Vehicle Lacking Power

Re: (Ron Burgundy)

Pwnin O'Brien — 2009-07-04T07:37:55-08:00

Here's the service manual methods for resetting the ECU, accelerator pedal released position learning, throttle valve closed position learning, and idle air volume learning. I don't think you need the throttle valve close position learning since your throttle uses a linkage cable and not by wire, but I threw it in here anyway for anybody else who may need it. Timing is somewhat critical on the following steps, I recommend using the one-one thousand method of counting. If you do not time the idle air volume learning properly, you may get the MIL and you will have to reset the ECU and start over.

----RESET ECU (easier method below, I recommend it over this method)----

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch �ON� and wait 3 seconds.

2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.

2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.

3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.

4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking).

5. Wait about 10 seconds.

6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.

7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).

8. Turn ignition switch to �OFF� position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.

If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

---- EASY METHOD ----

1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.

2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.

3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal

4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal

5. Count to 10, depress pedal

6. Count to 10, release pedal.

7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!

---- Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning ----

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.

2. Turn ignition switch �ON� and wait at least 2 seconds.

3. Turn ignition switch �OFF� wait at least 10 seconds.

4. Turn ignition switch �ON� and wait at least 2 seconds

5. Turn ignition switch �OFF� wait at least 10 seconds.

---- Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning ----

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.

2. Turn ignition switch �ON�.

3. Turn ignition switch �OFF� wait at least 10 seconds.

Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

---- Idle Air Volume Learning ----

NOTE:
Before perform �Idle Air Volume Learning�, make sure that �Accel-
erator Pedal Released Position Learning� and �Throttle Valve
Closed Position Learning� are completed.
If not, perform �Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning�,
EC-81 and �Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning�, EC-81.

1. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.

2. Check that all items listed under the topic �PREPARATION� (previously mentioned) are in good order.

3. Turn ignition switch �OFF� and wait at least 10 seconds.

4. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch �ON� and wait 3 seconds.

5. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.

1) Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
2) Fully release the accelerator pedal.

6. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turns ON.

7. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL turned ON.

8. Start engine and let it idle.

9. Wait 20 seconds.

10. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

11. If idle speed and ignition timing are not within the specification (750rpms +/-50rpm), �Idle Air Volume Learning� will not be carried out successfully.

Let me know if this works for you!

Re: (Pwnin O'Brien)

Ron Burgundy — 2009-07-04T04:14:20-08:00

Boom - changed fuel filter - car cranks at propper speed and starts! Still plan on doing a bit more preventive maint though.

So how do you reset the ECU and relearn the pedal position and idle air volume? I've never heard I need to do this.

Thanks again!

Pwnin O'Brien — 2009-07-03T07:29:32-08:00

Oh yeah, I didn't even think about the fuel filter, this does sound like a textbook fuel filter issue.

Re: Vehicle Lacking Power (Ron Burgundy)

Densetsu — 2009-07-02T23:14:37-08:00

Three words: air, fuel, spark.

One or more of those things go bad, then you lose performance and eventually it won't start at all. Seems to be what you're experiencing. How's the air and fuel filters?

Oh, and for your earlier question, most of the important dash lights should flash on briefly when you turn the key to the 'on' position. A lot of them will stay lit if you leave the key in the on position without starting the engine.

Re: Vehicle Lacking Power (Adnan)

Ron Burgundy — 2009-07-02T23:02:23-08:00

Thanks for the info guys.

I'll keep you updated.

Re: Vehicle Lacking Power (fukinitupagain)

Adnan — 2009-07-02T21:53:46-08:00

i highly doubt its the alternator,I dont see how it could affect the vehicle's performance or cause any vibrations.
I'd say check your fuel lines,fuel filter ignition coils....im guessing its a fuel/combustion related problem if not wiring

good luck!

Re: Vehicle Lacking Power (Ron Burgundy)

fukinitupagain — 2009-07-02T21:47:50-08:00

Quote, originally posted by Ron Burgundy raquo;

Update - The cars not starting at all now.

I turn the key and it makes the "car starting sound" but its really slow and pretty much sounds like death/dying.

Battery? Anything?

Its not the starter then. Definetetly the alt or battery or distributor (I might put money on the alt.)

Pwnin O'Brien — 2009-07-02T21:05:55-08:00

Obviously the problem is getting progressively worse with each drive. I would definitely check the alternator and battery. The easiest way would be with a multimeter, the battery voltage (with the car off) will be between 12V-14V. With the car on, the voltage should jump above 14V if the alternator is functioning properly. Even with a faulty alternator, you may still get a slight charge, but not enough to power the running vehicle. Also, the battery may not seem dead at first (prior to testing) because the cars electronics work, but they require far less current than the starter. If you do not have a multimeter and can get the car running, I would try an Advance Auto or Pep Boys or Autozone, somewhere that tests those for free.

I would also check the distributor and wires to ensure proper connections and make sure nothing has come loose and make sure there is no particulate between the plugs and the spark plug boots. You should always spray the boots with some di-electric grease to ensure a secure connection.

I'm not super familiar with the 99.5 model, but when you cleaned the throttle body did you reset the ECU and relearn the pedal position and idle air volume? I don't know if this was necessary for the 99.5 model, but this is always necessary after cleaning/replacement of the MAF sensor, cleaning of the throttle body, and after putting in an aftermarket intake.

Just my $.02

Re: Vehicle Lacking Power (Ron Burgundy)

Ron Burgundy — 2009-07-02T20:51:00-08:00

Oh and Lars,

I will take you up on that offer eventually. I'll hit you up when i'm ready to finish that. Thanks a lot I appreciate it.

Re: Vehicle Lacking Power (fukinitupagain)

Ron Burgundy — 2009-07-02T20:49:00-08:00

Update - The cars not starting at all now.

I turn the key and it makes the "car starting sound" but its really slow and pretty much sounds like death/dying.

Battery? Anything?

Re: Vehicle Lacking Power (fukinitupagain)

fukinitupagain — 2009-07-02T16:26:35-08:00

The loss of power might be something as simple as all of the spark plugs not firing.

Re: Vehicle Lacking Power (Ron Burgundy)

fukinitupagain — 2009-07-02T16:25:40-08:00

Quote, originally posted by Ron Burgundy raquo;

Back on topic, I read about a vibration problem that could come from the driveshaft in the good ol' repair manual. This sound reasonable? Also another reason to possible rule out suspension is that the vibration happens when at idle as well. Doesn't sound suspesion related right?

No its probably not the suspension, but doesn't sound like the driveshaft either. If you think that it is the driveshaft crawl under it check to see if anything is loose (if you do this make sure you do it after your Pathy has been sitting for a while so you don't burn yourself)

I still think it sounds like the distrbuter but I forgot about the o2 sensors but I'm like you if it was not workiong properly, or the MAF for that matter, would throw codes. Oh course you think, Ron, that those bulbs might be out (I highly doubt that though).

Re: Vehicle Lacking Power (Ron Burgundy)

Lars — 2009-07-02T11:27:09-08:00

Hey Ron, I live in Fullerton and have the spark plug tool if you want to drop by and use it, shoot me an email.

Re: Vehicle Lacking Power (Ron Burgundy)

Adnan — 2009-07-01T23:04:06-08:00

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wbhVuZSde_A
i hope this vid helps about the pcv valve location,i havent spent much time under the hood of an R50 lol

also about the o2 sensors they're located along the exhaust once again not certain about the specific locations on our trucks...but then again if they o2 sensors are bad it should be throwing a code

Re: Vehicle Lacking Power (Adnan)

Ron Burgundy — 2009-07-01T22:53:09-08:00

pcv valves and o2 sensors - where am I looking and what am I looking for?

distributor and maf - look good

air filter is slightly dirty, could probably use a little cleaning but nothing major.
throttle body just cleaned

Re: Vehicle Lacking Power (Ron Burgundy)

Adnan — 2009-07-01T22:41:58-08:00

doesnt sound like a suspension or transmission problem to me
check your pcv valves,distributor and maybe maf and o2 sensors
when was the last time you checked your air filter?
also check your throttle body and surrounding areas if its dirty it could hint what may be causing the sluggish performance

Re: Vehicle Lacking Power (fukinitupagain)

Ron Burgundy — 2009-07-01T22:01:59-08:00

So while were on the topic of check engine lights, I pulled out my instrument cluster tonight, and am starting to wonder how many bulbs are out...

Very quickly off topic, is there a way to light 'em all up so I know whats working and whats not? For example, the check engine light will come on when something is wrong, well how the hell am I supposed to know if something is wrong if the bulb is out all together! Any way?

You guys are the s***. Thanks

Re: Vehicle Lacking Power (Ron Burgundy)

fukinitupagain — 2009-07-01T19:40:20-08:00

Quote, originally posted by Ron Burgundy raquo;

My check engine light would have to be on in order to have any "codes" correct?

Correct. No SES light then your good, but also the codes sometimes only come on when something completely fails with R50's (I don't know much about other Nissan models) not when its starting to go bad (with sh*t like starters alt. a code won't flip)

Quote, originally posted by Ron Burgundy raquo;

How would I know if the alternator is in good condition? I'm going to replace the rotor, as far as the distributor - visually everything looks ok but anything I should look for? And no... no water.

Unless you are familar with these engines your best bet is to go to mechanic you trust have them run tests to see if they are working properly

Quote, originally posted by Ron Burgundy raquo;

From what I described to you think it could be something suspension related? Idk, it just feels like something electrical or from under the hood. BUT i have no idea. I am also completely clueless when it comes to under the car/suspension related issues. You'd have to talk me through it like a third grader in order for me to answer.

If its not suspension or tranny related then I wouldn't be too sure as to what it could be. I used to have an old Bronco that I wheeled the hell out of broke a couple of motor mounts on different occassions so the engine literally jumped around would sometimes pull what little electrical parts that were there out while going around corners or what not (cause the engine would lean to one side) would kill the engine but I've never heard of that with 4x4 Nissans. Plus I doubt that you wheel it that hard if you wheel it at all, correct.

Re: Vehicle Lacking Power (fukinitupagain)

Ron Burgundy — 2009-06-30T20:15:02-08:00

Quote, originally posted by Qxxx4 raquo;

how is your transmission? diffs? have you maintained those fluids?

I bought it used (90,000mi) so I couldn't tell you if the maintenance has been performed before. But I plan on draining/filling these sometime this week - I'll let you know if that does anything. By the way, from what I've read these don't seem like very difficult processes. Am I right?

Quote, originally posted by fukinitupagain raquo;

Ron, are you throwing any codes? Hows your alt. as well (this is for the R50 dying issue)? This could very well be a distributor issue as well. Have you had a good amount of water in the engine compartment recently??

Forgive me, I'm still learning. My check engine light would have to be on in order to have any "codes" correct? If so, then no the light isn't on. How would I know if the alternator is in good condition? I'm going to replace the rotor, as far as the distributor - visually everything looks ok but anything I should look for? And no... no water.

Quote, originally posted by fukinitupagain raquo;

As far as vibration goes that could very well be a suspension issue: how are your bushings in th rear (since you didn't say where the vibration is coming from I'm gonna throw a couple of options our way), how are your front stuts/stut tower mounts is you car in alignment (I know not really a suspesion issue but close enough)?

Thanks a lot guys. Appreciate it.

Re: Vehicle Lacking Power (Ron Burgundy)

fukinitupagain — 2009-06-30T19:57:43-08:00

Re: Vehicle Lacking Power (Ron Burgundy)

Qxxx4 — 2009-06-30T19:49:42-08:00

i used NGK iridiums too the number six was extremely difficult, i ended up going on kijiji (like craigslist) and putting a want ad to have someone lend it to me....i found someone nice enough and it was a breeze to change it then.

I was also told not to gap them but I did for good measure, they were pretty off

It doesnt sound like you have a misfire, how is your transmission? diffs? have you maintained those fluids? as for your engine dying im

Vehicle Lacking Power

Ron Burgundy — 2009-06-30T19:14:43-08:00

I've recently felt a major loss in performance of my Pathfinder. I was nearly redlineing to get up a hill the other day and for the very first time since i've had the vehicle - it died on me! The car was still on and the engine was still rotating but RPMs dropped to 0 and pressing on the gas pedal turned the engine but MPH just slowly started dropping.

I've also been having a a vibration problem for about a month now. When I press on the gas pedal (not all the time but sometimes) I feel a strong vibration, it also happens when coming to a stop.

I honestly have no idea what it is or where to start. I'll take any suggestions you guys have.

Just some background info - I recently did the spark plugs myself (all but #6. I dont have the tool and cant even take the boot off, so I figured i'd leave it to a pro) NGK iridiums - I was told not to gap them because of the platinum tip but it was farely close in the first place, new spark plug wires, and the entire A/C system was recently worked on by a mechanic.

Thanks in advance!