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<channel>
  <title>Nissan Forums / Infiniti Forums - NICOclub: Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeroforum?id=88</link> 
  <description>Nissan Forums / Infiniti Forums - NICOclub: Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</description> 
  <dc:language>en-us</dc:language> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-21T18:34:53-08:00</dc:date> 
  <sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod> 
  <sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency> 
  <sy:updateBase>1970-01-01T00:00+00:00</sy:updateBase> 
  <image>
  <title>Nissan Forums / Infiniti Forums - NICOclub</title> 
  <url>http://images.zeroforum.com/new/1/pixel.gif</url> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com</link> 
  </image><item>
  <title>KA Bellhousing Bolt Pattern</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=461556</link> 
  <description>I know this is probably a long shot...but does anyone have a print for the bolt pattern for the KA bell housing/ bolt pattern on the back of the block.  A print thats preferrably OEM or if not fairly close to perfect dimensionally. </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ I know this is probably a long shot...but does anyone have a print for the bolt pattern for the KA bell housing/ bolt pattern on the back of the block.  A print thats preferrably OEM or if not fairly close to perfect dimensionally.  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>Mistaken</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-11T10:41:23-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>GA16DE to SR20DE swap...wiring harness question</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=461536</link> 
  <description>I've been hearing different things and so far I can't find the answer. Would an auto harness from the SR20DE swap to a 5 spd I know there would probably be some extra plugs left over but I can't find the 5spd harness anywhere!</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ I've been hearing different things and so far I can't find the answer. Would an auto harness from the SR20DE swap to a 5 spd? I know there would probably be some extra plugs left over but I can't find the 5spd harness anywhere! ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>bakwoods</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-18T12:57:07-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>nissan nx 1600</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=461419</link> 
  <description>i need help finding parts for my 92 nissan nx plz help</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ i need help finding parts for my 92 nissan nx plz help ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>nx925</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-18T12:55:38-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>240SX with a Toyota jzgte twin turbo engine installed</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=460672</link> 
  <description>Hey guys, just thought I'd get on here to gather some info before a buy a 240. I've found a 240 with a Toyota jzgte twin turbo engine installed in it.Was just wandering if anyone could give me some insight on if this is legit, or a good buy, or what to look for...etc. things like thatThanks</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Hey guys, just thought I'd get on here to gather some info before a buy a 240. <p/>I've found a 240 with a Toyota jzgte twin turbo engine installed in it.<p/>Was just wandering if anyone could give me some insight on if this is legit, or a good buy, or what to look for...etc. things like that<p/>Thanks ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>TAP240</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-06T10:19:14-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>heater in 1990 infiniti q45 not working</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=460378</link> 
  <description>i bought a 1990 infiniti q45 a year ago. i had a used motor put in and it runs okay but not the way i feel it should be. the motor runs loud. so i am sceptical about the ccar. anyways. my heater on the 2 vents on the dash by the door if you put your hand by them you can feel warm air so i dont think the heater core is bad. but the heater will not blow the air and is not defrosting or heating up the car. what coudl be the problem</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ i bought a 1990 infiniti q45 a year ago. i had a used motor put in and it runs okay but not the way i feel it should be. the motor runs loud. so i am sceptical about the ccar. anyways. my heater on the 2 vents on the dash by the door if you put your hand by them you can feel warm air so i dont think the heater core is bad. but the heater will not blow the air and is not defrosting or heating up the car. what coudl be the problem ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>blondi</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-04T19:01:16-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>GT WING AND AERODYNAMIC QUESTION AND ROOF SPOILER W/GT WING POINTLESS</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=456924</link> 
  <description>HI! I HAVE A 1995 NISSAN 240SX, I HAVE FULL AERO BODY KIT READY TO INSTALL AND PLANNING TO GET FRONT SPLITTER AND REAR LOWER DIFFUSER, BUT I WANT TO GET REAR WING NOW, AND WAS LOOKING AT SOME OF THEM, PLANNING TO GET A 2 DECK GT STYLE WING, BUT WHY THE TOP DECK IS SHORTER THEN THE BOTTOM ONE HOW DOES HAVING 2 DECK WORKS BETTER COMPARE TO SINGLE DECK ONES, AND NEW GT WINGS NOW A DAYS ARE CURVED AND HAVE A HUMP UPWARD AT THE MIDDLE (SEEMS LESS SLOPE, LESS DOWN FORCE) DOES IT REALLY INCREASE MORE DOWN FORCE WITH THE HUMP IN THE MIDDLE OF THE WING AND HAVE IT BEING CURVED COMPARE TO TRADITIONAL STRAIGHT FLAT GT WINGS OR JUST GETTING A FACTORY KOUKI S14 SPOILER IS GOOD ENOUGHALSO ABOUT ROOF SPOILERS.... IS IT POINTLESS TO ADD A ROOF SPOILER AFTER I ADD A GT WING BECAUSE THE SPOILER SPOIL THE AIR MOVEMENT RIGHT AT THE END OF THE ROOF PANEL, BY THE TIME IT GET TO THE REAR WING THE AIR MOVEMENT IS DISTURBED OR DIFFUSING AND THE WING WILL NOT BE ABLE TO DO ANY EFFECT OR SHOULD I MOUNT THE WING HIGHERI KNOW I MAY NOT MAKE ANY SCENE OR SOUND STUPID BUT I'M JUST STARTING TO LEARN HOW AERO WORK AND WANT TO MAKE SURE I'M MAKING THE RIGHT CHOICE, SETTING IT UP RIGHT SO THAT IT FUNCTION, NOT JUST SITTING THERE AND  LOOK RICEY, ANY INPUT HELPS! I KNOW NICO IS THE RIGHT PLACE TO FIND ANSWER WITH THE HELP WITH ALL SERIOUS MEMBERS, THANKYOU!!!!!!!  </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ HI! I HAVE A 1995 NISSAN 240SX, I HAVE FULL AERO BODY KIT READY TO INSTALL AND PLANNING TO GET FRONT SPLITTER AND REAR LOWER DIFFUSER, BUT I WANT TO GET REAR WING NOW, AND WAS LOOKING AT SOME OF THEM, PLANNING TO GET A 2 DECK GT STYLE WING, BUT WHY THE TOP DECK IS SHORTER THEN THE BOTTOM ONE? HOW DOES HAVING 2 DECK WORKS BETTER COMPARE TO SINGLE DECK ONES, AND NEW GT WINGS NOW A DAYS ARE CURVED AND HAVE A HUMP UPWARD AT THE MIDDLE (SEEMS LESS SLOPE, LESS DOWN FORCE)? DOES IT REALLY INCREASE MORE DOWN FORCE WITH THE HUMP IN THE MIDDLE OF THE WING AND HAVE IT BEING CURVED COMPARE TO TRADITIONAL STRAIGHT FLAT GT WINGS? OR JUST GETTING A FACTORY KOUKI S14 SPOILER IS GOOD ENOUGH?<p/>ALSO ABOUT ROOF SPOILERS.... IS IT POINTLESS TO ADD A ROOF SPOILER AFTER I ADD A GT WING? BECAUSE THE SPOILER SPOIL THE AIR MOVEMENT RIGHT AT THE END OF THE ROOF PANEL, BY THE TIME IT GET TO THE REAR WING THE AIR MOVEMENT IS DISTURBED OR DIFFUSING AND THE WING WILL NOT BE ABLE TO DO ANY EFFECT? OR SHOULD I MOUNT THE WING HIGHER?<p/>I KNOW I MAY NOT MAKE ANY SCENE OR SOUND STUPID BUT I'M JUST STARTING TO LEARN HOW AERO WORK AND WANT TO MAKE SURE I'M MAKING THE RIGHT CHOICE, SETTING IT UP RIGHT SO THAT IT FUNCTION, NOT JUST SITTING THERE AND  LOOK RICEY, ANY INPUT HELPS! I KNOW NICO IS THE RIGHT PLACE TO FIND ANSWER WITH THE HELP WITH ALL SERIOUS MEMBERS, THANKYOU!!!!!!! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif" BORDER="0"/>  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>po_bo</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-07T05:14:11-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>q45 subframe</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=455364</link> 
  <description>i know that a lot of people do the Q diff swap in 240sx (rear subframe)...  are the cross members the same too... 94q45 and s14 thanks</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ i know that a lot of people do the Q diff swap in 240sx (rear subframe)...  are the cross members the same too... 94q45 and s14? thanks ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>1745</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-10T07:29:02-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Why do larger turbos output more power than small turbos at the same PSI</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=453847</link> 
  <description>How can big turbos supply more air but be at the same pressure if the volume of the intake manifold hasn't changed 10 psi going through the manifold should be the same amount of air.Obviously I'm missing something since bigger turbos do offer more power so can someone please explain it to me EDIT: Here's exactly what's confusing me:Ideal gas law: PV=mRTIn order to make more power, I would have to increase the amount of gas (air) going into the engine (increase m). R is constant and we are holding P constant (10 PSI let's say). The intake manifold is unchanged so V is also constant But If I increase m, either V has to increase, or T has to decrease. I would think T remains relatively constant (so maybe this is what I'm missing)
Modified by jeb1517 at 7:55 PM 10/2/2009</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ How can big turbos supply more air but be at the same pressure if the volume of the intake manifold hasn't changed? 10 psi going through the manifold should be the same amount of air.<p/>Obviously I'm missing something since bigger turbos do offer more power so can someone please explain it to me? <p/>EDIT: Here's exactly what's confusing me:<p/>Ideal gas law: PV=mRT<p/>In order to make more power, I would have to increase the amount of gas (air) going into the engine (increase m). R is constant and we are holding P constant (10 PSI let's say). The intake manifold is unchanged so V is also constant???? But If I increase m, either V has to increase, or T has to decrease. I would think T remains relatively constant (so maybe this is what I'm missing?)<BR/><BR/>
<i>Modified by jeb1517 at 7:55 PM 10/2/2009</i> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>jeb1517</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-14T15:13:56-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>10</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>longer final drive for my S15 R200 Diff- 350Z G35</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=453221</link> 
  <description>I want to upgrade my helical S15 Diff to a LSD like the Nismo GT PRO TT this winter.In this procedure I would like to install a longer final drive.My stock one is 3.692.Ive seen 350Z und G35 ATM Versions do have 3.35.Does this 3.35 final gear set, containing drive gear ring and pinion gear, fit to my R200 Diff housing</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I want to upgrade my helical S15 Diff to a LSD like the Nismo GT PRO TT this winter.<br/>In this procedure I would like to install a longer final drive.<br/>My stock one is 3.692.<br/>I´ve seen 350Z und G35 ATM Versions do have 3.35.<p/>Does this 3.35 final gear set, containing drive gear ring and pinion gear, fit to my R200 Diff housing?<br/> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>Benne</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-09-30T05:00:26-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>What is Max torque strength on GA16DE crankshaft</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=452259</link> 
  <description>What is the maximum torque a stock crank in a '92 Sentra GA16DE will handleAnd does anyone know if that's different for a white-top (white valve cover) GA16DE  We were told by Nissan  mechanics that the white-top is a performance version normally found only in Japan, but somehow my son bought a used '92 Sentra XE with one here in the US.  Time to rebuild and we're wondering how far to take modifications before going to a custom crank.Thanks!J</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ What is the maximum torque a stock crank in a '92 Sentra GA16DE will handle?<p/>And does anyone know if that's different for a white-top (white valve cover) GA16DE?  We were told by Nissan  mechanics that the white-top is a performance version normally found only in Japan, but somehow my son bought a used '92 Sentra XE with one here in the US.  Time to rebuild and we're wondering how far to take modifications before going to a custom crank.<p/>Thanks!<p/>J ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>Jacobus77</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-09-26T21:21:07-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>4</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Does the M45 eng. have an equivalent to hydraulic lifters (eg: lash eliminator)</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=452067</link> 
  <description>Hello, folks.You can probably infer from my log in name that I have a box full of fractional tools.  However, my metric collection is rapidly growing with relatives  and newer cars sharing my attention.The immediate issue is my daughter's Infiniti with the M45 engine.  It started the other morning with a very loud clanging sound.  It sounded about half engine speed and my knee-jerk reaction was a collapsed lifter.  I then thought for a while and to my understanding a DOHC engine shouldn't have lifters.  Since the noise was quite scary, it was flat-bedded to the dealer.  The dealer also said it was a lifter, but my daughter said her dad didn't think DOHC engines had them.  The dealer said they have an analogous part; that is the thrust of the topic title.  Is his statement trueRelated question:  can I download (somewhere) an exploded and annotated drawing of the M45  Or, failing that, technical drawings of the valve trainAny help would be appreciated.T-BIRDMAN</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ Hello, folks.<p/>You can probably infer from my log in name that I have a box full of fractional tools.  However, my metric collection is rapidly growing with relatives  and newer cars sharing my attention.<p/>The immediate issue is my daughter's Infiniti with the M45 engine.  It started the other morning with a very loud clanging sound.  It sounded about half engine speed and my knee-jerk reaction was a collapsed lifter.  I then thought for a while and to my understanding a DOHC engine shouldn't have lifters.  Since the noise was quite scary, it was flat-bedded to the dealer.  The dealer also said it was a lifter, but my daughter said her dad didn't think DOHC engines had them.  The dealer said they have an analogous part; that is the thrust of the topic title.  Is his statement true?<p/>Related question:  can I download (somewhere) an exploded and annotated drawing of the M45?  Or, failing that, technical drawings of the valve train?<p/>Any help would be appreciated.<p/>T-BIRDMAN ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>T-BIRDMAN</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-09-29T19:04:57-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>1991 240sx Temperature Sensor Voltage/Temp Range</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=451434</link> 
  <description>I'm trying to make a cheap fan controller with electronic components and have ran into a little snag. I need to know the Voltage/Temp from cold-hot (100-210) or whatever it may be.If anyone knows, it'd really help. Thanks.</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I'm trying to make a cheap fan controller with electronic components and have ran into a little snag. I need to know the Voltage/Temp from cold-hot (100-210) or whatever it may be.<p/>If anyone knows, it'd really help. Thanks. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>AeonTorpor</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-09-27T00:07:51-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Timing Chain issues on 2001 Infiniti Qx4</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=450931</link> 
  <description>Hi i'm new here, The Nisaan dealer said my timing chain and water pump are bad.  Its making some very slight grumbling or knocking noise very feint. Not very noticeable unless your right next to the car, so its not making a crazy noise or loud or anything.  The dealer said it needs to be replaced. Since the water pump and timing chain or both directly related I can see how this would be possible.  My question is, Is this a super immediate concern Can I wait a little while before I do this Or is it an immediate emergency.  The timing chain job is like 2 grand at the dealer. The dealer said I shouldn't just replace the water pump and not the timing chain too. They said I should do both since they're both related. I wanted to just change the water pump. Is this true Do I need to change both the water pump and the timing chain Or can I just change the water pump.Thanks,-dave
Modified by primetime125 at 2:41 PM 9/18/2009</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Hi i'm new here, <p/>The Nisaan dealer said my timing chain and water pump are bad.  Its making some very slight grumbling or knocking noise very feint. Not very noticeable unless your right next to the car, so its not making a crazy noise or loud or anything.  The dealer said it needs to be replaced. Since the water pump and timing chain or both directly related I can see how this would be possible.  My question is, Is this a super immediate concern? Can I wait a little while before I do this? Or is it an immediate emergency.  The timing chain job is like 2 grand at the dealer. The dealer said I shouldn't just replace the water pump and not the timing chain too. They said I should do both since they're both related. I wanted to just change the water pump. Is this true? Do I need to change both the water pump and the timing chain? Or can I just change the water pump.<p/>Thanks,<br/>-dave<BR/><BR/>
<i>Modified by primetime125 at 2:41 PM 9/18/2009</i> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>primetime125</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-09-18T14:47:38-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>tech help some SR diag. fuel, AFC trouble, load troubles</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=449172</link> 
  <description>looking for some other opinions on this one, dont know how to go about a few issues.let me start with telling you what im working with.1990 toyota corolla couperedtop SRdetT3/T4 TM setupfmicwalbro 255stock injectors apexi AFC neostock ECUuntuned car currentlyISSUE: after any (1-5th or any gear pattern) WOT pass, you put in N it will shut off after a few moments after. you can put it in N and feather the throttle and it will stay alive but 0% car will stall. you can bump start the car and it will continue to idle fine.CONDITION: operating temperature, anything above 3K RPM will cause this issue to occur. car starts up every time and returns to normal idle conditions THOUGHTS: im testing AIC valve and TPS tomorrow for proper voltage, car has no FPR and i assume FP is off, any thoughtsISSUE: car has AFC neo and is pinned in but the car will not start with the wire pins for the MAF are connected, unplug one or the other (MAF or pins for AFC) and car will run fine. ( i have not confirmed this issue, just what i am told) CONDITION: only when one or the other is connected to the harness.THOUGHTS: AFC has failed or a wiring fault. i have not confirmed the wiring is correct (wiring guide tomorrow to confirm the pins are correct)im sorry, im horrible at wording things please excuse my idiotic terms or wordings. i have all tools for diag. and will be going for voltage testing tomorrow. i have a feeling it is a wiring issue.id like some help/advise on any other possibilities to address and find a solution to my issues. thanks in advanced and if you need any more info id be happy to test and report back.</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ looking for some other opinions on this one, dont know how to go about a few issues.<p/><br/>let me start with telling you what im working with.<p/><br/>1990 toyota corolla coupe<br/>redtop SRdet<br/>T3/T4 TM setup<br/>fmic<br/>walbro 255<br/>stock injectors <br/>apexi AFC neo<br/>stock ECU<br/>untuned car currently<p/>ISSUE: after any (1-5th or any gear pattern) WOT pass, you put in N it will shut off after a few moments after. you can put it in N and feather the throttle and it will stay alive but 0% car will stall. you can bump start the car and it will continue to idle fine.<p/>CONDITION: operating temperature, anything above 3K RPM will cause this issue to occur. car starts up every time and returns to normal idle conditions <p/>THOUGHTS: im testing AIC valve and TPS tomorrow for proper voltage, car has no FPR and i assume FP is off, any thoughts?<p/><br/>ISSUE: car has AFC neo and is pinned in but the car will not start with the wire pins for the MAF are connected, unplug one or the other (MAF or pins for AFC) and car will run fine. ( i have not confirmed this issue, just what i am told) <p/>CONDITION: only when one or the other is connected to the harness.<p/>THOUGHTS: AFC has failed or a wiring fault. i have not confirmed the wiring is correct (wiring guide tomorrow to confirm the pins are correct)<p/><br/>im sorry, im horrible at wording things please excuse my idiotic terms or wordings. i have all tools for diag. and will be going for voltage testing tomorrow. i have a feeling it is a wiring issue.<p/>id like some help/advise on any other possibilities to address and find a solution to my issues. thanks in advanced and if you need any more info id be happy to test and report back. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>BoostedSR240sx</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-09-09T21:48:23-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>AutoCAD or Solidworks drawings</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=446645</link> 
  <description>does anybody have any 240sx 1989 to 1993 parts or the entire body drawn up on AutoCAD or Solidworks, if yes i would appreciate if you could send it to michael.mccarthy@live.ca. I am working on a Rapid prototype project and i would need as many drawings as possible. Thanks</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ does anybody have any 240sx 1989 to 1993 parts or the entire body drawn up on AutoCAD or Solidworks, if yes i would appreciate if you could send it to michael.mccarthy@live.ca. I am working on a Rapid prototype project and i would need as many drawings as possible. Thanks ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>ballin240sx</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-08-28T06:32:37-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Converting a FWD car to RWD</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=445610</link> 
  <description>I'm sick of people wanting thousands of dollars for thier fun-to-drive RWD cars, its getting harder to find them for cheap.  There are lots of small, lightweight, FWD hoopties out there, though.  I want something thats really inexpensive, runs like a bastard, is RWD, crude, brutally functional, and fun as hell to drive, is that too much to ask  But on to the point, the main hurdles here, (as far as I know), would be the tranny tunnel, steering rack clearence, rear suspension, firewall clearence, and mouting the engine to the subframe.  The rear suspension could even be a live axle with leaf springs for all I care, as a matter of fact, I think that would be ideal in my case.  No big v8 engines, preferably a nice cheap hopped-up 4cyl or v6 with carburettor, no ECU's!  Mounting the leaf springs to the unit-body could be accomplished with c-channel or box shaped angle iron.</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I'm sick of people wanting thousands of dollars for thier fun-to-drive RWD cars, its getting harder to find them for cheap.  There are lots of small, lightweight, FWD hoopties out there, though.  I want something thats really inexpensive, runs like a bastard, is RWD, crude, brutally functional, and fun as hell to drive, is that too much to ask?  But on to the point, the main hurdles here, (as far as I know), would be the tranny tunnel, steering rack clearence, rear suspension, firewall clearence, and mouting the engine to the subframe.  The rear suspension could even be a live axle with leaf springs for all I care, as a matter of fact, I think that would be ideal in my case.  No big v8 engines, preferably a nice cheap hopped-up 4cyl or v6 with carburettor, no ECU's!  Mounting the leaf springs to the unit-body could be accomplished with c-channel or box shaped angle iron. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>seang</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-08T17:35:39-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>12</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Defeating a MAF sensor</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=445582</link> 
  <description>Hello, I have been contemplating carbing a ka24e.  I would build my own intake manifold for a Holley 350 2bbl, so that part is taken care of.  On to the next snag, the MAF.  Before you LOL and scold me, take a look at this thread, http://forums.nicoclub.com/zer...rsion.  My conclusion to this is the MAF sensor controls the fuel injectors but not the ignition.  The ignition just listens to the knock sensor and keeps right on going, at least in this case.  My truck is a 97 HB with ka24e, all stock.  If I were to go ahead and make my manifold, could I expect the ignition to act the same way it did for frankiepintado</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ Hello, I have been contemplating carbing a ka24e.  I would build my own intake manifold for a Holley 350 2bbl, so that part is taken care of.  On to the next snag, the MAF.  Before you LOL and scold me, take a look at this thread, <A HREF="http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/435279-z24i-efi-tbi-to-weber-carburetor-conversion" TARGET="_blank">http://forums.nicoclub.com/zer...rsion</A>.  My conclusion to this is the MAF sensor controls the fuel injectors but not the ignition.  The ignition just listens to the knock sensor and keeps right on going, at least in this case.  My truck is a 97 HB with ka24e, all stock.  If I were to go ahead and make my manifold, could I expect the ignition to act the same way it did for frankiepintado? ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>seang</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-08-23T14:26:20-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>240z swap</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=443479</link> 
  <description>i have a 73 240z and am wanting to do a swap but dont know which way to go with it. i've thought about doing a sr, rb, or possibly the titan motor. i've heard alot of good and bad things about them all. i'm kinda stuck so i thought i'd ask someone who's good with this stuff.thanks alot</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ i have a 73 240z and am wanting to do a swap but dont know which way to go with it. i've thought about doing a sr, rb, or possibly the titan motor. i've heard alot of good and bad things about them all. i'm kinda stuck so i thought i'd ask someone who's good with this stuff.<br/>thanks alot ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>nics fairlady</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-16T17:04:20-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Nothing to do with cars but</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=442660</link> 
  <description>maybe useful to some engineers.Just a useful fact I gleened from my study of futire energy sources:"This is because of something called the geothermal gradient. This is one of the last, almost untapped, sources of energy that we have. While it varies around the world, the numbers where I come from are these: At 500 ft below the ground the rock temperature is 60 degrees F. For every 60 ft you go further down, the rock temperature goes up a degree. So that if you are 1100 ft down, then the temperature is 1100 - 500 = 600 (extra depth)/60 = 10 extra degrees + 60 = 70 degrees F. And at 8,000 ft (a deep gold mine) it will be ((8000-500)/60) +60 = 185 degrees--which is why they refrigerate the air in mines that go that deep."</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ maybe useful to some engineers.<br/>Just a useful fact I gleened from my study of futire energy sources:<p/>"This is because of something called the geothermal gradient. This is one of the last, almost untapped, sources of energy that we have. While it varies around the world, the numbers where I come from are these: At 500 ft below the ground the rock temperature is 60 degrees F. For every 60 ft you go further down, the rock temperature goes up a degree. So that if you are 1100 ft down, then the temperature is 1100 - 500 = 600 (extra depth)/60 = 10 extra degrees + 60 = 70 degrees F. And at 8,000 ft (a deep gold mine) it will be ((8000-500)/60) +60 = 185 degrees--which is why they refrigerate the air in mines that go that deep." ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>Q45tech</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-08-10T22:57:40-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Aluminium connecting rods</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=442602</link> 
  <description>They are lighter than steel or iron, and more affordable than titanium.  They are used in Top Fuel dragsters.  However, I'm not sure of the service life of such a part as this.  They might be somewhat less practical, and are more sensitive to temperature than steel or iron.  Here are a few links,http://www.bmeltd.com/rods.htmhttp://rrconnectingrods.com/st....htmlhttp://www.google.com/searchh...f&amp;oq=I noticed some Chromoly ones, too.  They were more expensive than the ones made from Aluminium.</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ They are lighter than steel or iron, and more affordable than titanium.  They are used in Top Fuel dragsters.  However, I'm not sure of the service life of such a part as this.  They might be somewhat less practical, and are more sensitive to temperature than steel or iron.  Here are a few links,<p/><A HREF="http://www.bmeltd.com/rods.htm" TARGET="_blank">http://www.bmeltd.com/rods.htm</A><p/><A HREF="http://rrconnectingrods.com/store/sport-compact-cylinder-billet-aluminum-rods-p-58.html" TARGET="_blank">http://rrconnectingrods.com/st....html</A><p/><A HREF="http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&amp;q=aluminium+connecting+rods&amp;btnG=Google+Search&amp;aq=f&amp;oq=" TARGET="_blank">http://www.google.com/search?h...f&amp;oq=</A><p/>I noticed some Chromoly ones, too.  They were more expensive than the ones made from Aluminium.<p/> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>seang</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-12T11:44:04-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>11</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>unknown trans grind</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=442337</link> 
  <description>I got a 96 s14, sr20de 5spd. ONLY after start up i get a rattle-ish grinding from the mission. it will only do it in 1 or R. I'll put it in gear and about 1/4 off the clutch it'll start, it'll grind anywhere between 1-10mph then goes away, unless i stay constant under 10. when i first start it's somewhat obnoxious but as i increase speed it smooths then stops. It does this warm and cold, but after couple hours cruisin, stop, and startup again, it seems a bit worse. There was also one time i put it on stands, put it in first and let it go, it did the same grinding but the whole time in 1st till i shifted. then i stopped, put it back in first still runnin, no grind i'm stumped, as is everyone else i've asked.I bought it in march and it was grindin when i bought it, had it drained and filled about 2 months later,  got a new clutch and release bearing last week. I'd like to have a possible suspect before droppin it to fix(can't afford down time).-ALSO, there's times i'll push half throttle in low gears and when it would normally break loose, it feels like somethins slippin a bit. feels just like when a clutch is goin, but it did it today and like i said, new clutch. I didn't notice this till last month.</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I got a 96 s14, sr20de 5spd. <B><I><U>ONLY</U></I></B> after start up i get a rattle-ish grinding from the mission. it will only do it in 1 or R. I'll put it in gear and about 1/4 off the clutch it'll start, it'll grind anywhere between 1-10mph then goes away, unless i stay constant under 10. when i first start it's somewhat obnoxious but as i increase speed it smooths then stops. It does this warm and cold, but after couple hours cruisin, stop, and startup again, it seems a bit worse. There was also one time i put it on stands, put it in first and let it go, it did the same grinding but the whole time in 1st till i shifted. then i stopped, put it back in first still runnin, no grind??? i'm stumped, as is everyone else i've asked.<br/>I bought it in march and it was grindin when i bought it, had it drained and filled about 2 months later,  got a new clutch and release bearing last week. <br/>I'd like to have a possible suspect before droppin it to fix(can't afford down time).<br/>-ALSO, there's times i'll push half throttle in low gears and when it would normally break loose, it feels like somethins slippin a bit. feels just like when a clutch is goin, but it did it today and like i said, new clutch. I didn't notice this till last month. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>c72c</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-08-08T18:23:37-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>just getting started</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=440551</link> 
  <description>hey im new to the site and i have tons of questions for you that knows a lot about 240s. i just got a rb20 swap, and i was wondering if it to hard, i have buddy's that has done swaps b4 but all on Hondas. also i have been reading around the it would be a good idea to get new cams and do some head work i dont know so could some one help </description> 
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  <![CDATA[ hey im new to the site and i have tons of questions for you that knows a lot about 240s. i just got a rb20 swap, and i was wondering if it to hard, i have buddy's that has done swaps b4 but all on Hondas. also i have been reading around the it would be a good idea to get new cams and do some head work? i dont know so could some one help?  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>Sullivan34*</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-07-31T19:56:01-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Dry Sump Conversion</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=437576</link> 
  <description>Hello, after seeing some serious projects like Yellowcar's Datsun 510, (just one example), I have become intrigued by dry sump oil systems.  The pan alone would cost around 650 dollars US.  I would like some serious input on this, is it really just too much overkill
Modified by seang at 9:31 PM 7/15/2009</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ Hello, after seeing some serious projects like Yellowcar's Datsun 510, (just one example), I have become intrigued by dry sump oil systems.  The pan alone would cost around 650 dollars US.  I would like some serious input on this, is it really just too much overkill?<BR/><BR/>
<i>Modified by seang at 9:31 PM 7/15/2009</i> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>seang</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-03T07:09:27-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>10</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Zero lift braced front suspension for d21</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=435698</link> 
  <description>Hello, I have been tossing around this idea for a few hours now, and it would definitely afford less weight, and zero lift capabilities through the removal of the sway bar, bump stops, and torsion bars.  Welding in a brace made of plate steel between the lower a arm and bump stop boss, therefore freezing the lower a-arm in its place.  The idea here is for autocrossing.  The tires would take the shocks, as would your kidneys, but what enthusiast wouldn't mind that in the name of 3 seconds off a lap time.  IDK, this is a serious idea for me.  Its brutally effective, and simple in theory.  I would expect some harshness on bumpy road surfaces, but thats a given.  Also, I belive it would still be possible to remove and change the lower ball joint if neccessary if there is still enough room to swing the upper conrol arm upwards a bit.  Just imagine sailing over some railroad tracks at speed with no front end swash.  What do you think Modified by seang at 10:22 AM 7/7/2009Modified by seang at 10:57 AM 7/7/2009
Modified by seang at 11:01 AM 7/7/2009</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ Hello, I have been tossing around this idea for a few hours now, and it would definitely afford less weight, and zero lift capabilities through the removal of the sway bar, bump stops, and torsion bars.  Welding in a brace made of plate steel between the lower a arm and bump stop boss, therefore freezing the lower a-arm in its place.  The idea here is for autocrossing.  The tires would take the shocks, as would your kidneys, but what enthusiast wouldn't mind that in the name of 3 seconds off a lap time.  IDK, this is a serious idea for me.  Its brutally effective, and simple in theory.  I would expect some harshness on bumpy road surfaces, but thats a given.  Also, I belive it would still be possible to remove and change the lower ball joint if neccessary if there is still enough room to swing the upper conrol arm upwards a bit.  Just imagine sailing over some railroad tracks at speed with no front end swash.  What do you think? <p/><br/><i>Modified by seang at 10:22 AM 7/7/2009</i><p/><br/><i>Modified by seang at 10:57 AM 7/7/2009</i><BR/><BR/>
<i>Modified by seang at 11:01 AM 7/7/2009</i> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>seang</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-08-09T05:25:23-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>14</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Mech.Elec. guages</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=433693</link> 
  <description>With so many gauges on the market im lost on which to get.  I have used autometers electric ones and had one oil psi sending unit fail.  Besides that they seemed to do great.  Also i have used sunpros mech. oil gauge and it gave me no problems what so ever.What do you guys think for the money is the way to go.  I want high quality accurate as POSSIBLE gauges could care less about looks.  Is mech. or electrical the way to go for accuracy and response time.  Maybe some mounting recomendations they are for my rb20det.  Oil psi.,coolant temp.,and boost.  then eventually an egt. and wideband..</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ With so many gauges on the market im lost on which to get.  I have used autometers electric ones and had one oil psi sending unit fail.  Besides that they seemed to do great.  Also i have used sunpros mech. oil gauge and it gave me no problems what so ever.<p/>What do you guys think for the money is the way to go.  I want high quality accurate as POSSIBLE gauges could care less about looks.  Is mech. or electrical the way to go for accuracy and response time.  Maybe some mounting recomendations they are for my rb20det.  Oil psi.,coolant temp.,and boost.  then eventually an egt. and wideband.. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>lexrob</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-07-20T00:42:37-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>4</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>ignition cut rev limiters</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=433482</link> 
  <description>has anyone used one do they jack up your engine from what i understand the stock rev limiters usually cut fuel resulting in your car running more lean which can result in detonation therefore are bad for your car. but ignition cuts out spark but wouldnt that mean you have unburned fuel releasing into your exhaust and if you're turbo wouldnt that mean you are sucking unburned fuel into your turbo and isnt that also bad i'm looking into a bee*R unit and i want to know if it will jack my engine up to get one</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ has anyone used one? do they jack up your engine? from what i understand the stock rev limiters usually cut fuel resulting in your car running more lean which can result in detonation therefore are bad for your car. but ignition cuts out spark but wouldnt that mean you have unburned fuel releasing into your exhaust and if you're turbo wouldnt that mean you are sucking unburned fuel into your turbo and isnt that also bad? i'm looking into a bee*R unit and i want to know if it will jack my engine up to get one? ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>phanatikz32</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-07-09T13:16:07-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Hydrolocked!</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=433261</link> 
  <description>is it possible to save a hydrolocked engine someone please help asap! im going to get a new engine saturday for 140 but someone has a hydrolocked engine that they are willing to give me for free would it be cheaper to buy the engine saturday with the full swap or just get the hydrolocked engine (doing a swap from ka24e to a ka24de)   </description> 
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  <![CDATA[ is it possible to save a hydrolocked engine? someone please help asap! im going to get a new engine saturday for 140 but someone has a hydrolocked engine that they are willing to give me for free would it be cheaper to buy the engine saturday with the full swap or just get the hydrolocked engine? (doing a swap from ka24e to a ka24de)  <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/bash.gif" BORDER="0"/>  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>240user89</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-07-02T23:25:24-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>all auto windows on a frontier</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=432375</link> 
  <description>my 03 g had all auto down window controls does anyone know what equipt i would need to get to make this possible ant where do i get a schematic to do such a thing,i would also like to try to install auto on/ off headlights .any help would be appreciated  </description> 
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  <![CDATA[ my 03 g had all auto down window controls does anyone know what equipt i would need to get to make this possible ant where do i get a schematic to do such a thing,i would also like to try to install auto on/ off headlights .any help would be appreciated <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/bash.gif" BORDER="0"/>  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>sal7506</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-06-19T19:48:12-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>How do tie rod end spacers increase steering angle suspension gurus needed!</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=429350</link> 
  <description> An obvious advantage of tie rod end spacers is to decrease ball joint wear on lowered cars, but i am confused about theory on how these spacers actually increase steering angle and reduce bump steer. After studying multiple suspension diagrams I am somewhat convinced that tie rod end spacers actually have a negative impact on steering geometry; increasing bump steer and doing nothing what so ever for steering angle. Someone please enlighten me.</description> 
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  <![CDATA[  An obvious advantage of tie rod end spacers is to decrease ball joint wear on lowered cars, but i am confused about theory on how these spacers actually increase steering angle and reduce bump steer. After studying multiple suspension diagrams I am somewhat convinced that tie rod end spacers actually have a negative impact on steering geometry; increasing bump steer and doing nothing what so ever for steering angle. Someone please enlighten me.<p/> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>redsx13</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-09T11:43:10-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>8</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>VG30DE Model Year Plenum Differences</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=427604</link> 
  <description>Anyone know the differences in plenums for the early versus the later year J30sThe TPS looks different and the PCV valve locations look different too. Is the later years plenum superior in any way, such as gas mileage and how difficult would it be to fit a later years plenum to a '93 engine without modifying too many connections; hose, harness or otherwise</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ Anyone know the differences in plenums for the early versus the later year J30s?<p/>The TPS looks different and the PCV valve locations look different too. Is the later years plenum superior in any way, such as gas mileage and how difficult would it be to fit a later years plenum to a '93 engine without modifying too many connections; hose, harness or otherwise? ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>GerryO</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-05-28T19:56:59-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>VG30DETT Sensors Pinout &amp; Voltage Ref</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=426482</link> 
  <description>I've got a customer who has a VG30DETT which I will be wiring up to a PerfectPower XMS ecu and I was curious if anyone knows what the stock TPS voltage reference is as well as what the pinout (Power, Ground, Signal) is and what that pinout is in physical relation to on the TPS (not sure if the factory tps has a mark for pin1 or labeled pin orientation).I am also curious about the Inlet Air Temp &amp; Coolant Temp sensors, what their pinouts are and if anyone knows the resistance to temperature table on these looks like, and whether they're negative temperature coefficient or positive temperature coefficient (although I could figure that out fairly easily).  Are these 5V referenceHeck, while I'm here I'll ask what the pinout on the VG30DETT CAS is as well, but I have a few more things to research prior to knowing how well the XMS is going to react to the square wave signal out of that without a voltage divider or something else.  I believe these are .25V reference instead of 5V...I'm guessing there is a shared ground, shared power and then two separate signal outputs (Cam pulse and 180 count crank pulse).  I do need to get a different wheel for this, and I'm trying at triggerwheels.com as well as through autronic, but if anyone here knows of another manufacturer for replacement wheels (fixed count - no missing window crank and single window cam), I would also appreciate that information.I know I'm asking a lot and I truly appreciate your help on this, it's my first job for a real customer and I'm fairly unfamiliar with the Nissan sensory systems as a whole.Thanks for your time,Jason</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I've got a customer who has a VG30DETT which I will be wiring up to a PerfectPower XMS ecu and I was curious if anyone knows what the stock TPS voltage reference is as well as what the pinout (Power, Ground, Signal) is and what that pinout is in physical relation to on the TPS (not sure if the factory tps has a mark for pin1 or labeled pin orientation).<p/>I am also curious about the Inlet Air Temp &amp; Coolant Temp sensors, what their pinouts are and if anyone knows the resistance to temperature table on these looks like, and whether they're negative temperature coefficient or positive temperature coefficient (although I could figure that out fairly easily).  Are these 5V reference?<p/>Heck, while I'm here I'll ask what the pinout on the VG30DETT CAS is as well, but I have a few more things to research prior to knowing how well the XMS is going to react to the square wave signal out of that without a voltage divider or something else.  I believe these are .25V reference instead of 5V...I'm guessing there is a shared ground, shared power and then two separate signal outputs (Cam pulse and 180 count crank pulse).  I do need to get a different wheel for this, and I'm trying at triggerwheels.com as well as through autronic, but if anyone here knows of another manufacturer for replacement wheels (fixed count - no missing window crank and single window cam), I would also appreciate that information.<p/>I know I'm asking a lot and I truly appreciate your help on this, it's my first job for a real customer and I'm fairly unfamiliar with the Nissan sensory systems as a whole.<p/>Thanks for your time,<p/>Jason<p/> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>griffithcontrols</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-07-06T21:27:23-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>4</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>96 engine harness, into 97 240sx</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=426036</link> 
  <description>I recently did a 5 speed swap, and the motor turns but wont start. It sounds like the fuel pump is not coming on. I used a 96- 5 speed engine fuse box, and engine harness, and 97 lower trans harness. The interior harness is original 97 auto, and has the plug for the auto trans control device that should be obsolite. My question is, are the 96 and 97 harness's compatable And if I use the 5 speed harness up front, will it work with the auto interior harness Thanks for reading.</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I recently did a 5 speed swap, and the motor turns but wont start. It sounds like the fuel pump is not coming on. I used a 96- 5 speed engine fuse box, and engine harness, and 97 lower trans harness. The interior harness is original 97 auto, and has the plug for the auto trans control device that should be obsolite. My question is, are the 96 and 97 harness's compatable? And if I use the 5 speed harness up front, will it work with the auto interior harness? Thanks for reading. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>driftneil</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-05-21T12:00:09-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Strait pipe with stock exhaust question</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=425930</link> 
  <description>I got a friend. Well hes has been telling me that he wants to put a strait pipe on a stock exhaust. He like the way it looks stock but would like to sound a little meaner. Well i tell him that he cant because both ends of the strait pipe are 3' and it wont fit. Am i right im not really sure. He said u can do it. Can anyone help me</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I got a friend. Well hes has been telling me that he wants to put a strait pipe on a stock exhaust. He like the way it looks stock but would like to sound a little meaner. Well i tell him that he cant because both ends of the strait pipe are 3' and it wont fit. Am i right im not really sure. He said u can do it. Can anyone help me ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>240sx_in_209</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-07-21T17:37:27-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>5</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>GA16DE NVCS</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=424779</link> 
  <description>Sorry if this question has been asked before but I have searched but could not find any info on it. I have read on a forum about being able to install the NVCS system on an engine that was not equiped with it. Has it been ever been done before If so What prosedures where used and where could I find some info on it. Thanks in advance.</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ Sorry if this question has been asked before but I have searched but could not find any info on it. I have read on a forum about being able to install the NVCS system on an engine that was not equiped with it. Has it been ever been done before? If so What prosedures where used and where could I find some info on it. Thanks in advance. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>tegls1</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-05-20T18:48:40-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>9</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>How does ECU decide how much air is needed during idle</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=422152</link> 
  <description>re 92 s13In theory, ecu ignores o2 sensor readings so how does it decide on a good idle. My ACC is definitely working but it insists on being 50 percent open during idle which shoots my idle to 1000 rpm. If I unplug the acc, the idle is around 700 but the ecu cries for air by sending a message to acc to open up 80 percent. The ACC goes down to about 30 percent when I go into open loop. It stays at 50 percent open even when I go into timing mode. I have 4 computers and they all do this. I'm thinking I'm rich during idle but curious how the ecu determines this.       </description> 
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  <![CDATA[ re 92 s13<p/><br/>In theory, ecu ignores o2 sensor readings so how does it decide on a good idle. My ACC is definitely working but it insists on being 50 percent open during idle which shoots my idle to 1000 rpm. If I unplug the acc, the idle is around 700 but the ecu cries for air by sending a message to acc to open up 80 percent. The ACC goes down to about 30 percent when I go into open loop. It stays at 50 percent open even when I go into timing mode. I have 4 computers and they all do this. I'm thinking I'm rich during idle but curious how the ecu determines this. <br/>      <br/> ]]> 
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  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>freeonboard</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-05-20T09:18:11-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>6</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Dump pipe design on KA24DE causing boost spike</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=418382</link> 
  <description>Hello all,I had a dump pipe made today for my wastegate, as well as had my new exhaust put on.  My car was running fine today (8psi, just on the spring).  After I left the shop with the dump pipe, I'm getting boost spike up to 15 psi.  I've talked to some people and they don't think the dump pipe is the issue.Any thoughts  The dump pipe has a 90degree bend on it to clear the steering shaft and dump under the chassis.</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ Hello all,<p/>I had a dump pipe made today for my wastegate, as well as had my new exhaust put on.  My car was running fine today (8psi, just on the spring).  After I left the shop with the dump pipe, I'm getting boost spike up to 15 psi.  I've talked to some people and they don't think the dump pipe is the issue.<p/>Any thoughts?  The dump pipe has a 90degree bend on it to clear the steering shaft and dump under the chassis. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>MTX450</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-04-17T08:15:33-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Garrett GT series turbo coolant systems</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=417873</link> 
  <description>I'm about to try to run a closed loop set up on my GT3071R with a 12v electric pump, an oil cooler exchange, a small reservoir with a 1.3 bar cap and -10AN lines. Has anyone else done anything like this Is anyone actually running coolant on their GT's or does everyone just plug them off (this seems to be the only things on the internet discusses about coolant and these turbos) I'd like to see pics of other people set up even if its bleeding off the engine coolant system just for routing ideas and inspiration.-Shane</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I'm about to try to run a closed loop set up on my GT3071R with a 12v electric pump, an oil cooler exchange, a small reservoir with a 1.3 bar cap and -10AN lines. Has anyone else done anything like this? Is anyone actually running coolant on their GT's? or does everyone just plug them off? (this seems to be the only things on the internet discusses about coolant and these turbos) I'd like to see pics of other people set up even if its bleeding off the engine coolant system just for routing ideas and inspiration.<p/>-Shane ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>holemilk00</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-09T12:04:44-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>sound deadening cube material.</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=416091</link> 
  <description>Hi guys, I was actually just wondering about the materials inside hi performance exhausts. I always hear and see these "active composite/ sound deadening" cubes. I'm not questioning whether or not they work, because I'm sure they do, but exactly what are these cubes made of </description> 
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  <![CDATA[ Hi guys, I was actually just wondering about the materials inside hi performance exhausts. I always hear and see these "active composite/ sound deadening" cubes. I'm not questioning whether or not they work, because I'm sure they do, but exactly what are these cubes made of?  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>180sx Dreams</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-04-13T17:33:23-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Remote Fuel-cutoff and Power Locks</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=415178</link> 
  <description>So I just got my next addition to the 240 in the mail today, a rolling code UHF transmitter and receiver. The receiver has 4 relays which can be set to latching or momentary, and the chip has a reset pin as well, which I might have a use for (explained later). The transmitter is just a key fob like any other remote entry.What I want to do is hide the receiver somewhere and run it as a sort of anti-theft device. I was thinking something along the lines of having the normally open contacts of a relay in series with the wire from the ecu to fuel pump relay. This way, the car won't start until I latch the relay (ie. press the corresponding button on the remote). Also, I want to hook it up so that when the ignition voltage disappears (ie. the key is turned to the off position) the relay resets, and opens the connection. This part I can do, but I'm open to suggestions on how to implement this. Mainly a good place to hide the receiver, it has to be dry (obviously) but also get good reception for max range. Preferably closer to the ecu. Is there another way to have good theft prevention without the possibility of having my fuel cut off mid boosting Like if my hand hit the key fob by accident I could make it so the starter is the component that is controlled by the relay, but then a thief could technically just roll start my car and be off...The second part is I want to use a couple relays for the power lock functions. Anyone know where the best place to tap into the sense wires for the lock/unlock signalsThirdly, I want a relay to control the horn. Just so I can scare people from a distance  .Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I can post pics too if people want some.-ChrisEDIT: Here's the board I picked up, too lazy to build one myself  http://www.electronickits.com/...4.htm</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ So I just got my next addition to the 240 in the mail today, a rolling code UHF transmitter and receiver. The receiver has 4 relays which can be set to latching or momentary, and the chip has a reset pin as well, which I might have a use for (explained later). The transmitter is just a key fob like any other remote entry.<p/>What I want to do is hide the receiver somewhere and run it as a sort of anti-theft device. I was thinking something along the lines of having the normally open contacts of a relay in series with the wire from the ecu to fuel pump relay. This way, the car won't start until I latch the relay (ie. press the corresponding button on the remote). Also, I want to hook it up so that when the ignition voltage disappears (ie. the key is turned to the off position) the relay resets, and opens the connection. This part I can do, but I'm open to suggestions on how to implement this. Mainly a good place to hide the receiver, it has to be dry (obviously) but also get good reception for max range. Preferably closer to the ecu. <p/>Is there another way to have good theft prevention without the possibility of having my fuel cut off mid boosting? Like if my hand hit the key fob by accident? I could make it so the starter is the component that is controlled by the relay, but then a thief could technically just roll start my car and be off...<p/>The second part is I want to use a couple relays for the power lock functions. Anyone know where the best place to tap into the sense wires for the lock/unlock signals?<p/>Thirdly, I want a relay to control the horn. Just so I can scare people from a distance  <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif" BORDER="0"/>.<p/>Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I can post pics too if people want some.<p/>-Chris<p/>EDIT: Here's the board I picked up, too lazy to build one myself <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif" BORDER="0"/> <A HREF="http://www.electronickits.com/remote_control/rf4.htm" TARGET="_blank">http://www.electronickits.com/...4.htm</A> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>iceman.chris</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-07-18T23:27:37-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>4 coils vs 1 coil w/distributor on a ka24de - need real engineering info</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=413896</link> 
  <description>I'm trying to find some real info about this, I've posted this in the 1st gen forum and the ka24de forum and people look but say nothing. So I'm trying to find someone with good knowledge about thing like this or theory.Now I have seen this done before but never seen how. I'm asking everyone out there how this is done. Not the building part but the wiring part and the theory. I've already boneyarded 4 more coils so I have one extra in case ones bad.Now can this be done just by spliting the original 2 coil wirers to the other threeOr is there more to doPlease if you have done this swap let me know so I can ask you to email some pic's of the swap, It would help me to understand what I'm reading</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I'm trying to find some real info about this, I've posted this in the 1st gen forum and the ka24de forum and people look but say nothing. So I'm trying to find someone with good knowledge about thing like this or theory.<p/>Now I have seen this done before but never seen how. I'm asking everyone out there how this is done. Not the building part but the wiring part and the theory. I've already boneyarded 4 more coils so I have one extra in case ones bad.<p/>Now can this be done just by spliting the original 2 coil wirers to the other three?<p/>Or is there more to do?<p/>Please if you have done this swap let me know so I can ask you to email some pic's of the swap, It would help me to understand what I'm reading<p/> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>DeVilleL13</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-08-26T20:48:41-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>13</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>RANDOM/MULTIPLE MISFIRE, KNOCK SENSOR #1+#2 </title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=412304</link> 
  <description>I have had two different mechanics tell me two different things on what is going on with my Q. First one said to change spark plugs again from Bosch to NGK before he would do anything. So I changed plugs and it did not make a difference. Then he tells me that he would recommend changing a coil pack that I just replaced days ago along with the plugs because it was not a brand name he recommended. I would not do that so I went to another mechanic. After some trouble shooting he said that everything points to the left bank knock sensor and that he would recommend changing both while he was at it. But when I picked up my car from him (keep in mind he done nothing to the car but hook it up to his machine) it ran just fine. So about 1-1 1/2 miles down the road it starts in, the missing, jumping then blinking service engine soon light for a moment then steady. This car does not have just a little miss it is very sick, no power, jerky and running very rich. Can the knock sensors be causing the random multiple misfire Also can someone tell me how to check my coils with a voltmeter to see if they are bad or not  Sorry for the ignorance, I am used to working on my '72 Nova.  Thanks for any help that you can give.</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I have had two different mechanics tell me two different things on what is going on with my Q. First one said to change spark plugs again from Bosch to NGK before he would do anything. So I changed plugs and it did not make a difference. Then he tells me that he would recommend changing a coil pack that I just replaced days ago along with the plugs because it was not a brand name he recommended. I would not do that so I went to another mechanic. After some trouble shooting he said that everything points to the left bank knock sensor and that he would recommend changing both while he was at it. But when I picked up my car from him (keep in mind he done nothing to the car but hook it up to his machine) it ran just fine. So about 1-1 1/2 miles down the road it starts in, the missing, jumping then blinking service engine soon light for a moment then steady. This car does not have just a little miss it is very sick, no power, jerky and running very rich. Can the knock sensors be causing the random multiple misfire? Also can someone tell me how to check my coils with a voltmeter to see if they are bad or not??  Sorry for the ignorance, I am used to working on my '72 Nova.  Thanks for any help that you can give.<br/> ]]> 
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  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>andrewsl</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-03-25T11:01:48-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>s13 Swap sr20det or RB25det</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=410421</link> 
  <description>Aight so im swapping the ka out of a 240sx but im not sure if I want to go with a sr20det or RB250det.  Everybody is telling me different things and I just want to hear it from some really knowledgeable people.  I figured this would be the best place to ask.  Thanks for helppin!  </description> 
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  <![CDATA[ Aight so im swapping the ka out of a 240sx but im not sure if I want to go with a sr20det or RB250det.  Everybody is telling me different things and I just want to hear it from some really knowledgeable people.  I figured this would be the best place to ask.  Thanks for helppin! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/Noah/dblthumb2.gif" BORDER="0"/>  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>iskate67</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-07-09T12:56:18-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>casting numbers on the ka24de head</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=405508</link> 
  <description>just trying to figure out the different casting numbers i had a 53f head but its hammered. i bought a 70f head to replace it. was the 53f off the truck ka is a 70f off a s13 the 53f came off my 92 coupe. the most noticeable difference is the extra valve cover bolt hole back center of the head. any info will help</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ just trying to figure out the different casting numbers? i had a 53f head but its hammered. i bought a 70f head to replace it. was the 53f off the truck ka? is a 70f off a s13? the 53f came off my 92 coupe. the most noticeable difference is the extra valve cover bolt hole back center of the head. any info will help ]]> 
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  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>kdiggidy</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-02-22T15:45:25-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Are you good with airflow design</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=403269</link> 
  <description>I'm sick of trying to decide which intake is best so...I'm trying to determine the best design for a filter element and  its associated duct work. My first plan was to reduce pressure(er...vacuum) drop through the filter by having an over sized element and pipes. Maybe even a 2:1 double filter style setup. But i keep getting this feeling that velocity is another factor i need to look at  more. if i increase the duct size ill lose velocity, but i can hear my intake whistling as it sucks in air so...there has to be a lot of extra static pressure enlarging the duct/filter size would reduce the amount of engine vacuum wasted trying to pull air through the filter right this should improve-off-the-line or hammer drop performance. I'm fairly certain i want as little restriction as possible. Question is someone engineered the stock intake the way it is now for a reason. Even most aftermarket intakes stick to the same general guidelines. does anybody have any theories or thoughts about what a change in velocity might affect for example i'm almost positive the mass air flow sensor would still read the same amount of air coming in.Thanks in advance!EDIT: Crap! this is definitely an oldish topic   my bad...well for anybody interested Sentient started this thread back in the day... http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/294142 
Modified by Anthonysflying at 3:26 PM 2/12/2009</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I'm sick of trying to decide which intake is best so...<p/>I'm trying to determine the best design for a filter element and  its associated duct work. My first plan was to reduce pressure(er...vacuum) drop through the filter by having an over sized element and pipes. Maybe even a 2:1 double filter style setup. But i keep getting this feeling that velocity is another factor i need to look at  more. if i increase the duct size ill lose velocity, but i can hear my intake whistling as it sucks in air so...there has to be a lot of extra static pressure? enlarging the duct/filter size would reduce the amount of engine vacuum wasted trying to pull air through the filter right? this should improve-off-the-line or hammer drop performance. I'm fairly certain i want as little restriction as possible. <p/>Question is someone engineered the stock intake the way it is now for a reason. Even most aftermarket intakes stick to the same general guidelines. does anybody have any theories or thoughts about what a change in velocity might affect? for example i'm almost positive the mass air flow sensor would still read the same amount of air coming in.<p/>Thanks in advance!<p/>EDIT: Crap! this is definitely an oldish topic  <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/bash.gif" BORDER="0"/> my bad...<br/>well for anybody interested Sentient started this thread back in the day...<br/> <A HREF="http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/294142" TARGET="_blank">http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/294142</A> <BR/><BR/>
<i>Modified by Anthonysflying at 3:26 PM 2/12/2009</i> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>Anthonysflying</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-02-15T20:35:47-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>4</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>nissan vh41de transmission conversion</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=402698</link> 
  <description>Hi everyone.Ive got a  nissan cedric thats getting a jap spec vh41de put into it.i'll be running an aftermarket engine computer but would like to use the factory trans computer.I have been told that the trans computer uses sensors from tha a.b.s and traction control to time the shifts etc etc.i put another vh41 into a 300zx a few years back and it went well but i guess it used the 300zx a.b.s etc to get its infomation.Anyway what i want to know is can i use the factory trans computer without the a.b.s etc (because the cedric is 1978 it doesnt hae any of this nonsense) and if i cant what are my other optionsAny help would be greatly appreciated.Thanks,John</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ Hi everyone.Ive got a  nissan cedric thats getting a jap spec vh41de put into it.i'll be running an aftermarket engine computer but would like to use the factory trans computer.I have been told that the trans computer uses sensors from tha a.b.s and traction control to time the shifts etc etc.i put another vh41 into a 300zx a few years back and it went well but i guess it used the 300zx a.b.s etc to get its infomation.<br/>Anyway what i want to know is can i use the factory trans computer without the a.b.s etc (because the cedric is 1978 it doesnt hae any of this nonsense) and if i cant what are my other options?<br/>Any help would be greatly appreciated.<p/>Thanks,John ]]> 
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  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>skidmrx</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-02-10T02:11:57-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Safety Seminar</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=401263</link> 
  <description>Our high school is going to be competing, individually, in the New York Auto Show Safety Seminar. Colleges from around the nation will be in this seminiar, and our school has been asked to come up with ideas to improve automotive safety. The cash prize for first place is $1000, and I'm hoping to aquire that with some ideas from NICO, as well as my own. What can be done to improve automotive safety, which is new, and hasnt already been thought of I was starting to think of little nozzles fitted around the engine bay that spray flame-retardent foam when activated from high heat. Any suggestions</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ Our high school is going to be competing, individually, in the New York Auto Show Safety Seminar. Colleges from around the nation will be in this seminiar, and our school has been asked to come up with ideas to improve automotive safety. The cash prize for first place is $1000, and I'm hoping to aquire that with some ideas from NICO, as well as my own. What can be done to improve automotive safety, which is new, and hasnt already been thought of? I was starting to think of little nozzles fitted around the engine bay that spray flame-retardent foam when activated from high heat. Any suggestions? ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>naladude911</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-02-27T17:35:44-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>17</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Locking Differential v. Non-Locking</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=399324</link> 
  <description>I own an AE 5spd and it has been hell trying to find transmission parts for decent prices where I am.... I researched and saw that this is the only year that has the "locking differential" in both the 5spd and automatic, and that is the problem. What are the benefits Can I swap to a non-locking if I wanted to Can I swap for the '02-'03 6spdSHIFT_none  </description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I own an AE 5spd and it has been hell trying to find transmission parts for decent prices where I am.... I researched and saw that this is the only year that has the "locking differential" in both the 5spd and automatic, and that is the problem. What are the benefits? Can I swap to a non-locking if I wanted to? Can I swap for the '02-'03 6spd?<p/>SHIFT_none <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif" BORDER="0"/>  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>aemaxin</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-02-17T14:42:17-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>4</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Does a lighter Flywheel = more HP</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=398381</link> 
  <description>Was having this discussion yesterday and someone was convinced that a new lighter flywheel does not actually provide a HP gain.  This seemed counter intuitive to me, since you're reducing mass and therefore freeing up more power.  For instance on my SR20 I have a JGY 8.8lb flywheel, considerably lighter than the stock one and while I haven't been able to afford dyno time to check it feels like more power at the wheels.So this is a two part question.  Does it actually change power output, and by how much (i know this is dependent on the actual weights so use hypothetical).  </description> 
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  <![CDATA[ Was having this discussion yesterday and someone was convinced that a new lighter flywheel does not actually provide a HP gain.  This seemed counter intuitive to me, since you're reducing mass and therefore freeing up more power.  For instance on my SR20 I have a JGY 8.8lb flywheel, considerably lighter than the stock one and while I haven't been able to afford dyno time to check it feels like more power at the wheels.<p/>So this is a two part question.  Does it actually change power output, and by how much (i know this is dependent on the actual weights so use hypothetical).   ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>moersfelng08</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-03T15:18:58-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>23</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>suspension arms yield strength</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=398086</link> 
  <description>Does anyone know the yield strength of the metal typically used by nissan for suspension arms such as the toe rod, traction rod, or rear upper camber rod.Thanks</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ Does anyone know the yield strength of the metal typically used by nissan for suspension arms such as the toe rod, traction rod, or rear upper camber rod.<p/>Thanks<p/> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>disrupt</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-09T12:17:12-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>can i install s-afc on tiida </title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=397867</link> 
  <description>hi every body i want ask if i can install s-afc on my tiida and how to install it please help my mt rida engine is 1.6</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ hi every body <br/>i want ask if i can install s-afc on my tiida ??????<br/>and how to install it ???<br/>please help my <p/>mt rida engine is 1.6 ]]> 
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  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>AZIZO</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-07-20T12:44:05-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Standalone ignition system with Nissan CAS internals</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=397539</link> 
  <description>I am attempting to create a self-contained ignition system using the trigger wheel and optical pickup from a Nissan CAS.Those familiar with the CAS will remember that there are 360 slots on the outside of the trigger wheel that are read by their own optical eye to detect cam position.  Another optical eye detects the inner slots representing each cylinder (each cylinder has its own specific-length slot that is measured against the outer slots on the trigger wheel to identify the individual cylinder and send spark accordingly).Here's a graphic:The application is an air cooled, carbureted, two stroke, two cylinder motorcycle with the cylinders timed 180 degrees apart.  I plan to use a 4-cylinder Nissan CAS trigger wheel and block off two of the inner slots to create 180 degree two-cylinder firing signal.The most important aspect, and whole reason for this system is to obtain digital control over timing maps (program timing at various points along the RPM band).  There are some options available that cater to EFI setups (Megasquirt), but this box needs to be very lightweight.  There will be NO inputs except for the two optical sensors (5V each)--no throttle positioning, no tach signal (unless the outer ring of slots acts as a tach signal), etc.So, (whew!), is there an ignition control module available that would fit my needs  It needs to:1)  Recognize the Nissan system of optical sensors, or have the capability to be loaded with firmware that does (1a - where can this firmware be obtained).2)  Be COMPACT!  These bikes aren't big and don't have many places to mount accessories.3)  Offer modulation of timing throughout the RPM band and be easily programmable using a laptop or hand controller.Thanks in advance for any insight!</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I am attempting to create a self-contained ignition system using the trigger wheel and optical pickup from a Nissan CAS.<p/>Those familiar with the CAS will remember that there are 360 slots on the outside of the trigger wheel that are read by their own optical eye to detect cam position.  Another optical eye detects the inner slots representing each cylinder (each cylinder has its own specific-length slot that is measured against the outer slots on the trigger wheel to identify the individual cylinder and send spark accordingly).<p/>Here's a graphic:<p/><IMG SRC="http://img447.imageshack.us/img447/6876/cas3oy.jpg" BORDER="0"/><p/>The application is an air cooled, carbureted, two stroke, two cylinder motorcycle with the cylinders timed 180 degrees apart.  I plan to use a 4-cylinder Nissan CAS trigger wheel and block off two of the inner slots to create 180 degree two-cylinder firing signal.<p/>The most important aspect, and whole reason for this system is to obtain digital control over timing maps (program timing at various points along the RPM band).  There are some options available that cater to EFI setups (Megasquirt), but this box needs to be very lightweight.  There will be NO inputs except for the two optical sensors (5V each)--no throttle positioning, no tach signal (unless the outer ring of slots acts as a tach signal?), etc.<p/>So, (whew!), is there an ignition control module available that would fit my needs?  It needs to:<br/>1)  Recognize the Nissan system of optical sensors, or have the capability to be loaded with firmware that does (1a - where can this firmware be obtained?).<br/>2)  Be COMPACT!  These bikes aren't big and don't have many places to mount accessories.<br/>3)  Offer modulation of timing throughout the RPM band and be easily programmable using a laptop or hand controller.<p/>Thanks in advance for any insight! ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>z1 zonly</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-11T10:41:04-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>info on ecu</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=396241</link> 
  <description>I have a field active rom chiped pulsar GTIR ecu whats the diffrence with it and the stock GTIR ecu eny info will be apprceiated  </description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I have a field active rom chiped pulsar GTIR ecu whats the diffrence with it and the stock GTIR ecu eny info will be apprceiated <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif" BORDER="0"/>  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>mrln_shades</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-01-13T20:28:29-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>What Half Shafts for This NISMO LSD</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=393269</link> 
  <description>Hey guys, i have a major problem. I bought a nismo 1.5 way lsd off ebay they stated that it came out of an r200 diff. I'm trying to install it but i can't find the right input shafts for the diff. I've tried s14 open and vlsd shafts, skyline vlsd shafts and also a 300zx shaft. The skyline shafts are slightly to small. I counted 29 splines in the diff any ideas what shafts could possible work with this  l0m59 is stamped on the lsd.</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ Hey guys, i have a major problem. I bought a nismo 1.5 way lsd off ebay they stated that it came out of an r200 diff. I'm trying to install it but i can't find the right input shafts for the diff. I've tried s14 open and vlsd shafts, skyline vlsd shafts and also a 300zx shaft. The skyline shafts are slightly to small. I counted 29 splines in the diff any ideas what shafts could possible work with this ? l0m59 is stamped on the lsd. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>Carryl</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2008-12-30T10:45:44-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>gt28 adapter plate</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=390510</link> 
  <description>i have gt28, with external wastegate an a xs power turbo manifold laying around my house an im just going to put it on my rb25 just to give it a little bit extra boost because i dont have money to do big upgrade anytime soon but i need a adapter plate to make the gt28 fit the manifold they are both 4 bolt but the turbo is smaller than the manifold bolt pattern so anyone know where i can get a adapter plate or a picture of one so i could just make a adpater plate thanks</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ i have gt28, with external wastegate an a xs power turbo manifold laying around my house an im just going to put it on my rb25 just to give it a little bit extra boost because i dont have money to do big upgrade anytime soon <p/>but i need a adapter plate to make the gt28 fit the manifold they are both 4 bolt but the turbo is smaller than the manifold bolt pattern so anyone know where i can get a adapter plate or a picture of one so i could just make a adpater plate <p/>thanks ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>wetwilly8690</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2008-12-15T11:04:07-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>NEED: 300zx stock turbo dimensioned drawings</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=387807</link> 
  <description>Like the title says I'm trying to find a dimensioned drawing of the exaust outlet for the stock turbos on a Z32, also whats the model number I forgot and cant find it anywhere. I also need a dimensioned drawing of the T25 exhaust outlet (5-bolt). Im trying to fab some 5-bolt downpipes and wanna see if I can chop and reuse my aftermarket 4-bolts of the stockers. Anything will work as long as its got the right dimesions. PLEASE HELP.</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ Like the title says I'm trying to find a dimensioned drawing of the exaust outlet for the stock turbos on a Z32, also whats the model number I forgot and cant find it anywhere. I also need a dimensioned drawing of the T25 exhaust outlet (5-bolt). Im trying to fab some 5-bolt downpipes and wanna see if I can chop and reuse my aftermarket 4-bolts of the stockers. Anything will work as long as its got the right dimesions. PLEASE HELP. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>NolimitZ32</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2008-12-02T13:32:13-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Automotive Engineering Internships... Anyone Ever Have One</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=385999</link> 
  <description>I ama senior mechanical engineering major, who will be pursuing graduate studies soon, and I have yet to find an automotive company who will hire me for an internship.  My GPA is good, and I have a great deal of hands-on experience with the Baja SAE competition, as well a self car repairs. In the past two years, I was turned down by Ford, GM and Chrysler a number of times, and I just don't seem to understand who these companies hire.  I've worked for a power company in New York,  large aerospace company located on the west coast, and recieved an offer at a company who does a number of things including hybrid locomotives and jet engines.  If I recieved an automotive internship offer, I would turn down all others in a  heart-beart.Who did you work for, and how did you find your internship</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I ama senior mechanical engineering major, who will be pursuing graduate studies soon, and I have yet to find an automotive company who will hire me for an internship.  My GPA is good, and I have a great deal of hands-on experience with the Baja SAE competition, as well a self car repairs. <p/>In the past two years, I was turned down by Ford, GM and Chrysler a number of times, and I just don't seem to understand who these companies hire.  <p/>I've worked for a power company in New York,  large aerospace company located on the west coast, and recieved an offer at a company who does a number of things including hybrid locomotives and jet engines.  If I recieved an automotive internship offer, I would turn down all others in a  heart-beart.<p/>Who did you work for, and how did you find your internship? ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>Thoughtful_One</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2008-11-24T09:02:47-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Will the grounding kits stuff stop please</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=384846</link> 
  <description>i am really sick of seeing people selling grounding kits with wild claims of offering more power by adding a couple bits of wires to your car. Why is it that people continue to believe in pseudo science and continue to have this believe that we, the engineers, know less about the technology then themI have tried to explain about local ground, differential signals and impedance to people but it's like their skulls are as thick as the wires they are adding to their cars. It's bleeping frustrating. </description> 
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  <![CDATA[ i am really sick of seeing people selling grounding kits with wild claims of offering more power by adding a couple bits of wires to your car. Why is it that people continue to believe in pseudo science and continue to have this believe that we, the engineers, know less about the technology then them?<p/>I have tried to explain about local ground, differential signals and impedance to people but it's like their skulls are as thick as the wires they are adding to their cars. It's bleeping frustrating.  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>gotak</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-08-08T10:18:03-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>13</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>how to get the gauges to work in my 240sx with a vq35de swap.</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=384543</link> 
  <description>It might be a simple fix but as of right now none of the gauges are working in my 240sx (s13) are working. I been working on my car for some time now on getting this thing to run after I let a really shady shop in Tampa put a vq35de in my car. I am almost done with the fuel system, which is has been a thorn in my side for about three months.Before I go on for ever about the car I just want to know the best way to get my gauges to work. if it helps I an using a AEM stand alone ECU.  </description> 
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  <![CDATA[ It might be a simple fix but as of right now none of the gauges are working in my 240sx (s13) are working. I been working on my car for some time now on getting this thing to run after I let a really shady shop in Tampa put a vq35de in my car. I am almost done with the fuel system, which is has been a thorn in my side for about three months.<p/>Before I go on for ever about the car I just want to know the best way to get my gauges to work. <p/>if it helps I an using a AEM stand alone ECU.<br/> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/bash.gif" BORDER="0"/>  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>myS13wantsaVQ35</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-19T13:22:54-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>18</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Intercooler efficiency question</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=382686</link> 
  <description>I know it isn't an Infiniti or Nissan, but there are some very well versed people on this board who might be able to help me out with the concept applied here. Take a look at these: - What problems do you foresee with the placement of this front mount- How would it stack up to current designs in factory cars such as a Side, Top, or V-mount set up- Is airflow a major issue Will it do its job decentlyThere is a ton of room IN the front bumper cover itself, but as you can see, the bumper cover isn't exactly air flow friendly. Suggestions, concerns, criticism, etc wanted. </description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I know it isn't an Infiniti or Nissan, but there are some very well versed people on this board who might be able to help me out with the concept applied here. <p/>Take a look at these:<br/> <IMG SRC="http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t87/forcedfirebird/projectfirebird/finalsig.jpg" BORDER="0"/><p/><IMG SRC="http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t87/forcedfirebird/projectfirebird/100_2835.jpg" BORDER="0"/><p/><IMG SRC="http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t87/forcedfirebird/projectfirebird/100_2842.jpg" BORDER="0"/><p/><IMG SRC="http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t87/forcedfirebird/projectfirebird/100_2941.jpg" BORDER="0"/><p/>- What problems do you foresee with the placement of this front mount?<br/>- How would it stack up to current designs in factory cars such as a Side, Top, or V-mount set up?<br/>- Is airflow a major issue? Will it do its job decently?<p/>There is a ton of room IN the front bumper cover itself, but as you can see, the bumper cover isn't exactly air flow friendly. Suggestions, concerns, criticism, etc wanted.  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>frapjap</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2008-11-11T15:12:37-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>7</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>240sx and 300zx rear end probs, HELP!</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=382511</link> 
  <description>hey i recently purchased a 95 (or 96 ) turboed 300zx and want to swap the entire rear end including the diff onto my 96 S14 chasis, so 1st off how do i go about it i know there are huge differences on a n/a and turboed Z subframe ,but i have this pro entry level subrame and want to get rid of my semi entry level 240sx oem chasis. I know its not just four bolts and it drops and swap it into the 14, i know the coilovers i purchase might have to be returned and maybe some more since the z rides lower than the 240, and that they wont match up, so has anyone prior to me attempted this brain buster before any help will be valued and taken into consideration. also what would the rear end ride on the z struts and shocks ..NO or the s14's  ...  </description> 
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  <![CDATA[ hey i recently purchased a 95 (or 96 ) turboed 300zx and want to swap the entire rear end including the diff onto my 96 S14 chasis, so 1st off how do i go about it? i know there are huge differences on a n/a and turboed Z subframe ,but i have this pro entry level subrame and want to get rid of my semi entry level 240sx oem chasis. I know its not just four bolts and it drops and swap it into the 14, i know the coilovers i purchase might have to be returned and maybe some more since the z rides lower than the 240, and that they wont match up, so has anyone prior to me attempted this brain buster before? any help will be valued and taken into consideration. also what would the rear end ride on the z struts and shocks ..NO or the s14's ?? ... <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/wtf.gif" BORDER="0"/>  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>irishmarc18</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2008-11-11T19:56:44-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Choosing a Compressor map, Need help!</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=381746</link> 
  <description>I got really bored over the past weekend and thought I would try and to calculate the numbers I needed in order to make 650hp (flywheel) on a compressor map. However, I think I went wrong somewhere in my calculations. Please inform me if I did something wrong.Motor and #'s I used:KA24DE or 146.456 cu.inchesS13 Cams 7200rpm redlineHp goal: 650hp96lb injectorsnon-intercooled temp: 175VE: 95%AFR:12Sea level: 14.7psiaFirst:Calculate BSFC (Brake specific fuel consumption)96*4      650BSFC=.59lb/hr or .0098lb/minThen I used the BSFC to calculate actual airflow that I would need to make 650hp(flywheel):Actual Airflow (WA)= HP*a/f*bsfc(lb./min)where:-HP: 650hp-a/f:12-bsfc(lb./min): .0098so: 650*12*.0098= 76.4lbs/min = WASecond:Then I tried to calculate the required manifold pressure to meet hp(650)This is where I think I went wrong as I believe the final number I got (in bold) is way to high.MAP= WA*R*(460+Tm)         VE*n/2*volwhere:-WA: actual airflow 76.4lbs/min-R: Gas Constant or 639.6-Tm: Intake manifold pressure(Farenheit) I used 175 which is a low temp on purpose because I wanted to get as close to intercooled as possible w/o using intercooler temps. non-intercooled: 175-300-N/2: engine speed/2 or 7200/2  I used 7200 which is max rpm with S13 cams-vol: engine displacement (cu.inches)So:MAP=76.4*639.6*(460+175)                .95*7200/2*146.456MAP=61.95psia or 47.25psigThat means that I would have to produce 47psi (at the gauge) in order to make 650hp at the flywheel, that is insane when I know ivan has made over 700hp at the wheels on 42psiLastly:To calculate pressure ratio there are 3 stepsa.) compressor discharge pressure (P2C)note: depending on the flow rate the plumbing pressure drop can be estimated. On a well developed system rumor is that this is 1psi or less, on an OEM system this can be 4psi or greater. I used 2 just as a "middle man"P2C=MAP+Plosswhere:-P2C: compressor discharge pressure(psia)-MAP: manifold absolute pressure(psia)-Ploss: pressure loss b/w compressor and manifold (psi)so:P2C=61.95+2P2C=63.95psib.) Compressor inlet pressure (P1C)note: i just used sea level for ambient air pressureP1C=Pamb-Plosswhere:-P1C: compressor inlet pressure(psia)-Pamb: ambient air pressure(psia)-Ploss: pressure loss due to airfilter/piping(psi)so:P1C=14.7-2P1C=12.7c.) calculate pressure ratio (IIc)IIc=P2C/P1Cso:IIc=63.95/12.7IIc=5.035!!!!!!The two most important numbers on here are 76.4lbs/min of air and a pressure ratio of 5.035. While 76lbs of air a minute is definately possible and I know my calculations are right, a pressure ratio of 5.035 is absolutely insane   This pressure ratio won't register on any compressor map, not even a T-88. Also I know that other cars are not needing 47psig to make that kind of power so my question is how did these numbers get so high. Or am I not calculating for other power that the motor puts out. One thing I did not like what I was told is that a 4valve motor generally has a 95% VE. I think that is way high my guess is more like 85%, which would make my psig go even higher because the motor loses effieciency. I'm totally lost and if you could give me a hint as to where I went wrong that would be fantastic.Again:76.4lbs/min: OK5.035 Pressure ratio: Not OKAlso, has anyone heard of running an HX40 turbo on a KA24DE, thought it would be a good idea, 3500rpm spool up with up to 650hp+Thanks, Speckid14  </description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I got really bored over the past weekend and thought I would try and to calculate the numbers I needed in order to make 650hp (flywheel) on a compressor map. However, I think I went wrong somewhere in my calculations. Please inform me if I did something wrong.<p/>Motor and #'s I used:<br/>KA24DE or 146.456 cu.inches<br/>S13 Cams 7200rpm redline<br/>Hp goal: 650hp<br/>96lb injectors<br/>non-intercooled temp: 175<br/>VE: 95%<br/>AFR:12<br/>Sea level: 14.7psia<p/>First:<br/>Calculate BSFC (Brake specific fuel consumption)<br/><U>96*4</U><br/>      650<br/>BSFC=.59lb/hr or .0098lb/min<p/><br/>Then I used the BSFC to calculate actual airflow that I would need to make 650hp(flywheel):<p/>Actual Airflow (WA)= HP*a/f*bsfc(lb./min)<br/>where:<br/>-HP: 650hp<br/>-a/f:12<br/>-bsfc(lb./min): .0098<p/>so: 650*12*.0098= <B>76.4lbs/min = WA</B><p/><br/>Second:<br/>Then I tried to calculate the required manifold pressure to meet hp(650)<br/>This is where I think I went wrong as I believe the final number I got (in bold) is way to high.<p/>MAP= <br/><U>WA*R*(460+Tm)</U><br/>         VE*n/2*vol<br/>where:<br/>-WA: actual airflow 76.4lbs/min<br/>-R: Gas Constant or 639.6<br/>-Tm: Intake manifold pressure(Farenheit) I used 175 which is a low temp on purpose because I wanted to get as close to intercooled as possible w/o using intercooler temps. non-intercooled: 175-300<br/>-N/2: engine speed/2 or 7200/2  I used 7200 which is max rpm with S13 cams<br/>-vol: engine displacement (cu.inches)<p/>So:<br/>MAP=<br/><U>76.4*639.6*(460+175)</U><br/>                .95*7200/2*146.456<p/><B>MAP=61.95psia or 47.25psig</B><br/>That means that I would have to produce 47psi (at the gauge) in order to make 650hp at the flywheel, that is insane when I know ivan has made over 700hp at the wheels on 42psi<p/><br/>Lastly:<br/>To calculate pressure ratio there are 3 steps<p/>a.) compressor discharge pressure (P2C)<br/>note: depending on the flow rate the plumbing pressure drop can be estimated. On a well developed system rumor is that this is 1psi or less, on an OEM system this can be 4psi or greater. I used 2 just as a "middle man"<p/>P2C=MAP+Ploss<br/>where:<br/>-P2C: compressor discharge pressure(psia)<br/>-MAP: manifold absolute pressure(psia)<br/>-Ploss: pressure loss b/w compressor and manifold (psi)<p/>so:<br/>P2C=61.95+2<br/><B>P2C=63.95psi</B><p/>b.) Compressor inlet pressure (P1C)<br/>note: i just used sea level for ambient air pressure<p/>P1C=Pamb-Ploss<br/>where:<br/>-P1C: compressor inlet pressure(psia)<br/>-Pamb: ambient air pressure(psia)<br/>-Ploss: pressure loss due to airfilter/piping(psi)<p/>so:<br/>P1C=14.7-2<br/><B>P1C=12.7</B><p/>c.) calculate pressure ratio (IIc)<br/>IIc=P2C/P1C<p/>so:<br/>IIc=63.95/12.7<br/><B>IIc=5.035!!!!!!</B><p/><br/>The two most important numbers on here are 76.4lbs/min of air and a pressure ratio of 5.035. While 76lbs of air a minute is definately possible and I know my calculations are right, a pressure ratio of 5.035 is absolutely insane  <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/ahh.gif" BORDER="0"/> <br/>This pressure ratio won't register on any compressor map, not even a T-88. Also I know that other cars are not needing 47psig to make that kind of power so my question is how did these numbers get so high. Or am I not calculating for other power that the motor puts out. One thing I did not like what I was told is that a 4valve motor generally has a 95% VE. I think that is way high my guess is more like 85%, which would make my psig go even higher because the motor loses effieciency. I'm totally lost and if you could give me a hint as to where I went wrong that would be fantastic.<p/>Again:<br/><B>76.4lbs/min: OK<br/>5.035 Pressure ratio: Not OK</B><p/>Also, has anyone heard of running an HX40 turbo on a KA24DE, thought it would be a good idea, 3500rpm spool up with up to 650hp+<br/>Thanks, Speckid14 <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/Noah/1thumb.gif" BORDER="0"/>  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>Speckid14</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2008-11-13T22:27:14-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>12</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Early and Later Year VG30DE Engine Differences</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=381181</link> 
  <description>Can anyone list or direct me to a summary of the mechanical differences between the early and later year J30 engineMaintenance costs for the later year engine are lower; why  A Kevlar timing belt  It also appears that some hose connection have been relocated to on top of the plenum for easier access.How interchangeable would complete plenums beIs performance better, especially in terms of gas mileageThanks, Gerry</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ Can anyone list or direct me to a summary of the mechanical differences between the early and later year J30 engine?<p/>Maintenance costs for the later year engine are lower; why?  A Kevlar timing belt?  It also appears that some hose connection have been relocated to on top of the plenum for easier access.<p/>How interchangeable would complete plenums be?<p/>Is performance better, especially in terms of gas mileage?<p/>Thanks, Gerry ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>GerryO</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2008-11-19T22:00:13-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>air problem</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=380412</link> 
  <description>I'm not exactly sure how to explain this one but here it goes...sometimes when I turn my car  the air won't come on at all...I can here the a/c running but the air itself isn't blowing thru. I turn the knob from low to high, switch it from each setting but nothing works. One day I accidently touched this collection of wires right under where my steering wheel is right at the bottom of the dash and it kicked in. Now the only way I've figured out how to get it to come on when it doesn't is to fiddle with those wires. Not sure exactly which one i hit but obviously when I do something clicks and the comes blowing thru. Anyways now it doesn't work at all....ANYONE HAVE A CLUE</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I'm not exactly sure how to explain this one but here it goes...<p/>sometimes when I turn my car  the air won't come on at all...I can here the a/c running but the air itself isn't blowing thru. I turn the knob from low to high, switch it from each setting but nothing works. One day I accidently touched this collection of wires right under where my steering wheel is right at the bottom of the dash and it kicked in. Now the only way I've figured out how to get it to come on when it doesn't is to fiddle with those wires. Not sure exactly which one i hit but obviously when I do something clicks and the comes blowing thru. Anyways now it doesn't work at all....<p/>ANYONE HAVE A CLUE???? ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>orangeNblue</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2008-10-28T20:08:28-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Please help! Problem with Nissan Maxima SE 2007</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=380359</link> 
  <description>I started to experience squeaky noise coming from the front end of the vehicle. Whenever i stop or accelerate, go from "P" to "D" or shift to any position it gives me a squeaky or metal clicking sound. I think this has to do with transmission. May be it needs some lubrication Also, either when accelerating or decelerating the 1000 rpm mark it also clicks and squeaks. The sound is continues for a short time and then goes away. Another issue is the "whistling/high pitch" noise. It tends to do so when i accelerate. When it starts i release my foot from the gas pedal for a moment and then accelerate again. This way it goes away. Again, may be something is rubbing against something.         </description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I started to experience squeaky noise coming from the front end of the vehicle. Whenever i stop or accelerate, go from "P" to "D" or shift to any position it gives me a squeaky or metal clicking sound. I think this has to do with transmission. May be it needs some lubrication? <br/>Also, either when accelerating or decelerating the 1000 rpm mark it also clicks and squeaks. The sound is continues for a short time and then goes away. <br/>Another issue is the "whistling/high pitch" noise. It tends to do so when i accelerate. When it starts i release my foot from the gas pedal for a moment and then accelerate again. This way it goes away. Again, may be something is rubbing against something. <p/>  <br/>     <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/wtf.gif" BORDER="0"/>  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>LukaBratzi</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2008-10-28T16:26:26-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>4WD AWD 4X4, Whats the difference</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=377501</link> 
  <description>Why name it differently if they do the same thing, is 4x4 the same as the rest</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ Why name it differently if they do the same thing, is 4x4 the same as the rest? ]]> 
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  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>j1rm</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2008-12-19T21:21:06-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>searching for the perfect tuner for my car</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=371207</link> 
  <description>I was planning to buy the right Superchips for my car... well mine were not as great as it looks like... well any suggestions on this thanks in advance! :D</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I was planning to buy the right <A HREF="http://www.thepartsbin.com/brands/superchips.html" TARGET="_blank">Superchips</A> for my car... well mine were not as great as it looks like... well any suggestions on this? thanks in advance! :D<br/> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>rockwell09</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-04-14T10:59:30-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>90 pignose with a smokiong problem</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=371073</link> 
  <description>wut up guys...I recently bought a pignose hatch with a stock ka(E) and well its smoking. We changed the valve seals, oil pressure switch, oil, fuel filter, spark plugs, valve cover gasket and i just bought the o2 sensor and got some injectors, now my question is if none of these things have fixed the problem, what can the problem be(btw it smells like gas)</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ wut up guys...<p/>I recently bought a pignose hatch with a stock ka(E) and well its smoking. We changed the valve seals, oil pressure switch, oil, fuel filter, spark plugs, valve cover gasket and i just bought the o2 sensor and got some injectors, now my question is if none of these things have fixed the problem, what can the problem be?(btw it smells like gas) ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>1CLEAN180SX</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-03-03T13:09:55-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>5</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Final Drive Gearing G35X</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=368975</link> 
  <description>I just purchased a 2005 Infinity G35X with 33K miles and, based on appearance and maintenance records, has had wonderful care.  This car will be driven primarily by my wife, but it is also the "family" car.My question concerns the overall gearing of the car.  I searched the forums as well as I could, being a new user, but did not see anything directly related to my concern.The performance of the car is great, but, Holy Cow!,  this thing turns approximately 2900 RPM at 75 MPH.  I am used to driving my C-5 Corvette, (6spd manual trans.) which turns approximately 1600 RPM at 75 MPH, and my older commuter car, a Pontiac Firebird Formula (also a V-8 with a 6 spd manual trans.) turning 2000 RPM at 75 MPH.I have no doubt that the Nissan/Infinity engineers know what they are doing and had a specific purpose for using the gearing in the car.  The G35 engine has a lot of power, both HP and torque, and is seems that it could easily have used a "higher" final drive ratio without  great sacrifice in performance.  I am guessing that fuel mileage also would be improved with taller gears.  I did not buy the car for gas mileage, but intuitively, I wonder whether there is also more wear on the engine as the result of higher RPM's  Does anyone know Nissan/Infinity's thinking on the high RPM cruise speed of the engineAny information will be appreciated.P.S.  The overall gearing in the Corvette is extreme in the other direction.  Although it has a mountain of torque, it doesn't exactly jump out from under you if you want to accelerate from 75 MPH in 6th gear.  </description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I just purchased a 2005 Infinity G35X with 33K miles and, based on appearance and maintenance records, has had wonderful care.  This car will be driven primarily by my wife, but it is also the "family" car.<p/>My question concerns the overall gearing of the car.  I searched the forums as well as I could, being a new user, but did not see anything directly related to my concern.<p/>The performance of the car is great, but, Holy Cow!,  this thing turns approximately 2900 RPM at 75 MPH.  I am used to driving my C-5 Corvette, (6spd manual trans.) which turns approximately 1600 RPM at 75 MPH, and my older commuter car, a Pontiac Firebird Formula (also a V-8 with a 6 spd manual trans.) turning 2000 RPM at 75 MPH.<p/>I have no doubt that the Nissan/Infinity engineers know what they are doing and had a specific purpose for using the gearing in the car.  The G35 engine has a lot of power, both HP and torque, and is seems that it could easily have used a "higher" final drive ratio without  great sacrifice in performance.  I am guessing that fuel mileage also would be improved with taller gears.  <p/>I did not buy the car for gas mileage, but intuitively, I wonder whether there is also more wear on the engine as the result of higher RPM's?  <p/>Does anyone know Nissan/Infinity's thinking on the high RPM cruise speed of the engine?<p/>Any information will be appreciated.<p/>P.S.  The overall gearing in the Corvette is extreme in the other direction.  Although it has a mountain of torque, it doesn't exactly jump out from under you if you want to accelerate from 75 MPH in 6th gear.   ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>HObrien</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2008-09-24T10:09:22-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Weird MAF problem</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=367440</link> 
  <description>I cant figure why my engine wont stuff off when I unplug the MAF. I tried changing it to a n62/chip ecu. But still does the same thing. Does anyone have a suggestion to this problem. Would all these parts make a differenton why it doing this. Sti 550cc injectors, greddy intake manifold, 3" exhaust from turbo to muffler, FPR, and FMIC. Help me out here it seems like no one on the other forum have an idea at all.</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I cant figure why my engine wont stuff off when I unplug the MAF. I tried changing it to a n62/chip ecu. But still does the same thing. Does anyone have a suggestion to this problem.? Would all these parts make a differenton why it doing this. Sti 550cc injectors, greddy intake manifold, 3" exhaust from turbo to muffler, FPR, and FMIC. Help me out here it seems like no one on the other forum have an idea at all. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>fein4boost</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2008-09-17T14:57:42-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>SR20 Volumetric Efficiency</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=365539</link> 
  <description>What's the Volumetric Efficiency on a Blacktop   I need to do some compressor map research for my boys' S14.</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ What's the Volumetric Efficiency on a Blacktop?   I need to do some compressor map research for my boys' S14. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan &amp; Infiniti Engineering Talk</category>
  <dc:creator>Spoolin4days</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2008-09-17T16:13:05-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>5</slash:comments> 
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