quick way to lower a nissan/datsun pickup

Reverend D — 2009-11-09T18:50:07-08:00

I seriously doubt these trucks put enough to the pavement to cause axle-wrap. Axle hop perhaps. The option for that is using traction bars. Now if you start getting into turbos and whatnot then I could see some problems down the line. My Datsun with its Z22 would chirp second all day long but never had enough to torsionally twist the spring pack. I would guess that under load axle wrap could happen but we have next to no weight in the rear, the tires would tear loose before the spring packs took any abuse. By removing leaves from the pack I could see axle wrap for sure.

Re: FN-QR (PEZi720)

pejsa s-13 — 2009-11-09T18:19:54-08:00

i did notice improvement off the line (less wrap)
cornering improved as well

this is just in my case though not saying everyone here will have the same results

FN-QR

PEZi720 — 2009-11-09T16:51:43-08:00

i guess i just don't make enough power for axle wrap or somethin... only experienced it once

Re: (pejsa s-13)

Frankie Pintado — 2009-11-09T16:00:31-08:00

Cheap a$$ way you say? that's a start. I'm looking for maybe 1" out of the clamps, and the rest from 2" blocks. Yeah, maybe that's not the greatest way, but I want to try it for myself.

What about axle wrap? did it help with that? See, I'm at stock ride height having a problem, add blocks (leverage) and I'll be bucking.

Re: (Frankie Pintado)

pejsa s-13 — 2009-11-08T20:11:19-08:00

i tried clamping it doent work nearly as good.. not as much drop and its the cheap a$$ way

Frankie Pintado — 2009-11-08T19:27:13-08:00

Here is something on clamping springs. I like this idea, maybe with some blocks.

http://www.hotrodders.com/foru....html

...and Bam!

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-1293/

Modified by Frankie Pintado at 7:32 PM 11/8/2009

Re: (Reverend D)

PEZi720 — 2009-11-08T15:12:02-08:00

Quote, originally posted by Reverend D raquo;

I was just flipping through the August 1998 Minitruckin' and found this... http://www.activesuspension.com/

this looks awesome!!! but it doesn't change height on its own so after a re-arch this would be sweet!!!

Re: (pejsa s-13)

bracktheron720 — 2009-11-08T13:58:45-08:00

Quote, originally posted by pejsa s-13 raquo;

hey sorry it took me so long to actually do it but i did a write up on it in a thread in the forum here check it out...

IT WORKS LIKE A CHARM I LOVE IT

where do i check it out????

Re: (Reverend D)

pejsa s-13 — 2009-11-08T13:41:48-08:00

hey sorry it took me so long to actually do it but i did a write up on it in a thread in the forum here check it out...

IT WORKS LIKE A CHARM I LOVE IT

Reverend D — 2009-11-08T08:54:45-08:00

I was just flipping through the August 1998 Minitruckin' and found this... http://www.activesuspension.com/

They did a review of it installed on a lowered 95 Toyota Tacoma. They took it through its paces both on the road and on the drag strip. They claimed it eliminated axle wrap while maintaining a quality ride. Might be worth it to look into it...

Re: Here's what I'm thinking (Frankie Pintado)

Frankie Pintado — 2009-11-08T07:31:07-08:00

oh I know. This is all very experimental. That's why I'm volunteering my truck as a guinea pig (been experimented on before). ...and it does deserve a disclaimer:
DO NOT DO THIS AT HOME. HIRE A PROFESSIONAL SPRING SHOP.

Please note that I have never been to a spring shop, and will have to do a little homework on what 're-arching' is. I did just pass my ASE test on 'steering, suspension, and alignment' after taking a semester of it at the community college, for what it's worth.

I'm only comparing my idea to the idea of re-locating the helper spring to the top of the assembly. Niether way is the proper way, that's not what I'm after here. I'm looking for the cheapest, safe, reasonably comfortable way for Harry Homeowner to drop this thing a couple inches. Maybe I'm grasping at shadows. Won't know for sure till I try it. Since it costs next to nothing, and I can find the time, why not?

Also, I know that you mentioned that you do not have much of a problem with axle wrap. I do have a slight problem in 1st and 2nd. Actually, since I put that weber 38 on there, it's a pretty bad problem. And I do need to load down my truck bed with tools sometimes. So I'm very hesitant to do anything that will soften the springs. Almost as hesitant as I am to sink money into this truck.

FN-QR

PEZi720 — 2009-11-08T00:08:54-08:00

frankie... your plan is basically a cheap way of doing a spring re-arch... the problem is that a real re-arch is proven and your way could possibly not end up working out... a re-arch at a spring shop is all labor so if its done at a place that's done them before it should be a relatively quick and cheap mod

Re: Here's what I'm thinking (Frankie Pintado)

bracktheron720 — 2009-11-07T22:02:45-08:00

Iv got load leveling springs on my truck they are short thick extra leaf springs in front and behind the axle..like these

http://auto.sears.com/HELLWIG-...05981

im tryin to get the A$$ end lower...what do i do with these??lose them??wrench um down??any ideas....after talkin to a few people and following this iv decided im thinkin blocks for now and a rearch of the springs as the project gets a little further along

Here's what I'm thinking

Frankie Pintado — 2009-11-07T19:29:04-08:00

So I'm still planning on trying this sometime in the near future, but I don't see it as very promising. I expect that it will ride like crap.

Here's the problem. The red spring is a helper spring. It responds to the load on the truck bed. When the two longer leaves are too soft for the road and load conditions, the helper springs come into play, stiffening the ride the more the leaf spring assembly is straightened.

I probably don;t need to explain to you guys that lower and softer simply will not work. Some of this could be compensated for with stiffer shocks, but still... this is a violation.

So the two long springs will probably not be stiff enough. The truck will probably bounce and bottom out.

But what about this: How about just clamping the helper spring to the other springs right where it is? The lowering effect would be similar, and the original behavior of the spring would be preserved, only it would act like it was fully loaded. In other words, it would be stiffer and lower.
In fact, I don't see why it wouldn't be adjustable: just move the clamps closer together or further apart. I think this is much more promising.

Re: (lavagray)

Reverend D — 2009-11-04T17:02:10-08:00

Quote, originally posted by lavagray raquo;

More info on: reindex the control arm bushings?

Sorry for the noobie question.

Control arm bushings are tightened with all four wheels on the ground. They have a predetermined range of motion once tightened down. By lowering the truck automatically those bushings are out of range due to the new angle of the control arms to the frame. To fix this you must loosen the control arm bushings, set the truck back on the ground then re tighten them to spec. This will allow them to adjust to the new control arm angle to the frame. Otherwise they will be ripped apart in a shorter amount of time because their range of motion is out of limits. Easiest to perform on an alignment rack.

Re: FN-QR (Frankie Pintado)

bracktheron720 — 2009-11-04T14:55:03-08:00

awsome!!!im gunna try to patiantly wait to hear back on it!!

FN-QR

PEZi720 — 2009-11-04T12:51:04-08:00

sweet thanks man!

Re: FN-QR (PEZi720)

Frankie Pintado — 2009-11-03T22:14:16-08:00

OK, I've been watching this thread lately, and I've got a truck that I am willing to try the spring swap on.

I also see a few potential problems: mainly that with that configuration, the suspension may get softer as it compresses. not good.

However, I admit that it is difficult to picture exactly what the effect will be without trying it. Since the body is such a heap of rust and bondo, and has mold and grass growing on it, I volunteer to try this probably bad idea. It may be a week or two, but I'll get back to you all with some pictures and reviews.

Re: FN-QR (PEZi720)

bracktheron720 — 2009-11-01T22:40:36-08:00

rite on thats kinda the answer i was looking for!!im not goin for a strait up track vehicle more of an agressive DD..i love the look of my truck just want a little more perfomce and handling out of her!!lowering helped with the cornering alot!!in the rear mine has helper springs for hauling heavier loads will removing them do anything to the ride hight??as far as looks go i just want to get the stance rite still...iv alredy converted the front clip to an earlier model Datsun insted of my 84 front end was a little work but came out sweet!!

FN-QR

PEZi720 — 2009-11-01T18:44:03-08:00

i've been thinking about this leaf swap... and i feel it wouldn't be 'stable' for performance... probably ok in a DD that doesn't see a lot of hard use but a simple re-arch from a spring shop would give you the same result without compromising performance

Re: FN-QR (pejsa s-13)

bracktheron720 — 2009-10-24T23:46:34-08:00

Quote, originally posted by pejsa s-13 raquo;

cool thats pretty much exactly what i wanted to know

and ill expirement with the leafs on sunday and let you know the results.

did you caome up with anything??i wanna do the leaf fswitch if it worked for you!!!

Re: FN-QR (PEZi720)

pejsa s-13 — 2009-09-17T19:00:54-08:00

cool thats pretty much exactly what i wanted to know

and ill expirement with the leafs on sunday and let you know the results.

FN-QR

PEZi720 — 2009-09-17T15:47:49-08:00

answer to first question... i dunno... but i want to know as well because once i make some more power i'll need to get rid of the blocks

second question... this is a little harder to answer because i'm running in a class that is for cars built for the track only (which mine still has a long way to go in order to be competitive in) BUT... as far as being competitive against other 'street' cars... yes it is

here are a few times from a previous event

my truck (less than 100whp / truck suspension) - 64.801

'93 240sx (KA port and polished w/full exhaust / full suspension) - 65.235

'07 STi (300whp / full suspension) - 64.145

'06 s2000 (stock but good tires) - 65.055

now like i said... there is a lot of room to play in my class... and to be competitive in my class i need to build the truck to be much better... the guy who took 2nd in nationals in my class was there this same day and...

'87 corolla gt-s AE68 (250 whp / FULL CUSTOM suspension / 1700 lbs) - 55.247

Re: FN-QR (PEZi720)

pejsa s-13 — 2009-09-17T12:26:18-08:00

two questions for you pezi:

1. some odpl guy told me if i took the thick a** leaf off the bottom of the leaf pack and put it on the top instead, it would give me 2 more inches of drop, by flattening out the leafs and give me stiffer rear ride (true or false)

2. was your truck competive in auto x, like whats another vehicle that was there one day that had the same times as you?

FN-QR

PEZi720 — 2009-09-16T22:35:17-08:00

check the bushings... every last little rubber piece under there

Re: FN-QR (PEZi720)

kibatheloanwolf — 2009-09-16T21:37:42-08:00

Thanks PEZi Anything I wanna check While it's on the stands?

FN-QR

PEZi720 — 2009-09-16T21:24:00-08:00

yep

Re: (PEZi720)

kibatheloanwolf — 2009-09-16T19:32:51-08:00

Do I need to put it on stands first?

Re: (kibatheloanwolf)

PEZi720 — 2009-09-16T14:16:52-08:00

to raise the front you just 'tighten' the torsion bar bolts (turn to the right)

but personally i like the front lower... i lowered my front more than the rear... helps my driving style at autocross too

Re: (PEZi720)

kibatheloanwolf — 2009-09-16T11:34:59-08:00

Two questions 1. Why are the hard body's a** end always higher than the front of the truck?

2. suppose I wanna Raise the nose of my truck how would I do that?

Re: (LVM)

PEZi720 — 2009-09-09T17:04:02-08:00

Quote, originally posted by LVM raquo;

What is the difference out of the drop spindles as opposed to the drop control arms?
Does anyone have problems with the drop blocks and is it worth the money to get drop leafs? Summit sells them, and I know blocks are illegal in some states, but do they cause any issues with the way you are able to drive your truck. In the near future once I figure out where my rear end is coming from, I'm going to start drifting my truck, and I wasn't sure if anyone has had issues or not.

with the power these trucks make the rear drop blocks don't cause any issues... however... with higher HP they will allow for 'axle wrap' and not be all that fun... remember this is the 'quick way to lower it'
if you want to drift either get drop leafs or if you want to be completely sure about your purchase have them lowered at a spring shop... i autocross and have no issues with the blocks until the back end breaks loose... but considering i'm not supposed to be breaking loose i'll leave it until i do my suspension build
as far as the front... i've never heard of drop control arms... but the spindles will work great! i'm sure someone here has heard of the control arms but i haven't... so i'll let them tell you about those

Re: (Jamman)

LVM — 2009-09-09T12:20:44-08:00

Re: (young-gunn)

Jamman — 2009-08-04T20:50:22-08:00

Remember that you can lower out the front suspension travel. Which will give you no travel and an unsafe ride not to mention destroy your truck and maybe even teeth

FN-QR

PEZi720 — 2009-08-01T23:03:05-08:00

its not as comfortable no... but it can be helped by getting better shocks

lavagray — 2009-07-31T22:44:01-08:00

Sorry. My question is if the truck is lowered, do you lose much on the ride comfort? The rears I would think is the same ride, so does the front ride get harsher?

Re: FN-QR (PEZi720)

97PickUp — 2009-07-31T15:19:38-08:00

Hahaha. to be fair, the bolts were rusted to all hell.

and just a side note ^ On my '97 I found it was also a 19 or 3/4 for the torsion bars (3/4 seemed to work better for some reason)

FN-QR

PEZi720 — 2009-07-30T22:11:15-08:00

hot damn! mine came off pretty easy the normal way... but yeah that works too!

Re: quick way to lower a nissan/datsun pickup (PEZi720)

97PickUp — 2009-07-30T21:38:30-08:00

I found this way of removing the stock U bolts easier:

FN-QR

PEZi720 — 2009-07-28T22:20:06-08:00

if you search for re-indexing you should find a thread... i know there was one specifically on re-indexing possibly in the ODPL section of NICO

shocks will not change your ride height unless the current ones are completely shot and even then it wouldn't take you up much

lavagray — 2009-07-28T00:33:40-08:00

More info on: reindex the control arm bushings?

Changing the shocks will get you close to stock ride again?

Sorry for the noobie question.

Re: (Desert Rat)

kibatheloanwolf — 2009-07-17T07:54:00-08:00

Quote, originally posted by Desert Rat raquo;

I can lower your truck faster.

Let the air out of the tires

No no no you for got one other option Desert Rat You for got taking the rims off :P

Re: quick way to lower a nissan/datsun pickup (PEZi720)

flinterman2000 — 2009-07-17T04:35:58-08:00

My brother had an83 king cab and lowered his about three inches with lowering blocks. I also know that he cut the chassis and installed a piece of 4" pipe to get the full travel of the diff. Is that really necessary for that kind of drop or only if you are going really radical.

Re: (rizzobc)

Desert Rat — 2009-06-19T07:03:59-08:00

I can lower your truck faster.

Let the air out of the tires

Re: (Reverend D)

rizzobc — 2009-06-18T18:01:49-08:00

ok, you guys are great. you have helped me ou so much, but i do hve a question. how do you reindex the control arm bushings? you see this is all new to me. thanks Rizz

Re: quick way to lower a nissan/datsun pickup (young-gunn)

PEZi720 — 2009-03-07T17:33:59-08:00

for the front you can get drop spindles... that with the torsion bars can lower you to the ground if you want

for the rear couple the lowering blocks with along with a re-arch of the leaf springs (or flip the eyelets of the leaf springs) but that needs to be done at a spring shop.

Re: quick way to lower a nissan/datsun pickup (PEZi303)

young-gunn — 2009-03-06T23:01:32-08:00

is there any way to get my truck any lower without resorting to air? There's lots of the ones built for drift that are right low, and I cant imagine them using air.

Re: (young-gunn)

PEZi720 — 2009-03-02T15:13:47-08:00

Quote, originally posted by young-gunn raquo;

I dropped mine last night and aligned it this afternoon, but it's very bouncy. is there any way to sidden the front up? I'm going to be buying some aftermarket shocks too once winter is over.

the aftermarket shocks should fix it... mine is extremely stiff because i wanted to keep it ready for auto x.

there are many options out there in that respect including KYB monomax that are pretty good... but if you're really looking for the 'perfect' ride they make adjustable KONI's that can be found on summitracing.com... that way you get to choose exactly what ride you get out of the vehicle... most expensive option of course

Re: (Reverend D)

young-gunn — 2009-02-27T15:04:24-08:00

I dropped mine last night and aligned it this afternoon, but it's very bouncy. is there any way to sidden the front up? I'm going to be buying some aftermarket shocks too once winter is over.

Reverend D — 2009-02-24T16:39:15-08:00

The only thing I might want to suggest is re-indexing your control arm bushings with the weight of the truck on them. This will prevent over extending them since they were torqued with the original ride height in mind. It's just a matter of loosening them and re-torquing them which allows them to adjust to the new ride height. Bushings only have so much travel and by lowering the truck they go out of their "range" thus shortening their life. Re-indexing them allows for the new ride height while keeping the bushings within "range".

Re: quick way to lower a nissan/datsun pickup (PEZi303)

Markadopolus — 2009-02-24T15:02:42-08:00

Here's a pic of the 90's 2WD torsion bar adjusting nuts. As you can see there are plenty of threads left on the stock bolt.

Re: (Reverend D)

FlatBlackIan — 2009-02-24T07:12:37-08:00

Looks good Anthony.

Reverend D — 2009-02-24T03:58:23-08:00

Awesome work guys! I vote sticky.

Re: quick way to lower a nissan/datsun pickup (PEZi303)

Markadopolus — 2009-02-24T02:59:13-08:00

Nice write up.

I'll try to get some pics of the torsion bars of my 92 because they are ever so slightly different than your 720.

Just a little tip: When I was lowering my front torsion bars, I used a "Locking Flex Ratcheting Combination Wrench" It made lowering the front a whole lot easier than using an open ended wrench because of the limited space. The nuts for the torsion bar adjustment on my 92 hardbody were both 19mm, but it may be different for other years.

quick way to lower a nissan/datsun pickup

PEZi720 — 2009-02-23T23:41:07-08:00

Many people tend to be curious as to the lowering of their pickups when they get them. This is the simple process to lower your nissan trucks all the way from back in the datsun days through the hardbody days. The process is by using lowering blocks in the rear and cranking down the torsion bars in the front.

For the rear: You will need a set of lowering blocks which can be found at many local parts stores such as checker. You simply go up to an employee and tell them what you're looking for as they are typically in the back. They come generally in 2" 2.5" and 3" blocks and will lower the truck accordingly. Longer u-bolts will also be needed; your best bet is to take the old ones off once you get going to check out the size as different model pickups may have different sizes. The length will need to be extended in respect to the size block you purchase. New nuts and washers are typically included with the u-bolts. Lastly you will need new "drop shocks". These are shocks specifically made for the change in ride height that your block is giving you.

For the front: In later model pickups ie: 720 and hardbody, you will only need a socket wrench and an open end wrench. The size socket and open end will likely depend on the year your truck was produced so it is best to check what size you will need before starting. In earlier model datsun truck you may also need longer bolts in place of the stock torsion bar anchors as well. Make sure these bolts are grade 8!!!!

Reference Pictures:

The process rear:
I. With wheel chucks around your front tires jack up the rear and put jackstands under the vehicle. Once the truck is up, release the jack so the springs will drop to full extension, but once full extension is reached use the jack as support for the axle while working.
II. Unbolt all four nuts from the u-bolts (see pic 1). The typical socket size is a 19mm deep dish though it should always be checked as your truck may be different. Also unbolt both the top and bottom bolts of the shock and remove it. The top is typically 18mm and the bottom a 16mm. Once the shock is removed, the u-bolts can be removed from the lower plate and the whole assembly can be removed from the axle.
III. Repeat on other side of the truck.
IV. Jack the axle back up as to separate the axle from the leaf springs.
V. Slide the lowering block into place in between the axle and leaf springs. There is a tab on the block and that will face down into a hole in the leaf spring. The stock tab on the axle will fit into a hole found on the opposite side of the tab on the block.
VI. Repeat on the other side of the truck. A partner may be helpful for this step as the other side may be unseated while putting in the second side's block. The bet way is for one person to set in the blocks and then align the axle while a second person then lowers the jack back to full extension. Leave jack under for support.
VII. Put the new u-bolts around the axle.
VIII. Reattach the lower plate and torque the new nuts to the u-bolts at 75-85 ft lbs. Re torque after 100 miles!
IX. Repeat on other side.
X. Reattach new shocks. Attach the lower end of the new shocks in to both sides. You may need to jack the axle up a couple inches in order to attach the tops of the shocks. Once attached and everything is tight, remove the jack stands and lower the truck.

The process front:
I. With the e-brake on and wheel chucks around rear tires, jack the front end of the truck up and put it on jack stands.
II. Proceed to the torsion bar anchor bolts which are shown in picture 2. If you are having trouble finding them refer to picture 3. Picture 3 shows the path the torsion bar takes back to the anchor bolts from the front suspension.
III. Put your socket wrench (typically 17mm) on the bolt itself and the open end wrench (typically 15mm) on the nut on top of the bolt.
IV. Turn the bolt left (loosen) to lower the front end. You will need to choose your own ride height when doing this as there is not a 1:1 ratio for bolt movement to lowering height. This means you may end up jacking the truck up and down several times before you get it completely right. Each time you should let the shocks settle before measuring height. With older model trucks keep in mind you may need longer bolts to achieve your desired drop.
V. Remove jack stands and drop the truck.
VI. Go get a front end alignment because both your toe and camber will be out severely. You may find that if you have frame damage your camber may not be able to be fully readjusted due to the new drop.

It took me about an hour by myself to lower the rear and you can bet on about 5 minutes for the front if you get the ride heigh right the first try... otherwise jacking up again and so on will take a bit longer.

If you have any further question please contact me via e-mail!

When all was said and done... I ended up with this