J30 Do-It-Yourself Work

driverdriver — 2009-11-04T17:48:31-08:00

The factory stereo/head unit was a weak point on the J. Mine was replaced 8 years ago with a factory reman. If its not a fuse, then its the actual head unit

Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work

lovej30 — 2009-11-04T15:14:22-08:00

Since I've had my J30 (9 months), the radio hasn't worked. It won't turn on at all, and the antenna has never popped up. Could it be a fuse? Every now and then I'll hear a speaker kinda pop, but the radio won't turn on. I really miss music, so any help would be great.
Thanks! -K

driverdriver — 2009-07-08T07:46:52-08:00

from J30diy

If you are having problems with the acctuator (sp?) and your driver side front door locking, you might want to try this:
Take a small cro-bar and use it to GENTLY pry open WHILE using the key (most likely the master key) to unlock the door. My family's J30 front driver side door was out of alignment and this worked. Be sure to use a cloth to reduce scratching paint. After you are able to open the door, you should lubricate the door hinges, locks, etc. REMEMBER to be gentle and patient.

Best of luck!

Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work

dbovar1 — 2009-07-06T15:18:52-08:00

I've lost power and pickup from a dead stop and in turns. Last week, I cleaned the MAF and haven't seen a difference. Fuel pump? transmission filter? Any ideas on why my '97 isnt performing in first gear?

Note: if i mash the pedal it will rev to about 4500 rpm's then take out like a bat out of hell but that kills the gas mileage...somethings wrong!

driverdriver — 2009-06-15T06:59:56-08:00

Field Service Manual Location:

Contains various years.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/J30/

driverdriver — 2009-06-06T19:26:28-08:00

Link to J30 timing belt replacement procedure

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/198122

Re: Help with 1995 j-30 (elche1) non start

Loki2012 — 2009-05-03T22:18:36-08:00

I had the same problem. I went outside (cold out!) and reparked my car (15 seconds of driving) and the next day it would not start. I searched the forums here and found out a way to start the car (but not the problem). Under the hood, at the fuse box unplug the fuel pump fuse. Start the car - crank it over until it starts. takes a second or two. It will rev up and then start sputtering. Switch off the car at this point and replace the fuse. Car should start and run fine. I had to do this a few times.

driverdriver — 2009-04-21T18:51:12-08:00

Cleaning the J30's MAF

Instructions prvided by J30inthe sun

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/J30/1994_J30/ec.pdf
Page 6 shows the location.

You need a spray can of Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner. CRC makes one.
http://www.crcindustries.com/h...05110

Re: Tune-Up Questions (QCJ30)

driverdriver — 2009-04-13T19:11:17-08:00

Quote, originally posted by QCJ30 raquo;

I DID IT! I DID IT! I CHANGED MY OWN PLUGS! THANK GOD! I DIDN'T MESS UP MY BABY! You guys are such a help, I really appreciate it. THANK YOU ALL!

Congrats!!!

Re: Tune-Up Questions (elan)

QCJ30 — 2009-03-08T09:57:04-08:00

I DID IT! I DID IT! I CHANGED MY OWN PLUGS! THANK GOD! I DIDN'T MESS UP MY BABY! You guys are such a help, I really appreciate it. THANK YOU ALL!

Re: Tune-Up Questions (elan)

QCJ30 — 2009-02-21T07:22:37-08:00

Thanks people! WOW! less than 24hrs on the site, and I'm already getting useful advice. I'm going to try to change the plugs on my 95J.

Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work (driverdriver)

ELBeats — 2009-02-16T19:34:37-08:00

hello, my heater display went out, no fan, no digitaldisplay?? any suggestions. its a 94 J30t. ty.

Re: p/s pump (driverdriver)

infinitirydah — 2009-02-09T13:58:44-08:00

Quote, originally posted by driverdriver raquo;

It's starightforward. Any competent mechanic should be able to do it.

is there anyway u could give me a step by step? because to be honest i dont even know where to start. any info or advise would be greatly appreciated.

M30 Oilpan Removal

paulwms — 2009-02-07T10:46:27-08:00

I know this is the J30 DIY topic, but was hoping someone can help with a 1992 M30. Trying to drop the oilpan to inpect rod ends (something's knocking). The manuals say it should drop right out, but I've removed the cross member, jacked up the tranny, removed all oilpan bolts, and can't get it to fall. Its dropped down a half inch, but seems to be hung up on something at the rear - at the tranny connection. Any hints??

Re: p/s pump (infinitirydah)

driverdriver — 2009-02-06T19:57:02-08:00

Quote, originally posted by infinitirydah raquo;

how difficult is it to replace the p/s pump on a 96 j30?

It's starightforward. Any competent mechanic should be able to do it.

p/s pump

infinitirydah — 2009-01-29T05:55:46-08:00

how difficult is it to replace the p/s pump on a 96 j30?

Re: (driverdriver)

leedrm — 2008-12-31T14:45:08-08:00

pressure solenoid valve

Where is this located and how do it replace it.....My A/T light flashs 11 times, its benn doing it for years....I assume replacing pressure solenoid valve wll correct it...The transmission shift funny from time to time but not bad.

Thanks

Re: Tune-Up Questions (idcp)

drea1aaron — 2008-12-23T09:46:31-08:00

How do you replace the alternator? Is it pretty hard? Where is it located on a 95 J30? thanks

Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work (driverdriver)

karlwayne1 — 2008-12-15T21:48:58-08:00

hello every body my j30 motor locked up on me because low on oil please if any body know any kind of way to unlock the motor before i buy another one please help

Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work (rclem7)

roastduck88 — 2008-11-23T14:14:06-08:00

Quote, originally posted by rclem7 raquo;

Belt Replacement:

I will try and explain as best I can since I just did this a week ago.

You will have to start by removing the intake tubing, and the two radiator hoses. This will open up the top of the engine and allow you to work.

There are three belts on the car, and of course the one you want to replace is the hardest to get to. You will need to loosen up and remove all the belts. The compressor belt has a tension pully on it. You will need to loosen the nut on the face of that pully, then loosen the bolt pointing down, and that will loosen the compressor belt.

The power steering belt will be removed by loosening the pump itself. In similar fasion, there is a bolt on the lower side of the pump that will need to be loosened. There is a nut on the back side that locks the tension bolt that will need to be loosened, then loosen the tension bolt. You may have to loosen a bolt on the top side of the pump to get it to swivle.

Next you will do the same to the alternator. Loosen the nut on the back side of the tension bolt, then loosen the bolt. I also had to loosen a mounting bolt above the alternator to get it to swivle as well. Once you have the alternator belt loose, you can remove the fan by removing the four bolts on the face. I just was able to get it out the top and out of the way. I don't know if there is an easier way or not, but be very carefull when doing so as not to damage some wires or the timing belt housing. You might even consider loosening the alternator belt first so that you can get the fan out of the way as one of the first steps.

Replace the belts. Would be a good idea to inspect the other ones too since you will have them off. They're not that expensive. Reassemble in reverse order. Just be sure that the alternator belt is the last one you tighten since you will have to replace the fan. It took me about 2 hours to complete the job, but I went into it blindly since I just bought the car.

You do not need to remove the radiator hoses, all the belts / screws are accessible from underneath the car. I've replaced all three belts just be loseening up the bolts w/o any other removal of parts on my 1994 J30

driverdriver — 2008-08-19T21:08:07-08:00

HICAS Diagnostics-NOTICE some information in the post is pertinent only to the 300zx. Please ignore. Both the 300zx and J30t (1993 and 1994 models came with HICAS).

HICAS Diagnostic:

Turbos come standard with High Capacity Actively Controlled Suspension, a fancy way to say 4 wheel steering. There's a visual diagnostic mode to check for problems in the HICAS functions. The 90-93 TTs have hydrolic HICAS running off the power steering pump, where '94+ utilizes electric actuators to handle the rear steering chores. Their codes are a little different, but the procedure is the same. It might required a few tries to make it work. Be persistant!
Procedure:

1. Ignition switch 'off' manual tranny in neutral or A/T in 'P'

2. Start the engine

3. Within 10 seconds after turning the key to 'ON', start the engine, turn steering wheel from left to right 20 degrees from neutral 5 times or more times pump the brakes 5 times. Then press the brake pedal again to enter the test mode.

4. Turning the steering wheel left or right past 20 degrees from neutral will cause the rear wheels to turn slightly (~1 degree) (1.).

5. Drive the car forward 15 feet under 9mph to enter the full diagnostic mode.

6. The HICAS dash light will flash a code indicating any problems. Long flash is first digit, short flash is 2nd digit.

7. Diagnostic mode is exited when: ignition is turned off, vehicle speed exceeds 9mph, or diagnostic has operated for 5 minutes.

HICAS light codes for '93:

1. HICAS solenoid R.H.
2. HICAS solenoid L.H.
3. Cut-off valve
4. Power Steering solenoid
5. Vehicle Speed sensor
6. Steering angle sensor
7. Steering Neutral positon sensor
8. A/T: Parking Brake Sensor M/T: Clutch sensor
9. A/T: Inhibitor sensor M/T: Neutral sensor

HICAS light codes for '94:

11. HICAS control unit
12. HICAS motor power supply not present
13. HICAS motor output not present
21. Vehicle speed signal not present
22. Steering angle sensor angle signal not present
23. Steering angle sensor neutral not present
24. Rear main sensor input not present
25. Rear sub sensor input not present
31. Parking brake sensor input not present
32. Inhibitor switch (A/T) or nuetral switch (M/T) input not present
33. Engine speed signal not present

driverdriver — 2008-08-17T19:12:11-08:00

Transmission Self Diagnostics
Courtsey of Gerardjg

Transmission Self Diagnostics
using AT light below your temperature gauge on the dash
1-Warm up engine
2- Shut off car and turn ignition switch to ACC position
3-Wait 5 seconds
4-Move shifter to D
5-Turn ignition switch on do not start

AT check light should come on for about 2 seconds

6-Move shifter to 3
7- step on gas fully and release
8-Move shifter to 2
9-Move shifter to 1
10-step on gas fully and release

The At Check light should start flashing 11 flashes a
slight pause and start over again. All flashes should
be the same length, any flash that is longer indicates a
trouble the following list is what the trouble circuit or part is.

A longer flash indicates

1st Flash Revolution sensor
2nd flash Speed sensor
3rd flash Throttle position sensor
4th Shift solenoid valve a
5th Shift solenoid valve b
6th overrun clutch solenoid
7th tourqe converter clutch solenoid
8th fluid temp sensor
9th engine speed signal
10th turbine revolution sensor
11th pressure solenoid valve

driverdriver — 2008-08-12T18:28:34-08:00

Pulling Dimmer Switch
Courtesy of Craze K

I'll try to explain as best as I can. It was my first time.

Well on my car there is 2 screws to the right and left under the steering wheel. Remove them and pull from the bottom first. It was alittle tricky to pull up but if you pull on the left side up and out, you'll see there are 4 little tabs at the top of the panel that kinda snap in.( or you can lower your steering wheel for ease of removel) Be gentle so you don't break them. There will be 2 wire harnesses you will need to pull out to remove it completely. They have tabs on them that you have to squeeze to remove them. Then on your dimmer switch there are 2 (possibly 3, mine might have been missing one.) more screws that hold the switch to the panel, you have to remove them to get the dimmer out and apart. The black back box comes off easily using a small flathead screw driver.( There are little tabs on each side that need to be pride apart. You'll see the roller tabs and the circuit board from there. Pull the roller out and bend the 2 tabs out towards the circuit board to make a solid contact once its put back in. I also did this to the pins in the wire harness end. (just slightly as not to break them or bend them too much) I sprayed them with the contact cleaner an let dry, then i reassembled it and it was good. You probably won't need the cleaner but I'm anal with this stuff.
I can get pics if you need them also. I also take notes when taking things apart so when I'm reassembling them I have a backup in case I forget something. Hope this helps.

Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work (graydragon)

gr8scott72 — 2008-08-10T21:04:11-08:00

Quote, originally posted by graydragon raquo;

did you notice an increase in your gas milage with your O2 sensors changed out? are there only 2? thanks.

OBD1 has only 2 O2 sensors (93, 94, 95). OBD2 has 4 (96, 97).

Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work (Gerardjg)

graydragon — 2008-08-10T17:58:44-08:00

did you notice an increase in your gas milage with your O2 sensors changed out? are there only 2? thanks.

Re: (heynow775)

gr8scott72 — 2008-08-05T07:33:27-08:00

Quote, originally posted by heynow775 raquo;

i had to pull my1995 j30 with a dollie about 100 miles, it a auto trans. when i went to take it of the dollie it would go into reverse, when i got it offit only gose in drive, you can put it into nutral and its still in drive.you can put it into park and it wont rev. but it feels like its still in drive. what do you think

I think you should have put the drive wheels on the dollie.

heynow775 — 2008-08-04T20:39:13-08:00

Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work (rclem7) Drive belt replacement procedure

Victor — 2008-08-02T17:35:51-08:00

One of my drive belts is making a squealing noise when I first start driving that is getting worse. Just feeling how much slack is in the belts I think it is probably the alternator belt, since it seems to have the most play in it.
I am trying to decide if I should pay someone to replace the three belts (I got a quote of $111.00 parts and labor for Gates belts), or is it something I can do myself. Or maybe I should just try tightening them, but it seems like almost as much work to tighten them as replace them.
I just took a quick look but I have some questions about this procedure rclm7 was kind enough to post.
1. Is it really necessary to remove the radiator hoses?
2. Why is it necessary to loosen the alternator belt before removing the fan? Looks like it would be easier to work if the fan was removed first, but I don't know if the fan and pulley are one unit.
3. Can all the work be done from the top or is it necessary to put the car on a lift or jack stands to get to anything from underneath?
4. I can't even see any of the adjustment bolts shown in the FSM, so guess all the disassembly would be needed to just tighten the belts even if not replacing.
5. Is there any preferred brand of replacement belts, like Goodyear Gatorbacks, or would Auto Zone house brand be OK?

driverdriver — 2008-07-29T12:12:37-08:00

Removing J30 shift knob:

Directions courtesy of Deathdealer

Alright, I have searched about everywhere to find out how to remove the stock shift knob on the automatic transmission so I could put a custom one on without breaking something.
Now, I'm going to share my knowledge if there are any others like myself.

It's obviously very simple, but if you're a bit cautios like me then you probably don't want to attempt it without knowing for sure what to do. I have found alot of opinions from people about how to remove it, but noone that had experience doing it.

Step 1: We'll have to remove the unlock button that you have to push down to shift out of neutral and park. To do this, stick a flathead screwdriver, or something of that nature, between the button and the shifter on the side facing the back of the car. Do not try to remove the inner, plastic trim around the button. Push down ion the tool and pry the button up. You shouldn't have to apply much pressure to do this, so if you're really trying to force it then you're probably doing something wrong and should stop and have a beer.

Step 2: Once the button pops up and off, you'll see 3 screws. These aren't very important because they only hold down the plastic trim down.

Step 3: Pull off the rod cap and spring - but make sure to keep them as you will probably need them for your custom knob.

Step 4: You'll see a large bolt down in the middle of the knob. This is a bit awkward to get to, but I was able to unscrew it with needle-nose pliers. Unscrew it, pull off the knob, and there you have it! Piece of cake.

I hope this helps!

Nice descriptions

craze K — 2008-07-22T14:52:58-08:00

This site is great. I bought my parts from everythinginfiniti.com that I needed for my fix. Now all I have to do is give all this great info to my friend so he can replace the parts. Thank you to everyone.

Modified by craze K at 12:35 PM 7/23/2008

Re: Help with 1995 j-30 (coachdave)

roastduck88 — 2008-05-30T08:53:25-08:00

There's a orage wire underneath the Driver side dash that is attached to the Theft warning module (I beleive it's a silver box underneath the dash). Ground that orange wire and you will see your security light shut off instead of flashing. If the light continues to flash then you either didnt' ground it properly or you have the wrong wire.

Re: Help with 1995 j-30 (elche1)

coachdave — 2008-05-20T09:07:53-08:00

Quote, originally posted by elche1 raquo;

I have 2 questons:

1) Does anyone know how to disconnect the alarm system or bypass the system?

2) My J-30 1995 cranks but dosn't start. The Sparks are good, and fuel pressure is good also. Where can I go from here. I think it might have something to due with the alarm . I get no siren or horn on the security system.

I have this same prob.

Here is what happened. Car would not start, tried jumping it, nothing. All electric works (as a matter of fact the radio worked for the first time in forever).

Someone told me it might be Neutral Safety Switch. So i put car in Neutral and it turned right over.

After this every once in a while it would not start, i would put it in neutral, wiggle it a little and it would start.

One time nothing i did would get it to start, so i left it overnight where it was and went back next day and thought i would try it and in neutral it turned right over. Got it home, but now it wil not start at all. Again all electric works no prob, just wont start.

At this point i am assuming it is this Neutral Safety Switch.

Is this something i can DIY?

Where can i get info on doing this work?

I see that some people are saying check fuses. Should i do that??

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks, Coach

Re: Help with 1995 j-30 (crossbones668)

gr8scott72 — 2008-04-19T10:54:13-08:00

Quote, originally posted by crossbones668 raquo;

Try replacing the fuses, and check the coils, water in the distibutor, etc.

water in the what?

j30t_Dan — 2008-04-15T01:30:48-08:00

thanks so much guys

Re: Help with 1995 j-30 (elche1)

crossbones668 — 2008-04-08T07:08:36-08:00

Try replacing the fuses, and check the coils, water in the distibutor, etc.

Help with 1995 j-30

elche1 — 2008-03-20T12:35:08-08:00

I have 2 questons:

1) Does anyone know how to disconnect the alarm system or bypass the system?

Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work (rclem7)

infinitirydah — 2008-03-11T23:13:51-08:00

thanks a lot for all the info, replacing that belt is a b***h, but it should be a lot easier now that i have somewhat of an idea of what im doing.

Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work (mad1sdaddy)

Gerardjg — 2008-03-11T13:55:05-08:00

Quote, originally posted by mad1sdaddy raquo;

looking for any tips on ease of extraction for the o2 sensor on a 94. why couldnt nissan have put it on the passenger side exhaust, there is so much more room on that side.

There is one on the passenger side

Soak the threads with PB Blaster for a couple of hours + invest 10 bucks on a O2 sensor socket, I did them a while back so I do not recall the exact procedure.
SEARCH it is posted here somewhere.

Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work (driverdriver)

mad1sdaddy — 2008-03-05T15:05:56-08:00

looking for any tips on ease of extraction for the o2 sensor on a 94. why couldnt nissan have put it on the passenger side exhaust, there is so much more room on that side.

Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work - PCV valve Replacement (crossbones668)

atowersmusic — 2008-03-05T05:49:57-08:00

that answers a lot of my questions

thanks glad i found this section

Re: (driverdriver)

atowersmusic — 2008-03-05T05:48:02-08:00

thanks for the work and help you are given us

Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work (rclem7)

rclem7 — 2008-03-03T19:09:36-08:00

I found this link in another post and found much of it useful. Just thought I would share. Lots of DIY stuff and diagrams.

http://www.fuzzycats.com/j30.htm

Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work (infinitirydah)

rclem7 — 2008-02-27T11:39:19-08:00

Belt Replacement:

I will try and explain as best I can since I just did this a week ago.

You will have to start by removing the intake tubing, and the two radiator hoses. This will open up the top of the engine and allow you to work.

Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work (driverdriver)

infinitirydah — 2008-02-25T09:32:31-08:00

im trying to figure out how to replace the alternator V belt, but i cant figure out how to, any help or advice appreciated.

Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work - PCV valve Replacement

crossbones668 — 2008-02-11T13:23:34-08:00

The J30 has two PCV valves. One is located on each side of the intake manifold, located about halfway back, and screws directly into the plenum.

This is a simple job that requires a little muscle. You will need a 19mm deep socket, a 4" extender, a socket wrench, a large blade flathead screwdriver, and two PCV valves. An optional tool is a 45-degree needle nose pliers for the hose clamps.

Three basic problems are that the PCV valves tend to stick fast in the plenum and take some muscle to break loose; the flexible PCV house at the rear ends of the valves are short and hard to get on and off; and the PCV valve on the drivers side cannot be removed without freeing the adjacent wiring harness from the three clips that hold it in place.

Important things to remember before finishing the job:
1) Reconnect the ground cable on the drivers side,
2) Reconnect the wiring harness clips on the drivers side.

Loosen the hose clamp behind the valve and slide back.
Inspect hose for dryrot.
Use the side of the flathead blade to slide the hose off the valve.
Unscrew the valve, trying to get the wrench action behind the trailing edge of the manifold. On the passenger side, mind that you don't bang the lines in that area.
Replace the PCV valve.
Reattach the hose and reseat the clamp.
Proceed to the other side and repeat.

Note that the thread body will not screw all the way into the plenum, and should not be forced.

Note that nothing should ever be screwed into or unscrewed from a hot piece of metal.

driverdriver — 2008-02-10T19:56:44-08:00

Some nice informative write up guys. I'm very impressed. Keep em coming.

naladude911, do you just have a simple write up regarding changing parking lights? Let me know and I'll fire you off an email.

FRONT BRAKE PADS

Listof7 — 2008-02-08T19:50:47-08:00

This is an easy maintainence job which can be performed alone or with a buddy to keep you company.

Difficultly level is comparable to an oil change.

Time is 30 minutes to 2 hours depending on skill level and if you chose to waste time being angry.

Have all items ready before starting.

TOOLS:

Eye Protection Gloves are a good idea
4" C-clamp (6" is ok also)
Jack ( Stands if you gott'em)
Wheel Blocks (Brick works ok)
Lug-Wrench
14mm socket
hammer or malet may come in handy
Bungy Cord

PARTS:
Brake Pads ($25-$35 aftermarket)
Some Brake Lube (not a live or die item, but a good idea $3)
Maybe brake fluid ($3)

STEPS:
1:Make sure you're on a level surface

2:Block the rear wheels

3:Remove center caps from wheels

4:Before jacking up, break the lug nuts loose using a star pattern (start with any one, then go to the next one in order as if you're drawing a star)

5:Properly place jack and raise car. (If you have them place stands now, if not, once you remove the tire, place it under car, without removing jack, as a emergency catcher)

6:Completely remove lug nuts and wheel

7:Inspect and remember how this looks for replacement later. There should be a large "device" at 2 O'clock on the rotor, this is your caliper and your pads are held by this assembly.

8: Find and remove the two 14mm bolts which are accessed on the back of the caliper. You'll know you have the right ones because of their size and they should have a rubber boot connected to them. When you do the top bolt, there is a hose, attached, LEAVE IT ATTACHED, just move it gently out of your way. Once bolts are out, leave caliper for now. (Bolt removal may require a few taps with the hammer to your ratchet, to break them free)

9:Wrap the bungy cord around the springs on shocks, leave some slack, you'll use this to help hold the caliper for you while you work

10:Now remove caliper. If the caliper doesn't remove easily, tap it LIGHTLY with the hammer and then remove it.

11:Hook the bungy threw the bolt holes on calipers.

12: Open hood and loosen brake fluid lid. You will have some brake fluid over flow when you compress the pistons, this is normal. Remember to re-tighten lid before using brakes.

13:On the caliper, you'll see 2 pistons. Using the C-clamp, do one piston at a time. Place the stationary end of the C-clamp on the back of the caliper and the moving end on the end of the piston. Now compress the piston (tighten C-clamp) until it stops completely. The reason you do this is because the piston has self adjusted to compensate for the worn out pads, the new pads will be thicker and unless you re-compress the pistons, you'll never get the assembly back together.

14: Now wiggle the pads free and place them on the ground in a way which gives you a clue as to how and where they came off from. When you wiggle them free, just use common sense to not damage anything. You'll kinda tilt the outside pad and bring it out, the back pads seems to come almost straight out. remember the angles that get them out so you can reverse that to re-install the new pads.

15:Blow away any pieces of crud and excessive dust

16: Follow lube instruction if you're using it.

***DO NOT LUBE THE PAD ITSELF OR THE ROTOR!!! Brakes require friction to works--of course--and lube reduces friction.***

17: Replace pads, the back pad has the clip/tit/nipple thing but you already know that because you remembered how they came out

18: Replace caliper. If caliper doesn't go on fairly easy, something is wrong, most likely the pistons need compressed further. Once caliper is in place, bolts should thread easily and be tightened tightly, but not stripped.

19: re tighten brake fluid lid

20: Without getting in the car, open the door, turn it on, press brake peddle with your hand to do a preliminary test before replacing wheels. Pump it a few times, once it has full pressure you may notice that the peddle doesn't go down as far = thicker pads require less travel.

21: Put the wheels back on, then using the star pattern -- hand tighten the lug nuts as tight as your hand will do. You will need to wiggle the wheel a little to get it snug as you go. Once the wheel can't wiggle anymore and the lugs are very hand tight. Slowly lower the car. Once it's on the ground finish tightening the lugs with your lug wrench. Leave center caps OFF.

22:Carefully/slowly drive and test brakes. If they fail you will calmly USE YOUR E-BRAKE peddle to stop -- just as you would if your brakes failed any other time.

23: re-check the lug nuts to make sure they're all tight and replace center cap

24:Put away all your tools in order and clean up any mess. (Make this a habit )

25:Pat yourself on the back, this is when you have your beer.

Consider a few things...

Are the old pads you took off NISSAN brand? If so, this may indicate the previous owner preferred factory service and/or parts. GOOD

Did you notice how the rotor shifted in place once you stared taking this apart? Well, only 2 more bolts -- located on the back side of brake assembly and it FALLS off in your hands. Not to hard to replace rotors now that you've been in there.

Modified by Listof7 at 9:24 PM 2/9/2008

Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work (driverdriver)

hpedolzky — 2008-02-07T17:21:57-08:00

Headlight relay repair.

Just purchased 1996 J30 (great condition, low mileage). entire passenger ligths were out. Did some research, told me the headlight relay was probably dead. Looked for relay for approx. 45 minutes, it is not in the relay/fuse compartment on the passenger side inside the engine compartment. It is located inside the drivesr side engine compartment by the firewall, secured by 1 11mm screw. Once I found it, it took only about 5 minutes to get it out, very tight fit. It has 2 locked plugs, which can easily be removed with a slotted screwdriver. Once you have the relay out, gently remove the bottom cover, I had to break some of the lip to get it separated. The bottom then slides out and you have a small circuit board with 4 relays on it. Resolder all relay connection (mine had one bad connection on the main RH light relay). I plugged the relay back in and tried all the lightsm before I put the circuit board back into the top, snap the bottom back, then seal the bttom with any waterproof seal. Getting the relay back into postion was a little harder, since the wires are about 2 inches to short to make re install easy, but it can be done. Be sure, the 2 plugs snap securely into place and re mount the relay.
Good luck!

naladude911 — 2008-01-28T06:27:47-08:00

umm, changing your parking lights. I made powerpoint on how to do it, but I dont know how to upload it onto NICO

Re: (chicteenager)

puck — 2007-12-19T19:06:28-08:00

Those lines were next to impossible to pull off. I think I did eventually pull one off. I decided it wasn't worth the effort on the opposite side so I used a razor to put a slit in the side of the line. That loosened the line enough to easily pull the filter out. I just cut off the part of the line I put the slit in. There was plenty of extra line on each side to do this on my J30. I can't speak for a Sentra, however.

Re: (puck)

chicteenager — 2007-12-19T06:59:42-08:00

Hi Puck,

Thanks for the posting the instruction on how to replace the fuel filter. I tried replacing my old fuel filter (1997 Nissan Sentra) but could not remove the old fuel filter from the tubes that attach to it. Do you have any idea on what i should do? My friend suggested that I cut the tube and replace it with a new one. What do you think? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thankss!!

Re: Tune-Up Questions (j3097inf)

Gerardjg — 2007-11-28T02:57:33-08:00

Quote, originally posted by j3097inf raquo;

hey do you think you can send me a copy the fuse box diagram?...the one below the steering wheel

YHEM

Re: Tune-Up Questions (mechanicsvillej30)

j3097inf — 2007-11-27T15:48:43-08:00

hey do you think you can send me a copy the fuse box diagram?...the one below the steering wheel

Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work (driverdriver)

Gerardjg — 2007-10-22T20:19:55-08:00

Here is a How to on the drivers door control panel Bulbs http://home.cfl.rr.com/dandgsystems/J30.htm

And the Passenger door bulbs are basically the same Just turn the switch over
and remove the bulb holder with a pair of tweezers, it is replaced similar to
the instructions above just a longer post.

Here is a how to for the bulbs in the heated seat switches http://home.cfl.rr.com/dandgsy...t.htm

Re: Tune-Up Questions (elan)

idcp — 2007-10-02T01:02:25-08:00

I have been using bosch platinium 4s, in my j30 for about 6 months now. they seem to do just fine.

If you ever need a write up of how to replace the alternator, in a j30 i could do that, i have had mine in and out probably 5 times. The first time was hard but, now i can do it rather quickly.

Also a high preasure power steering hose is a common problem, yet somewhat difficult to remove and reinstall. yet it is possible to do with little or no tools.

The real thing about the j30s is they alway leave just enough room to do things on the j30. you may have to wiggle the part in, and turn in around 20 times before you find the perfect combination of angles. but there is a way.

Re: Tune-Up Questions (elan)

mechanicsvillej30 — 2007-09-13T09:14:29-08:00

Thanks!
TC

Re: Tune-Up Questions (mechanicsvillej30)

elan — 2007-09-13T09:04:35-08:00

mechanicsvillej30 there is nothing special about changing the coil over plugs. Here is the sequence

- Disconnect the wiring from the coil
- unscrew the coil
- pull it out gently
- unscrew the plug, you will need a wrench with a long extension to reach the plugs.
- put everything back in the opposite order.

you do not need to know the gap as you never adjust it given you use recommended NGK Double Platinum which is stock and they pretty last their life of 60kmiles. The use of others is not recommended as people report problems. Though I was using Denso Iridium in mine - they were working OK. NGK DP are about 18 CDN retail in Canada and 12USD in the US per piece.

Tune-Up Questions

mechanicsvillej30 — 2007-08-20T11:44:42-08:00

Just bought a 1997 J30. Looking for information on how to tune it up. Have never changed the coil-over type plugs. Also need to know the gap for the plugs. Also looking for how-to info for setting the timing. Used to do it years ago on a VW beetle by turning the distributor. How do you retard and advance the timing on these things? THANKS-Anybody that can help or steer me somewhere.
TC/Mechanicsville, VA

Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work (driverdriver)

on41greyst — 2007-08-05T17:04:01-08:00

I have a 1994 Infinity and the brake lights will not shut off.. need help

yodawill2000 — 2007-06-10T07:48:17-08:00

Maybe vent the gas cap as well if you dont clamp the fuel line.
Good point Puck.

Modified by yodawill2000 at 9:02 AM 6/10/2007