]]> Edub1 2008-11-28T21:41:39-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3735086#3735086 Doesnt look like it.. ZiG 2008-06-13T13:40:39-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3733878#3733878 I can't tell, but is that dedicated pin at all on this diagramhttp://www.bgsoflex.com/mspowe...2.pdfsil80 http://www.bgsoflex.com/mspowe...2.pdf

sil80 ]]> sil80drifter 2008-06-13T06:11:32-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3732068#3732068 Well, you could try it. I have no idea what would happen. It seems that with that transistor circuit, it's working with a positive signal, so if you were going to try connecting the tach to pin 36, you might just hook it straight up without the transistor. Oh, of course if you do it this way, and use a rev limiter or launch control, etc, your tach will go nucking futs whenever the limiter engages. Seriously, I really think you should just wire it up the proper way, with the dedicated pin on the ms and the transistor circuit. Oh, of course if you do it this way, and use a rev limiter or launch control, etc, your tach will go nucking futs whenever the limiter engages.

Seriously, I really think you should just wire it up the proper way, with the dedicated pin on the ms and the transistor circuit. ]]> ZiG 2008-06-12T15:11:44-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3731919#3731919 So, since Pin 36 on the MSII IS the one that connects to the Negative Coil terminal, so I would be splicing and adding a resistor circuit to that wire (see diagram for 89-90 KA24E in the below pic), correctsil80

sil80 ]]> sil80drifter 2008-06-12T14:17:01-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3731760#3731760 Why am I going through the MS, when I could splice it out of the negative coil wire I mean the MS is already getting the RPM signal, right I could technically splice off the resistor circuit off of the Negative Coil terminal and into the stock tachometer, right Your suggestion was mostly just so that I keep everything wired from the MS, correctsil80 I mean the MS is already getting the RPM signal, right?

I could technically splice off the resistor circuit off of the Negative Coil terminal and into the stock tachometer, right?
Your suggestion was mostly just so that I keep everything wired from the MS, correct?

sil80 ]]> sil80drifter 2008-06-12T13:11:00-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3731550#3731550 What No. You're gonna fry it. Aftermarket tachometers connect to the NEGATIVE pole on your ignition coil. Since that's the pole that triggers it. Just wire it up exactly as I've shown and it'll be fine. You have to go into megatune and fine the 'tacho output pin' setting and look at it. It will say blah blah js0, blah blah make sure this pin isn't already in use, etc. Then enable it. Then open the case and find JS0 (it's on the bottom of the PCB). Now solder a wire from that spot to an unused pin on the plug for the harness. Since I bought the premade pigtail, I just soldered the wire to one of the iacv stepper motor wires since it's not in use. Then you connect that wire to the transistor circuit and to the wire leading to the tach, which you can just cut off the stock ecu plug and then it's right there. Just wire it up exactly as I've shown and it'll be fine. You have to go into megatune and fine the 'tacho output pin' setting and look at it. It will say blah blah js0, blah blah make sure this pin isn't already in use, etc. Then enable it. Then open the case and find JS0 (it's on the bottom of the PCB). Now solder a wire from that spot to an unused pin on the plug for the harness. Since I bought the premade pigtail, I just soldered the wire to one of the iacv stepper motor wires since it's not in use. Then you connect that wire to the transistor circuit and to the wire leading to the tach, which you can just cut off the stock ecu plug and then it's right there. ]]> ZiG 2008-06-12T11:46:25-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3731104#3731104 OK, so what wire usually goes to the tach (when it's not controlled by the ECU)I assume the positive one on the coilSo I'll take my positive coil wire and splice it off to the tach, but put in the resistor/transistor circuit in order for the tach to read correctlyOr should I get the tach signal from another source, such as one of the wires that goes to the MSII Such as pin 24 or pin 36sil80 I assume the positive one on the coil?

So I'll take my positive coil wire and splice it off to the tach, but put in the resistor/transistor circuit in order for the tach to read correctly?

Or should I get the tach signal from another source, such as one of the wires that goes to the MSII? Such as pin 24 or pin 36?

sil80 ]]> sil80drifter 2008-06-12T09:33:30-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3730192#3730192 the output pin for the tach is not the same pin as the one for the ignition coil. ZiG 2008-06-11T22:48:49-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3730171#3730171 Wait... I'm a bit confused. Does this circuit imply I should apply it to pin 24 or 36 on the msII i.e. isn't technically pin 24 the "tach" pin, which receives what usually would be input for the tachometer (save the low voltage adjustment)Or is Pin 36 both the output for the negative coil terminal and into is I should splice in the circuit with the resistor/transistorI know it sounds like a stupid question but it's almost 2 am and my head isn't workin rite now.sil80 Or is Pin 36 both the output for the negative coil terminal and into is I should splice in the circuit with the resistor/transistor?
I know it sounds like a stupid question but it's almost 2 am and my head isn't workin rite now.

sil80 ]]> sil80drifter 2008-06-11T22:39:43-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3723763#3723763 I got all the parts for that anyway, so I might as well do it the same way, and i can always disconnect and run it straight later.I'll keep you guys posted,Thanks!sil80 I'll keep you guys posted,
Thanks!

sil80 ]]> sil80drifter 2008-06-09T21:29:13-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3723463#3723463 Yeah, you would just connect it directly. But I really don't think that will work, I'd put money on the 'it will need exactly the same circuit as a dohc cluster' option. ZiG 2008-06-09T19:41:12-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3723173#3723173 ZiG, appreciate the input.So, if it's to be hooked up without the resistor/transistor circuit, it's just having the IGN OUT wire go straight to the tach I'm kinda afraid to fry the tach if the signal's too strong without resistors...sil80 So, if it's to be hooked up without the resistor/transistor circuit, it's just having the IGN OUT wire go straight to the tach? I'm kinda afraid to fry the tach if the signal's too strong without resistors...

sil80 ]]> sil80drifter 2008-06-09T18:15:40-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3723084#3723084 I do believe it is. But there's a real easy to tell: wire it up without it and see what happens. Worst case scenario should be that it just won't work, then you can pony up the $2 and solder that circuit in. ZiG 2008-06-09T17:42:17-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3722957#3722957 sorry to thread jack a little, but it's somewhat related - A year later than I thought I'm finally startin to wire my MSII setup.Does anyone know whether the following diagram (resistors and transistor) is valid (needs to be used) for the 89-90 s13 tachshttp://www.msextra.com/manuals...o.GIFThis was posted in the very first post in this thread, but the guys' car was a 91-94, and I know things changed in that generation a bit. My god... I haven't posted in like 4 months... good to be back!All input is appreciated by myself and of course whoever else squirts a SOHC.sil80 A year later than I thought I'm finally startin to wire my MSII setup.
Does anyone know whether the following diagram (resistors and transistor) is valid (needs to be used) for the 89-90 s13 tachs?

http://www.msextra.com/manuals...o.GIF

This was posted in the very first post in this thread, but the guys' car was a 91-94, and I know things changed in that generation a bit.

My god... I haven't posted in like 4 months... good to be back!

All input is appreciated by myself and of course whoever else squirts a SOHC.

sil80 ]]> sil80drifter 2008-06-09T16:43:25-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3604141#3604141 Thanks for the help. I'll get going on that. 2projects2many 2008-04-28T20:07:11-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3604106#3604106 Have you tried.. Pulling fuel from the idle binsMan can you just start another thread with a list of your problems so we can get this clutter out of this thread This was meant to be a thread so people who had no idea about MS could come and read our stories, not listen to us try to trouble shoot random problems. Man can you just start another thread with a list of your problems so we can get this clutter out of this thread? This was meant to be a thread so people who had no idea about MS could come and read our stories, not listen to us try to trouble shoot random problems. ]]> 480sx 2008-04-28T19:59:31-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3603777#3603777 Guys, I got it somewhat running this weekend. Only with my foot mashing the pedal to the floor though. I can't get it to idle or go over 1400rpm with me holding the pedal. It's dumping loads of fuel though= just no way to keep it running. I've stabbed the distributor 3 more times to make sure I had it right. I don't know where to go from here. I guess maybe the cams could be wrong- but I was really careful when assembling this motor to be sure all was right- so I don't think so. Any ideas Modified by 2projects2many at 10:04 PM 4/28/2008
Modified by 2projects2many at 10:04 PM 4/28/2008 ]]> 2projects2many 2008-04-28T18:34:04-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3593874#3593874 I mixed up a spark problem with a cas input one.. Bad info. Been a while since iv done this stuff and am no expert. The guys on the MSFI forums are the real people to ask.Still it makes sense to try put everything back the way you had it when you picked up a cas signal and try again. Still it makes sense to try put everything back the way you had it when you picked up a cas signal and try again. ]]> 480sx 2008-04-24T21:34:27-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3593472#3593472 Quote, originally posted by 480sx How many times have you read the mega manual and understood it http://www.megamanual.com/index.html This is how everyone else gets theirs to work. It gives you pretty much everything you need to know. Anything thats not KA specific has already been gone over and explained on this forum. You can also join the forum specifically for Megasquirt that has quite a few members. http://www.msefi.com/index.php Also, have you gone through and followed every procedure in the two part section of the mega manual for setup and tuning It sounds like you rotated your dizzy to far. Rotate it back the way you had it and you will probably pick a signal back up. You need to set your crank angle, so the MS knows where the engine is on its firing sequence. 480sx, I read over 2-3x, but I can't say that I have it memorized. Additionally, regardless of how I rotate the distributor- there's always should be a signal- rotating it simply tells the computer when the engine is in position to send an ignition charge (thus explains "ignition timing") I'm not new to cars, nor their systems- just new to controllable fuel inj/ignition. I appreciate the ideas and info you've given. What confuses me is that I change out a diode and nothing- I short said diode out and than it works. I get out to recheck timing (adjust distributor) to see if I can get the spark on time & than no signal. There's either a problem on the board, bad connection in the pins/wiring, or possibly a bad distributor. I get another ordered for this weekend, and check it out. Quote, originally posted by 480sx raquo;How many times have you read the mega manual and understood it?

http://www.megamanual.com/index.html

This is how everyone else gets theirs to work. It gives you pretty much everything you need to know. Anything thats not KA specific has already been gone over and explained on this forum. You can also join the forum specifically for Megasquirt that has quite a few members.

http://www.msefi.com/index.php

Also, have you gone through and followed every procedure in the two part section of the mega manual for setup and tuning?

It sounds like you rotated your dizzy to far. Rotate it back the way you had it and you will probably pick a signal back up. You need to set your crank angle, so the MS knows where the engine is on its firing sequence.

480sx, I read over 2-3x, but I can't say that I have it memorized. Additionally, regardless of how I rotate the distributor- there's always should be a signal- rotating it simply tells the computer when the engine is in position to send an ignition charge (thus explains "ignition timing") I'm not new to cars, nor their systems- just new to controllable fuel inj/ignition. I appreciate the ideas and info you've given. What confuses me is that I change out a diode and nothing- I short said diode out and than it works. I get out to recheck timing (adjust distributor) to see if I can get the spark on time than no signal. There's either a problem on the board, bad connection in the pins/wiring, or possibly a bad distributor. I get another ordered for this weekend, and check it out. ]]> 2projects2many 2008-04-24T19:47:31-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3593279#3593279 How many times have you read the mega manual and understood it http://www.megamanual.com/index.html This is how everyone else gets theirs to work. It gives you pretty much everything you need to know. Anything thats not KA specific has already been gone over and explained on this forum. You can also join the forum specifically for Megasquirt that has quite a few members. http://www.msefi.com/index.php Also, have you gone through and followed every procedure in the two part section of the mega manual for setup and tuning It sounds like you rotated your dizzy to far. Rotate it back the way you had it and you will probably pick a signal back up. You need to set your crank angle, so the MS knows where the engine is on its firing sequence. http://www.megamanual.com/index.html

This is how everyone else gets theirs to work. It gives you pretty much everything you need to know. Anything thats not KA specific has already been gone over and explained on this forum. You can also join the forum specifically for Megasquirt that has quite a few members.

http://www.msefi.com/index.php

Also, have you gone through and followed every procedure in the two part section of the mega manual for setup and tuning?

It sounds like you rotated your dizzy to far. Rotate it back the way you had it and you will probably pick a signal back up. You need to set your crank angle, so the MS knows where the engine is on its firing sequence. ]]> 480sx 2008-04-24T18:47:01-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3593055#3593055 OK, so I install D1 back on the board, and try to crank- nothing- so I short out D1 and whammo- tach signal. I crank and adjust and crank and adjust- re-position the distributor to TDC, and get back in to crank. Guess What No tach signal again. Any ideas 2projects2many 2008-04-24T17:33:45-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3586109#3586109 No 480, it wasn't fully charged yet- @ about 95% though. I had D2 diode installed, and was also jumping it when I got a signal. I decided to remove it since I got something by by-passing it, but than nothing. 2projects2many 2008-04-22T18:23:15-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3585921#3585921 The black wire with white dots on it is the engine ground. The small black wire is the wire you just tape up.The white wire is your signal wire.The black wire with the white stripe is 12 volt.Make sure you have that right first.So, your saying that you were able to get a cranking signal, then you changed your setup and now you cant get one.. It sounds like you might have had it right, then you messed it up. Are you sure your battery was fully charged when you got your 98 cranking rpms The small black wire is the wire you just tape up.
The white wire is your signal wire.
The black wire with the white stripe is 12 volt.

Make sure you have that right first.

So, your saying that you were able to get a cranking signal, then you changed your setup and now you cant get one.. It sounds like you might have had it right, then you messed it up. Are you sure your battery was fully charged when you got your 98 cranking rpms? ]]> 480sx 2008-04-22T17:24:22-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3585639#3585639 OK guys, so I had to buy a new charger 'cause I charges overnight and the voltage was the same. So I got the battery back up 12+ vts, and was messing around after checking the wiring and everything looked good. The small wire is the correct ground wire as it has the silver dashes going down it like all the other grounds. The odd thing is though while I was cranking I decided to jumper the D2 as suggested in the msns manual, and what do you know I received a little rpm (around 98), so I say to myself "why don;t I remove this diode as well and jumper permanently and see what happens. Guess what Nothing- not even the little bit of signal I was receiving when the D2 was installed. What the hell is up with this damn thing. I rewalked all of the V3 ms1 board assembly instructions, and see no errors. Any ideas 2projects2many 2008-04-22T15:46:38-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3584066#3584066 Quote, originally posted by 480sx I dont even think i said your setup was probably acquired through food stamp trades.. Now dat some funny $hit! Quote, originally posted by 480sx raquo;

I dont even think i said your setup was probably acquired through food stamp trades..

Now dat some funny $hit! ]]> 2projects2many 2008-04-22T06:19:03-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3583426#3583426 Quote, originally posted by ZiG I know you havent really liked/approved of my setup from the getgo, but there it is. What Where did you get that from man.. Anyone with the balls to try MS and the skills to get it running is alright in my book. All i ever said was that i felt like you should have gone with MS2 i believe. I dont even think i said your setup was probably acquired through food stamp trades.. I mounted the case with zip ties up to the blower motor on the far left hand side of the passengers foot well. It was a pretty ideal spot, you could easily get to the com port and it was out of the way. Quote, originally posted by ZiG raquo; I know you havent really liked/approved of my setup from the getgo, but there it is.

What? Where did you get that from man..

Anyone with the balls to try MS and the skills to get it running is alright in my book. All i ever said was that i felt like you should have gone with MS2 i believe. I dont even think i said your setup was probably acquired through food stamp trades..

I mounted the case with zip ties up to the blower motor on the far left hand side of the passengers foot well. It was a pretty ideal spot, you could easily get to the com port and it was out of the way. ]]> 480sx 2008-04-21T22:08:49-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3582948#3582948 Quote, originally posted by ZiG Actually the glove box works perfect if you leave a bit of slack in the wire and make sure you cut a big hole in the side. I did cut a hole- just not that big. I have the slack- so I'll probably go back with that. Thanks for the suggestion. Quote, originally posted by ZiG raquo;Actually the glove box works perfect if you leave a bit of slack in the wire and make sure you cut a big hole in the side.

I did cut a hole- just not that big. I have the slack- so I'll probably go back with that. Thanks for the suggestion. ]]> 2projects2many 2008-04-21T20:11:09-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3582936#3582936 Alright Krazy, tomorrow I'll be sure to remove the small wire, and insure all grounds (Black with silver)from the ecu wiring are in fact grounded. I'm also going to look back up on ms site and basically rework all the steps since I initially set this board up to trigger from the coil (no ignition control) and make sure I have removed & added everything needed. Thanks for all the help guys, I'm going to get this thing going- I won't be beat! 2projects2many 2008-04-21T20:06:26-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3582932#3582932 Actually the glove box works perfect if you leave a bit of slack in the wire and make sure you cut a big hole in the side. ]]> ZiG 2008-04-21T20:05:37-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3582798#3582798 Quote, originally posted by 480sx Zig man, its so much easier, cleaner, more reliable to just rewire your whole engine bay. You condense what was originally 2 pounds of wire down to 10-15 strands that YOU know how they were run, how to trace them if there ever is a problem. ^ i'll have to take some pics tomorrow, i just did that over the weekend. Clean as hell. I'll also show you how much factory stuff came out.2projects, The ground from the CAS is black with like silver dashes down it, this wire actually is NOT with the normal CAS wiring. It ties into a shared ground with the TPS and the CLT. The power is black with a solid white line, white line is the signal and the other small black don't connect.If you cut and taped everything from the factory ECU i would verify that all the grounds are properly regrounded. But as was mentioned checking or swapping the CAS would probably be good. Quote, originally posted by 480sx raquo;Zig man, its so much easier, cleaner, more reliable to just rewire your whole engine bay. You condense what was originally 2 pounds of wire down to 10-15 strands that YOU know how they were run, how to trace them if there ever is a problem.

^ i'll have to take some pics tomorrow, i just did that over the weekend. Clean as hell. I'll also show you how much factory stuff came out.

2projects,
The ground from the CAS is black with like silver dashes down it, this wire actually is NOT with the normal CAS wiring. It ties into a shared ground with the TPS and the CLT.
The power is black with a solid white line, white line is the signal and the other small black don't connect.

If you cut and taped everything from the factory ECU i would verify that all the grounds are properly regrounded. But as was mentioned checking or swapping the CAS would probably be good. ]]> krazydriver 2008-04-21T19:33:58-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3582789#3582789 Quote, originally posted by ZiG This is why when I did it, I got an ECU pinout diagram and an ECU wiring diagram. It's a lot easier if you do it right at the stock ecu harness end and then just leave everything else alone.That's what I did Zig, just cut the stock ecu harness connector off and tapped everything there. Where did you mount your ms I'm not sure if I can squeeze all this into the factory ecu location. The glovebox was my initial thought, but after cutting a hole in that for the wiring, it would bind when opening and closing. Quote, originally posted by ZiG raquo;This is why when I did it, I got an ECU pinout diagram and an ECU wiring diagram. It's a lot easier if you do it right at the stock ecu harness end and then just leave everything else alone.

That's what I did Zig, just cut the stock ecu harness connector off and tapped everything there. Where did you mount your ms? I'm not sure if I can squeeze all this into the factory ecu location. The glovebox was my initial thought, but after cutting a hole in that for the wiring, it would bind when opening and closing. ]]> 2projects2many 2008-04-21T19:31:12-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3582775#3582775 Quote, originally posted by 480sx What were saying, is that we believe that the smaller of the two wires is a secondary signal wire that is not used for MS. When this wire is grounded or hooked up to anything but a stock ecu, it may interfere with the distributor. Its just an electrical unit, hooking it up incorrectly can cause it to stop sending a recognizable CAS signal, or possibly fry your dizzy. Also with as cheap as you can score a second s13 dizzy you should have a second one to make sure that your problem isnt just simply a damaged CAS. EDIT - Zig man, its so much easier, cleaner, more reliable to just rewire your whole engine bay. You condense what was originally 2 pounds of wire down to 10-15 strands that YOU know how they were run, how to trace them if there ever is a problem. I'm going to let it charge overnight, and tomorrow, I'll remove the little wire from ground, and connect the large one right beside the white wire, and verify my 12vt input again on the blk/wht and the see what I get. I'm also going to see if I can find anything on testing the pickup sensor to check and see if it I may have fried it. Quote, originally posted by 480sx raquo;What were saying, is that we believe that the smaller of the two wires is a secondary signal wire that is not used for MS. When this wire is grounded or hooked up to anything but a stock ecu, it may interfere with the distributor. Its just an electrical unit, hooking it up incorrectly can cause it to stop sending a recognizable CAS signal, or possibly fry your dizzy.

Also with as cheap as you can score a second s13 dizzy you should have a second one to make sure that your problem isnt just simply a damaged CAS.

EDIT - Zig man, its so much easier, cleaner, more reliable to just rewire your whole engine bay. You condense what was originally 2 pounds of wire down to 10-15 strands that YOU know how they were run, how to trace them if there ever is a problem.

I'm going to let it charge overnight, and tomorrow, I'll remove the little wire from ground, and connect the large one right beside the white wire, and verify my 12vt input again on the blk/wht and the see what I get. I'm also going to see if I can find anything on testing the pickup sensor to check and see if it I may have fried it. ]]> 2projects2many 2008-04-21T19:27:51-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3582731#3582731 Eh, I like the simple way. Sure I'd love to rewire the whole damn thing, but when I installed this thing I had 2 weeks to get the car driveable. I'm ok with dragging around a few extra pounds of wiring for now. I know you havent really liked/approved of my setup from the getgo, but there it is. ZiG 2008-04-21T19:14:45-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3582689#3582689 What were saying, is that we believe that the smaller of the two wires is a secondary signal wire that is not used for MS. When this wire is grounded or hooked up to anything but a stock ecu, it may interfere with the distributor. Its just an electrical unit, hooking it up incorrectly can cause it to stop sending a recognizable CAS signal, or possibly fry your dizzy. Also with as cheap as you can score a second s13 dizzy you should have a second one to make sure that your problem isnt just simply a damaged CAS. EDIT - Zig man, its so much easier, cleaner, more reliable to just rewire your whole engine bay. You condense what was originally 2 pounds of wire down to 10-15 strands that YOU know how they were run, how to trace them if there ever is a problem. Also with as cheap as you can score a second s13 dizzy you should have a second one to make sure that your problem isnt just simply a damaged CAS.

EDIT - Zig man, its so much easier, cleaner, more reliable to just rewire your whole engine bay. You condense what was originally 2 pounds of wire down to 10-15 strands that YOU know how they were run, how to trace them if there ever is a problem. ]]> 480sx 2008-04-21T19:04:27-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3582674#3582674 This is why when I did it, I got an ECU pinout diagram and an ECU wiring diagram. It's a lot easier if you do it right at the stock ecu harness end and then just leave everything else alone. ZiG 2008-04-21T19:00:57-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3582617#3582617 Quote, originally posted by 480sx Have you tried grounding the thick black wire and disconnecting the thin one Its been a while since i did the MS thing, but the idea of the big(black) wire being a signal wire just isnt sitting right with me. Im pretty sure you have that mixed up.Actually 480, I had both grounded at one point or another- are you saying that you believe the smaller wire would be the second ring output To me that would seem odd if the the main signal is larger. I don't know, but right now my voltage is down to about 10- so I'm charging the battery because besides that being just to low and barely cranking the engine- I think that may be the problem because the the dizzy isn't getting 12 vt or better and the signal is too weak. Quote, originally posted by 480sx raquo;Have you tried grounding the thick black wire and disconnecting the thin one? Its been a while since i did the MS thing, but the idea of the big(black) wire being a signal wire just isnt sitting right with me. Im pretty sure you have that mixed up.

Actually 480, I had both grounded at one point or another- are you saying that you believe the smaller wire would be the second ring output? To me that would seem odd if the the main signal is larger. I don't know, but right now my voltage is down to about 10- so I'm charging the battery because besides that being just to low and barely cranking the engine- I think that may be the problem because the the dizzy isn't getting 12 vt or better and the signal is too weak. ]]> 2projects2many 2008-04-21T18:48:51-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3582593#3582593 Have you tried grounding the thick black wire and disconnecting the thin one Its been a while since i did the MS thing, but the idea of the big(black) wire being a signal wire just isnt sitting right with me. Im pretty sure you have that mixed up. 480sx 2008-04-21T18:42:45-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3582559#3582559 I hear what your saying Krazy, but the pick shows a black wire going to ground, but earlier we covered that the larger blk wire (same guage as wht) was the second signal and shouldn't be connected- so I disconnected that. Now only the smaller blk wire is going to ground along with the shielding. 2projects2many 2008-04-21T18:36:41-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3582540#3582540 Went and re-read everything.Here's a pic of what you should have. And what you said earlier.Quote, originally posted by 2projects2many OK, so I have hooked up the shield wire to ground, so I have the shield wire going to ground & the smaller black wire going to ground. I have 12v going in on blk/wht wire and another 12v (with resistor) going to the white wire going to pin 24 on ms.That little black wire should be wrapped on the end and not connected to ANYTHING! Grounding it when it shouldn't be might be screwing with the signal. Here's a pic of what you should have.

And what you said earlier.

Quote, originally posted by 2projects2many raquo;

OK, so I have hooked up the shield wire to ground, so I have the shield wire going to ground the smaller black wire going to ground. I have 12v going in on blk/wht wire and another 12v (with resistor) going to the white wire going to pin 24 on ms.

That little black wire should be wrapped on the end and not connected to ANYTHING! Grounding it when it shouldn't be might be screwing with the signal.

]]> krazydriver 2008-04-21T18:31:17-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3582296#3582296 You say both sensor returns, yet except for the v3 board setup- everything else says just 12+, signal, & ground. The v3 setup shows 2 wires and says (-) where needed. Do you think I should use that wire instead of just a ground on chassisShould the shielding go to that wire 2projects2many 2008-04-21T17:07:56-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3581443#3581443 hmmm.... I'm not sure what the standard dizzy output is supposed to look like, but it's probably something you'd need an oscilloscope to see properly.If all the MS settings are okay and the board itself is okay and tested out fine on the stim.... Something has got to be wrong somewhere in the car.I would double and triple check the shielding, power and both sensor returns on the distributor. Just to make sure everything there is good. Slim chance, but it might be possible that the sensor got damaged if you accidentally connected wiring wrong or something. but idk.... If all the MS settings are okay and the board itself is okay and tested out fine on the stim.... Something has got to be wrong somewhere in the car.

I would double and triple check the shielding, power and both sensor returns on the distributor. Just to make sure everything there is good.

Slim chance, but it might be possible that the sensor got damaged if you accidentally connected wiring wrong or something. but idk.... ]]> krazydriver 2008-04-21T11:30:21-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3577317#3577317 Keep at it bro. Kick it's azz..You are a bigger man than I. I wouldn't have kept with it this long. You are a bigger man than I. I wouldn't have kept with it this long. ]]> eazye2000 2008-04-19T17:57:27-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3577040#3577040 OK, so I just tested the incoming signal from the distributor, and here are the results:key on not cranking = .386 vtcranking = .386- 1.4 vt (fluctuating)Now I'm confused- the fluctuation in the volts tells me a signal is coming to the ms, yet when in megatune- it shows no signal. Like I said above- with stim- it shows rpms- so that makes me think that I have the board right, yet no signal. key on not cranking = .386 vt
cranking = .386- 1.4 vt (fluctuating)

Now I'm confused- the fluctuation in the volts tells me a signal is coming to the ms, yet when in megatune- it shows no signal.

Like I said above- with stim- it shows rpms- so that makes me think that I have the board right, yet no signal. ]]> 2projects2many 2008-04-19T15:15:43-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3577011#3577011 OK, so I did find some things I missed when setting up for distributor input.What I had donec12,c30 removedjumpered optin to tachselectjumpered tsel to optoutinstalled 1k resistor from r26 to igbinr57 not installedhad D1 removed and jumpered.What I hadn't done:Jumpered xg1 to xg2The ms test good on stim, but still no rpm signal on carAnymore ideas guys What I had done

c12,c30 removed
jumpered optin to tachselect
jumpered tsel to optout
installed 1k resistor from r26 to igbin
r57 not installed
had D1 removed and jumpered.

What I hadn't done:

Jumpered xg1 to xg2

The ms test good on stim, but still no rpm signal on car??

Anymore ideas guys? ]]> 2projects2many 2008-04-19T14:57:27-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3576363#3576363 OK, so I have hooked up the shield wire to ground, so I have the shield wire going to ground & the smaller black wire going to ground. I have 12v going in on blk/wht wire and another 12v (with resistor) going to the white wire going to pin 24 on ms. I have adjust all the settings as discussed in previous post as far as msns distributor, spark output A, spark inverted, stec, etc. I'm still getting no signal, so I'm going into the ms later today when I return home to verify all the assembly steps were done correctly for coil driver. I'll post results. 2projects2many 2008-04-19T08:09:21-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3576303#3576303 It also says to set "spark settings" to msns distributor and select spark output A as the only spark output. 2projects2many 2008-04-19T07:05:43-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3576283#3576283 You Rock Dude. I really appreciate the help, this thing has been sitting for about a year with rebuild, etc,etc. It's time to get it on the road. I just read the manual again, and it says to set to this:Single Coil Direct Drive Output for a V3.0 PCBThese instructions are only suitable for single and twin spark outputs, for more than 2 sparks see the mutiple output sectionV3.0 PCB ONLYVery Important: Set Spark Out Inverted = YES and set the Dwell to around 6.0mS for cranking 3.5mS for Running and 0.1mS for the Minimum Time as a starting point! Also set LED17 as SparkA output in Codebase and Output Functions!! Read the Software manual for more info!! Single Coil Direct Drive Output for a V3.0 PCB

These instructions are only suitable for single and twin spark outputs, for more than 2 sparks see the mutiple output section

V3.0 PCB ONLY

Very Important: Set Spark Out Inverted = YES and set the Dwell to around 6.0mS for cranking 3.5mS for Running and 0.1mS for the Minimum Time as a starting point! Also set LED17 as SparkA output in Codebase and Output Functions!! Read the Software manual for more info!!

]]> 2projects2many 2008-04-19T06:41:34-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3576279#3576279 ooops! should've asked earlier. I'm running MS2 extra. i'm not really familiar with ms1 extra. I'll look over the megamanual and see if i can find anything to help you though.Alright here's what some searching found.Quote, originally posted by DIYAUTOTUNE Using the MS-I PCBv3 with MSnS-E firmware * This is assuming you are starting with an ECU built up like I build my assembled MS130-C MegaSquirt-I PCB3.0 units. If you are building your unit up from a kit you can implement these changes during assembly. * Flash ECU with MSnS-E version 029v or later. (How Click Here.) (Or Here) * Jumper IGBTOUT to IGN to send to IGBT ignition coil driver signal out of pin 36 on the DB37. * Cut out C12 and C30. (Only needed when triggering from the - terminal of the coil, which you are not) * Remove D1 and jumper it, or just install a jumper wire across it's leads. (Only needed when triggering from the - terminal of the coil, which you are not) * Cut out R57 if fitted (this won't be there on my units though). * Get a 330 ohm 1/4w resistor and cut the leads down to about 1/2" at each end. Maybe a bit less. * Tin each end of the resistor with a bit of solder. * Cut a 5" piece of hookup wire (22ga is fine) and strip just a 1/8" or so. Tin the stripped wire with solder. * Melt the tinned wire tip to one end of the tinned 330 ohm resistor tip and let it cool. * Heatshrink wrap this wire/resistor assembly. * Use this wire/resistor combo to jumper the 'top' (top as in when you facing the silkscreen side of the PCB, with the text so that you can read it normally) lead of R26 to IGBTIN on the opposite side of the PCB.So did you do this already because that would definitely screw up trying to get a distributor reading. Other thing i can find is this picture of the ignition settings. I would think you need to turn distributor on, turn all the other top code settings off. then set whatever pin you've got wired for the spark output as spark output A.Just make sure prior to setting this that you set spark output to inverted. i had it set wrong and accidentally burnt out a blaster coil last year. i'm not really familiar with ms1 extra. I'll look over the megamanual and see if i can find anything to help you though.

Alright here's what some searching found.

Quote, originally posted by DIYAUTOTUNE raquo;

Using the MS-I PCBv3 with MSnS-E firmware * This is assuming you are starting with an ECU built up like I build my assembled MS130-C MegaSquirt-I PCB3.0 units. If you are building your unit up from a kit you can implement these changes during assembly. * Flash ECU with MSnS-E version 029v or later. (How? Click Here.) (Or Here) * Jumper IGBTOUT to IGN to send to IGBT ignition coil driver signal out of pin 36 on the DB37. * Cut out C12 and C30. (Only needed when triggering from the - terminal of the coil, which you are not) * Remove D1 and jumper it, or just install a jumper wire across it's leads. (Only needed when triggering from the - terminal of the coil, which you are not) * Cut out R57 if fitted (this won't be there on my units though). * Get a 330 ohm 1/4w resistor and cut the leads down to about 1/2" at each end. Maybe a bit less. * Tin each end of the resistor with a bit of solder. * Cut a 5" piece of hookup wire (22ga is fine) and strip just a 1/8" or so. Tin the stripped wire with solder. * Melt the tinned wire tip to one end of the tinned 330 ohm resistor tip and let it cool. * Heatshrink wrap this wire/resistor assembly. * Use this wire/resistor combo to jumper the 'top' (top as in when you facing the silkscreen side of the PCB, with the text so that you can read it normally) lead of R26 to IGBTIN on the opposite side of the PCB.

So did you do this already? because that would definitely screw up trying to get a distributor reading.

Other thing i can find is this picture of the ignition settings. I would think you need to turn distributor on, turn all the other top code settings off. then set whatever pin you've got wired for the spark output as spark output A.

Just make sure prior to setting this that you set spark output to inverted. i had it set wrong and accidentally burnt out a blaster coil last year. ]]> krazydriver 2008-04-19T06:37:21-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3576265#3576265 I must be all jacked up, I'm running MS1 Extra 029y4, and I don't even see a setting for that. What code are you guys running 2projects2many 2008-04-19T06:11:45-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3576048#3576048 Oh yeah, good thinking Krazy. ZiG 2008-04-19T00:18:39-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3575877#3575877 if that works before the megasquirt itself is probably set fine. You can test the optical tach input with the stim( the only one you can't test is VR), BUT you must undo the 12v pullup or it stops working... not sure why.Kinda simply, but did you make sure you changed the tach input setting in megasquirtShould be set on basic trigger, Input capture set to falling edge. It should be piccking some kind of signal up. You can test the optical tach input with the stim( the only one you can't test is VR), BUT you must undo the 12v pullup or it stops working... not sure why.

Kinda simply, but did you make sure you changed the tach input setting in megasquirt?

Should be set on basic trigger, Input capture set to falling edge. It should be piccking some kind of signal up.

]]> krazydriver 2008-04-18T22:29:23-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3575702#3575702 Krazy, I did previously after building for fuel only. Now that I've made the mods to drive the coil, I don't know if I missed a step or something because it used to pickup the signal when pulling from coil. I'll just have to take it apart tomorrow and retrace my steps. From what I've read- you can't test the rpm's off the stim when setup for Optical pickup- is this true- 'cause if so, I won't be able to tell anything anyway. Thanks for the help guys- if you have any other info to provide- please do so- I want to be running again! 2projects2many 2008-04-18T20:55:45-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=279228;postid=3575586#3575586 shield is the wire that goes to ground. The other black wire is a second CAS output that megasquirt doesn't use.Have you checked your MS with a stimulator That might be worth doing. Have you checked your MS with a stimulator? That might be worth doing. ]]> krazydriver 2008-04-18T20:19:59-08:00