I think I would do black vinyl/seudo leather as well. Padded or not, if not, you'll just need to sand/finish the wood really well so it doesn't show any imperfections. If you leave it wood and it doesn't match it will stand out like a sore thumb.

The OEM switches may be difficult to mount in that board. Do you have a plan for that? ]]> qsiguy 2009-04-09T17:02:27-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4652077#4652077 I would cover it in padded simulated black leather and call it done. Jesda 2009-04-09T10:22:14-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4649613#4649613 Little more progress made today.. Made the shifter surround, still have to cut the holes for the window switches and clean up around the shifter. I cant really do too much because i dont have my dremel with me, ill get to that this weekend... All I used was a piece of cedar paneling i had left over from when new paneling went up in my closet... Im going to put some veneer or something along those lines to match the factory color scheme... then varnish it so it looks factory.. still, turned out really good. Fits really good, and when its done ill post more in-depth pics but for now...

All I used was a piece of cedar paneling i had left over from when new paneling went up in my closet... Im going to put some veneer or something along those lines to match the factory color scheme... then varnish it so it looks factory..

still, turned out really good. Fits really good, and when its done ill post more in-depth pics but for now...

]]> elwesso 2009-04-08T13:45:25-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4648599#4648599 http://www.q45.org/uploads2/Skullville/You should get a skull shifter! It looked great in the Seville. Your Q is pure evil goodness now.
http://www.q45.org/uploads2/Skullville/

You should get a skull shifter! It looked great in the Seville. Your Q is pure evil goodness now. ]]> Jesda 2009-04-08T08:02:48-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4648568#4648568 sweet! cool work Wes! your Q sounds pretty wicked ]]> NSR_G50 2009-04-08T07:44:23-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4648123#4648123 Quote, originally posted by elwesso I think the second option would look more factory, and also I could easily install gauges up at the top of the shifter later (another reason to go that route).. Coolant temp gauge and oil pressure would be cool.Ooh, I really like that idea. I'd love to have accurate and cleanly installed oil pressure and coolant temp gauges. Quote, originally posted by elwesso raquo;I think the second option would look more factory, and also I could easily install gauges up at the top of the shifter later (another reason to go that route).. Coolant temp gauge and oil pressure would be cool.

Ooh, I really like that idea. I'd love to have accurate and cleanly installed oil pressure and coolant temp gauges. ]]> MinisterofDOOM 2009-04-08T00:06:08-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4647636#4647636 Option #2...and leave room for your boost gauge ]]> qsiguy 2009-04-07T20:22:19-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4647117#4647117 Definitely option 2. Oh and by the way...YOU ARE PURE PSYCHO MR. STINSON!But that's cool, because you use your powers for good. Or for evil, depending on how ya look at it.Anyway, great job on the project.Danisiti 1 YOU ARE PURE PSYCHO MR. STINSON!

But that's cool, because you use your powers for good.

Or for evil, depending on how ya look at it.

Anyway, great job on the project.

Danisiti 1
]]> TgduMg 2009-04-07T17:43:19-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4646942#4646942 The thing is the first one you CANT incorporate the orignial switches into and make it look right, because the right side is too short. elwesso 2009-04-07T16:36:14-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4646834#4646834 I meant the first one would be hard to incorporate the original switches into.And I don't see the reason for a second yet more accurate coolant temp gauge, it wouldn't look right in my opinion.Do you still use the tranny cooler for your M/TI would like some day: Oil pressure and temperature, transmission gauges. And I don't see the reason for a second yet more accurate coolant temp gauge, it wouldn't look right in my opinion.

Do you still use the tranny cooler for your M/T?

I would like some day: Oil pressure and temperature, transmission gauges. ]]> Paul Wall 2009-04-07T15:50:26-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4646829#4646829 Wes, box up that flexplate for shipping!!! I will call you tomorrow to work out the details!!!! qship96 2009-04-07T15:49:54-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4646804#4646804 I actually didnt end up extending the shifter I ended up using a different shift knob... With a short shifter you have to use a slightly different one..On the stock shift knob the shift rod actually goes inside the knob, which makes it sit way low. Using a different shift knob allows the shift knob to sit right on top of it.You could probably bend the shifter over if you wanted to, but I really dont see a reason to. I really dont have an issue where it is.. Maybe someday i'll do it, but not right now.I really dont think either surround is going to be difficult to make, i dont see either one being harder to make than the other, which is why I asked for an opinion... I think the second option would look more factory, and also I could easily install gauges up at the top of the shifter later (another reason to go that route).. Coolant temp gauge and oil pressure would be cool. On the stock shift knob the shift rod actually goes inside the knob, which makes it sit way low. Using a different shift knob allows the shift knob to sit right on top of it.

You could probably bend the shifter over if you wanted to, but I really dont see a reason to. I really dont have an issue where it is.. Maybe someday i'll do it, but not right now.

I really dont think either surround is going to be difficult to make, i dont see either one being harder to make than the other, which is why I asked for an opinion... I think the second option would look more factory, and also I could easily install gauges up at the top of the shifter later (another reason to go that route).. Coolant temp gauge and oil pressure would be cool. ]]> elwesso 2009-04-07T15:42:50-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4646534#4646534 Wes, my vote goes for Option 2! I remember you saying you extended the z shifter brackets about 4". Is it possible to extend it to the necessary length and move the assembly closer to the driver's side and move the assembly closer to the driver's side? ]]> thejapino 2009-04-07T14:16:10-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4646416#4646416 I like the first one, but I would still prefer them to be like they originally came. But the second option is defiantly easier to do.I would like to see center console window control with the window lock relocated to the top or bottom of the shifter surround. I would like to see center console window control with the window lock relocated to the top or bottom of the shifter surround. ]]> Paul Wall 2009-04-07T13:39:47-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4645596#4645596 I definitely prefer the 2nd option. I hate how the window switches are scattered so far apart on the stock shifter surround. Putting them all together like that is perfect. MinisterofDOOM 2009-04-07T08:18:14-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4645460#4645460 Ok I need your guys' opinion..Ive mocked up 2 shifter surrounds using a manilla folder. Please note my cutting skills suck and all the edges would be rounded... I also didnt install the boot because i need a new one anyway.The major problem is that the shifter is very biased toward the passenger side for whatever reason... Option 1- Make the hole symmetrical about it (and only use the right side of the hole) and put 3 of the door window switches at the top of the console...Option 2... Use the right hand of the bezel for the shifter and the other side put the factory 94 Q window switches in place next to each other..Im kinda leaning toward the second option the more I think about it.. Ive mocked up 2 shifter surrounds using a manilla folder. Please note my cutting skills suck and all the edges would be rounded... I also didnt install the boot because i need a new one anyway.

The major problem is that the shifter is very biased toward the passenger side for whatever reason...

Option 1- Make the hole symmetrical about it (and only use the right side of the hole) and put 3 of the door window switches at the top of the console...

Option 2... Use the right hand of the bezel for the shifter and the other side put the factory 94 Q window switches in place next to each other..

Im kinda leaning toward the second option the more I think about it.. ]]> elwesso 2009-04-07T07:22:42-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4643911#4643911 I have the shifter issue worked out (its gonna be SLICK when its done) and the trim piece should be done this weekend... ]]> elwesso 2009-04-06T17:38:29-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4642007#4642007 does anyone know where to obtain a 4.08 rear let me know if anyone has been done to adapt the z32's to a q. jmankill 2009-04-06T02:29:08-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4596648#4596648 El Wesson oil is a drifter........from town to town !If he really wants his car to rip he will get that 4.08 gear in that car......he is such a pansy when it comes to that rear gear! If he really wants his car to rip he will get that 4.08 gear in that car......he is such a pansy when it comes to that rear gear! ]]> Johnny Rocket 2009-03-22T19:30:15-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4595968#4595968 Quote, originally posted by Carl H from my own experience with a 5spd vh45 the stock rear end SUCKS for low speed work...the car was incredibly hard to slide because the final drive (3.52 out of the q45) caused it to fall in and out of the power band.to me a 4.08 final would do wonders for the car and may be the next mod if i keep my s13 coupe (which has the vh in it). i don't think he put the tranny in there to dorito. Just because he is a nissan doesn't mean she he is a drifter Quote, originally posted by Carl H raquo;from my own experience with a 5spd vh45 the stock rear end SUCKS for low speed work...the car was incredibly hard to slide because the final drive (3.52 out of the q45) caused it to fall in and out of the power band.
to me a 4.08 final would do wonders for the car and may be the next mod if i keep my s13 coupe (which has the vh in it). i don't think he put the tranny in there to dorito. Just because he is a nissan doesn't mean she he is a drifter ]]> Ludeaem 2009-03-22T15:11:28-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4595911#4595911 from my own experience with a 5spd vh45 the stock rear end SUCKS for low speed work...the car was incredibly hard to slide because the final drive (3.52 out of the q45) caused it to fall in and out of the power band.to me a 4.08 final would do wonders for the car and may be the next mod if i keep my s13 coupe (which has the vh in it). to me a 4.08 final would do wonders for the car and may be the next mod if i keep my s13 coupe (which has the vh in it). ]]> Carl H 2009-03-22T14:39:25-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4590210#4590210 Quote, originally posted by AZhitman May I He's gonna your Q! Quote, originally posted by AZhitman raquo;

May I?

He's gonna your Q! ]]> Jesda 2009-03-20T10:57:42-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4590057#4590057 No appologies` but the Q has to be the most underated car I know. Ugly Try Unique ! ! ]]> MR. Q 2009-03-20T10:13:38-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4587218#4587218 Update... I just unplugged the TCU and now the transmission malfunction light is off, and also the cruise works now.. Now I just need to get the automatic drive positioner to work and also the memory seats. For a rainy day... Now I just need to get the automatic drive positioner to work and also the memory seats. For a rainy day... ]]> elwesso 2009-03-19T13:05:27-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4587112#4587112 Quote, originally posted by elwesso dude, just wait till carlisle and the tire destruction ensues.Take spares with youtiresclutchesetc Quote, originally posted by elwesso raquo;dude, just wait till carlisle and the tire destruction ensues.

Take spares with you
tires
clutches
etc ]]> Rex 2009-03-19T12:21:48-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4587071#4587071 Actually i just need to find a machinist to do another run, im definitely interested in doing another run.. ]]> elwesso 2009-03-19T12:11:31-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4587005#4587005 Quote, originally posted by elwesso Well if thats the case, wouldnt simply removing the TCU do the same thingProbably, I'm just not sure if removal of the TCU will have other ramifications. There may be a few other systems that are receiving some signals from it like the ECU. Quote, originally posted by elwesso raquo;Well if thats the case, wouldnt simply removing the TCU do the same thing?

Probably, I'm just not sure if removal of the TCU will have other ramifications. There may be a few other systems that are receiving some signals from it like the ECU. ]]> qsiguy 2009-03-19T11:57:05-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4586860#4586860 Quote, originally posted by elwesso dude, just wait till carlisle and the tire destruction ensues.May I Quote, originally posted by elwesso raquo;dude, just wait till carlisle and the tire destruction ensues.

May I?

]]> AZhitman 2009-03-19T11:18:33-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4586857#4586857 Ah, tire destruction.Please, PLEASE shoot vids of said tire destruction.So when are you gonna produce finished plates for the rest of us Learning that you used the AT crossmember and a lengthened Q45 driveshaft could be used has shortened my parts-checklist! All I need is a starter and clutch kit! Oh, and of course, an adapter plate!!! Please, PLEASE shoot vids of said tire destruction.

So when are you gonna produce finished plates for the rest of us? Learning that you used the AT crossmember and a lengthened Q45 driveshaft could be used has shortened my parts-checklist! All I need is a starter and clutch kit! Oh, and of course, an adapter plate!!! ]]> thejapino 2009-03-19T11:17:56-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4586797#4586797 dude, just wait till carlisle and the tire destruction ensues. elwesso 2009-03-19T11:03:12-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4586172#4586172 I can't wait 'til I have time to compile this into a big article....Wes, I'm sitting here reminiscing about the first time I met you... dorky 16-year-old with more guts and balls than money.I knew you'd do something awesome like this, but never had any clue you'd be pioneering something THIS big for the community.*sniff* I'm so damn proud... *sniff* Wes, I'm sitting here reminiscing about the first time I met you... dorky 16-year-old with more guts and balls than money.

I knew you'd do something awesome like this, but never had any clue you'd be pioneering something THIS big for the community.

*sniff* I'm so damn proud... *sniff* ]]> AZhitman 2009-03-19T07:25:50-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4586021#4586021 Quote, originally posted by qsiguy Cutting the wire from terminal #3 on the TCU will disable the fault indicator. It's a light green/black wire. Snip it and be done with it. If you want further validation that it's ok to do, JWT disconnects this circuit inside the TCU when they mod them.That's a decent block diagram Paul but the diagrams on page AT-38 and AT-39 are a little more complete and show wire colors.Well if thats the case, wouldnt simply removing the TCU do the same thingAndy, basically everything for the 97+ car would need to be different. You'd need to make your own VH41 adapter plate (bolt pattern is different), im sure the pedal arrangement and shifter position might be similar, but its a shot in the dark.. You're also going to have a TON more issues (so much that it may not even make it worth it) with the ECU being OBDII.. you cant fall back on the info for people with OBDII cars with MT's offered in them because all they do is wire things up and switch the ECU's to a MT version.. cant do that on a Y33 because never offered it and also you cant reprogram the ECU at all.In my case, the hard part was the mechanics about it.. In the Y33 case, the electronics are almost going to be insurmountable. Youll notice on picture (7) that im using the stock AT crossmember with those brackets to adapt it.. So, im using the stock AT tranny mount (insulator) that you speak of... Quote, originally posted by qsiguy raquo;Cutting the wire from terminal #3 on the TCU will disable the fault indicator. It's a light green/black wire. Snip it and be done with it. If you want further validation that it's ok to do, JWT disconnects this circuit inside the TCU when they mod them.

That's a decent block diagram Paul but the diagrams on page AT-38 and AT-39 are a little more complete and show wire colors.

Well if thats the case, wouldnt simply removing the TCU do the same thing?

Andy, basically everything for the 97+ car would need to be different. You'd need to make your own VH41 adapter plate (bolt pattern is different), im sure the pedal arrangement and shifter position might be similar, but its a shot in the dark.. You're also going to have a TON more issues (so much that it may not even make it worth it?) with the ECU being OBDII.. you cant fall back on the info for people with OBDII cars with MT's offered in them because all they do is wire things up and switch the ECU's to a MT version.. cant do that on a Y33 because never offered it and also you cant reprogram the ECU at all.

In my case, the hard part was the mechanics about it.. In the Y33 case, the electronics are almost going to be insurmountable.

Youll notice on picture (7?) that im using the stock AT crossmember with those brackets to adapt it.. So, im using the stock AT tranny mount (insulator) that you speak of...

]]> elwesso 2009-03-19T05:55:46-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4585993#4585993 Quote, originally posted by elwesso I think with the U joints if you have an angle and the U joints move around a little more they will tend to avoid getting "notchy".I have a little vibration I need to get rid of, i think shimming the carrier bearing should take care of it.I would rec this. Vibes are a huge problem on modified Mustangs and most of the time is a change in the pinion angles (lowered cars). It doesn't seem to matter how big the difference is but rather that the angle between the tranny tailshaft and diff is 90 degrees. Another thing you might try (if you haven't already) is to add the stock auto tranny vibration dampner. The two biggest improvements I made to reduce driveline vibes on my 91 LX 5.0 were adding power seats (no mechanical connection between seat frame and body) and adding a tranny dampner from a Mazda Millenia to the rear of the tranny which consisted of a huge hunk of metal that was heavy as hell and a rubber cube. Trust me on this though-you will want to get rid of that vibe b/c it might drive you crazy-kind of like a imbalanced tire. Also, what changes would need to be made to adapt this to a 97+ car... Quote, originally posted by elwesso raquo;I think with the U joints if you have an angle and the U joints move around a little more they will tend to avoid getting "notchy".

I have a little vibration I need to get rid of, i think shimming the carrier bearing should take care of it.

I would rec this.

Vibes are a huge problem on modified Mustangs and most of the time is a change in the pinion angles (lowered cars). It doesn't seem to matter how big the difference is but rather that the angle between the tranny tailshaft and diff is 90 degrees.

Another thing you might try (if you haven't already) is to add the stock auto tranny vibration dampner. The two biggest improvements I made to reduce driveline vibes on my 91 LX 5.0 were adding power seats (no mechanical connection between seat frame and body) and adding a tranny dampner from a Mazda Millenia to the rear of the tranny which consisted of a huge hunk of metal that was heavy as hell and a rubber cube.

Trust me on this though-you will want to get rid of that vibe b/c it might drive you crazy-kind of like a imbalanced tire.

Also, what changes would need to be made to adapt this to a 97+ car... ]]> bullittandy 2009-03-19T05:40:20-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4585684#4585684 I got lazy . But I tried to tell Wes too that JWT cuts that otherwise the TCU would be giving errors all the time because they reprogramed them. . But I tried to tell Wes too that JWT cuts that otherwise the TCU would be giving errors all the time because they reprogramed them. ]]> Paul Wall 2009-03-18T23:36:13-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4585661#4585661 Cutting the wire from terminal #3 on the TCU will disable the fault indicator. It's a light green/black wire. Snip it and be done with it. If you want further validation that it's ok to do, JWT disconnects this circuit inside the TCU when they mod them.That's a decent block diagram Paul but the diagrams on page AT-38 and AT-39 are a little more complete and show wire colors. That's a decent block diagram Paul but the diagrams on page AT-38 and AT-39 are a little more complete and show wire colors. ]]> qsiguy 2009-03-18T23:20:35-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4584920#4584920 Clutch pedal is from a pathfinder (in a Z32 bracket) and brake pedal is Z32. elwesso 2009-03-18T18:50:59-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4584850#4584850 TQuote, originally posted by Raxephon Are you speaking of my 5-speed conversion or the rb swap midnight didThe picuture in this thread.....what are those pedals Quote, originally posted by Raxephon raquo;

Are you speaking of my 5-speed conversion or the rb swap midnight did?

The picuture in this thread.....what are those pedals? ]]> Johnny Rocket 2009-03-18T18:35:19-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4584830#4584830 As far as the ECU is concerned, there is no funny business. It starts up and idles like it should and runs like hell!!! Gee I wonder Wes why it runs like hell Does the new gear ratios that are mutiplying the torque have anything do do with it Gee I wonder Wes why it runs like hell? Does the new gear ratios that are mutiplying the torque have anything do do with it? ]]> Johnny Rocket 2009-03-18T18:30:57-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4584527#4584527 Here is what you were looking for:Go here for a bigger picture: http://picasaweb.google.com/lh...tlink
Go here for a bigger picture: http://picasaweb.google.com/lh...tlink ]]> Paul Wall 2009-03-18T17:08:00-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4584409#4584409 Quote, originally posted by Q451990 ...Do you have a "Transmission Malfunction" message on your dash...There is one wire from the TCU that can be cut to eliminate the "Transmission Malfunction" message. If you want to do it I'll look it up later, can't recall the wire color/pin number from memory. Simple fix... Quote, originally posted by Q451990 raquo;...Do you have a "Transmission Malfunction" message on your dash?...

There is one wire from the TCU that can be cut to eliminate the "Transmission Malfunction" message. If you want to do it I'll look it up later, can't recall the wire color/pin number from memory. Simple fix... ]]> qsiguy 2009-03-18T16:19:50-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4584401#4584401 Quote, originally posted by Rex Wes - have you looked at an SC300's interior, to see if you can copy/steal anything from it's parking break set up.Thats sorta the idea that I had in my mind.. Where it would sit right next to the seat. Quote, originally posted by Rex raquo;Wes - have you looked at an SC300's interior, to see if you can copy/steal anything from it's parking break set up.

Thats sorta the idea that I had in my mind.. Where it would sit right next to the seat. ]]> elwesso 2009-03-18T16:14:44-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4584396#4584396 For me, the MT has way better fun factor and better for track use, which is what I want the car for... Like an Infiniti M5.. The C AMG's are overweight pigs that cant turn with huge power. Just out of curiosity Brian, why would you want a 6 speed The only way that'd be nicer is if you could get one that was like 2nd overdrive... The extra gear I dont think would do much for you, the VH has so much torque in such a wide band that IMO I dont think you'd want 6 speed.... Once I post a video of going through 1st, 2nd and 3rd, youll see... Theres essentially no dead spots, seems to me like theres always a perfect gear, in the less than 100 miles ive driven the car..You guys truly have no idea how great the VH is in stock form until you drive it without the slushbox.. INCREDIBLE.Also, i dropped a "second or 2" with less maintenance and better fuel economy.. no more having to do transmission flushes, just change 2 quarts of fluid every year!! Just out of curiosity Brian, why would you want a 6 speed? The only way that'd be nicer is if you could get one that was like 2nd overdrive... The extra gear I dont think would do much for you, the VH has so much torque in such a wide band that IMO I dont think you'd want 6 speed.... Once I post a video of going through 1st, 2nd and 3rd, youll see...

Theres essentially no dead spots, seems to me like theres always a perfect gear, in the less than 100 miles ive driven the car..

You guys truly have no idea how great the VH is in stock form until you drive it without the slushbox.. INCREDIBLE.

Also, i dropped a "second or 2" with less maintenance and better fuel economy.. no more having to do transmission flushes, just change 2 quarts of fluid every year!! ]]> elwesso 2009-03-18T16:11:54-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4584250#4584250 Quote, originally posted by Rex He's getting REAL good then, given his video and "our" ability to identify a Q45's interior.I'm still shocked by the awesomeness of this project. Quote, originally posted by Rex raquo;He's getting REAL good then, given his video and "our" ability to identify a Q45's interior.

I'm still shocked by the awesomeness of this project. ]]> Jesda 2009-03-18T15:07:09-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4583965#4583965 Wes - have you looked at an SC300's interior, to see if you can copy/steal anything from it's parking break set up.I think he's got some interior shots in one of his videosQuote, originally posted by Jesda Waaaaaaaiiit a minute. April 1st is around the corner. Wes is known for his April Fools shenanigans.I'm on to you, my friend.He's getting REAL good then, given his video and "our" ability to identify a Q45's interior. I think he's got some interior shots in one of his videos

Quote, originally posted by Jesda raquo;

Waaaaaaaiiit a minute. April 1st is around the corner. Wes is known for his April Fools shenanigans. I'm on to you, my friend.

He's getting REAL good then, given his video and "our" ability to identify a Q45's interior. ]]> Rex 2009-03-18T13:42:51-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4583959#4583959 Waaaaaaaiiit a minute. April 1st is around the corner. Wes is known for his April Fools shenanigans.I'm on to you, my friend. I'm on to you, my friend. ]]> Jesda 2009-03-18T13:38:29-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4583493#4583493 Quote, originally posted by AZhitman Aborted. Permanently.I put big power in small cars now. Seems like a supercharged VH45DE in a Z32 would qualify. Rear tire life might be very short, though. Reminds me I have to go see Craig's 450ZX conversion soon. Modified by maxnix at 11:26 AM 3/18/2009 Quote, originally posted by AZhitman raquo;Aborted. Permanently.

I put big power in small cars now.

Seems like a supercharged VH45DE in a Z32 would qualify. Rear tire life might be very short, though.

Reminds me I have to go see Craig's 450ZX conversion soon.

Modified by maxnix at 11:26 AM 3/18/2009 ]]> maxnix 2009-03-18T10:54:14-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4583486#4583486 Quote, originally posted by Raxephon And if Maxnix wants a 5-speed, he'll have plenty of info from NICO to use. Nah, if I am going to all this trouble, T66. Even the GM 6 speed auto would probably require some tunnel modification, not to even speak of the nightmare of programming a TCU for it.With turbo power, a beefed up RE4 is looking like a better solution. That's basically MB approach with their SOHC 3 valve ground ripping V12 torque monsters.Problem is, the G50 is plenty fast for everyday traffic and cross country cruising. The question is, how much does one want to pay in reliability, maintenance and fuel expenses to drop passing time by a second or two Quote, originally posted by Raxephon raquo;
And if Maxnix wants a 5-speed, he'll have plenty of info from NICO to use.
Nah, if I am going to all this trouble, T66. Even the GM 6 speed auto would probably require some tunnel modification, not to even speak of the nightmare of programming a TCU for it.

With turbo power, a beefed up RE4 is looking like a better solution. That's basically MB approach with their SOHC 3 valve ground ripping V12 torque monsters.

Problem is, the G50 is plenty fast for everyday traffic and cross country cruising. The question is, how much does one want to pay in reliability, maintenance and fuel expenses to drop passing time by a second or two? ]]> maxnix 2009-03-18T10:51:32-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4583466#4583466 Aborted. Permanently.I put big power in small cars now. Custom made aluminum D/S with new joints = $300. It's a wear item. Replace with every second set of tires if necessary. I put big power in small cars now.

Custom made aluminum D/S with new joints = $300. It's a wear item. Replace with every second set of tires if necessary. ]]> AZhitman 2009-03-18T10:41:05-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4583461#4583461 Quote, originally posted by AZhitman Wes and I ran into this YEARS ago when we were developing a S/C kit for the G50.Speaking of which, how is that coming I rather like Sijoko's project, and with lower compression pistons it should out perform a C63 or come very close.Those big lifted 4x4 go through u joints at a pretty good clip. There is a reason that every FWD OEM uses constant velocity joints at least on the wheel side of the half shafts. Quote, originally posted by AZhitman raquo;Wes and I ran into this YEARS ago when we were developing a S/C kit for the G50.

Speaking of which, how is that coming?

I rather like Sijoko's project, and with lower compression pistons it should out perform a C63 or come very close.

Those big lifted 4x4 go through u joints at a pretty good clip. There is a reason that every FWD OEM uses constant velocity joints at least on the wheel side of the half shafts. ]]> maxnix 2009-03-18T10:38:41-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4583446#4583446 Quote, originally posted by sishinthin So it's concluded that you'll never have a q stickshift (maxnix), good luck getting the strength back into your floorpan, unless you're adding a cage first. I the case that your're not adding a cage your car will need to be cut apart and the project done while it's bolted down to a unibody jig or the whole things' gonna sag in the middle when you are in there welding it back together.Modified by sishinthin at 4:53 PM 3/18/2009 If you cut a hole in the top of the tunnel just large enough for the tranny you won't see anymore chassis flex than normal once you've made a cover panel for the hole which was cut.1 out of every 500 owners will want this done(if that many) to their car, so you aren't going to "corner the market" so to speak. Sorry.And if Maxnix wants a 5-speed, he'll have plenty of info from NICO to use. Quote, originally posted by sishinthin raquo;So it's concluded that you'll never have a q stickshift (maxnix), good luck getting the strength back into your floorpan, unless you're adding a cage first. I the case that your're not adding a cage your car will need to be cut apart and the project done while it's bolted down to a unibody jig or the whole things' gonna sag in the middle when you are in there welding it back together.

Modified by sishinthin at 4:53 PM 3/18/2009

If you cut a hole in the top of the tunnel just large enough for the tranny you won't see anymore chassis flex than normal once you've made a cover panel for the hole which was cut.

1 out of every 500 owners will want this done(if that many) to their car, so you aren't going to "corner the market" so to speak. Sorry.

And if Maxnix wants a 5-speed, he'll have plenty of info from NICO to use. ]]> Raxephon 2009-03-18T10:33:38-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4583135#4583135 Im pretty sure before retarding starts it has to have a signal from the shift solenoid, and those arent there anymore... ]]> elwesso 2009-03-18T08:41:22-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4583127#4583127 Quote, originally posted by elwesso I could probably trick the car so the transmisison malfuction light doesnt come on...Oh, I'm sure you could trick the cluster by supplying ground or 12V to whatever pin controls that message. I was more concerned about the spark timing retard. It will be interesting to hear how it will drive when the TCU is out.Heath Quote, originally posted by elwesso raquo;I could probably trick the car so the transmisison malfuction light doesnt come on...

Oh, I'm sure you could trick the cluster by supplying ground or 12V to whatever pin controls that message. I was more concerned about the spark timing retard. It will be interesting to hear how it will drive when the TCU is out.

Heath ]]> Q451990 2009-03-18T08:38:59-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4583110#4583110 Yep. AZhitman 2009-03-18T08:33:16-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4583091#4583091 Heck, transfer case to front diff on trucks sees worse deflection from the factory. MinisterofDOOM 2009-03-18T08:28:51-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4583076#4583076 sishinthin - This is nothing new.Wes and I ran into this YEARS ago when we were developing a S/C kit for the G50.And the driveshaft angle issue is a non-issue. Having messed with 4x4s for a while, and having my own struggles with a high-hp car with adjustments made to the engine heigt, I can tell you it is simply not an issue. There's not enough deflection to matter, and very few OEM designs maintain perfect linearity from trans output to diff input.In fact, many are offset TO THE SIDE, as well as vertically. Wes and I ran into this YEARS ago when we were developing a S/C kit for the G50.

And the driveshaft angle issue is a non-issue. Having messed with 4x4s for a while, and having my own struggles with a high-hp car with adjustments made to the engine heigt, I can tell you it is simply not an issue. There's not enough deflection to matter, and very few OEM designs maintain perfect linearity from trans output to diff input.

In fact, many are offset TO THE SIDE, as well as vertically. ]]> AZhitman 2009-03-18T08:24:49-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4583067#4583067 So it's concluded that you'll never have a q stickshift (maxnix), good luck getting the strength back into your floorpan, unless you're adding a cage first. I the case that your're not adding a cage your car will need to be cut apart and the project done while it's bolted down to a unibody jig or the whole things' gonna sag in the middle when you are in there welding it back together. Modified by sishinthin at 4:53 PM 3/18/2009
Modified by sishinthin at 4:53 PM 3/18/2009 ]]> sishinthin 2009-03-18T08:20:52-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4583056#4583056 Quote, originally posted by Q451990 Wes,How did you handle the ECU/TCU communications Do you have a "Transmission Malfunction" message on your dash I know Infiniti made a big deal about retarding the spark advance a bit during shifts to make the A/T shift smoother - does that come in to play hereHeathI get a transmission malfunction code when you first turn the key on, but as soon as you crank the car it goes away.. So it really doesnt bother me.. I havent tried taking the TCU out and seeing if that does anything.I could probably trick the car so the transmisison malfuction light doesnt come on...As far as the ECU is concerned, there is no funny business. It starts up and idles like it should and runs like hell!!! Quote, originally posted by Q451990 raquo;Wes,

How did you handle the ECU/TCU communications? Do you have a "Transmission Malfunction" message on your dash? I know Infiniti made a big deal about retarding the spark advance a bit during shifts to make the A/T shift smoother - does that come in to play here?

Heath

I get a transmission malfunction code when you first turn the key on, but as soon as you crank the car it goes away.. So it really doesnt bother me.. I havent tried taking the TCU out and seeing if that does anything.

I could probably trick the car so the transmisison malfuction light doesnt come on...

As far as the ECU is concerned, there is no funny business. It starts up and idles like it should and runs like hell!!! ]]> elwesso 2009-03-18T08:17:51-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410470;postid=4583018#4583018 jimyb describes precisely why a handbrake that is easily modulated is critical if you don't drive in Iowa or Eastern Nebraska all the time. It is not trivial in the least. No one can transfer from the foot brake to the accelerator and not roll back without an inefficient engagement and abusive of the clutch.Still wonder about the U joint. Seems the only way to install correctly is strip the interior, cut the tunnel, install of mock up very accurately the transmission, clutch housing and engine on new engine mounts, mark, fabricate and weld new tunnel to accommodate the new transmission. Then fabricate mounts for the handbrake along the center console and the cable runs underneath the car.Certainly this is an important first step, but not the final long term solution, unless you are just happy to be rolling.. It is not trivial in the least. No one can transfer from the foot brake to the accelerator and not roll back without an inefficient engagement and abusive of the clutch.

Still wonder about the U joint. Seems the only way to install correctly is strip the interior, cut the tunnel, install of mock up very accurately the transmission, clutch housing and engine on new engine mounts, mark, fabricate and weld new tunnel to accommodate the new transmission. Then fabricate mounts for the handbrake along the center console and the cable runs underneath the car.

Certainly this is an important first step, but not the final long term solution, unless you are just happy to be rolling..
]]> maxnix 2009-03-18T08:05:33-08:00