I have to same issue ! I have to turn the air/heat on and off a few times before the sound stops. And sometimes it still doesn't stop. Def want to get this fixed before the winter.

I'll order the motor thanks to your post!! ]]> jrow003 2009-10-29T09:19:35-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=5174278#5174278 Same as the first guy, as in no air coming from the vents, my control panel lights and switches work, you can hear something changing in the engine compartment when I switch speeds, but nothing happens. Where my problem is different though, is my fuses in the dash for the blower motor are blown. Replace them, turn on heater, nothing happens again, but my fuses are still blown...Any ideasThanks! Any ideas?
Thanks! ]]> yoder9945 2009-10-27T05:56:52-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=5114764#5114764 Hello all, a new member here, but I'm a bit of bym and have done a lot of electrical work with alarm systems and such, just wanting to get some feedback. My wife has an 05 pathfinder and the blower is working intermittently. It doesn't run when you first start or drive, but then about 15 minutes into your ride it usually starts working and works fine on all speeds until the vehicle is turned off. It has the digital controls and nav system, but I believe it is a "manual" blower fan system as from what I've read and the diagrams I've seen, I can definately see the resistor module with a 4 wire white clip going to it under the glove box on the passenger side next to the blower motor. However when I test the blower motor, I am getting 12 volts and power to it through the blue wire. Power goes away when I turn the fan off through the controls. So if I am getting power to the blower, then the resistor module should be working, right Just not sure if I should change the blower motor or module and wanted to get some feedback.Thanks! My wife has an 05 pathfinder and the blower is working intermittently. It doesn't run when you first start or drive, but then about 15 minutes into your ride it usually starts working and works fine on all speeds until the vehicle is turned off. It has the digital controls and nav system, but I believe it is a "manual" blower fan system as from what I've read and the diagrams I've seen, I can definately see the resistor module with a 4 wire white clip going to it under the glove box on the passenger side next to the blower motor. However when I test the blower motor, I am getting 12 volts and power to it through the blue wire. Power goes away when I turn the fan off through the controls. So if I am getting power to the blower, then the resistor module should be working, right? Just not sure if I should change the blower motor or module and wanted to get some feedback.
Thanks! ]]> o5pathy 2009-10-02T07:12:45-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=5112545#5112545 On the way home last night my A/C started doing crazy stuff. Wouldnt cut off, ran at max speed only. Got online last night and found this post. Picked up the part today and followed the instructions in this thread. Within 10 minutes i had fixed the A/C Problem. This thread is a life saver! thanks a ton andrew. The vehicle is a 2002 qx4 with 116k miles. gmcdougal 2009-10-01T10:53:04-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=5111806#5111806 Hi Everyone!Thanks for all of the help first.I have a 2001 Pathfinder LE V6 and have had the same problems of my blower not working. Ther was no voltage to the blower motor. So as everyone had done I took out the fan amp and found in my case that the thermal cut off fuse was blown. For everyone's reference the N-Channel MOSFET was an NEC K2500 9ZThe thermal cut off fuse is a Panasonic N-Series EYP2BN134. I had a lot of trouble finding them so I ordered:Cantherm SDJ1 DF141SDigikey Product Number 317-1134-NDI just ordered this new thermal fuse and have NOT tried it out yet. Since the specs appear to be very similar it should work. I'll report back once I test it out.By the way when removing the circuit board use a flat screw driver and pry up on the side where you can see the little screw holding the MOSFET down on the heatsink. The side there there is a single brass connector (labeled R1/R2). Then use a small screwdriver and remove that screw. The lift vertically up to disengage the thermal paste which is very thick in consistency.Hope this help everyone. I'll report back soon. Thanks for all of the help first.

I have a 2001 Pathfinder LE V6 and have had the same problems of my blower not working. Ther was no voltage to the blower motor. So as everyone had done I took out the fan amp and found in my case that the thermal cut off fuse was blown.

For everyone's reference the N-Channel MOSFET was an NEC K2500 9Z

The thermal cut off fuse is a Panasonic N-Series EYP2BN134. I had a lot of trouble finding them so I ordered:

Cantherm SDJ1 DF141S

Digikey Product Number 317-1134-ND

I just ordered this new thermal fuse and have NOT tried it out yet. Since the specs appear to be very similar it should work. I'll report back once I test it out.

By the way when removing the circuit board use a flat screw driver and pry up on the side where you can see the little screw holding the MOSFET down on the heatsink. The side there there is a single brass connector (labeled R1/R2). Then use a small screwdriver and remove that screw. The lift vertically up to disengage the thermal paste which is very thick in consistency.

Hope this help everyone. I'll report back soon.

]]> gfw 2009-10-01T00:07:26-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=5081906#5081906 Thanks for the great help. I picked the part up this afternoon and had it installed in under 5 minutes. You saved me lots of $$$$. John2000Path 2009-09-18T14:05:49-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=5080288#5080288 Andrew,Thanks so much. I just had the same problem with my 2002 Pathfinder a couple days ago. Thanks to your information here I fixed it today for just under $200 and about 20 minutes.Another strange problem I have is that my car loses oil. It doesn't leak and there is no smoke in the exhaust. I found other sites saying it was a defective right valve cover. Have you heard of thatActually, there is another hard problem to diagnose. My dash lights are half out but not all the time. Most of the time my MPH is lit but my Tach is not. Then whenever it feels like it, the whole thing is illuminated. I have no clue where to look for that one.I appreciate any insight you may have.Thanks.Anthony Thanks so much. I just had the same problem with my 2002 Pathfinder a couple days ago. Thanks to your information here I fixed it today for just under $200 and about 20 minutes.

Another strange problem I have is that my car loses oil. It doesn't leak and there is no smoke in the exhaust. I found other sites saying it was a defective right valve cover. Have you heard of that?

Actually, there is another hard problem to diagnose. My dash lights are half out but not all the time. Most of the time my MPH is lit but my Tach is not. Then whenever it feels like it, the whole thing is illuminated. I have no clue where to look for that one.

I appreciate any insight you may have.

Thanks.

Anthony ]]> areckard 2009-09-17T22:27:24-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=5079816#5079816 Quote, originally posted by John2000Path You are absolutely correct in that the HVAC controls are manual. Is the resistor unit difficult to change out and where is it located Thanks!The blower resistor is actually very simple to replace and only takes about five minutes and no dis-assembly is required! If you look under the glove box area you can see the blower motor. The blower resistor is located on the other side of the blower motor (on the firewall side) and it's held in with two screws. You just have to remove those two screws and pull out the blower resistor. Here's a diagram to help you locate it better: If you have a multimeter you can test the terminal resistances to see if this is actually your problem. Quote, originally posted by John2000Path raquo;You are absolutely correct in that the HVAC controls are manual. Is the resistor unit difficult to change out and where is it located? Thanks!

The blower resistor is actually very simple to replace and only takes about five minutes and no dis-assembly is required! If you look under the glove box area you can see the blower motor. The blower resistor is located on the other side of the blower motor (on the firewall side) and it's held in with two screws. You just have to remove those two screws and pull out the blower resistor. Here's a diagram to help you locate it better:

If you have a multimeter you can test the terminal resistances to see if this is actually your problem. ]]> Pwnin O'Brien 2009-09-17T19:47:34-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=5079062#5079062 You are absolutely correct in that the HVAC controls are manual. Is the resistor unit difficult to change out and where is it located Thanks! ]]> John2000Path 2009-09-17T14:29:57-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=5077450#5077450 I am going to assume that since you do not have the holes already cut out for the in-cabin air filters (from the factory) then you have manual HVAC controls. Now, assuming you have the manual dial-type HVAC controls, your issue is not the fan control amplifier (since the manual HVAC system does not have one), your issue is the fan resistor. This means that the resistors are fried and you need to replace the entire resistor unit.Do you have the digital (automatic) heating/air system or do you have the three dial (manual) heating/air system If it's the latter then the above paragraph applies to your vehicle. If it's the former, then everything I have said here does not apply. Do you have the digital (automatic) heating/air system or do you have the three dial (manual) heating/air system? If it's the latter then the above paragraph applies to your vehicle. If it's the former, then everything I have said here does not apply. ]]> Pwnin O'Brien 2009-09-16T21:13:29-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=5076706#5076706 The fan on my 2000 Pathfinder SE only blows on high. I followed the instructions from one of the previous post, but once the glovebox was removed I could not locate the Fan Control Amp. There is an obvious location where the amp should be located, but there is a molded plastic insert in its place. I traced the wire harness from the fan switch but could not follow it all the way. Is there another place were this FCA could be located Also, when I ordered the Fan Control Amp I also purchased the cabin filters. There are no provisions in the housing to accomodate these filters. I read in a previous post that it may be necessary to cut slots in the housing in order to use these filters. Is this indeed the caseThanks for all the great help so far. Also, when I ordered the Fan Control Amp I also purchased the cabin filters. There are no provisions in the housing to accomodate these filters. I read in a previous post that it may be necessary to cut slots in the housing in order to use these filters. Is this indeed the case?

Thanks for all the great help so far. ]]> John2000Path 2009-09-16T17:07:04-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=5011899#5011899 A big thank you to everyone here, especially Andrew and Solara. Who knew that the fan blowing on high was enough to send one over the edge. I spend close to 2 hours a day in my car and that fan was driving me crazy. I have a 2003 Pathfinder and bought the parts at Courtesy. Delivery slower than I would have liked, 4 business days, total cost for fan control amp and filters was $156, delivered. The 2003 Pathfinder is also one of those where you have to cut out the hole for the filters. If I had done my homework and realized this ahead of time I would not have installed them. Trying to cut a clean hole in the plastic so that the filters fit nicely was a PITA. I have done without them all this time could have continued without them. Unless you have severe alergies or other reasons to want them I suggest doing without. I have a 2003 Pathfinder and bought the parts at Courtesy. Delivery slower than I would have liked, 4 business days, total cost for fan control amp and filters was $156, delivered. The 2003 Pathfinder is also one of those where you have to cut out the hole for the filters. If I had done my homework and realized this ahead of time I would not have installed them. Trying to cut a clean hole in the plastic so that the filters fit nicely was a PITA. I have done without them all this time could have continued without them. Unless you have severe alergies or other reasons to want them I suggest doing without.
]]> kevlizmom 2009-08-21T04:07:32-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=5001892#5001892 Changing the blower motor was very easy using the instructions above to remove the glovebox/paneling and took about 30min. I found a motor online at https://www.am-autoparts.com/ for $55.55 free s/h and it arrived in2 days! https://www.am-autoparts.com/ for $55.55 free s/h and it arrived in2 days! ]]> ctenny11 2009-08-18T14:23:53-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=4942623#4942623 To give credit where it is deserved, I posted the instructions. Other members added the pictures. And then someone else even figured out how to repair the amp. for a couple bucks. But we are all here to help. It's a team effort. That's why I like this forum. We help each other out more than we flame each other.Andrew Andrew ]]> Andrew224 2009-07-26T21:28:28-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=4941363#4941363 This post was a real help and a very worthwhile piece of work; Thank You Andrew 224. This is really better that Factory issued maint. manuals or even after market CD's because of the pictures. I was able to change the filters and Fan Control Amp in about 30 minutes whcih probably saved me $500 in Dealer charges in a 2000 Infinity QX4. 7/26/2009Bob Farr 7/26/2009
Bob Farr ]]> bobfarr2 2009-07-26T11:15:27-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=4939359#4939359 It's a little more in depth than the amp. but in the same general area. Use the instructions from page 1 of this post to get to it. Take the glovebox and panel behind it down and then turn the a/c on. You'll get a better idea of what's causing the noise. If your filter hasn't been changed in the past year or two, I would change it. I have no idea what a blower motor costs.Good luck,Andrew Good luck,

Andrew ]]> Andrew224 2009-07-25T07:39:39-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=4938646#4938646 How much are those and is it just as easy as changing the amp Is it located in the same general area and should I change the filter at the same time I appreciate any help. ctenny11 2009-07-24T19:39:02-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=4938166#4938166 That sounds like the blower motor is going. The amp going most likely would not have any noises associated with it.Andrew Andrew ]]> Andrew224 2009-07-24T15:17:15-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=4937014#4937014 OK, so I read through all these posts and have what i think is a similar problem. However, my fan still works on all speeds, but makes a horrible screeching/clicking noise under the glove box. I have to turn the AC off then back on several times in order to make it stop (which doesn't always work). Do I have a blower motor going out or the amp problem ctenny11 2009-07-24T07:05:52-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=4926339#4926339 that is very odd because i have an 02 and i didnt have to cut anything! rydebynite 2009-07-20T18:00:44-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=4925367#4925367 WOW! I'm sooo happy! I love you guys! I replaced the mosfet for giggles and then the resistor with parts that cost 3.50 from http://www.digikey.com/ and my ac works like brand new now! I'm amazed, this was gonna cost me close to $1k at the infiniti dealership! I owe u guys a beer (quite a few) if you're ever in Fresno! http://www.digikey.com/ and my ac works like brand new now! I'm amazed, this was gonna cost me close to $1k at the infiniti dealership! I owe u guys a beer (quite a few) if you're ever in Fresno! ]]> millerlight 2009-07-20T12:20:45-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=4840859#4840859 This worked for me.....AWESOME.....replaced the part...I'm back in BUSINESS!!! Thanks for the detailed instructions! dolphin80 2009-06-16T10:45:10-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=4735830#4735830 I had the dead fan problem with my wife's 1999 QX4 about a year ago. After using this site to track the problem down to the Fan Control AMP module, I disassembled the AMP module and tracked the problem down to the failed component within that package. The component that fails within this module has a custom part number that will not cross reference to a standard replacement component (I think an NEC number on mine if I remember correctly). However, after a little more research, I decided to take an educated guess at what the component was and went with an N-Channel MOSFET. I replaced the failed component within the metal case (making sure to properly re-heat sink the replacement component since all fan motor current is driven through this small part). You will have to solder the part into place, but there are only three pins on the part, so it's a fairly easy repair. The repaired amp module has worked perfectly fine. We haven't had a problem in over a year now. The replacement component costs about $3.That takes the repair of this problem from a $700 dealer repair, all the way down to a $3 component replacement if you are willing to get out your soldering iron. Use the directions from another author in this thread to remove the AMP module metal can (The pictorial instructions provided in this thread are excellent). Then open the can and find the only part that looks like the one pictured in the link below.A link to the replacement part follows:http://parts.digikey.com/1/par....htmlThis fix took the $700 dealer repair beyond the savings of going with the $120 module replacement - all the way down to a $3 component replacement.By the way, there is also a thermal fuse in the module. Mine checked out ok with the ohm meter, but I replaced it also anyways since I had the module opened to replace the MOSFET. The part number I used for that component follows:http://parts.digikey.com/1/par....htmlI hope others can have the same success in savings I had with this repair. I replaced the failed component within the metal case (making sure to properly re-heat sink the replacement component since all fan motor current is driven through this small part). You will have to solder the part into place, but there are only three pins on the part, so it's a fairly easy repair. The repaired amp module has worked perfectly fine. We haven't had a problem in over a year now. The replacement component costs about $3.

That takes the repair of this problem from a $700 dealer repair, all the way down to a $3 component replacement if you are willing to get out your soldering iron. Use the directions from another author in this thread to remove the AMP module metal can (The pictorial instructions provided in this thread are excellent). Then open the can and find the only part that looks like the one pictured in the link below.

A link to the replacement part follows:
http://parts.digikey.com/1/par....html

This fix took the $700 dealer repair beyond the savings of going with the $120 module replacement - all the way down to a $3 component replacement.

By the way, there is also a thermal fuse in the module. Mine checked out ok with the ohm meter, but I replaced it also anyways since I had the module opened to replace the MOSFET. The part number I used for that component follows:
http://parts.digikey.com/1/par....html

I hope others can have the same success in savings I had with this repair.

]]> rmillermrc 2009-05-08T20:00:48-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=4646953#4646953 2000 QX4 with the same symptoms as the initial poster. All fuses look OK. I have replaced the blower fan and the amp and I still have the same problem. I have gone through the diags found in the service manual and can't get beyond #4 as I have nothing coming out from any of the air vents. I put my hand on the new blower motor and it feels as if it is moving however there is no air coming from the vents....Any suggestions eggo 2009-04-07T16:39:53-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=4304946#4304946 According to the TSB, linked below, both the blower fan and amp need to be replaced.http://www.nissanhelp.com/Owne...7.htm-or-http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums...age=4 http://www.nissanhelp.com/Owne...7.htm

-or-

http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums...age=4

]]> pathfinder02 2008-12-20T19:11:29-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=4302662#4302662 Thanks to everyone for all of this amazing info! I'm not having any blower amp issues but I did remove my in cabin filters a few minutes ago which have over 180,000 miles on them and wow, those things are nasty! I had no idea they were even there so they never got replaced.Thanks again!!!Billy Thanks again!!!

Billy ]]> Empty V 2008-12-19T16:23:25-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=4302391#4302391 I replaced the fan amp. in my friend's truck about a year and a half ago (where this post originated). He never had an issue again.I've never heard what you've been told. In fact, when mine went out in my truck (an '01 QX4) about 3 months ago, I took it to the dealer (it's under an Infiniti extended warranty) and they just replaced the fan amp.My opinion is that unless your truck is under warranty, which it doesn't sound like it is or you wouldn't be here, you should just replace the fan control amp. yourself and save a few crisp hundred dollar bills.Andrew I've never heard what you've been told. In fact, when mine went out in my truck (an '01 QX4) about 3 months ago, I took it to the dealer (it's under an Infiniti extended warranty) and they just replaced the fan amp.

My opinion is that unless your truck is under warranty, which it doesn't sound like it is or you wouldn't be here, you should just replace the fan control amp. yourself and save a few crisp hundred dollar bills.

Andrew ]]> Andrew224 2008-12-19T14:16:06-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=4302007#4302007 I replaced my amp back in March and have had no problems with it since. PivoArch 2008-12-19T11:37:57-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=4301993#4301993 Okay, I just spoke to my dealer further about this issue. They claim only replacing the amp is a Band-Aid and that the problem will recur as there is an issue with the blower or blower/amp combo, thus the need to replace the whole thing. Any thoughts on this Has anyone who has only replaced the amp had the problem happen again pathfinder02 2008-12-19T11:29:33-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=4301424#4301424 have them give you a breakdown of whats in the kit, if they wont tell you what parts they are trying to pass off as a "kit", then they arent worth dealing with. most likely all you need is the fan amp which isnt $400. Modified by timmack at 6:36 AM 12/19/2008
Modified by timmack at 6:36 AM 12/19/2008 ]]> timmack 2008-12-19T06:13:35-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=4300448#4300448 I just recently started experiencing one of the issues mentioned in this thread on my '02 Pathfinder: climate control fan runs on high and will not shut off. The tech at my dealer today said I needed a "blower motor kit" and the cost was an ugly $415. This on top of the $85 I paid for the diagnostic and I'm not certain that $415 includes labor. They ordered the "kit" but I have not committed. Does this sound legit pathfinder02 2008-12-18T18:29:39-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=4176631#4176631 Since I couldn't find a replacement for the original MOSFET, I looked for a replacement. I got a package of ten IRFZ44V via E-Bay (from Hong Kong!) for under $10 including shipping. I replaced the Mosfet in the Fan Amp and nothing happened.But then, I traced the circuit and found the control signal passed through a small component also mounted to the heat sink, which I couldn't identify. So on a whim, I shorted across this component... and my fan started running!My best guess is that this component is a thermal cut off switch. Built to burn out if the heat sink gets too hot. (Now, they could have put in something with a reset button, but then they couldn't sell an expensive replacement part.)I decided to replace the unknown part with a 10 K ohm resistor. It works with the new Mosfet just like new. I don't know if the original Mosfet was even bad... probably just the 'strange' part burned out. But since it is working, I didn't bother swapping back the old part to test it.I'm going to look to see if I can find a replacement thermal cut-off component, but until then... it works!Here are the steps:1. Follow the excellent pictures from Solara's post to remove the fan amp.2. Remove the white plastic cover from the fan amp.3. Unsolder the 3 connections on one end of the circuit board and the two connections on the other end. (Melt the solder while gently lifting the circuit board and work your way around making a millimeter progress or so at each connection until all are free.)4. Remove the screw holding down both components to the heat sink.5. Remove the 'strange' component (the one with two leads).6. If needed, replace the Mosfet... you may not need to. If you do replace it, use thermal grease. The whole heat sink gets REALLY hot... you want good conductivity. You can probably get thermal grease from Radio Shack.7. Tighten the screw back down. If you replaced the Mosfet, you may need to add a washer, as the replacement part is physically smaller than the original.8. Solder a wire or a resistor (0 - 10K ohm) onto the circuit board at the two-connector end (where the 'strange' component was removed). The resistor need not be physically mounted to the heat sink as was the 'strange' part.9. (Optional) solder short insulated jumper wires to each lead of the Mosfet, so if you need to disassemble this part again you won't have to repeat the pain of going through step 3.10. Solder the 3 Mosfet leads (or the jumper wires) back onto the circuit board.11. Reassemble and mount back in car.12. Better change out the filter (again, see the pictures above), since the clogged filter probably caused too little air flow, which caused the fan amp to overheat, causing the thermal fuse to blow in the first place. (I think I'll try using some material from a home furnace filter, under $2, stuffed into the original plastic frame rather than pay $20+ for the replacement part.)13. Test it out... hope it works for you!14. Legal disclaimer... how stupid that lawyers have forced us into this... the 'strange' part may be crucial to the safe operation of this system. By removing it, you may be placing property and perhaps lives at stake. I do not know the original purpose of this part. Its removal may burn out the whole electronics section of your car. It may allow the fan amp part to overheat and melt the surrounding parts or even start a fire. It may void your vehicle's warranty. (If you believe in chaos theory, it may cause world war 3.) Concern over these effects could raise your blood pressure and perhaps cause a heart attack and possible death. On the other hand, it may just work. But then, I traced the circuit and found the control signal passed through a small component also mounted to the heat sink, which I couldn't identify. So on a whim, I shorted across this component... and my fan started running!

My best guess is that this component is a thermal cut off switch. Built to burn out if the heat sink gets too hot. (Now, they could have put in something with a reset button, but then they couldn't sell an expensive replacement part.)

I decided to replace the unknown part with a 10 K ohm resistor. It works with the new Mosfet just like new. I don't know if the original Mosfet was even bad... probably just the 'strange' part burned out. But since it is working, I didn't bother swapping back the old part to test it.

I'm going to look to see if I can find a replacement thermal cut-off component, but until then... it works!

Here are the steps:
1. Follow the excellent pictures from Solara's post to remove the fan amp.
2. Remove the white plastic cover from the fan amp.
3. Unsolder the 3 connections on one end of the circuit board and the two connections on the other end. (Melt the solder while gently lifting the circuit board and work your way around making a millimeter progress or so at each connection until all are free.)
4. Remove the screw holding down both components to the heat sink.
5. Remove the 'strange' component (the one with two leads).
6. If needed, replace the Mosfet... you may not need to. If you do replace it, use thermal grease. The whole heat sink gets REALLY hot... you want good conductivity. You can probably get thermal grease from Radio Shack.
7. Tighten the screw back down. If you replaced the Mosfet, you may need to add a washer, as the replacement part is physically smaller than the original.
8. Solder a wire or a resistor (0 - 10K ohm) onto the circuit board at the two-connector end (where the 'strange' component was removed). The resistor need not be physically mounted to the heat sink as was the 'strange' part.
9. (Optional) solder short insulated jumper wires to each lead of the Mosfet, so if you need to disassemble this part again you won't have to repeat the pain of going through step 3.
10. Solder the 3 Mosfet leads (or the jumper wires) back onto the circuit board.
11. Reassemble and mount back in car.
12. Better change out the filter (again, see the pictures above), since the clogged filter probably caused too little air flow, which caused the fan amp to overheat, causing the thermal fuse to blow in the first place. (I think I'll try using some material from a home furnace filter, under $2, stuffed into the original plastic frame rather than pay $20+ for the replacement part.)
13. Test it out... hope it works for you!
14. Legal disclaimer... how stupid that lawyers have forced us into this... the 'strange' part may be crucial to the safe operation of this system. By removing it, you may be placing property and perhaps lives at stake. I do not know the original purpose of this part. Its removal may burn out the whole electronics section of your car. It may allow the fan amp part to overheat and melt the surrounding parts or even start a fire. It may void your vehicle's warranty. (If you believe in chaos theory, it may cause world war 3.) Concern over these effects could raise your blood pressure and perhaps cause a heart attack and possible death. On the other hand, it may just work.
]]> mvt 2008-11-03T06:35:56-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=3925689#3925689 I am new to this!I have a 98 Pathfinder and recently the blower motor will just shut off. The next time I get in it the fan does not always come back on. I changed the fan control knob and that did not do the trick. I put a meter on the wires at the fan and when the fan is working my voltage is good, and when the fan is not working the voltage is not there (so I assume the fan is still good).Any Ideas I have a 98 Pathfinder and recently the blower motor will just shut off. The next time I get in it the fan does not always come back on. I changed the fan control knob and that did not do the trick. I put a meter on the wires at the fan and when the fan is working my voltage is good, and when the fan is not working the voltage is not there (so I assume the fan is still good?).
Any Ideas? ]]> mnhunter 2008-08-18T12:32:24-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=3799434#3799434 Thanks for the great information. The dealer here on St. Croix wanted to replace the entire contral assembly for $1000. I ordered the AMP and filters on the Courtesy Parts website for $110.00 and had the problem fixed in ten minutes. If you ever get to St. Croix I'll buy you lunch and dinner!! bstaron 2008-07-07T11:07:03-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=3759592#3759592 I would say yes for the last two questions posted. But again, I'm not an expert by any means.Andrew Andrew ]]> Andrew224 2008-06-23T10:03:25-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=3757557#3757557 What if I have power to both the fan amp and the blower motor Do you sitll think it would be the fan amp As of right now I have no fan at all but the digital controls in the dash still work.thanks
thanks ]]> adrianb 2008-06-22T14:18:13-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=3741942#3741942 I have a 97 QX4. I replaced the blower motor in October of 07 and now it's doing the same thing. Sometimes it wont blow at all and other times it blows real hard. When it wont blow at all, usually if I give it a good tap under the passenger side dash the blower will kick on and blow great untill I turn my car off. When I start it back up sometimes it comes on full blast other times nothing untill I give it a wack! Do you think it could be the amp thing you guys are talking about Please help I get very grouchy when I am hot! In fact I am sure people who commit road rage have no ac! Thanks for any help at all!
Thanks for any help at all! ]]> henderson888 2008-06-16T16:14:34-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=3715232#3715232 thank you very much!! ]]> GTIRNN14 2008-06-06T15:18:18-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=3715004#3715004 Instructions can be found heRE:http://www.courtesyparts.com/i....html http://www.courtesyparts.com/i....html

]]> Transtek 2008-06-06T13:37:02-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=3713564#3713564 I picked up a set of filters for a 1998 pathy, removed the glovebox and then couldnt find the filters. I put it all back together and figures id tackle it another day. I searched the net and found this thread. wow what a relif. - nico rocksAnyhow the filters i picked up are not OEM so i dont have the "cut the box" instructions. can you post up that part of the instructions- this isnt some thing i want to mess up on. thanks! Modified by GTIRNN14 at 9:25 AM 6/6/2008 Anyhow the filters i picked up are not OEM so i dont have the "cut the box" instructions. can you post up that part of the instructions??- this isnt some thing i want to mess up on.

thanks!


Modified by GTIRNN14 at 9:25 AM 6/6/2008 ]]> GTIRNN14 2008-06-05T23:22:17-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=3707138#3707138 Thank you all for this post!!!!I think I have the same problem with the Fan Amp. I have taken everything apart. I get voltage at the fan amp, not at the fan motor. I've checked the fuse and the relay, they are fine. Looks like I'll but the replacement fan amp tomorrow.thanks,Brian I think I have the same problem with the Fan Amp. I have taken everything apart. I get voltage at the fan amp, not at the fan motor. I've checked the fuse and the relay, they are fine. Looks like I'll but the replacement fan amp tomorrow.

thanks,
Brian
]]> lofquist 2008-06-03T21:39:45-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=3622366#3622366 Quote, originally posted by Buzzman Not all vehicles come standard equipped with cabin air filters. The 02 Pathfinder being one of them. It does need to have the slot cut out. Hope this helps, and that it's not too late for my input.Thanks for confirming that for me I was begining to think that I had cut something I wasn't supposed to. Quote, originally posted by Buzzman raquo;
Not all vehicles come standard equipped with cabin air filters. The 02 Pathfinder being one of them. It does need to have the slot cut out. Hope this helps, and that it's not too late for my input.

Thanks for confirming that for me I was begining to think that I had cut something I wasn't supposed to. ]]> PivoArch 2008-05-05T07:10:59-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=3617589#3617589 Quote, originally posted by Andrew224 You are looking in the wrong place. I have no idea what you just cut. You should not have to cut anything! Like the engine air filter, these filters were designed to be replaced fairly often. You should only have to pop one small clip off to get them out and replace them.There should be nothing that needs to be cut. The filters are just to the left of that amp. you replaced. There is a small metal clip that needs to be popped off with a common screwdriver and the filters will slide out one at a time. They are stacked on top of each other. You can see the grey plastic edge of the filter next to the area where you were just looking. The filters may even have a part number printed along the edge. The filters fit in so that the air passes through them left to right and you will be looking at the skinny, hard plastic edge.See my post above. Not all vehicles come standard equipped with cabin air filters. The 02 Pathfinder being one of them. It does need to have the slot cut out. Hope this helps, and that it's not too late for my input. I ordered my filter kit from Courtesyparts.com by the way. Quick delivery and much cheaper than my local dealer. Quote, originally posted by Andrew224 raquo;You are looking in the wrong place. I have no idea what you just cut. You should not have to cut anything! Like the engine air filter, these filters were designed to be replaced fairly often. You should only have to pop one small clip off to get them out and replace them.

There should be nothing that needs to be cut. The filters are just to the left of that amp. you replaced. There is a small metal clip that needs to be popped off with a common screwdriver and the filters will slide out one at a time. They are stacked on top of each other. You can see the grey plastic edge of the filter next to the area where you were just looking. The filters may even have a part number printed along the edge. The filters fit in so that the air passes through them left to right and you will be looking at the skinny, hard plastic edge.

See my post above. Not all vehicles come standard equipped with cabin air filters. The 02 Pathfinder being one of them. It does need to have the slot cut out. Hope this helps, and that it's not too late for my input. I ordered my filter kit from Courtesyparts.com by the way. Quick delivery and much cheaper than my local dealer. ]]> Buzzman 2008-05-02T22:39:33-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=3617567#3617567 Quote, originally posted by PivoArch Ok, The instructions that come with those filters say to cut the black box that would contain the filters in order to replace the ones that are in there. (Is that common) When I cut open the box there were no filters in it, so I was just curious if I am in the right place or am I completely off base trying to replace the in-cabin filtersThe Pathy does not come standard with cabin filters. If you want to install them, then yes, you do have to cut/remove the plastic knockouts where the filters go. I had to do that on my 02 Pathfinder. The knockouts are there to prevent air leaks when there are no filters installed. The filters I bought by the way, came with clips. Quote, originally posted by PivoArch raquo;Ok, The instructions that come with those filters say to cut the black box that would contain the filters in order to replace the ones that are in there. (Is that common?) When I cut open the box there were no filters in it, so I was just curious if I am in the right place or am I completely off base trying to replace the in-cabin filters?

The Pathy does not come standard with cabin filters. If you want to install them, then yes, you do have to cut/remove the plastic knockouts where the filters go. I had to do that on my 02 Pathfinder. The knockouts are there to prevent air leaks when there are no filters installed. The filters I bought by the way, came with clips. ]]> Buzzman 2008-05-02T22:32:01-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=3617228#3617228 Awesome post Solara! You just took all the guess work out of this DIY fix.The filters I got didn't come with stickers or a new clip. Maybe that's why the numbers were different You're right, it's best to call to speak with a live person to ensure you get the right parts.Happy motoring!Andrew The filters I got didn't come with stickers or a new clip. Maybe that's why the numbers were different? You're right, it's best to call to speak with a live person to ensure you get the right parts.

Happy motoring!

Andrew ]]> Andrew224 2008-05-02T20:00:21-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=3616076#3616076 Because of this thread and Andrew224's detail explaination....I've saved at least $700 from the Inifiniti dealer by fixing my fan blower not working problem. So I decided to take pictures of each step to help out this very comment problem of QX4/Pathy and hope those who are not really CAR friendly ppl can do this by themself.OK...my case is exactly like Andrew224. 50,000 miles 2002 QX4's fan blower decided not to work 1 day. (wife's car). I have test the AC button and did hear it "clicks" on and off. I have try to turn on full blast on the fan but nothing happen. So that fits perfectly like what Andrew mentioned above, I have to replace the Fan Control AMP. I am sure if your fan is blowing full blast without slowing down or adjustment, the same problem occur.Parts....ordered (by phone) @ Courtesy Parts....just like Andrew and other mentioned...probably the cheapest area for genuien Nissan parts. I've talked to JOE there and ordered part # 27761-70T03 (Module Assy-Pow) . Also, I might as well change the in-cabin filter, however, the parts number listed above does not match what Joe had found. He said, this is a direct fit to QX4 and Pathy and the filter parts # is 999m1-VP003.Total amount, shipped to Chicago area, within 2 days....$158 something. Courtesy Nissan - http://www.courtesyparts.com/You should CALL instead of order online, cause I can't find the filter online and I prefer to talk to real person to confirm my order instead of a computer.OK...got the parts within 2 days...but I think anyone before ordering the parts, please follow my steps and see you are capable to do all these installation/removal by yourself. Not everyone is very car/machine friendly, so you might need to ask someone that know what he is doing or....saving money is not your option, you have to let the dealer to make your hard earning money. But honestly, I think this is a stage 3 (out of 10) DIY fix that even a 10 years old can do (like someone mentioned above...) So...follow these steps and see you can get to the stage that you can find the Fan Control AMP and remove it. If you can remove that AMP, then you can go order the parts and install it yourself.Yes...your car can still run without the amp, just don't turn on your climate control and HOPE it is not 20 degree outside (you don't need AC, but you do need HEAT...)Ok...here are the parts and how they look (and their parts number on box)OK....step 1, open glove box, remove the stringer on side, simple stepStep 2...Flip down the 2 lower plastic pins, then yank them toward center. Pull harder and both pins should be out completely.Step 3....remove 2 screws and get that plastic wood panel out of the way.Step 4...remove all 7 screws.Step 5...remove 2 more side screwsStep 6....if 1st time removing this panel, need to use some force to swing it out...don't be afraid, it is not that hard to pull it out.Step 7....panel should be down.Step 8....remove glove box light fixture, snap and pull, may be check the bulb as well, mine blew long time ago and it is the perfect time to replace that.Step 9...you should see the whole picture, the FAN AMP and the In Cabine Filter...item # 1, 2 and 3.Step 10...unplug fan amp wire plugStep 11...remove 2 screws. The AMP should be about to slide out without any trouble. If you have the new AMP parts, replace it in reverse order.Step 12....if you have the new AMP in...it is a good idea to start your car and try out the climate control system JUST to make sure the AMP does take care of your problem (mine does...awesome)Step 13....remove filter clip at the bottom. Slide the lower panel 1st, then the upper panel.Step 14....use the already came with clip (with the new filter), plug in new filers, clip in new clip....Step 15....if you want, you can fill out the "Date tag" and the filter notes and stick them onto the panel like mine. It is totally optional, not required but it is there, might as well do it...Ths is it...follow all the steps in reverse order and you are done. This site and Andrew224 (and others) just saved me $700 because the local dealer said they have to do all the testing, this and that....total was $900 plus TAX and I have to leave the car for 2 days there and they don't have any opening untill early MAY...Good to save money...and better, good to share with others and help others to save more money... OK...my case is exactly like Andrew224. 50,000 miles 2002 QX4's fan blower decided not to work 1 day. (wife's car). I have test the AC button and did hear it "clicks" on and off. I have try to turn on full blast on the fan but nothing happen. So that fits perfectly like what Andrew mentioned above, I have to replace the Fan Control AMP. I am sure if your fan is blowing full blast without slowing down or adjustment, the same problem occur.

Parts....ordered (by phone) @ Courtesy Parts....just like Andrew and other mentioned...probably the cheapest area for genuien Nissan parts. I've talked to JOE there and ordered part # 27761-70T03 (Module Assy-Pow) . Also, I might as well change the in-cabin filter, however, the parts number listed above does not match what Joe had found. He said, this is a direct fit to QX4 and Pathy and the filter parts # is 999m1-VP003.

Total amount, shipped to Chicago area, within 2 days....$158 something.

Courtesy Nissan - http://www.courtesyparts.com/

You should CALL instead of order online, cause I can't find the filter online and I prefer to talk to real person to confirm my order instead of a computer.

OK...got the parts within 2 days...but I think anyone before ordering the parts, please follow my steps and see you are capable to do all these installation/removal by yourself. Not everyone is very car/machine friendly, so you might need to ask someone that know what he is doing or....saving money is not your option, you have to let the dealer to make your hard earning money. But honestly, I think this is a stage 3 (out of 10) DIY fix that even a 10 years old can do (like someone mentioned above...) So...follow these steps and see you can get to the stage that you can find the Fan Control AMP and remove it. If you can remove that AMP, then you can go order the parts and install it yourself.

Yes...your car can still run without the amp, just don't turn on your climate control and HOPE it is not 20 degree outside (you don't need AC, but you do need HEAT...)

Ok...here are the parts and how they look (and their parts number on box)

OK....step 1, open glove box, remove the stringer on side, simple step

Step 2...Flip down the 2 lower plastic pins, then yank them toward center. Pull harder and both pins should be out completely.

Step 3....remove 2 screws and get that plastic wood panel out of the way.

Step 4...remove all 7 screws.

Step 5...remove 2 more side screws

Step 6....if 1st time removing this panel, need to use some force to swing it out...don't be afraid, it is not that hard to pull it out.

Step 7....panel should be down.

Step 8....remove glove box light fixture, snap and pull, may be check the bulb as well, mine blew long time ago and it is the perfect time to replace that.

Step 9...you should see the whole picture, the FAN AMP and the In Cabine Filter...item # 1, 2 and 3.

Step 10...unplug fan amp wire plug

Step 11...remove 2 screws. The AMP should be about to slide out without any trouble. If you have the new AMP parts, replace it in reverse order.

Step 12....if you have the new AMP in...it is a good idea to start your car and try out the climate control system JUST to make sure the AMP does take care of your problem (mine does...awesome)

Step 13....remove filter clip at the bottom. Slide the lower panel 1st, then the upper panel.

Step 14....use the already came with clip (with the new filter), plug in new filers, clip in new clip....

Step 15....if you want, you can fill out the "Date tag" and the filter notes and stick them onto the panel like mine. It is totally optional, not required but it is there, might as well do it...

Ths is it...follow all the steps in reverse order and you are done. This site and Andrew224 (and others) just saved me $700 because the local dealer said they have to do all the testing, this and that....total was $900 plus TAX and I have to leave the car for 2 days there and they don't have any opening untill early MAY...

Good to save money...and better, good to share with others and help others to save more money...

]]> Solara 2008-05-02T12:30:38-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=3597456#3597456 Thanks - This helped out a lot. I successfully replaced the resistor and motor and fan speed once again works fine. But as I was searching for the cabin air filter I accidentally broke the intake door(flap) that opens and closes up in the blower motor casing. Now i assuming it won't open and close when operating the heating/ac. Does anyone know if this will be an issue for me as far as keeping elements out of the cabin Has anyone had this problem Can it be fixed and is it even worth fixingPaul Paul ]]> paulny 2008-04-26T09:12:25-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=3529416#3529416 Quote, originally posted by Komedy hi anyone know if 27761-70T03 Module Assy-Pow will work for the 2001 Pathfinder LE modelI would think it is the same part, it's basically the same truck. I suggest that you call your local Nissan Dealership's Service Dept and verify as this part seems to be a non-returnable part (so don't get the wrong one!).Quote, originally posted by InfinQX4 Can the in cabin air filter be replaced without taking out the blower (2000 QX4) I know it's not a big deal to pull the blower as I have replaced it already, but didn't think to check the filter while I was in there. Spaced out I guess... I can only speak for '01s and newer as that is the model that I have. I've never worked on a '00.Anyone here with a 2000 or older QX care to chime inQuote, originally posted by PivoArch Ok, so I go the Module Amp in and that fixed the fan problem, however the Nissan dealers near me gave me in-cabin filters with the part number 099M1-VP003. The instructions that come with those filters say to cut the black box that would contain the filters in order to replace the ones that are in there. (Is that common) When I cut open the box there were no filters in it, so I was just curious if I am in the right place or am I completely off base trying to replace the in-cabin filtersAfter looking into this, I think these directions are for models that were not originally equiped with an in-cabin air filter. You actually cut out a hole to put the filters in.Andrew Quote, originally posted by Komedy raquo;hi anyone know if 27761-70T03 Module Assy-Pow will work for the 2001 Pathfinder LE model??

I would think it is the same part, it's basically the same truck. I suggest that you call your local Nissan Dealership's Service Dept and verify as this part seems to be a non-returnable part (so don't get the wrong one!).

Quote, originally posted by InfinQX4 raquo;

Can the in cabin air filter be replaced without taking out the blower (2000 QX4)? I know it's not a big deal to pull the blower as I have replaced it already, but didn't think to check the filter while I was in there. Spaced out I guess...

I can only speak for '01s and newer as that is the model that I have. I've never worked on a '00.

Anyone here with a 2000 or older QX care to chime in?

Quote, originally posted by PivoArch raquo;

Ok, so I go the Module Amp in and that fixed the fan problem, however the Nissan dealers near me gave me in-cabin filters with the part number 099M1-VP003. The instructions that come with those filters say to cut the black box that would contain the filters in order to replace the ones that are in there. (Is that common?) When I cut open the box there were no filters in it, so I was just curious if I am in the right place or am I completely off base trying to replace the in-cabin filters?

After looking into this, I think these directions are for models that were not originally equiped with an in-cabin air filter. You actually cut out a hole to put the filters in.

Andrew ]]> Andrew224 2008-04-02T22:53:04-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=3529196#3529196 Can the in cabin air filter be replaced without taking out the blower (2000 QX4) I know it's not a big deal to pull the blower as I have replaced it already, but didn't think to check the filter while I was in there. Spaced out I guess... ]]> InfinQX4 2008-04-02T21:24:03-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=3525259#3525259 hi anyone know if 27761-70T03 Module Assy-Pow will work for the 2001 Pathfinder LE model Komedy 2008-04-01T20:17:25-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=3489566#3489566 This seems to be a common problem with Infinities / Nissans. It's just a weak point in the A/C system. I would say it's safe to say that it is the same issue.As far as where it's located, I really couldn't tell you. When I started poking around, I got a service manual and it walked me through it. I would suggest the same. If your mechanically inclined, it couldn't hurt to take a look yourself. Most likely it's behind the glovebox and it'll have a wiring harness going into it and it'll probably be screwed in with a couple screws. The part has a plastic top where the wiring harness goes into it but the rest of it is metal and is kinda long and vented to dissapate heat (as this part heats up frequently and leads to it eventually failing).But like I said, I'm just an amature who figured it out on my own with the help of a service manual and the input of some other people here on this board.Good luck.Andrew As far as where it's located, I really couldn't tell you. When I started poking around, I got a service manual and it walked me through it. I would suggest the same. If your mechanically inclined, it couldn't hurt to take a look yourself. Most likely it's behind the glovebox and it'll have a wiring harness going into it and it'll probably be screwed in with a couple screws. The part has a plastic top where the wiring harness goes into it but the rest of it is metal and is kinda long and vented to dissapate heat (as this part heats up frequently and leads to it eventually failing).

But like I said, I'm just an amature who figured it out on my own with the help of a service manual and the input of some other people here on this board.

Good luck.

Andrew ]]> Andrew224 2008-03-21T11:34:12-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=3488295#3488295 Do you know if this same issue can happen on the i35. My AC Fan just stopped working the other day. If so is the amp behind the glove box there as well geodala63 2008-03-20T22:51:09-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=3469943#3469943 You are looking in the wrong place. I have no idea what you just cut. You should not have to cut anything! Like the engine air filter, these filters were designed to be replaced fairly often. You should only have to pop one small clip off to get them out and replace them.The in-cabin air filters that I use are in Nissan Filter Kit 27275-2W625.There should be nothing that needs to be cut. The filters are just to the left of that amp. you replaced. There is a small metal clip that needs to be popped off with a common screwdriver and the filters will slide out one at a time. They are stacked on top of each other. You can see the grey plastic edge of the filter next to the area where you were just looking. The filters may even have a part number printed along the edge. The filters fit in so that the air passes through them left to right and you will be looking at the skinny, hard plastic edge.Let me know if you get it. If not, I can take a picture and send it to you. If that dash panel behing the glove box is out of the way as it would have to be to change the amp. It should take you no more than 15 seconds to switch out these filters. You should use no other tool other than a common screwdriver to do some gentle prying to get the clip off.I hope this helps.Andrew The in-cabin air filters that I use are in Nissan Filter Kit 27275-2W625.

There should be nothing that needs to be cut. The filters are just to the left of that amp. you replaced. There is a small metal clip that needs to be popped off with a common screwdriver and the filters will slide out one at a time. They are stacked on top of each other. You can see the grey plastic edge of the filter next to the area where you were just looking. The filters may even have a part number printed along the edge. The filters fit in so that the air passes through them left to right and you will be looking at the skinny, hard plastic edge.

Let me know if you get it. If not, I can take a picture and send it to you. If that dash panel behing the glove box is out of the way as it would have to be to change the amp. It should take you no more than 15 seconds to switch out these filters. You should use no other tool other than a common screwdriver to do some gentle prying to get the clip off.

I hope this helps.

Andrew ]]> Andrew224 2008-03-14T17:12:09-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=3457028#3457028 Ok, so I go the Module Amp in and that fixed the fan problem, however the Nissan dealers near me gave me in-cabin filters with the part number 099M1-VP003. The instructions that come with those filters say to cut the black box that would contain the filters in order to replace the ones that are in there. (Is that common) When I cut open the box there were no filters in it, so I was just curious if I am in the right place or am I completely off base trying to replace the in-cabin filters PivoArch 2008-03-11T07:14:19-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=3439244#3439244 Thanks for this forum I'm hoping it is going to save me a few hundred on this fix. I just want to be sure I am getting the right thing I have an 02 Pathy with the climate control system and my fans are now stuck on high. So, I would need to buy and amp right The resistor is for the manual controlled HVAC.Also, where do you guys get your part from the dealer near me wants $150 for the amp. I managed to find it on courtesyparts.com for $110, just wondering if anyone has ordered from that site before Here is the link to the part I am going to order if someone could let me know that it is the right part.http://http://www.courtesypart...t_Cod e=27761-70T03Thanks,Rob Pivo Modified by PivoArch at 8:14 AM 3/6/2008 Also, where do you guys get your part from the dealer near me wants $150 for the amp. I managed to find it on courtesyparts.com for $110, just wondering if anyone has ordered from that site before? Here is the link to the part I am going to order if someone could let me know that it is the right part.

http://http://www.courtesypart...t_Cod e=27761-70T03

Thanks,

Rob Pivo

Modified by PivoArch at 8:14 AM 3/6/2008 ]]> PivoArch 2008-03-05T13:40:13-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=3335180#3335180 I posted step by step instructions on "how to" in this thread, about 6 posts into it.Andrew Andrew ]]> Andrew224 2008-01-30T23:12:04-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=3333754#3333754 how did you do the repair mine just started running on high today and won't shut off chlobart 2008-01-30T15:27:52-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=3326186#3326186 Andrew - you just made my xmas card list. Replacement took 20 minutes and everything is working great. Amp was $133 out the door and you saved me at least $100.Thanks again. Replacement took 20 minutes and everything is working great. Amp was $133 out the door and you saved me at least $100.

Thanks again. ]]> tjjarc 2008-01-28T06:21:49-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=289709;postid=3323871#3323871 Nope, left the battery alone. Just make sure the ignition is off.Andrew Andrew ]]> Andrew224 2008-01-27T11:28:37-08:00