Stay tuned. ]]> GThreat 2009-06-25T15:31:31-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=217641;postid=4863854#4863854 Catalytic converters ever been replaced Sounds like your code is tripping your knock sensors and they may have to be replaced. Just did mine and when I pulled them out they had severe cracks trough them. Replaced those, and now my Cats are throwing a code. A discussion prior to my KS repair, I was told bad cats could possibly be linked to KS failure. Not sure on the validity of that statement.Only reason I bring up your cats, is you talked about a rotten egg smell in one of your early posts. Been reading all day about cats, and the rotten egg smell is a possible sign.That many miles, and haven't replaced KS or Cats yet, and it may be due time. I'd start with the KS (assuming you are still getting that code). Only reason I bring up your cats, is you talked about a rotten egg smell in one of your early posts. Been reading all day about cats, and the rotten egg smell is a possible sign.

That many miles, and haven't replaced KS or Cats yet, and it may be due time. I'd start with the KS (assuming you are still getting that code).
]]> MikalKintner 2009-06-24T23:32:32-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=217641;postid=4859114#4859114 Hi,Looks like I have gone 2-1/2 yrs now and this problem is still here. It subsided for a while, 6 months after I replaced a leaking gas cap, another 6 months when I sprayed all the electrical connections and visible wires with a di-electric spray.Lately it has become almost a daily problem, but I can get 2 or 3 days when the car runs perfect. This weekend I changed all 8 plugs and used the NGK PFR5G-11. Sunday it ran nicely (short trip) but on Monday it started running rough and threw engine code 306, however the SLIP and TCS lights did not come on (as had in the past when it threw the 1320 code). I added some injector cleaner and it improved but you can still feel it missing every minute or two when idling.Any further thoughtsMany thanksCraig Looks like I have gone 2-1/2 yrs now and this problem is still here. It subsided for a while, 6 months after I replaced a leaking gas cap, another 6 months when I sprayed all the electrical connections and visible wires with a di-electric spray.

Lately it has become almost a daily problem, but I can get 2 or 3 days when the car runs perfect. This weekend I changed all 8 plugs and used the NGK PFR5G-11. Sunday it ran nicely (short trip) but on Monday it started running rough and threw engine code 306, however the SLIP and TCS lights did not come on (as had in the past when it threw the 1320 code). I added some injector cleaner and it improved but you can still feel it missing every minute or two when idling.

Any further thoughts?

Many thanks

Craig ]]> GThreat 2009-06-23T15:42:15-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=217641;postid=2296716#2296716 Quote, originally posted by GThreat Update:I removed the CAS connector yesterday and used some contact cleaner on both the male and female ends. Snapped it back in, cleared the codes and let my wife and daughter drive it.This morning when I checked it had returned the knock sensor P0325, so I cleared it again.Sounds like I am making progress. Any further thoughts are always appreciated.Many thanks.CraigWell you can LIVE with bad KS, just not optimally... I think you might have solved your problem for the time being... Think about replacing your KS. Quote, originally posted by GThreat raquo;Update:

I removed the CAS connector yesterday and used some contact cleaner on both the male and female ends. Snapped it back in, cleared the codes and let my wife and daughter drive it.

This morning when I checked it had returned the knock sensor P0325, so I cleared it again.

Sounds like I am making progress. Any further thoughts are always appreciated.

Many thanks.

Craig

Well you can LIVE with bad KS, just not optimally... I think you might have solved your problem for the time being... Think about replacing your KS. ]]> elwesso 2007-01-02T10:53:37-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=217641;postid=2293017#2293017 Quote, originally posted by elwesso So code 34 would look like this -------- --------- -------- --- --- --- ---Actually, that would be Code 33.Be sure to get the TSB also. Quote, originally posted by elwesso raquo;So code 34 would look like this -------- --------- -------- --- --- --- ---
Actually, that would be Code 33.

Be sure to get the TSB also. ]]> maxnix 2006-12-31T12:30:18-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=217641;postid=2292673#2292673 Update:I removed the CAS connector yesterday and used some contact cleaner on both the male and female ends. Snapped it back in, cleared the codes and let my wife and daughter drive it.This morning when I checked it had returned the knock sensor P0325, so I cleared it again.Sounds like I am making progress. Any further thoughts are always appreciated.Many thanks.Craig I removed the CAS connector yesterday and used some contact cleaner on both the male and female ends. Snapped it back in, cleared the codes and let my wife and daughter drive it.

This morning when I checked it had returned the knock sensor P0325, so I cleared it again.

Sounds like I am making progress. Any further thoughts are always appreciated.

Many thanks.

Craig ]]> GThreat 2006-12-31T08:39:15-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=217641;postid=2286915#2286915 Thanks for the link to the manual, and I cannot believe I have it now and it did not cost me anything! I will let you know my progress.Craig Craig ]]> GThreat 2006-12-28T06:57:25-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=217641;postid=2286310#2286310 Go get the manual at http://www.phatg20.net . youll need winrar to extract it. Just telling you for your own convenience I dont mind putting all these pages up from the FSM... its a definite as far as what you need...The cas is on the drivers side valve cover on the front of the motor... http://www.phatg20.net . youll need winrar to extract it. Just telling you for your own convenience I dont mind putting all these pages up from the FSM... its a definite as far as what you need...

The cas is on the drivers side valve cover on the front of the motor... ]]> elwesso 2006-12-27T20:36:54-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=217641;postid=2286225#2286225 Thanks for helping to pin down the culprit. Makes sense and I will start with the easy stuff now. I hate to ask, but not having the manual, is the CAS easy to findCraig Craig ]]> GThreat 2006-12-27T20:14:25-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=217641;postid=2286206#2286206 A reasonable mistake, I did that the first time too when doing the diagnosis on a Y33... Its weird having OBD port and consult port..Anyway, the slip and TCS light doesnt really tell us much of anything, however its telling us that something is in fail safe (restating the obvious)... Kind of stupid it would throw the CEL and slip/TCS lights for engine related failsafe status!Ideally what youd like to do is put in a data monitor and log all of the engine parameter when it starts doing it ... that way we can tell whats going on by comparing as read voltages with what is normal.However, we can try things that dont cost anything for sort of a trial and error helps rule out the annoying stuff. I would try cleaning the CAS connector making sure theres no corrosion or anything. Might as well try it.. I always recommend people doing things from easy to hard regardless of if they may do anything.... it may fix it, it may not but at least we can rule it out if it doesnt do anything....Since this is an intermittant problem, im inclined to think its not a coil because that would be a more permanent failure, and thers no failsafe regarding ignition coils, they just die and throw a CEL! If the ECU is in failsafe mode, that means its a major sensor thats failed (CAS, MAF, Temp, etc), and since the CAS is the only one having to do with the ignition circuit, seems like we have our culprit. ive never heard of a CAS going on a Y33 however Im sure you'd be honored to be number 1!!! Anyway, the slip and TCS light doesnt really tell us much of anything, however its telling us that something is in fail safe (restating the obvious)... Kind of stupid it would throw the CEL and slip/TCS lights for engine related failsafe status!

Ideally what youd like to do is put in a data monitor and log all of the engine parameter when it starts doing it ... that way we can tell whats going on by comparing as read voltages with what is normal.

However, we can try things that dont cost anything for sort of a trial and error helps rule out the annoying stuff. I would try cleaning the CAS connector making sure theres no corrosion or anything. Might as well try it.. I always recommend people doing things from easy to hard regardless of if they may do anything.... it may fix it, it may not but at least we can rule it out if it doesnt do anything....

Since this is an intermittant problem, im inclined to think its not a coil because that would be a more permanent failure, and thers no failsafe regarding ignition coils, they just die and throw a CEL! If the ECU is in failsafe mode, that means its a major sensor thats failed (CAS, MAF, Temp, etc), and since the CAS is the only one having to do with the ignition circuit, seems like we have our culprit.

ive never heard of a CAS going on a Y33 however Im sure you'd be honored to be number 1!!!

]]> elwesso 2006-12-27T20:08:17-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=217641;postid=2286180#2286180 Wow...newbie naivety strikes again...my apologies, what I thought was the data link connector was the OBD port!It has returned an 84 (engine parts are under fail safe condition) and a 12 (self diagnosis coud not detect any malfunctions).Sorry,Craig It has returned an 84 (engine parts are under fail safe condition) and a 12 (self diagnosis coud not detect any malfunctions).

Sorry,

Craig ]]> GThreat 2006-12-27T19:59:51-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=217641;postid=2286127#2286127 Code 80 is what Im looking for.. It uses the CAS signal to determine RPM... If its not getting it, its going to go into failsafe, and as the chart says the slip and TCS lights will come on.Maybe im going the wrong direction with this, but it seems too weird that the CEL and TCS lights would come on at hte same time to think its coincidental....What I need ot know is when this happens, can you not go higher than 2000 RPM If thats the case that indicates CAS fail safe, at least im pretty sure it does. i know 2000 RPM rev limit does that for early Q but im having a hard time confirming it for later models, however im inclined to think that is the case. Maybe im going the wrong direction with this, but it seems too weird that the CEL and TCS lights would come on at hte same time to think its coincidental....

What I need ot know is when this happens, can you not go higher than 2000 RPM? If thats the case that indicates CAS fail safe, at least im pretty sure it does. i know 2000 RPM rev limit does that for early Q but im having a hard time confirming it for later models, however im inclined to think that is the case. ]]> elwesso 2006-12-27T19:41:49-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=217641;postid=2286094#2286094 OK, here is what I did:1. Drove the car for a few minutes at 30 mph, parked it and turned off.2. Placed the end of a copper wire so it was a snug fit into the Data Link connector #4 (I counted over 4 holes on the top row) and then grounded it to a metal component close by.3. Turned the ignition switch on and waited for the SLIP light to flash.It never did, so assuming I followed the instructions correctly, there is no indication of a malfunction in the ABS/TCS system. To be sure I repeated steps 2 and 3 (changed grounding points as well) a few times but there was no change.But I am not sure how this would relate to an ignition coil or cam sensor problem!Thanks again.Craig 1. Drove the car for a few minutes at 30 mph, parked it and turned off.
2. Placed the end of a copper wire so it was a snug fit into the Data Link connector #4 (I counted over 4 holes on the top row) and then grounded it to a metal component close by.
3. Turned the ignition switch on and waited for the SLIP light to flash.

It never did, so assuming I followed the instructions correctly, there is no indication of a malfunction in the ABS/TCS system. To be sure I repeated steps 2 and 3 (changed grounding points as well) a few times but there was no change.

But I am not sure how this would relate to an ignition coil or cam sensor problem!

Thanks again.

Craig ]]> GThreat 2006-12-27T19:31:17-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=217641;postid=2285957#2285957 CraigWell since the slip and TCS lights come on we can do a self diagnosis on the TCS control unit and see what is going on.Attached is the self diagnostic procedure... To interprit the codes, you count the flashes. Long flashes mean the 10's digit, short flashes are the 1's digit...So code 34 would look like this -------- --------- -------- --- --- --- ---Click the images to enlarge them. Well since the slip and TCS lights come on we can do a self diagnosis on the TCS control unit and see what is going on.

Attached is the self diagnostic procedure... To interprit the codes, you count the flashes. Long flashes mean the 10's digit, short flashes are the 1's digit...

So code 34 would look like this -------- --------- -------- --- --- --- ---

Click the images to enlarge them.

]]> elwesso 2006-12-27T18:36:57-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=217641;postid=2285917#2285917 Thanks for your quick reply, and sorry I was not able to make the conditions very clear. Yes, the problem only occurs when the SLIP and TCS lights come on, and again this is my wife and daughter's solemn testimony.Craig Craig ]]> GThreat 2006-12-27T18:25:14-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=217641;postid=2285880#2285880 Welcome to NICO Craig!!!Main thing we'll concern ourselves with is the P1320 code...ACcording to the FSM its either the ignition coil or the cam angle sensor, im inclinted to think the former...if this is intermittant your going to have more problems finding which coil it is. infiniti dealer is going to want to replace all 8 coils for some ridiculous price which is certainly not necessary!Does the problem only come on with the slip and TCS lights That could be a clue... Main thing we'll concern ourselves with is the P1320 code...

ACcording to the FSM its either the ignition coil or the cam angle sensor, im inclinted to think the former...

if this is intermittant your going to have more problems finding which coil it is. infiniti dealer is going to want to replace all 8 coils for some ridiculous price which is certainly not necessary!

Does the problem only come on with the slip and TCS lights? That could be a clue... ]]> elwesso 2006-12-27T18:13:48-08:00 http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=217641;postid=2285750#2285750 Happy Holidays, and thought I could use some of my spare time to diagnose the problem with my wife's Q45 and prepare this my first post. I did a search in the forum for the P1320 code and could not find exactly what I was looking for.The problem started about a month and a half ago when the TCS and SLIP lights came on, and shortly therafter the service engine soon light. When this happens the car's engine vibrates (wants to stall when idling) and the car cannot be driven much over 40 mph. Turning off the car and waiting overnight cures the problem (TCS and SLIP lights go off, engine runs fine), but it returns on the average once a week. So it has happened about 6 times now, with the latest occurence producing a rotten egg smell. All these details were supplied to me by my wife and daughters, as the car has never done this when I am around. My OBD II scanner returned 3 codes:1. P1320 Mfg Ctrl - Ignition system or misfire2. P0325 Knock Sensor 1 - Circuit malf - Bank 1 or sensor 13. P1320 PENDINGAny suggestions would be much appreciated.Thanks!Craig The problem started about a month and a half ago when the TCS and SLIP lights came on, and shortly therafter the service engine soon light. When this happens the car's engine vibrates (wants to stall when idling) and the car cannot be driven much over 40 mph. Turning off the car and waiting overnight cures the problem (TCS and SLIP lights go off, engine runs fine), but it returns on the average once a week. So it has happened about 6 times now, with the latest occurence producing a rotten egg smell. All these details were supplied to me by my wife and daughters, as the car has never done this when I am around.

My OBD II scanner returned 3 codes:

1. P1320 Mfg Ctrl - Ignition system or misfire
2. P0325 Knock Sensor 1 - Circuit malf - Bank 1 or sensor 1
3. P1320 PENDING

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

Craig ]]> GThreat 2006-12-27T16:58:13-08:00