]]> mattblancarte 2009-11-18T14:35:48-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5219990#5219990 I want to eventually. It wont be that white but it's tempting as i really like the way it looks.If anyone has ideas or criticism about that oil pan design thus far please pitch in. I'm in unknown waters with this and only going off designs i've been reading about for a while. My plan so far is to put trap doors where the OEM pan walls used to be. And i'll only have the trap doors as high as the stock windage tray. ABove that will be a piece of steel with a couple large holes drilled into it similar to the extensions on the stock pan, although these were on a much smaller scale without trap doors.
If anyone has ideas or criticism about that oil pan design thus far please pitch in. I'm in unknown waters with this and only going off designs i've been reading about for a while.

My plan so far is to put trap doors where the OEM pan walls used to be. And i'll only have the trap doors as high as the stock windage tray. ABove that will be a piece of steel with a couple large holes drilled into it similar to the extensions on the stock pan, although these were on a much smaller scale without trap doors. ]]> CrazyTrance 2009-11-17T13:05:55-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5219553#5219553 Quote, originally posted by CrazyTrance No flake. It's BMW Alpine White III with gold pearl in the clear coat. My personal touch. WOW! It looks so yummy. Are you going to paint the whole car, and if so, what color Quote, originally posted by CrazyTrance raquo;No flake. It's BMW Alpine White III with gold pearl in the clear coat. My personal touch.

WOW! It looks so yummy. Are you going to paint the whole car, and if so, what color? ]]> justinedible4 2009-11-17T10:21:57-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5219236#5219236 Did some fab work on the oil pan today. Started mocking up the extensions. Made some measurements and i think i'll have around 30 more cubic inches of space in there. (very roughly).Anyways here's what i've got so far.. Anyways here's what i've got so far..

]]> CrazyTrance 2009-11-17T07:12:49-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5214668#5214668 No flake. It's BMW Alpine White III with gold pearl in the clear coat. My personal touch. ]]> CrazyTrance 2009-11-15T00:18:03-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5214661#5214661 is that a bit of metal flake in it
is that a bit of metal flake in it? ]]> justinedible4 2009-11-15T00:01:13-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5214658#5214658 Pictars

]]> CrazyTrance 2009-11-14T23:58:33-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5209444#5209444 Yeah i was just reading up on the issue because I'm going to be pissed if this happens. I don't need anymore setbacks.Some people are getting the Error code 8 or something like that which is basically the same as it being crazy lean. Some people were getting it to work by doing a bunch of free-air calibrations, and by a bunch i mean from 6 or 7 up to 20 in a row.. Here's the link i was reading.http://www.innovatemotorsports...=4286Is that the problem you guys were seeing I only read basically the first and last page.. Some people are getting the Error code 8 or something like that which is basically the same as it being crazy lean. Some people were getting it to work by doing a bunch of free-air calibrations, and by a bunch i mean from 6 or 7 up to 20 in a row..

Here's the link i was reading.
http://www.innovatemotorsports...=4286

Is that the problem you guys were seeing? I only read basically the first and last page.. ]]> CrazyTrance 2009-11-12T08:59:29-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5209061#5209061 Quote, originally posted by tmorgan4 Sometimes it would work...somtimes it just sits at 22.4 AFR. Exact problem i had with mine, i messed with it long enough for me not to trust whatever readings i got out of it.I dont know if i posted before, but i ended up with the aem uego, it still plugs into a lap top for dataloging and worked fine from start up, and continues to work fine.I hope you have better luck than me . Quote, originally posted by tmorgan4 raquo;Sometimes it would work...somtimes it just sits at 22.4 AFR.

Exact problem i had with mine, i messed with it long enough for me not to trust whatever readings i got out of it.

I dont know if i posted before, but i ended up with the aem uego, it still plugs into a lap top for dataloging and worked fine from start up, and continues to work fine.

I hope you have better luck than me .
]]> gs14racer 2009-11-12T04:23:22-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5208929#5208929 I really thought the Innovative widebands were some of the better units when I got mine too. I never even realized that other people had issues with them until I read this thread. Oh well..just install it correctly and hope it works fine. tmorgan4 2009-11-12T00:02:01-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5208830#5208830 Haha thats what happens though when you use it man. Stuff breaks!Dangit... I hope i dont have problems with mine.. Maybe i'll try and put some extra shielding around the wires or something to help with this issue. Seems like everyone i've talked to that has done a VH swap says thumbs down to innovate. I was under the impression they were the best. Dangit... I hope i dont have problems with mine.. Maybe i'll try and put some extra shielding around the wires or something to help with this issue. Seems like everyone i've talked to that has done a VH swap says thumbs down to innovate. I was under the impression they were the best. ]]> CrazyTrance 2009-11-11T22:45:56-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5208765#5208765 Nice! I love how all these projects turn out like this (mine included). Just an engine swap to start...and then it all goes downhill. Unfortunately I had problems with my Innovative LC-1 (purchased brand new) as well. Sometimes it would work...somtimes it just sits at 22.4 AFR. I did notice a few of the wires being connected to the O2 poorly though so there's a good chance that's my problem. Might as well run it if you've already got it. Just an engine swap to start...and then it all goes downhill. Unfortunately I had problems with my Innovative LC-1 (purchased brand new) as well. Sometimes it would work...somtimes it just sits at 22.4 AFR. I did notice a few of the wires being connected to the O2 poorly though so there's a good chance that's my problem. Might as well run it if you've already got it. ]]> tmorgan4 2009-11-11T22:11:41-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5208541#5208541 Primed the bay today. Gonna sand the primer with 400 and spray base coat and clear on Friday.Also got the bay all stitch welded up. Also got the bay all stitch welded up.

]]> CrazyTrance 2009-11-11T20:31:33-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5193228#5193228 So do it!Slow progress is going on... managed to clear the bay of most things. Forgot how big of a pain it is to get the main harness out of there with those fuse blocks.Got it all degreased, now just need to wipe everything down with some lacquer thinner and scuff it all up. Along with some other misc. things.. Slow progress is going on... managed to clear the bay of most things. Forgot how big of a pain it is to get the main harness out of there with those fuse blocks.

Got it all degreased, now just need to wipe everything down with some lacquer thinner and scuff it all up. Along with some other misc. things..

]]> CrazyTrance 2009-11-04T18:47:28-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5184444#5184444 This is the third vh swap build thread I have read through and I have to say that every time I get done reading I want to do this swap more and more. IMO I think this swap is a TON better than any turbo setup on a KA or SR even though VH might be more expensive.I have subscribed. I have subscribed. ]]> justinedible4 2009-10-31T13:40:06-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5157448#5157448 I used a Snap-On smoke tester to pressurize intake and check for leaks... none were present. Good enough for me... SuperHatch 2009-10-20T10:09:30-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5157377#5157377 Ok thanks, was mainly wondering if people were having vacuum leaks going that route. CrazyTrance 2009-10-20T09:33:42-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5157329#5157329 Quote, originally posted by CrazyTrance Just got some 94-96 rails and injectors today. Along with the injector harness and the little rubber seals that go on the lower runners. Now i've read the couple threads that talk about doing this conversion and i'm not sure whether I should use the 96 lower seals on the 92 runners (as their outer diameter is a little smaller) or if i should use the 92 seals as you guys were thinking that by lowering the rail down it will seal fine. Has anyone had any issues doing thisUse the old style lower seals, not the new ones. Use two thin washers between the rails and lower runners at the mounting points instead of the thick black isolator. That's all it takes... Quote, originally posted by CrazyTrance raquo;Just got some 94-96 rails and injectors today. Along with the injector harness and the little rubber seals that go on the lower runners.

Now i've read the couple threads that talk about doing this conversion and i'm not sure whether I should use the 96 lower seals on the 92 runners (as their outer diameter is a little smaller) or if i should use the 92 seals as you guys were thinking that by lowering the rail down it will seal fine. Has anyone had any issues doing this?

Use the old style lower seals, not the new ones. Use two thin washers between the rails and lower runners at the mounting points instead of the thick black isolator. That's all it takes... ]]> SuperHatch 2009-10-20T09:12:26-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5157183#5157183 Nobody I thought a couple of you guys on here had done this CrazyTrance 2009-10-20T07:49:04-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5155488#5155488 Just got some 94-96 rails and injectors today. Along with the injector harness and the little rubber seals that go on the lower runners. Now i've read the couple threads that talk about doing this conversion and i'm not sure whether I should use the 96 lower seals on the 92 runners (as their outer diameter is a little smaller) or if i should use the 92 seals as you guys were thinking that by lowering the rail down it will seal fine. Has anyone had any issues doing this Now i've read the couple threads that talk about doing this conversion and i'm not sure whether I should use the 96 lower seals on the 92 runners (as their outer diameter is a little smaller) or if i should use the 92 seals as you guys were thinking that by lowering the rail down it will seal fine. Has anyone had any issues doing this? ]]> CrazyTrance 2009-10-19T15:45:34-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5143524#5143524 Also. Some recent concerns regarding the mazworx ps kit have come up as there were no instructions or even a diagram that came with it.1. Are these fittings even going to hold the pressure As some have mentioned these arent PS fittings.. I'm new to these AN fittings... so any input here would be awesome.2. The fitting i'm assuming i'm supposed to use for the pump side of the high pressure line bottoms out before it even gets close to their "supplied seal".... wtf.Jerry do you have any info on this 1. Are these fittings even going to hold the pressure? As some have mentioned these arent PS fittings.. I'm new to these AN fittings... so any input here would be awesome.

2. The fitting i'm assuming i'm supposed to use for the pump side of the high pressure line bottoms out before it even gets close to their "supplied seal".... wtf.

Jerry do you have any info on this? ]]> CrazyTrance 2009-10-14T09:57:46-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5143107#5143107 So far i'm planing on using the stock q45 pump. I've notched the tension rod bracket to compensate for the pump. Mazworx even includes a bracket to box the cut back in ]]> CrazyTrance 2009-10-14T06:14:55-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5142976#5142976 Nice update bro.Which ps pump will you be running with the mazworx lines and such The more I drive mine the more I wish I had ps. Which ps pump will you be running with the mazworx lines and such? The more I drive mine the more I wish I had ps. ]]> 1WheelWonder 2009-10-14T04:37:10-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5142809#5142809 Quote, originally posted by gs14racer Everything looks great, except one thing the innovate wideband. I have one, and a couple people i know have them, nothing but problems, it wont connect, needs to be recalibrated constantly.go to the innovative forums and search for lc1 problems and see, these things are aparently so sensitive to electrical noise in the car, some people resorted to run a seperate battery to power them.http://www.innovatemotorsports...x.phpAfter trying to get it to work consistently for TWO weeks, i gave up on it bought an aem uego, first try worked and connected to the lap top with out any problems.good luck!!!Hmmm.... second person to tell me this.. Damnit i guess we'll see how it works. Otherwise i guess its buy a different one time. Thanks for the info though Jerry!Quote, originally posted by White Comet looking good and i like the oil pan plan but would making it out of alum maybe be a bad idea if it does hit something, the alum won't stand up to itThe plan is to raise it up enough to where it cant hit anything. But i also want to make a skid plate. And this thing is RAPIDLY turning into a track-only car with the occasional terror run around town hehe.Small update before i go to bed.. Just got done making this thing with Gunar.OEM bushing on left.. Custom bushing on right. Notice how much larger it is... yeah, that flywheel spacer was MESSED up.In action..Also... just received clutch kit in the mail today so HOPEFULLY i can get this thing rolling soon. Dont think i'll be able to work on it for at least a week though.. school is KILLING me right now. Quote, originally posted by gs14racer raquo;Everything looks great, except one thing the innovate wideband. I have one, and a couple people i know have them, nothing but problems, it wont connect, needs to be recalibrated constantly.

go to the innovative forums and search for lc1 problems and see, these things are aparently so sensitive to electrical noise in the car, some people resorted to run a seperate battery to power them.

http://www.innovatemotorsports...x.php

After trying to get it to work consistently for TWO weeks, i gave up on it bought an aem uego, first try worked and connected to the lap top with out any problems.

good luck!!!

Hmmm.... second person to tell me this.. Damnit i guess we'll see how it works. Otherwise i guess its buy a different one time. Thanks for the info though Jerry!

Quote, originally posted by White Comet raquo;

looking good and i like the oil pan plan but would making it out of alum maybe be a bad idea? if it does hit something, the alum won't stand up to it

The plan is to raise it up enough to where it cant hit anything. But i also want to make a skid plate. And this thing is RAPIDLY turning into a track-only car with the occasional terror run around town hehe.

Small update before i go to bed.. Just got done making this thing with Gunar.

OEM bushing on left.. Custom bushing on right. Notice how much larger it is... yeah, that flywheel spacer was MESSED up.

In action..

Also... just received clutch kit in the mail today so HOPEFULLY i can get this thing rolling soon. Dont think i'll be able to work on it for at least a week though.. school is KILLING me right now. ]]> CrazyTrance 2009-10-13T23:02:41-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5129929#5129929 looking good and i like the oil pan plan but would making it out of alum maybe be a bad idea if it does hit something, the alum won't stand up to it White Comet 2009-10-08T07:35:33-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5129817#5129817 Everything looks great, except one thing the innovate wideband. I have one, and a couple people i know have them, nothing but problems, it wont connect, needs to be recalibrated constantly.go to the innovative forums and search for lc1 problems and see, these things are aparently so sensitive to electrical noise in the car, some people resorted to run a seperate battery to power them.http://www.innovatemotorsports...x.phpAfter trying to get it to work consistently for TWO weeks, i gave up on it bought an aem uego, first try worked and connected to the lap top with out any problems.good luck!!! go to the innovative forums and search for lc1 problems and see, these things are aparently so sensitive to electrical noise in the car, some people resorted to run a seperate battery to power them.

http://www.innovatemotorsports...x.php

After trying to get it to work consistently for TWO weeks, i gave up on it bought an aem uego, first try worked and connected to the lap top with out any problems.

good luck!!! ]]> gs14racer 2009-10-08T06:19:57-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5128409#5128409 Got some more stuff in.. all that is holding me up now is the clutch kit and the MASS amounts of school work... supposedly FRSport was out of stock of the clutch when i ordered it.. Some PS stuff from mazworx. (smiley face unintentional)Started putting it on the car yesterday. Had to notch the hell out of my tension rod bracket But i'll box that in later.Finally man'd up and bought a wideband..Trans!A little dirty but nothing a pressure washer cant fix.Awesome shippers broke the reverse and neutral switches on it.But it came with a new starter and supposedly has under 40k on the trans. so i'm pretty stoked about it.
Some PS stuff from mazworx. (smiley face unintentional)
Started putting it on the car yesterday. Had to notch the hell out of my tension rod bracket But i'll box that in later.

Finally man'd up and bought a wideband..

Trans!

A little dirty but nothing a pressure washer cant fix.
Awesome shippers broke the reverse and neutral switches on it.
But it came with a new starter and supposedly has under 40k on the trans. so i'm pretty stoked about it. ]]> CrazyTrance 2009-10-07T17:21:09-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5126864#5126864 Quote, originally posted by kingkilburn Dry sump + skid plateThis is the best option, but unfortunately i am not baller enough to fork out that kind of money for such a setup. Especially considering the amount of money i have just spent.I've been talking to a buddy about making a completely new aluminum pan from scratch as i might be able to get the materials for super cheap and hooked up with some welding.. Not sure what i'm going to do yet. Decisions decisions. Quote, originally posted by kingkilburn raquo;Dry sump + skid plate?

This is the best option, but unfortunately i am not baller enough to fork out that kind of money for such a setup. Especially considering the amount of money i have just spent.

I've been talking to a buddy about making a completely new aluminum pan from scratch as i might be able to get the materials for super cheap and hooked up with some welding.. Not sure what i'm going to do yet. Decisions decisions. ]]> CrazyTrance 2009-10-07T08:03:19-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5126474#5126474 Dry sump + skid plate kingkilburn 2009-10-07T00:40:08-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5125322#5125322 yeah it would be really low but better the plate than the pan. volcomskater773 2009-10-06T16:41:11-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5123912#5123912 Yeah i think i am going to make a skid plate as well. The problem with making a skid plate before i modified that pan is that it would hang so low it would scrape everywhere....And with raising the engine and spacing the hood up. It's already spaced up pretty far. I think i'm going to buy a different hood that provides more clearance eventually.. We'll see how much i can get away with as it already rubs on the hood after i've cut a bunch of bracing out already. And with raising the engine and spacing the hood up. It's already spaced up pretty far. I think i'm going to buy a different hood that provides more clearance eventually.. We'll see how much i can get away with as it already rubs on the hood after i've cut a bunch of bracing out already. ]]> CrazyTrance 2009-10-06T07:37:48-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5123686#5123686 any thoughts about a skid plate to protect the pan might be worth making a mock up. or raising it like you said and using spacers to raise the hood as well. just suggestions. cant wait to see this thing running again. ]]> volcomskater773 2009-10-06T02:17:28-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=5122348#5122348 Alright, MASS UPDATE.So this summer i didn't get squat done as i was working my a** off djing and working on the base out here along with having fun with the girlfriend.Anyways, i also moved just recently so here's a few pictures for the hell of it.Here it is in it's new home, much bigger garage.One thing i did before i made the move was to fix one of my frame rails...rust.Made this snazzy little sleeve.SO. recently i just purchased a ton of parts to get this thing moving again. Pics of said parts.Ended up going with a lightweight flywheel from XTD. (12.5 lbs vs. i think double that stock = WEEEEEE)Those shirts are to help support a local crew here in MN.Also got myself a new toy. Helped me out with re-boring my flywheel spacer also. More on that later. There are a lot more parts in the mail that i havent received quite yet.Mazworx power steering line conversion (yay for PS!)ACT 6 puck unprung clutch kitMegan Racing Tension rodsInnovative LC-1 with XD-16 gaugeand most importantly a z32 Turbo trans with less than 40k miles on it.ECU tuned by mr. Carl here on NICO.So this flywheel spacer thing. You've seen pictures of it all mangled and what not. I was talking to my boss out on base and he hooked me up proper with a buddy of his thats got a little shop of his own.Making sure it's on the lathe nice and true.Ready for destruction. Homie Darren in the background.The result. If you're wondering what that step is in there it's so the bushing doesn't fall through to the other side.Here it is sitting on the back of the flywheel. Had to make sure it fits in the one i got haha.Now that we bored it out it is much larger than the bore to accept the OEM pilot bearing. What to doMAKE ONEWent to the machine shop here in Rapid and bought some bearing bronze. 9 something a pound. Bought plenty in case we mess up lol.Outside diameter will be around 23. something mm (cant remember) But inside diameter will be bored to the OEM pilot bearing specs. Which is around .626" or .629" which is just under 16mm.Plan on getting that done sometime this weekend hopefully.Oil PanI'm sick and tired of bashing my oilpan on stuff around town. I've done it twice in less than a year... and NO i will not raise the car lol. I actually want to go lower..Here's a pic of what i'm working with.My planShorten it and add extensions off the side with baffles/trap doors. If you guys have ANY input here at all please let me know as i have never done this but i've ot a rough idea on what to do...First cutFinal cutsAs you can see this thing came stock with a windage tray already in the pan. Along with another one bolted to the underside of the block. (cool)I'm going to try and keep that there while raising the bottom of the pan. But as you can see in the mext picture i've also got to cut and re-weld the pickup tube in a higher location. I'm thinking about 10-15mm of clearance between the pan will be about right. (Any input here)You can also see where i plan to ad dthe extensions off the side..So i bolted the cut up pan to the engine to see how everything sat...This last picture is of it with the engine sitting in the bay so i can see how low it's still hanging below the cross member. To me it looks to be about flush with it or it just slightly hangs below the cross member. PS: I took ALOT of pictures with the pan sitting on the engine this way as i'm sure it could help a few people out. I have yet to see a picture with the oil pan cut away and bolted to the engine on here.. So if anyone wants measurements or a different perspective chime in now while i've still got it like this.I'm thinking about putting some spacers in my engine mounts to raise the engine up a little bit as it will help with clearance of the pan, exhaust, and PS pump. Only issue is that its going to hit the hood more......SO there you have it. I will probably be posting quite a bit more pictures as stuff gets done and parts come in as i REALLY want to get this thing running soon. Want to tear up the street one more time before winter fully hits! (Even though it just snowed today lol) But i'm banking on one more dry week haha.Modified by CrazyTrance at 4:04 PM 10/5/2009 Modified by CrazyTrance at 4:16 PM 10/5/2009 So this summer i didn't get squat done as i was working my a** off djing and working on the base out here along with having fun with the girlfriend.

Anyways, i also moved just recently so here's a few pictures for the hell of it.

Here it is in it's new home, much bigger garage.

One thing i did before i made the move was to fix one of my frame rails...rust.
Made this snazzy little sleeve.

SO. recently i just purchased a ton of parts to get this thing moving again.

Pics of said parts.

Ended up going with a lightweight flywheel from XTD. (12.5 lbs vs. i think double that stock = WEEEEEE)
Those shirts are to help support a local crew here in MN.

Also got myself a new toy. Helped me out with re-boring my flywheel spacer also. More on that later.

There are a lot more parts in the mail that i havent received quite yet.

Mazworx power steering line conversion (yay for PS!)
ACT 6 puck unprung clutch kit
Megan Racing Tension rods
Innovative LC-1 with XD-16 gauge
and most importantly a z32 Turbo trans with less than 40k miles on it.
ECU tuned by mr. Carl here on NICO.

So this flywheel spacer thing. You've seen pictures of it all mangled and what not. I was talking to my boss out on base and he hooked me up proper with a buddy of his thats got a little shop of his own.

Making sure it's on the lathe nice and true.

Ready for destruction. Homie Darren in the background.

The result. If you're wondering what that step is in there it's so the bushing doesn't fall through to the other side.

Here it is sitting on the back of the flywheel. Had to make sure it fits in the one i got haha.

Now that we bored it out it is much larger than the bore to accept the OEM pilot bearing. What to do?

MAKE ONE

Went to the machine shop here in Rapid and bought some bearing bronze. 9 something a pound. Bought plenty in case we mess up lol.
Outside diameter will be around 23. something mm (cant remember) But inside diameter will be bored to the OEM pilot bearing specs. Which is around .626" or .629" which is just under 16mm.

Plan on getting that done sometime this weekend hopefully.

Oil Pan

I'm sick and tired of bashing my oilpan on stuff around town. I've done it twice in less than a year... and NO i will not raise the car lol. I actually want to go lower..

Here's a pic of what i'm working with.

My plan?

Shorten it and add extensions off the side with baffles/trap doors. If you guys have ANY input here at all please let me know as i have never done this but i've ot a rough idea on what to do...

First cut

Final cuts

As you can see this thing came stock with a windage tray already in the pan. Along with another one bolted to the underside of the block. (cool)

I'm going to try and keep that there while raising the bottom of the pan. But as you can see in the mext picture i've also got to cut and re-weld the pickup tube in a higher location. I'm thinking about 10-15mm of clearance between the pan will be about right. (Any input here??)

You can also see where i plan to ad dthe extensions off the side..

So i bolted the cut up pan to the engine to see how everything sat...

This last picture is of it with the engine sitting in the bay so i can see how low it's still hanging below the cross member. To me it looks to be about flush with it or it just slightly hangs below the cross member.

PS: I took ALOT of pictures with the pan sitting on the engine this way as i'm sure it could help a few people out. I have yet to see a picture with the oil pan cut away and bolted to the engine on here.. So if anyone wants measurements or a different perspective chime in now while i've still got it like this.

I'm thinking about putting some spacers in my engine mounts to raise the engine up a little bit as it will help with clearance of the pan, exhaust, and PS pump. Only issue is that its going to hit the hood more......

SO there you have it. I will probably be posting quite a bit more pictures as stuff gets done and parts come in as i REALLY want to get this thing running soon. Want to tear up the street one more time before winter fully hits! (Even though it just snowed today lol) But i'm banking on one more dry week haha.

Modified by CrazyTrance at 4:04 PM 10/5/2009

Modified by CrazyTrance at 4:16 PM 10/5/2009 ]]> CrazyTrance 2009-10-05T15:58:21-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=4963894#4963894 Quote, originally posted by Driven_By_Hate Thanks for the updates, it will help greatly on my upcoming project. Learning all I can right now, before I tear into my car...Thats the way to do it. Good luck on your project. Hope it goes smoother than mine lol Quote, originally posted by Driven_By_Hate raquo;Thanks for the updates, it will help greatly on my upcoming project. Learning all I can right now, before I tear into my car...

Thats the way to do it. Good luck on your project. Hope it goes smoother than mine lol ]]> CrazyTrance 2009-08-03T21:34:17-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=4938330#4938330 Thanks for the updates, it will help greatly on my upcoming project. Learning all I can right now, before I tear into my car... Driven_By_Hate 2009-07-24T16:47:34-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=4936750#4936750 love this car... Kalypso 2009-07-24T02:30:37-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=4936617#4936617 thats sad that project is the sex.
that project is the sex. ]]> volcomskater773 2009-07-24T00:33:22-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=4935340#4935340 Still havent gotten any farther on it. I'm working on purchasing another vehicle right now to get me around. Then i'll be able to actually start working on it and hopefully fix it. Been super crazy busy. Almost bought a trans a few days ago but again, decided to buy a cheap beater to get me around instead CrazyTrance 2009-07-23T16:59:43-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=4926974#4926974 so whats the latest on the fix volcomskater773 2009-07-20T21:29:43-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=4902297#4902297 TMO! Long time...I am still baffled by the pilot bearing theory. What's the point To me it's just a part that will fail way before it's time. It's only (barely) useful at idle or when clutch is depressed, and even then would you really want an unsealed, unlubricated bearing spinning at 1-7k rpms Bushings work perfectly for thier purpose, no need to upgrade them. They are made from a softer material than the steel shaft for a reason. They wear at the perfect rate and to me I see no need to upgrade to an inferior bearing. Bearings have their place, but to me, in the end of a crank to exposed clutch dust and heat is not one of them. I am still baffled by the pilot bearing theory. What's the point? To me it's just a part that will fail way before it's time. It's only (barely) useful at idle or when clutch is depressed, and even then would you really want an unsealed, unlubricated bearing spinning at 1-7k rpms?

Bushings work perfectly for thier purpose, no need to upgrade them. They are made from a softer material than the steel shaft for a reason. They wear at the perfect rate and to me I see no need to upgrade to an inferior bearing. Bearings have their place, but to me, in the end of a crank to exposed clutch dust and heat is not one of them. ]]> T45 2009-07-11T04:45:31-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=4897145#4897145 Quote, originally posted by dsc4130 very good rule, nissan put it there, usually its suppose to be thereI'd agree with you for the most part...but that really can't be applied to this forum! Quote, originally posted by dsc4130 raquo;very good rule, nissan put it there, usually its suppose to be there

I'd agree with you for the most part...but that really can't be applied to this forum! ]]> tmorgan4 2009-07-08T21:47:03-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=4896545#4896545 i think you guys got what i was after, unsupported inputshaft allowing deflection thus causing all kinds of odd wear. Carl H 2009-07-08T17:53:31-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=4896520#4896520 Quote, originally posted by CrazyTrance I think it would cause damage like that though. Picture it clamped off centerlike that and then picture it rotating. It wobbles around and would create odd abnormal wear and would possibly open up the tollerances at the end of the discs spline weakening it. Although it could be a combination of bothI understand what you're picturing, I think, but when the disk is clamped down the crankshaft, flywheel, clutch, pp, input shaft, are all spinning at exactly the same RPM. It would but spinning off center, but the orientation of the input shaft, disk, etc. all stays the same until the clutch pedal is depressed again. The stress would be in the distortion of the disk face and on the input shaft bearings. Quote, originally posted by CrazyTrance raquo;I think it would cause damage like that though. Picture it clamped off centerlike that and then picture it rotating. It wobbles around and would create odd abnormal wear and would possibly open up the tollerances at the end of the discs spline weakening it. Although it could be a combination of both

I understand what you're picturing, I think, but when the disk is clamped down the crankshaft, flywheel, clutch, pp, input shaft, are all spinning at exactly the same RPM. It would but spinning off center, but the orientation of the input shaft, disk, etc. all stays the same until the clutch pedal is depressed again. The stress would be in the distortion of the disk face and on the input shaft bearings. ]]> SuperHatch 2009-07-08T17:44:45-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=4896349#4896349 I think it would cause damage like that though. Picture it clamped off centerlike that and then picture it rotating. It wobbles around and would create odd abnormal wear and would possibly open up the tollerances at the end of the discs spline weakening it. Although it could be a combination of both CrazyTrance 2009-07-08T16:31:17-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=4895922#4895922 Quote, originally posted by Carl H i doubt it was a manufacturer defect, i still think it was due to the input shaft wobbling around and the disc getting clamped at different spots thus loading up the splines.Can you explain this wobbling There should be less than .002" clearance between the splined mating surfaces if they are mating and manufactured correctly. Or do you mean the end of the input shaft where it should have been supported by the crank I can understand your thought here, but if the clutch clamed down while the input shaft was off center, the splines would still be fully engaged, however the clutch disk itself would be distorted lightly like a potatoe chip... it still wouldn't cause that kind of spline damage. Quote, originally posted by Carl H raquo;i doubt it was a manufacturer defect, i still think it was due to the input shaft wobbling around and the disc getting clamped at different spots thus loading up the splines.

Can you explain this wobbling?

There should be less than .002" clearance between the splined mating surfaces if they are mating and manufactured correctly.

Or do you mean the end of the input shaft where it should have been supported by the crank? I can understand your thought here, but if the clutch clamed down while the input shaft was off center, the splines would still be fully engaged, however the clutch disk itself would be distorted lightly like a potatoe chip... it still wouldn't cause that kind of spline damage.
]]> SuperHatch 2009-07-08T13:05:54-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=4895235#4895235 i doubt it was a manufacturer defect, i still think it was due to the input shaft wobbling around and the disc getting clamped at different spots thus loading up the splines. Carl H 2009-07-08T07:48:55-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=4895153#4895153 Quote, originally posted by CrazyTrance Yeah that is a very good rule of Thumb So i'm going to try and bore it out to re-fit a roller pilot bearing in there. I keep wondering if it was a manufacturing defect or something. Because honestly i've never seen that happen. I've seen it stist the metal apart in between the spline and the pads so that makes me wonder why the splines gave out as i'm positive i greased the spline when i re-installed it.I have honestly never seen that happen either. Usually if the torque is sufficient to strip the splines, the input shaft would simply break.Either you got an incorrectly marked disk (right part number/wrong part) or it was simply machined wrong. While I agree that all the solid driveline parts put additional stress on the clutch, it's not enough to do that.My first thought looking at those pictures was that you put the wrong clutch disk on, but you said you verified the part number so that only leaves MFR. defect. Quote, originally posted by CrazyTrance raquo;Yeah that is a very good rule of Thumb So i'm going to try and bore it out to re-fit a roller pilot bearing in there. I keep wondering if it was a manufacturing defect or something. Because honestly i've never seen that happen. I've seen it stist the metal apart in between the spline and the pads so that makes me wonder why the splines gave out as i'm positive i greased the spline when i re-installed it.

I have honestly never seen that happen either. Usually if the torque is sufficient to strip the splines, the input shaft would simply break.

Either you got an incorrectly marked disk (right part number/wrong part) or it was simply machined wrong. While I agree that all the solid driveline parts put additional stress on the clutch, it's not enough to do that.

My first thought looking at those pictures was that you put the wrong clutch disk on, but you said you verified the part number so that only leaves MFR. defect. ]]> SuperHatch 2009-07-08T06:54:09-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=4894865#4894865 Quote, originally posted by SuperHatch A good rule of thumb... If the car had one OEM, use it.very good rule, nissan put it there, usually its suppose to be there Quote, originally posted by SuperHatch raquo;
A good rule of thumb... If the car had one OEM, use it.very good rule, nissan put it there, usually its suppose to be there ]]> dsc4130 2009-07-08T00:34:31-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=4892576#4892576 Quote, originally posted by SuperHatch The pilot bearing has nothing to do with locating the trans, the dowel pins do that job, and that's why their location is so critical in designing a PROPER adapter plate.As an FYI, I can name 4 OEMs who do not use pilot bushings/bearings. The input shaft is free floating in the crank. They are not a completely necessary item, just a really good idea and they form a more stable rotating assembly. The higher quality OEMs use them.A good rule of thumb... If the car had one OEM, use it.Yeah that is a very good rule of Thumb So i'm going to try and bore it out to re-fit a roller pilot bearing in there. I keep wondering if it was a manufacturing defect or something. Because honestly i've never seen that happen. I've seen it stist the metal apart in between the spline and the pads so that makes me wonder why the splines gave out as i'm positive i greased the spline when i re-installed it.Quote, originally posted by Carl H excuse me then, what i meant to say is it locates the input shaft and keeps it square...as for the bushing/bearing bit goes chances are that those makes have the input shaft od machined into the id of the crank for an almost bushing like fit.Thats a reason i wasnt so worried about not using a pilot bearing. I thought the flywheel spacer fit perfectly around the input shaft at the far end of the spacer and acted as sort of a pilot bearing itself. Guess not. Modified by CrazyTrance at 7:54 AM 7/7/2009 Quote, originally posted by SuperHatch raquo;

The pilot bearing has nothing to do with locating the trans, the dowel pins do that job, and that's why their location is so critical in designing a PROPER adapter plate.

As an FYI, I can name 4 OEMs who do not use pilot bushings/bearings. The input shaft is free floating in the crank. They are not a completely necessary item, just a really good idea and they form a more stable rotating assembly. The higher quality OEMs use them.

A good rule of thumb... If the car had one OEM, use it.

Yeah that is a very good rule of Thumb So i'm going to try and bore it out to re-fit a roller pilot bearing in there. I keep wondering if it was a manufacturing defect or something. Because honestly i've never seen that happen. I've seen it stist the metal apart in between the spline and the pads so that makes me wonder why the splines gave out as i'm positive i greased the spline when i re-installed it.

Quote, originally posted by Carl H raquo;

excuse me then, what i meant to say is it locates the input shaft and keeps it square... as for the bushing/bearing bit goes chances are that those makes have the input shaft od machined into the id of the crank for an almost bushing like fit.

Thats a reason i wasnt so worried about not using a pilot bearing. I thought the flywheel spacer fit perfectly around the input shaft at the far end of the spacer and acted as sort of a pilot bearing itself. Guess not.

Modified by CrazyTrance at 7:54 AM 7/7/2009 ]]> CrazyTrance 2009-07-07T07:38:56-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=4892304#4892304 Great story, I read the whole thing - awesome way to kill time working in a jail hahaYou're a brave one taking on this swap, and that's too bad about the hard lesson learnedKeep us updated You're a brave one taking on this swap, and that's too bad about the hard lesson learned

Keep us updated ]]> z_roots 2009-07-07T02:11:54-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=4891164#4891164 excuse me then, what i meant to say is it locates the input shaft and keeps it square...as for the bushing/bearing bit goes chances are that those makes have the input shaft od machined into the id of the crank for an almost bushing like fit. as for the bushing/bearing bit goes chances are that those makes have the input shaft od machined into the id of the crank for an almost bushing like fit. ]]> Carl H 2009-07-06T16:46:01-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=4891025#4891025 Quote, originally posted by Carl H no pilot bushing is only flirting with disaster...they locate the trans and keep the input shaft center and allow for a nice stable sliding assembly for the disc.tisk tisk.do it again!solid engine mounts and welded diff arnt the culprit, the lack of the bushing was.The pilot bearing has nothing to do with locating the trans, the dowel pins do that job, and that's why their location is so critical in designing a PROPER adapter plate.As an FYI, I can name 4 OEMs who do not use pilot bushings/bearings. The input shaft is free floating in the crank. They are not a completely necessary item, just a really good idea and they form a more stable rotating assembly. The higher quality OEMs use them.A good rule of thumb... If the car had one OEM, use it. Quote, originally posted by Carl H raquo;no pilot bushing is only flirting with disaster...they locate the trans and keep the input shaft center and allow for a nice stable sliding assembly for the disc.
tisk tisk.
do it again!

solid engine mounts and welded diff arnt the culprit, the lack of the bushing was.

The pilot bearing has nothing to do with locating the trans, the dowel pins do that job, and that's why their location is so critical in designing a PROPER adapter plate.

As an FYI, I can name 4 OEMs who do not use pilot bushings/bearings. The input shaft is free floating in the crank. They are not a completely necessary item, just a really good idea and they form a more stable rotating assembly. The higher quality OEMs use them.

A good rule of thumb... If the car had one OEM, use it. ]]> SuperHatch 2009-07-06T15:30:35-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=4889299#4889299 no pilot bushing is only flirting with disaster...they locate the trans and keep the input shaft center and allow for a nice stable sliding assembly for the disc.tisk tisk.do it again!solid engine mounts and welded diff arnt the culprit, the lack of the bushing was. tisk tisk.
do it again!

solid engine mounts and welded diff arnt the culprit, the lack of the bushing was. ]]> Carl H 2009-07-05T20:38:52-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=4889039#4889039 let us know what you're running 1/4 mile! When do you plan on running it Nismoeric 2009-07-05T18:54:14-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=4888819#4888819 sicc project nice work Rb240Coupe 2009-07-05T16:53:37-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=4887480#4887480 I machined down a standard Z32 spigot bearing. Down to 20mm +2thou -0. Worked like a charm. I would not want to not have a spigot bearing of some type! Chrispy300 2009-07-04T20:38:08-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=4887448#4887448 welded diff, 1-piece driveshaft, unsprung clutch, and nearly solid engine mounts mean no give.Good for racing but longevity may be an issue. Over all top marks for effort mate.I would use at least a bronze bush if you cant fit a bearing. You can always machine down a bush as i did. But then i have recently changd to bearing but havnt tried the gearbox on yet, now im concerned. Good for racing but longevity may be an issue. Over all top marks for effort mate.
I would use at least a bronze bush if you cant fit a bearing. You can always machine down a bush as i did. But then i have recently changd to bearing but havnt tried the gearbox on yet, now im concerned. ]]> Bart 2009-07-04T20:13:59-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=4886729#4886729 Well now that my car is broke again i have time to actually go on the internet and make posts again..... hahaQuote, originally posted by jbrobatl Do you run a front strut bar or does it not fit with that engineDoesn't fit so i would like to make a custom one myself. But it seems once i finally get something fixed or am about to make something better. Something's gotta break on me.... My latest catastropheBroken transmission and clutch. AND flywheel spacer.SO i was merging slowly onto the interstate in 5th gear and all of a sudden it sound like my transmission popped out of gear and made the most horrid grinding noise in the world. Long story short i towed it back to my house with my house with my room mates truck. I finally got around to tearing it apart to find out what happened.Here are carnage pictures. (Sorry for them all being crapy cell phone pics, couldn't find my better camera)Engine pulled.Clutch disc's teeth on my ACT 6 puck unsprung completely stripped off... This is what it SHOULD look like. (minus the busted out spring up top, was from my first RPS clutch that blew up on me)Hard to see but transmission splines are messed too. Some actually look to be BENTAnd my hacked up flywheel spacer.The story with the spacer is that i didnt have a pilot bearing in. Basically it was something i did two summers ago. When i was putting this thing together with the original RPS clutch i had, i tried bolting the transmission up and it wouldn't go on using the pilot bearing supplied by RPS. It wouldn't go on all the way. Took it back apart and found the pilot bearing was hitting part of the transmission input shaft where the spline starts after the tip for the pilot bearing. So i think what happened was i took out the pilot bearing and never used it. I remember a friend telling me he never had one in his car either and it was fine. So i wasn't TOO worried about it at the time. I think i figured the difference was that i was using an N/A z32 transmission instead of the turbo one which is what the adaptor plate setup was designed for. (i remember reading the were identical besides their clutches) Anyways thinking back on it now i was really dumb about that and in too much of a hurry and paying for it in the end. As you can see the inside of the spacer is completely hacked... and i'm not sure but no pilot bearing might have been a part of it.Also, i check online. The part number of my ACT disc is 6240006. Which is the correct part number for my application. 90-96 300zx Non-Turbo. It also happens to be by coincidence the same part number for the 79-83 Turbo 300xz. But thats just a clarification that i wasnt using an incorrect disc..And now i dont know about you guys but i've NEVER seen anything like this happening. Even daily driving it i've seen the metal twist apart on the clutch disc from using an unsprung but never the splines... Pretty sure a combination of a welded diff, 1-piece driveshaft, unsprung clutch, and nearly solid engine mounts combined with it being daily driven had a part in this... Modified by CrazyTrance at 11:51 AM 7/4/2009

Quote, originally posted by jbrobatl raquo;

Do you run a front strut bar or does it not fit with that engine?

Doesn't fit so i would like to make a custom one myself. But it seems once i finally get something fixed or am about to make something better. Something's gotta break on me.... My latest catastrophe???

Broken transmission and clutch. AND flywheel spacer.

SO i was merging slowly onto the interstate in 5th gear and all of a sudden it sound like my transmission popped out of gear and made the most horrid grinding noise in the world. Long story short i towed it back to my house with my house with my room mates truck. I finally got around to tearing it apart to find out what happened.

Here are carnage pictures. (Sorry for them all being crapy cell phone pics, couldn't find my better camera)

Engine pulled.

Clutch disc's teeth on my ACT 6 puck unsprung completely stripped off...

This is what it SHOULD look like. (minus the busted out spring up top, was from my first RPS clutch that blew up on me)

Hard to see but transmission splines are messed too. Some actually look to be BENT

And my hacked up flywheel spacer.

The story with the spacer is that i didnt have a pilot bearing in. Basically it was something i did two summers ago. When i was putting this thing together with the original RPS clutch i had, i tried bolting the transmission up and it wouldn't go on using the pilot bearing supplied by RPS. It wouldn't go on all the way. Took it back apart and found the pilot bearing was hitting part of the transmission input shaft where the spline starts after the tip for the pilot bearing. So i think what happened was i took out the pilot bearing and never used it. I remember a friend telling me he never had one in his car either and it was fine. So i wasn't TOO worried about it at the time. I think i figured the difference was that i was using an N/A z32 transmission instead of the turbo one which is what the adaptor plate setup was designed for. (i remember reading the were identical besides their clutches) Anyways thinking back on it now i was really dumb about that and in too much of a hurry and paying for it in the end. As you can see the inside of the spacer is completely hacked... and i'm not sure but no pilot bearing might have been a part of it.

Also, i check online. The part number of my ACT disc is 6240006. Which is the correct part number for my application. 90-96 300zx Non-Turbo. It also happens to be by coincidence the same part number for the 79-83 Turbo 300xz. But thats just a clarification that i wasnt using an incorrect disc..

And now i dont know about you guys but i've NEVER seen anything like this happening. Even daily driving it i've seen the metal twist apart on the clutch disc from using an unsprung but never the splines...

Pretty sure a combination of a welded diff, 1-piece driveshaft, unsprung clutch, and nearly solid engine mounts combined with it being daily driven had a part in this...

Modified by CrazyTrance at 11:51 AM 7/4/2009 ]]> CrazyTrance 2009-07-04T11:45:07-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=4769412#4769412 Do you run a front strut bar or does it not fit with that engine jbrobatl 2009-05-20T23:20:06-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=287581;postid=4759894#4759894 dude awsome work on the fabrication this thing is sick. cant wait to start on the ls3 416 swap muhahahahahaha ]]> bigtony08 2009-05-17T20:28:35-08:00