: (brokeAs240sx)

Danrc30 — 2005-06-15T11:05:59-08:00

If you mean the part I had to replace, a pic won't help unfortunately. This is because it's hidden under either a semi-clear plastic sheathing, or under black electrical tape. In both cars, the part was taped to another part of the wiring harness under and intertwined with the climate control unit's wiring harness. If you really dig deep back there, you should find it. When you uncover it, you'll see it's blue with a clear cap on the end and a bunch of arrows on it just like nissan mechanic said.

Hope that helps. Let me know if you find it...

Re: (NISTECH)

onosqv — 2005-06-15T11:04:46-08:00

Quote, originally posted by NISTECH raquo;

Drivers power window master switch?

Re: (Danrc30)

onosqv — 2005-06-15T10:59:33-08:00

Quote, originally posted by Danrc30 raquo;

YES! THAT WAS IT!!! IT WORKS... IT WORKS!!!!!!!! HAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!! WOOOOHOOOO!!!!! YOU DA BOMB!!!!

Now, I gotta ask you this... at what point did you know that was my problem? Did I have to tear all of those other things apart to figure it out, or could we have switched that in the beginning to see if that was the problem?

Can you take a pic of that bad boy? I'm having your exact same problem was trying to follow your steps.

NISTECH — 2005-06-14T05:02:12-08:00

Nah dont sweat it man, mine works, I am just missing the black cap over the passenger switch. Its really not that big a deal. I appreciate it though.

Re: (NISTECH)

Danrc30 — 2005-06-13T21:43:10-08:00

Sorry, car came with manual windows... it was a bottom line car. I just got it for a 5-speed tranny swap from the auto that came in mine.

I'll see if I can find you one though...

NISTECH — 2005-06-13T21:30:44-08:00

Drivers power window master switch?

Re: (NISTECH)

Danrc30 — 2005-06-13T21:26:17-08:00

Ah... I see... Well, I'm extremely happy now that they work properly. Thanks so much for the help. If you need any parts, I'll see if I can hook you up. I still have some stuff left... white 93 hatchback...

NISTECH — 2005-06-13T21:20:43-08:00

That part is there to prevent back feed voltage when another feed is put into that wire. It acts as a gate only allowing voltage to flow one way. back in the 90's the engineers had a hard on for those things, they are all over the car. They still use them today but far fewer of them.

Re: (NISTECH)

Danrc30 — 2005-06-13T21:16:57-08:00

Ok, I know how to use a meter and find voltages and stuff, but I have a hard time reading wiring diagrams. I just haven't developed an aptitude for it yet and I get lost. I think I need someone to show me in person what to look for and how to troubleshoot. I did figure out on my own the other day that the retract relay was bad. I used the diagram and solved the problem... I'm just not very confident in this area.

I took that piece apart and I saw where it burnt out on the lil circuit board. Lil piece of crap... I have no idea why it's there and why they put it where they did. Often Nissan engineering makes no sense.

I now see exactly what you were doing, but I wouldn't have been able to follow that myself by using the book mainly because I had no idea where those parts were that we were testing...