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  <title>Nissan Forums / Infiniti Forums - NICOclub: Nissan Online Mechanic</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeroforum?id=23</link> 
  <description>Nissan Forums / Infiniti Forums - NICOclub: Nissan Online Mechanic</description> 
  <dc:language>en-us</dc:language> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-22T04:13:39-08:00</dc:date> 
  <sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod> 
  <sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency> 
  <sy:updateBase>1970-01-01T00:00+00:00</sy:updateBase> 
  <image>
  <title>Nissan Forums / Infiniti Forums - NICOclub</title> 
  <url>http://images.zeroforum.com/new/1/pixel.gif</url> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com</link> 
  </image><item>
  <title>KA24E: Engine Turns Over But Wont Start</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=463476</link> 
  <description>Alright I got my new KA24E installed in my 1989 240SX and the engine turns over  but wont start. I checked the spark plugs and they are firing and when I pull them out they are wet and smell like fuel so I know its getting gas. So i have researched and read that maybe i need to reset the distributor timing because maybe its firing on the wrong stroke but how do i reset itAlso if somebody thinks it may be another problem please let me know.Thanks,Mike</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ Alright I got my new KA24E installed in my 1989 240SX and the engine turns over  but wont start. I checked the spark plugs and they are firing and when I pull them out they are wet and smell like fuel so I know its getting gas. <br/>So i have researched and read that maybe i need to reset the distributor timing because maybe its firing on the wrong stroke but how do i reset it?<br/>Also if somebody thinks it may be another problem please let me know.<p/>Thanks,<br/>Mike ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>ScrapnSidwayz</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-21T23:17:58-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>4</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>interesting problems</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=463449</link> 
  <description>ok i'm kinda new to a forum setting so here goes...,i own a 95 nissan pathfinder XE-V6 (VG30E engine) i am in the process of buying a 95 nissan SE-V6 kingcab pickup and had an interesting idea...., i would like to drop a VG30DETT in place of the VG30E that rests there now.  I do already understand i need to aquire the FSM (field service manual) for both vehicles so i could repin the ECU harness in the pickup to correctly operate the VG30DETT or so i could use the ECU from the z32 donor vehicle.  The only other question or problem i am having is will the transmission bolt up to the transfer case( i.e. the 2wd models of the pathfinder and pickup use an extension housing to take up the "slack" of the driveline since there is no transfercase) i will check back on this is a couple of days (4 atmost) keep in mind i do have moderate amount of mechanical knowledge( automatics are still a mystery to me) thanks for all your responses.</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ ok i'm kinda new to a forum setting so here goes...,<p/>i own a 95 nissan pathfinder XE-V6 (VG30E engine) i am in the process of buying a 95 nissan SE-V6 kingcab pickup and had an interesting idea...., i would like to drop a VG30DETT in place of the VG30E that rests there now.  I do already understand i need to aquire the FSM (field service manual) for both vehicles so i could repin the ECU harness in the pickup to correctly operate the VG30DETT or so i could use the ECU from the z32 donor vehicle.  The only other question or problem i am having is will the transmission bolt up to the transfer case( i.e. the 2wd models of the pathfinder and pickup use an extension housing to take up the "slack" of the driveline since there is no transfercase) i will check back on this is a couple of days (4 atmost) keep in mind i do have moderate amount of mechanical knowledge( automatics are still a mystery to me) thanks for all your responses.<br/> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>jdmaddict1981</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-21T21:57:07-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>battery keeps dying</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=463407</link> 
  <description>ok, well i have replaced it twice, alt is good, ive relocated it to the back but i have no idea what could be the problem,wires is all i can think of but then how would the battery die if it was that, so any ideasthank you</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ ok, well i have replaced it twice, alt is good, ive relocated it to the back but i have no idea what could be the problem,<br/>wires is all i can think of but then how would the battery die if it was that, so any ideas?<br/>thank you<p/> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>1991ls13</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-21T13:31:05-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>nissan d21 pick up passanger rear window install</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=463394</link> 
  <description>the window is out but the bracket keeping the window in is there and i need it off. there 4 threaded screws in the side of the truck. any tips on how to do this would be great!</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ the window is out but the bracket keeping the window in is there and i need it off. there 4 threaded screws in the side of the truck. any tips on how to do this would be great! ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>corymcarthur2</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-21T11:08:51-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>2001 maxima cruise control</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=463318</link> 
  <description>need to change cruise control module on 2001 maxima cannot find the old one   any suggestions where it is under the dash</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ need to change cruise control module on 2001 maxima cannot find the old one   any suggestions where it is under the dash?????????????? ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>standaniels</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-21T11:15:05-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>need help with 93 hardbody with vacume and cooling hose</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=463178</link> 
  <description>I have a 93 pickup hard body that I swaped the engine on, I took pix before swaping but my wife busted the camera and now I am stuck trying to guess were each goes. need help with a diagram or somthing to guid me.</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I have a 93 pickup hard body that I swaped the engine on, I took pix before swaping but my wife busted the camera and now I am stuck trying to guess were each goes. need help with a diagram or somthing to guid me. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>no fear racer</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-19T20:39:28-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Nissan Maxima 06 Hard Shifting</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=463078</link> 
  <description>Hello everyoneI am new to the forum so I thank all of you for your valued expertise.I have a Nissan Maxima with about 80k miles on it and it has been hard shifting up and down when I am in automatic/manual mode shifting from 1st to 3rd gear. I took it to Nissan in Davis and without doing a diagnostic and just test drive they told me its the transmission. It will need to be replaced. WOw 4500. Of course I can't afford that so I got another opinion to a great transmission shop in Sacramento and they told me. In their opinion it is not the transmission but it could be an electrical issue but they don't have the equipment to properly diagnose the car's problem. In other words don't have the proper equipment for Nissan Coding.I figured I would take it to another Nissan dealer and have them diagnose the problem without saying anything to see what they find.I called Nissan Corporate and there aren't any recalls on the 06 but learned there is a possible class action lawsuit against Nissan for the 04s for transmission issues and Nissan won't recall the vehicles.Can anyone help me on this Anyone experience this problem I am not out to get Nissan to get into a lawsuit. I just want to properly diagnose the car and figure out what to do next without it costing me an arm and leg.Help!!!Thank you all    </description> 
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  <![CDATA[ Hello everyone<br/>I am new to the forum so I thank all of you for your valued expertise.<p/>I have a Nissan Maxima with about 80k miles on it and it has been hard shifting up and down when I am in automatic/manual mode shifting from 1st to 3rd gear. I took it to Nissan in Davis and without doing a diagnostic and just test drive they told me its the transmission. It will need to be replaced. WOw 4500. Of course I can't afford that so I got another opinion to a great transmission shop in Sacramento and they told me. In their opinion it is not the transmission but it could be an electrical issue but they don't have the equipment to properly diagnose the car's problem. In other words don't have the proper equipment for Nissan Coding.<p/>I figured I would take it to another Nissan dealer and have them diagnose the problem without saying anything to see what they find.<p/>I called Nissan Corporate and there aren't any recalls on the 06 but learned there is a possible class action lawsuit against Nissan for the 04s for transmission issues and Nissan won't recall the vehicles.<p/>Can anyone help me on this? Anyone experience this problem? I am not out to get Nissan to get into a lawsuit. I just want to properly diagnose the car and figure out what to do next without it costing me an arm and leg.<p/>Help!!!<p/><br/>Thank you all<p/> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/slap.gif" BORDER="0"/>  <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/slap.gif" BORDER="0"/>  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>folsomgal04</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-20T20:20:11-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>240sx squeaking rotors!!! help</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=463055</link> 
  <description>i have a 1990 240sx and i recently was drifting and my tire blew and it seems like nothing was damged  i changed the tire and drove it homebut i let it sit for two days and checked it out i drove i around for awhile and now my passenger rear wheel or rotor is sqeuaking im unsure whats wrongif anyone may know what could be wrong feel feel to tell.</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ i have a 1990 240sx and i recently was drifting and my tire blew and it seems like nothing was damged  i changed the tire and drove it home<p/><br/>but i let it sit for two days and checked it out i drove i around for awhile and now my passenger rear wheel or rotor is sqeuaking im unsure whats wrong<p/><br/>if anyone may know what could be wrong feel feel to tell. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>weggie46</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-19T07:39:18-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Datsun B210 auto trans leaking from the top</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462684</link> 
  <description>Sorry for cross-posting but I may have originally posted this in the wrong forum.Fluid seems to be at a proper level, (possibly not) but I have a periodic (and sometimes very wet) leak coming from the top (it actually comes up through the floor [Tranny and engine are not in a Datsun] besides dripping on the ground). Seems to happen on warmer days when engine is run harder. Other days, no leaks or very small.Transmission was serviced and pan is tight. Mechanic who serviced it didn't seem to notice anything wrong. The car did sit for a number of years.Any ideas before I take it to a shop for closer scrutiny</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ Sorry for cross-posting but I may have originally posted this in the wrong forum.<p/>Fluid seems to be at a proper level, (possibly not) but I have a periodic (and sometimes very wet) leak coming from the top (it actually comes up through the floor [Tranny and engine are not in a Datsun] besides dripping on the ground). Seems to happen on warmer days when engine is run harder. Other days, no leaks or very small.<br/>Transmission was serviced and pan is tight. Mechanic who serviced it didn't seem to notice anything wrong. The car did sit for a number of years.<br/>Any ideas before I take it to a shop for closer scrutiny? ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>mistersnak</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-19T07:16:52-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>RB25DET intake manifold</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462567</link> 
  <description>--------------------------------------------------------------------------------If i am changing the manifold to the Greddy type, do i have to get a new gasket to bolt on to the engine head If there is a gasket, does anyone know the Part No. I need to know if the Greddy type plenum also adapts with the step up idle solenoid
Modified by IslandBoy at 3:33 PM 11/19/2009</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ --------------------------------------------------------------------------------<p/>If i am changing the manifold to the Greddy type, do i have to get a new gasket to bolt on to the engine head?? <br/>If there is a gasket, does anyone know the Part No. ??<br/>I need to know if the Greddy type plenum also adapts with the step up idle solenoid?<BR/><BR/>
<i>Modified by IslandBoy at 3:33 PM 11/19/2009</i> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>IslandBoy</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-16T16:22:54-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>NEW BATTERY, NO POWER NOW TO ANYTHING!</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462338</link> 
  <description>Greetings to all, and, yes, a long time since here! Out of the country doing "fun" things, following orders!Anyway, returned to where the M30 and Q45 had been stored in my climate controlled garage, both on a trickle charger. M started immediately and was taken post haste to be serviced. Q would not start, even though Interestate Magna battery was less than a year old! Would not take a charge, and service guy said battery shot, and replaced it with new Interstate at no charge. Installed battery, and car started immediately and settled down to smooth idle. BUT.....I am getting no power to anything! ANYTHING! Seems as if a breaker switch has been thrown some where! Tried the "SEARCH" feature here, but no luck on my issue. My workshgop/service manual is somewhere, but I must do a search mission for it! Thought I would ask the Q gurus here before I tried anything else!While M was being serviced, it caught the eye of another Infiniti type who asked the manager if it was for sale! He was told that I would be facing divorce and alimony if I sold HER car!My Q (pearl over tan) is the one Dennis (aka Q45 tech) found to be "one of the best examples of an early Q" when I took it over to T-3 for guides, etc, back in 2000! It still is one fine auto!In advance, thanks for your help!</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ <br/>Greetings to all, and, yes, a long time since here! Out of the country doing "fun" things, following orders!<p/>Anyway, returned to where the M30 and Q45 had been stored in my climate controlled garage, both on a trickle charger. M started immediately and was taken post haste to be serviced. Q would not start, even though Interestate Magna battery was less than a year old! Would not take a charge, and service guy said battery shot, and replaced it with new Interstate at no charge. Installed battery, and car started immediately and settled down to smooth idle. BUT.....I am getting no power to anything! ANYTHING! Seems as if a breaker switch has been thrown some where! Tried the "SEARCH" feature here, but no luck on my issue. My workshgop/service manual is somewhere, but I must do a search mission for it! Thought I would ask the Q gurus here before I tried anything else!<p/>While M was being serviced, it caught the eye of another Infiniti type who asked the manager if it was for sale! He was told that I would be facing divorce and alimony if I sold HER car!<p/>My Q (pearl over tan) is the one Dennis (aka Q45 tech) found to be "one of the best examples of an early Q" when I took it over to T-3 for guides, etc, back in 2000! It still is one fine auto!<p/>In advance, thanks for your help!<p/> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>infinitinut2</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-19T10:27:02-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Proper procedure for setting valve lash 89 Z24</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462309</link> 
  <description>  Help! I can't find the info anywhere! 8 plug 4 cyl. injected.</description> 
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  <![CDATA[   Help! I can't find the info anywhere! 8 plug 4 cyl. injected.<p/> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>jdansmith</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-15T14:40:16-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Lost 5th Gear and Reverse on 1990 240sx transmission</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462200</link> 
  <description>Pardon me. I posted a message before reading what I should have posted and I apologize.  I have a 1990 Nissan 240 SX with a SOHC with 5 speed manual transmission.  It was very late for me when I posted and I should have read the guidelines first.  I read and post technical troubleshooting posts for a living and should have known better.Again, I apologize. What would loosen or move that would cause 5th gear and reverse disappear When I move the shifter to the right and forward or to the right and back, it's like there is nothing there to engage these two gears. No unnecessary pressure or anything I know of was put on the shifter. I just took off and when I shifted to 5th...there is nothing there Or if I stop and pull it back for reverse, the stick is just loose where the reverse position would be. All other gears are just fine. Smooth as silk. Please help...Could something in that position have slipped looseThanks
Modified by rbduck at 7:11 PM 11/15/2009</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ <br/>Pardon me. I posted a message before reading what I should have posted and I apologize.  I have a 1990 Nissan 240 SX with a SOHC with 5 speed manual transmission.  It was very late for me when I posted and I should have read the guidelines first.  I read and post technical troubleshooting posts for a living and should have known better.<br/>Again, I apologize. <p/>What would loosen or move that would cause 5th gear and reverse disappear? When I move the shifter to the right and forward or to the right and back, it's like there is nothing there to engage these two gears. No unnecessary pressure or anything I know of was put on the shifter. I just took off and when I shifted to 5th...there is nothing there ????Or if I stop and pull it back for reverse, the stick is just loose where the reverse position would be. All other gears are just fine. Smooth as silk. Please help...Could something in that position have slipped loose?<br/>Thanks<BR/><BR/>
<i>Modified by rbduck at 7:11 PM 11/15/2009</i> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>rbduck</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-15T14:23:00-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Problem releasing pressure on s14</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=461954</link> 
  <description>Looking to swap the larger z32 fuel filter into my s14 but ive been having trouble releasing the pressure. Cant seem to find the right fuse. I tried the EGI which i read elsewhere would cut the fuel and allow me to change the filter but I removed it cranked the engine and it started perfectly fine. Never stalled. Cant seem to find the right fuse. Anyone know which one it is, thanx</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ Looking to swap the larger z32 fuel filter into my s14 but ive been having trouble releasing the pressure. Cant seem to find the right fuse. I tried the EGI which i read elsewhere would cut the fuel and allow me to change the filter but I removed it cranked the engine and it started perfectly fine. Never stalled. Cant seem to find the right fuse. Anyone know which one it is, thanx ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>224leao</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-15T14:18:05-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>4</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Trouble releasing fuel pressure in my s14!!!HELP</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=461951</link> 
  <description>Im looking to swap the larger z32 fuel filter into my s14 but have been having trouble releasing the pressure. Im nt sure exactly which fuse is the one for the fuel pump. Ive read elsewhere that its the one labeled EGI but i pull that one, crank the car and it starts perfectly fine. Anyone else have any trouble would deff like to do the job properly and release the pressure first b4 anything</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ Im looking to swap the larger z32 fuel filter into my s14 but have been having trouble releasing the pressure. Im nt sure exactly which fuse is the one for the fuel pump. Ive read elsewhere that its the one labeled EGI but i pull that one, crank the car and it starts perfectly fine. Anyone else have any trouble? would deff like to do the job properly and release the pressure first b4 anything ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>224leao</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-13T10:20:55-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>anyone know what voltage the dash lights use on the 240sx digital dash</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=461796</link> 
  <description>i got the hud up and working again with repairs to the tcu and the cap fix, but i still don't get dash lights. WHAT VOLTAGE do the dash light bulbs use is it just a normal 12 volts i might just splice in a 12 fed off the headlight switch if so, so i can see the other gauges at night. ARE THE DASH BULBS WIRED IN SERIES- ie the christmas light effect, one goes out they all do...the clock lights up when the lights are off, but goes off when the lights are turned on, that's my only real clue, the dimmer switch dimms and brightens the hud just fine. haha, just reinstalled and everything worked for a split second, i think i have it figured out, thanks to smt i'll be jerry rigging the circuit board, i'll take pics and upload them, and do a formal write up to help everyone else with this problem.
Modified by wrxkyle at 3:34 PM 11/12/2009</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ i got the hud up and working again with repairs to the tcu and the cap fix, but i still don't get dash lights. <p/>WHAT VOLTAGE do the dash light bulbs use? is it just a normal 12 volts? i might just splice in a 12 fed off the headlight switch if so, so i can see the other gauges at night. <p/>ARE THE DASH BULBS WIRED IN SERIES?- ie the christmas light effect, one goes out they all do...<p/>the clock lights up when the lights are off, but goes off when the lights are turned on, that's my only real clue, the dimmer switch dimms and brightens the hud just fine. <p/>haha, just reinstalled and everything worked for a split second, i think i have it figured out, thanks to smt i'll be jerry rigging the circuit board, i'll take pics and upload them, and do a formal write up to help everyone else with this problem.<BR/><BR/>
<i>Modified by wrxkyle at 3:34 PM 11/12/2009</i> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>wrxkyle</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-13T07:47:59-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Car idling bad, won't rev over 3K RPM. MAF</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=461789</link> 
  <description>So lately my 93 KA24de has been having a weird idle issue. I read that the IAC Valve could be the culprit so I took that off, took it apart, cleaned it all and reinstalled it. Well before I started the car, I decided to check the MAF sensor, but like a dumbass I tried unscrewing the screws holding the plack plug to the top of the metal MAF piping. I didn't know the MAF unplugged from the back of that piece. I proceeded to pull that the MAF wire plugs into out. My friend also used some electrical contact cleaner, but he sprayed it into the MAF unit.So now that car will start and want to immediately die, but if I rev it, it will idle wildly from 800 to 1000, to 2000. If I accelarate, it won't go past 3000 RPMs and it just bogs back down.Also, black smoke is pouring from the exhaust, and the smell of gas is in the air.Did I royally f*** up the MAF sensor My research says yes, i just want a confirmation. At any rate I've already ordered a new MAF sensor, got lucky and found one on eBay for 50 bucks.</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ So lately my 93 KA24de has been having a weird idle issue. I read that the IAC Valve could be the culprit so I took that off, took it apart, cleaned it all and reinstalled it. Well before I started the car, I decided to check the MAF sensor, but like a dumbass I tried unscrewing the screws holding the plack plug to the top of the metal MAF piping. I didn't know the MAF unplugged from the back of that piece. I proceeded to pull that the MAF wire plugs into out. My friend also used some electrical contact cleaner, but he sprayed it into the MAF unit.<p/>So now that car will start and want to immediately die, but if I rev it, it will idle wildly from 800 to 1000, to 2000. If I accelarate, it won't go past 3000 RPMs and it just bogs back down.<p/>Also, black smoke is pouring from the exhaust, and the smell of gas is in the air.<p/>Did I royally f*** up the MAF sensor? My research says yes, i just want a confirmation. At any rate I've already ordered a new MAF sensor, got lucky and found one on eBay for 50 bucks. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>iheartzombies</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-12T13:48:39-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>2000 Nissan Altima, surges/hesitates off idle (post headgasket swap)</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=461780</link> 
  <description>I recently replaced the headgasket on a '00 Nissan Alstima KA24DE.  The head was milled, new valve guide seals, pressure and vaccum test.  I recently changed the plugs and did a compression test on all four cylinders and they came back fine.  I also replaced the MAF sensor with a reman since the original was sometimes reading 24lb/min at idle.  Ignition timing is 20* BTDC and the distributor rotor lines up at this setting where it was when I did the tear down.  So valve timing appears to be on.The car starts easily and idle fine, but will hesitate off idle sometimes and wants to cut out at 4K rpm.Scanning it the only unusual thing I've noticed is the load value % is really high at idle like 30%+.Any ideas</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I recently replaced the headgasket on a '00 Nissan Alstima KA24DE.  The head was milled, new valve guide seals, pressure and vaccum test.  I recently changed the plugs and did a compression test on all four cylinders and they came back fine.  I also replaced the MAF sensor with a reman since the original was sometimes reading 24lb/min at idle.  Ignition timing is 20* BTDC and the distributor rotor lines up at this setting where it was when I did the tear down.  So valve timing appears to be on.<p/>The car starts easily and idle fine, but will hesitate off idle sometimes and wants to cut out at 4K rpm.<p/>Scanning it the only unusual thing I've noticed is the load value % is really high at idle like 30%+.<p/>Any ideas? ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>RobZ71LM7</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-20T20:56:22-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>2000 Nissan Maxima Timing Belt</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=461650</link> 
  <description>When should the timing belt be changed on the 2000 Maxima Haven't found any info on this issue. Thanks for any help.</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ When should the timing belt be changed on the 2000 Maxima? Haven't found any info on this issue. Thanks for any help. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>win1</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-19T12:10:49-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>1995 200sx not charging</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=461622</link> 
  <description>The battery is not charging.The alternator and battery have been replaced.  It appears that the regulator is built in to the alternator, is that correctI used a volt meter and crossed the positive from the alternator to the negative terminal on the battery.  This read 12.1 volts with the car on.  With the car off it read 12.5.  This indicates that the alternator isn't putting out anything, correctI pulled what appears to be the signal why from the alternator.  With it out nothing changed.  The voltage on the signal wire with the car on is 0.05.  I assume this is a signal wire for the regulator, correctDo you guys have any suggestions  I'm kind of racking my brain on this one.Thank you in advance.</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ The battery is not charging.<p/>The alternator and battery have been replaced.  It appears that the regulator is built in to the alternator, is that correct?<p/>I used a volt meter and crossed the positive from the alternator to the negative terminal on the battery.  This read 12.1 volts with the car on.  With the car off it read 12.5.  This indicates that the alternator isn't putting out anything, correct?<p/>I pulled what appears to be the signal why from the alternator.  With it out nothing changed.  The voltage on the signal wire with the car on is 0.05.  I assume this is a signal wire for the regulator, correct?<p/>Do you guys have any suggestions?  I'm kind of racking my brain on this one.<p/>Thank you in advance. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>PoorManQ45</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-12T17:47:47-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>8</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Nissan 240SX Won't Run</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=461241</link> 
  <description>Greetings, all.  I'm stumped and in need of advice.  My Brother in Law has a 1990 Nissan 240SX.  He was driving home from work last week and it started running like hell and finally stalled.  I can't get the thing running and it's buggin' me.  It has a good strong spark, and the fuel pump delivers pressure to the injectors.  The few times I was able to get it started, I was able to determine that the #2 cyclinder is not firing at all, and #3 is sporadic.  I swapped injector #1 with injector #2, and #2 still doesn't fire.  The problem didn't follow the injector.  I swapped plug #1 with plug #2, and #2 still doesn't fire.  The problem didn't follow the plug.  So... I have spark, I have fuel, #2 won't fire, #3 is sporadic, and it has new plugs, new plug wires, new distributor cap, new rotor, new throttle position sensor, new fuel pump relay... All that and still no go...Any ideas</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ Greetings, all.  I'm stumped and in need of advice.  My Brother in Law has a 1990 Nissan 240SX.  He was driving home from work last week and it started running like hell and finally stalled.  I can't get the thing running and it's buggin' me.  It has a good strong spark, and the fuel pump delivers pressure to the injectors.  The few times I was able to get it started, I was able to determine that the #2 cyclinder is not firing at all, and #3 is sporadic.  I swapped injector #1 with injector #2, and #2 still doesn't fire.  The problem didn't follow the injector.  I swapped plug #1 with plug #2, and #2 still doesn't fire.  The problem didn't follow the plug.  So... I have spark, I have fuel, #2 won't fire, #3 is sporadic, and it has new plugs, new plug wires, new distributor cap, new rotor, new throttle position sensor, new fuel pump relay... All that and still no go...<p/>Any ideas?<br/> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>badrad600</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-15T17:46:54-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>6</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Door panel removal ***manual windows</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=461103</link> 
  <description>How do you do it I just want to know the right way to do it,before I start working on it ( I don't want to break anything) *being on the safe side*  Pix's plz --__-- *nod nod</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ How do you do it? I just want to know the right way to do it,before I start working on it ( I don't want to break anything) *being on the safe side*  Pix's plz<p/> --__-- *nod nod ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>RyoAkamatsu-Type Nismo</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-09T22:20:51-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>fog lights don't work</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=461058</link> 
  <description>I just bought a 1998 240sx and I was wondering what some reasons could be as to why the fog lights don't work.Thanks
Modified by Kouki_Dan at 9:27 PM 11/8/2009</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I just bought a 1998 240sx and I was wondering what some reasons could be as to why the fog lights don't work.<p/>Thanks<BR/><BR/>
<i>Modified by Kouki_Dan at 9:27 PM 11/8/2009</i> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>Kouki_Dan</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-12T11:13:15-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Throw out bearing</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=461004</link> 
  <description>Hi guys, I have an sr20det and my throw-out bearing is bad. My question is, how long can i ride before stuff gets really bad What could happen The reason i ask this is because its my daily and I wont have money for a new clutch for another 3 weeks. Any help would be apreciated!!Thanks!    </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Hi guys, I have an sr20det and my throw-out bearing is bad. My question is, how long can i ride before stuff gets really bad? What could happen? The reason i ask this is because its my daily and I wont have money for a new clutch for another 3 weeks. Any help would be apreciated!!<p/>Thanks! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/Noah/1thumb.gif" BORDER="0"/>  <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/Noah/1thumb.gif" BORDER="0"/>  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>typexblacktop</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-12T12:06:39-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>2008 Nissan Versa. Audible alarm and no visual</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=461000</link> 
  <description>I'm getting an audible beeping alarm while driving at various speeds and no visual light to explain the alarm.  How can I determine what  the audible is for  It doesn't happen every time I drive the car.</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ I'm getting an audible beeping alarm while driving at various speeds and no visual light to explain the alarm.  How can I determine what  the audible is for?  It doesn't happen every time I drive the car. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>ferl</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-08T15:19:24-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>1999 Sentra gxe, won't stay started (Valve assembly - control)</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=460972</link> 
  <description>I've Searched all that i could to find what this part does but it apparently has two names and while searching for both, nothing comes up.First what happens is the car is very diffcult to start and when it does start it won't stay started. I had my friend first turn the key and found the Valve Assembly Contol was making a crackling noise. I first thought was this was a IAC, but upon more searching I found the part I need.   http://www.courtesyparts.com/1....html My question is; is this part really the source of my problem. I couldn't find a single thing related to this specific part. Thanks in advance </description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I've Searched all that i could to find what this part does but it apparently has two names and while searching for both, nothing comes up.<p/>First what happens is the car is very diffcult to start and when it does start it won't stay started. I had my friend first turn the key and found the Valve Assembly Contol was making a crackling noise. I first thought was this was a IAC, but upon more searching I found the part I need.   <A HREF="http://www.courtesyparts.com/14920-valve-assy-control-sentra-200sx-b14u-1997-1999-16l-10/1997-20l-p-96558.html" TARGET="_blank">http://www.courtesyparts.com/1....html</A> <p/>My question is; is this part really the source of my problem. I couldn't find a single thing related to this specific part. <p/>Thanks in advance  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>inline976</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-08T13:14:33-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>stumped... sr question</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=460958</link> 
  <description>searched quite a bit for this but still no luck.1993 240 with a sr20det red top. car ran perfect until it wheel hopped then immediately cut off, (wheel hopped as in i was doing donuts it grabbed traction for a split second then broke loose but jolted the car pretty good). I first looked for an inertia switch or something like that, correct me if I'm wrong but these cars dont have inertia switches. Towed it home It DOES have have spark and fuel.., Let it sit for the night, then the next morning it finally started but rev'd up VERY slowly and died immediately if you tried to drive it. Any advice is very appreciated, I'm thinking it has to be something electrical since it cut off like a light switch, but not sure what would cause this. Please don't flame since this is my first post, had to delete my old one which was linked to my old school email. </description> 
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  <![CDATA[ searched quite a bit for this but still no luck.<p/>1993 240 with a sr20det red top. car ran perfect until it wheel hopped then immediately cut off, (wheel hopped as in i was doing donuts it grabbed traction for a split second then broke loose but jolted the car pretty good). <p/>I first looked for an inertia switch or something like that, correct me if I'm wrong but these cars dont have inertia switches. Towed it home It DOES have have spark and fuel.., Let it sit for the night, then the next morning it finally started but rev'd up VERY slowly and died immediately if you tried to drive it. <p/>Any advice is very appreciated, I'm thinking it has to be something electrical since it cut off like a light switch, but not sure what would cause this. <p/>Please don't flame since this is my first post, had to delete my old one which was linked to my old school email.  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>93sr240</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-08T11:34:39-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>s14 dome light wont work when passanger door is open  please help my friend out</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=460634</link> 
  <description>when my friend opens up his passanger door his dome light doesnt come on. we already replaced the bulb ,and we replaced the door pin trigger. what else can be the problemits weird cause his driver trigger is working fine so i no its not a fuse.</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ when my friend opens up his passanger door his dome light doesnt come on. we already replaced the bulb ,and we replaced the door pin trigger. what else can be the problem?its weird cause his driver trigger is working fine so i no its not a fuse. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>afmafia</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-06T05:16:13-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>VG20det Z31</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=460474</link> 
  <description>I'm using a Z32 wiring harness for a vg20det and cant get coil packs to fire or any injector "ticking".I have power to computer/maf/ignition modual/fuel pump/camshaft positition sensor and all grounds accounted for. Bypassed the ECCS and Coil relays for right now.What else is the computer missing</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I'm using a Z32 wiring harness for a vg20det and cant get coil packs to fire or any injector "ticking".I have power to computer/maf/ignition modual/fuel pump/camshaft positition sensor and all grounds accounted for. Bypassed the ECCS and Coil relays for right now.What else is the computer missing? ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>Loch Ness</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-05T10:52:21-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Alignment  Wheel Bearing  Warped Rotor  Something completely different</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=460308</link> 
  <description>This will be lengthy; for that I am sorry.I took my '08 Altima Coupe 3.5SE (CVT) in for maintenance (oil, filter, fluid checks, tire rotation, etc) almost exactly 3,000 miles ago.  With the amount of driving I do, that's  roughly a month-and-a-half ago.I didn't notice anything particular about the car when I brought it in.  I asked them to switch to synthetic oil.  Also, the tires in the back were the Bridgestone tires that came on the rear of the car when I bought it ten months ago with 18,600 on the odo. On the front were the Cooper tires that I put on at about 27,000 miles in late winter/early Spring.  The car now has nearly 43,000 miles,with the Bridgestones on the front and the Coopers on the rear.After the maintenance, the engine generally ran smoother (to the point where engine-braking was noticeably less effective), and so it might have been the decrease in engine noise and vibration that allowed me to begin to perceive the problem: I was getting a vibration accompanied by a vibrating noise at certain speeds, and still am.The noise comes, and, from my vantage in the driver's seat, seems to be coming from my right, though it just may be my perception from sitting on the left.  It only becomes apparent at speeds above 35 mph, and peaks at 55 mph, but then drops off almost instantly.  It is all but unnoticeable between the speeds of 60 and 75 mph, but it returns loudly above 75 mph.  It changes in pitch in relation to wheel speed, not engine revs.  The physical vibration associated with it is detectable at times in the steering wheel, the shift knob, the gas pedal, and occasionally the driver's seat.  I haven't noticed any change in vibration in the brake pedal that would be associated with the change in pitch of the noise, but I don't normally have my foot on the brake.A visual inspection shortly after the maintenance revealed that the plastic cover inside the wheel well, between the wheel and the oil filter was broken in multiple places.  I bought a replacement part from the dealer and installed it myself, but the noise remained.Coworkers suggested that I have my tires balanced, and that removed 90% of the vibration in each of the locations, but the noise remained.  On a lengthy drive after the balancing, I decided to try my hand at a scientific experiment and learn if it was brake-related.  So, instead of my normal practice of down-shifting to decelerate, I left the transmission in D and used the brakes, at times heavily, in the name of science.Subsequently, the noise and vibration worsened, but it still behaved in the same way at the same speeds.  There are competing theories:My roommate suspects that the car needs to be aligned.  I have my doubts; the car drives perfectly straight, and it seems odd that an alignment would cause a noise that comes and goes like that.Based on my very limited knowledge of noise (and what could be reproduced in the Car Talk noise archives), it seems to me that the noise is coming from either a bad wheel bearing or a warped rotor, but the same thing about the noise confounds me there, too.  One of my original thoughts was a sticky caliper, but I don't know enough about it to remain firm to it.Any ideas</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ This will be lengthy; for that I am sorry.<p/>I took my '08 Altima Coupe 3.5SE (CVT) in for maintenance (oil, filter, fluid checks, tire rotation, etc) almost exactly 3,000 miles ago.  With the amount of driving I do, that's  roughly a month-and-a-half ago.<p/>I didn't notice anything particular about the car when I brought it in.  I asked them to switch to synthetic oil.  Also, the tires in the back were the Bridgestone tires that came on the rear of the car when I bought it ten months ago with 18,600 on the odo. On the front were the Cooper tires that I put on at about 27,000 miles in late winter/early Spring.  The car now has nearly 43,000 miles,with the Bridgestones on the front and the Coopers on the rear.<p/>After the maintenance, the engine generally ran smoother (to the point where engine-braking was noticeably less effective), and so it might have been the decrease in engine noise and vibration that allowed me to begin to perceive the problem: I was getting a vibration accompanied by a vibrating noise at certain speeds, and still am.<p/>The noise comes, and, from my vantage in the driver's seat, seems to be coming from my right, though it just may be my perception from sitting on the left.  It only becomes apparent at speeds above 35 mph, and peaks at 55 mph, but then drops off almost instantly.  It is all but unnoticeable between the speeds of 60 and 75 mph, but it returns loudly above 75 mph.  It changes in pitch in relation to wheel speed, not engine revs.  The physical vibration associated with it is detectable at times in the steering wheel, the shift knob, the gas pedal, and occasionally the driver's seat.  I haven't noticed any change in vibration in the brake pedal that would be associated with the change in pitch of the noise, but I don't normally have my foot on the brake.<p/>A visual inspection shortly after the maintenance revealed that the plastic cover inside the wheel well, between the wheel and the oil filter was broken in multiple places.  I bought a replacement part from the dealer and installed it myself, but the noise remained.<p/>Coworkers suggested that I have my tires balanced, and that removed 90% of the vibration in each of the locations, but the noise remained.  On a lengthy drive after the balancing, I decided to try my hand at a scientific experiment and learn if it was brake-related.  So, instead of my normal practice of down-shifting to decelerate, I left the transmission in D and used the brakes, at times heavily, in the name of science.<p/>Subsequently, the noise and vibration worsened, but it still behaved in the same way at the same speeds.  There are competing theories:<p/>My roommate suspects that the car needs to be aligned.  I have my doubts; the car drives perfectly straight, and it seems odd that an alignment would cause a noise that comes and goes like that.<p/>Based on my very limited knowledge of noise (and what could be reproduced in the Car Talk noise archives), it seems to me that the noise is coming from either a bad wheel bearing or a warped rotor, but the same thing about the noise confounds me there, too.  One of my original thoughts was a sticky caliper, but I don't know enough about it to remain firm to it.<p/>Any ideas? ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>IBCoupe</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-21T08:32:41-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>please help im stumped!</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=460245</link> 
  <description>hey alright so my last motor blew and i swaped a 96 KA in my s13 and suprisingly it started first try. but when i give it throttle it does nothing =/ i can floor the peddle and it doesnt even go past 1k rpms. and yes i have the throttle cable hooked up!! and i still have the 93 ecu in would that have anything to do with it and i also swaped the 93 tps to the 96 KA cuz its tps had a second plug that my harness doesnt have could that be my problem  </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ hey alright so my last motor blew and i swaped a 96 KA in my s13 and suprisingly it started first try. but when i give it throttle it does nothing =/ i can floor the peddle and it doesnt even go past 1k rpms. and yes i have the throttle cable hooked up!! and i still have the 93 ecu in would that have anything to do with it?? and i also swaped the 93 tps to the 96 KA cuz its tps had a second plug that my harness doesnt have could that be my problem? <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/wtf.gif" BORDER="0"/> <br/> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>maniacman9558</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-04T08:16:07-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>leak in the water manifold attached to the intake manifold</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=460050</link> 
  <description>Can the water manifold be seperated from the intake manifold on a Ka24de  I have a leak in the metal tube where bypass hose attaches to the water manifold and want to take the water manifold off to repair it.  I don't want to have to take the entire intake manifold off.[IMG][/IMG]
Modified by Hunters240sx at 9:55 AM 11/3/2009</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ Can the water manifold be seperated from the intake manifold on a Ka24de?  I have a leak in the metal tube where bypass hose attaches to the water manifold and want to take the water manifold off to repair it.  I don't want to have to take the entire intake manifold off.<p/><br/>[IMG][/IMG]<BR/><BR/>
<i>Modified by Hunters240sx at 9:55 AM 11/3/2009</i> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>Hunters240sx</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-03T10:04:13-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>problems with boost</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=459964</link> 
  <description>hey guys some help needed.i got erratic idle it jumps between 1200- 2000 rpms any ideaswhen it does that it throws my afr all over the place mainly between 10-12.6. i also have my boost set at 15psi and it starts to sputter just before and at 15psi, is that a boost leak i've even tried lowering the psi but it doesn't matter same result.</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ hey guys some help needed.i got erratic idle it jumps between 1200- 2000 rpms any ideas?when it does that it throws my afr all over the place mainly between 10-12.6. i also have my boost set at 15psi and it starts to sputter just before and at 15psi, is that a boost leak? i've even tried lowering the psi but it doesn't matter same result.<br/> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>ray666</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-15T07:03:56-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>5</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Radio and Speaker Problem on Nissan Sentra 2002 GXE... please help, Thx</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=459865</link> 
  <description>I have a 2002 nissan sentra gxe.  This question is about my speakers (and possibly deck).  I bought my car from a dealer in 2004, it had 22000km on it, so it wasn't new.  It has 2 speakers in the back (20W) and 2 speakers in the front door panels, with 2 column tweeters.  I was told that my system was supposedly a Rockford Fosgate, and it looks like online pictures of similar sentras with RF systems, but nowhere on my deck or anywhere in my vehicle does it say Rockford Fosgate on it.  Additionally, I started to hear my back driver-side speaker start to crack, and then suddenly couple months later, the whole driver-side went very very low (almost no sound).  I assumed that I had blown my speakers, so I purchased Alpine S-Types, two for the back, and 2 for the front with separate tweeters. My friend helped install them and splice the wiring to connect everything up.  However, even with new speakers all around (except for the tweeters, which we were too scared to install the Alpine ones because we didn't know how to remove the stock ones) the sound coming out of the speakers is still weird.  For example - with radio on, my driver side is quieter than my passenger side.  Using an FM transmitter and my Ipod, the driver side is so quiet it might as well be considered no sound.  BUT, oddly enough, when I'm using my CD player function, the driver side is crystal clear and good volume, and the passenger side is now the one that is dead sound (very very very low).  I looked online, and someone else had similar symptoms and was told that it was an IC (IC what is that) problem.  Can anyone help me with this  What need I do to get my car audio back on track  Where should I take it Can I do it myself Need I buy a new deck  Thanks....</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ I have a 2002 nissan sentra gxe.  This question is about my speakers (and possibly deck).  I bought my car from a dealer in 2004, it had 22000km on it, so it wasn't new.  It has 2 speakers in the back (20W) and 2 speakers in the front door panels, with 2 column tweeters.  I was told that my system was supposedly a Rockford Fosgate, and it looks like online pictures of similar sentras with RF systems, but nowhere on my deck or anywhere in my vehicle does it say Rockford Fosgate on it.  Additionally, I started to hear my back driver-side speaker start to crack, and then suddenly couple months later, the whole driver-side went very very low (almost no sound).  I assumed that I had blown my speakers, so I purchased Alpine S-Types, two for the back, and 2 for the front with separate tweeters. My friend helped install them and splice the wiring to connect everything up.  However, even with new speakers all around (except for the tweeters, which we were too scared to install the Alpine ones because we didn't know how to remove the stock ones) the sound coming out of the speakers is still weird.  For example - with radio on, my driver side is quieter than my passenger side.  Using an FM transmitter and my Ipod, the driver side is so quiet it might as well be considered no sound.  BUT, oddly enough, when I'm using my CD player function, the driver side is crystal clear and good volume, and the passenger side is now the one that is dead sound (very very very low).  I looked online, and someone else had similar symptoms and was told that it was an IC (IC? what is that?) problem.  Can anyone help me with this?  What need I do to get my car audio back on track?  Where should I take it? Can I do it myself? Need I buy a new deck?  Thanks.... ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>nissansentra2002</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-11T19:14:40-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Help Please - 1994 Maxima Electric Problems ()</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=459845</link> 
  <description>Hello...The 20 amp fuses for my brakes (STOP) and meters and gauges light (RAD FAN MOTOR) both went out at the same time. When I replace them they both blow out almost immediately. Any ideas what is causing thisThank you!
Modified by siys at 2:39 PM 11/2/2009</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ Hello...<p/>The 20 amp fuses for my brakes (STOP) and meters and gauges light (RAD FAN MOTOR) both went out at the same time. When I replace them they both blow out almost immediately. Any ideas what is causing this?<p/>Thank you!<BR/><BR/>
<i>Modified by siys at 2:39 PM 11/2/2009</i> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>siys</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-02T10:22:31-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>front winshield pump not working</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=459838</link> 
  <description>my wifes 09 rouge is great but when she tries to use the front windshield washer pump it dosent do anything. the wipers activate but no fluid. funny because the rear pumps fine and the blades work ok there.any ideas where to look</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ my wifes 09 rouge is great but when she tries to use the front windshield washer pump it dosent do anything. the wipers activate but no fluid. funny because the rear pumps fine and the blades work ok there.<p/>any ideas where to look ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>sleepingiant</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-02T09:53:31-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Almera airbag warning light flashing</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=459832</link> 
  <description>we recently brought a nissan almera and later found it must of been in a slight bang as it had some issues but just been mot'd which we found out had been a dodgy MOT and the garage for free of charge are doing all the work,the one problem they cnt resolve is the airbag warning light is flashing,they told me drivers is fine buy passenger one may be missiung,but they say this isnt an issue on an MOT aslong as drivers is okis this right or are they mugging me offthanks  </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ we recently brought a nissan almera and later found it must of been in a slight bang as it had some issues but just been mot'd which we found out had been a dodgy MOT and the garage for free of charge are doing all the work,the one problem they cnt resolve is the airbag warning light is flashing,they told me drivers is fine buy passenger one may be missiung,but they say this isnt an issue on an MOT aslong as drivers is ok?is this right or are they mugging me off?thanks <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/anger.gif" BORDER="0"/>  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>singlestud</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-02T08:45:19-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>MAking noise when turning steering left n right turns in the front!!</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=459773</link> 
  <description>When I make left or right turn is making noise on both front side.2004 Nissan maxima</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ When I make left or right turn is making noise on both front side.<p/>2004 Nissan maxima ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>Rohanmax14</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-01T20:46:53-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>s14 front brake caliper bracket rubbing on rotor</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=459563</link> 
  <description>hi im s14s front brake caliper bracket is rubbing on the rotor and wont let my wheel turn. what can be the problemi have tried a new caliper and bracket that didnt solve the issue. i think the knuckle is bent . any help is welcomed </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ hi im s14s front brake caliper bracket is rubbing on the rotor and wont let my wheel turn. what can be the problem?i have tried a new caliper and bracket that didnt solve the issue. i think the knuckle is bent . any help is welcomed  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>afmafia</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-31T14:23:40-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>SR18DE Motor Siezed Up Week After Buying Car, Tips on Transplant</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=459492</link> 
  <description>Hi Everyone. First car, a nice 1995 nissan pulsar GT sedan, week after perchase engine has SIEZED! unforseen problem that struck without warning just four weeks after an oil change and service. Just bad luck according to a DIFFERENT mechanic. Basically motor is rooted, of course, and am about to have it replaced. just wondering if there were any tips as to whether i should get another SR18DE motor or are there other options also wondering if theres anything else i should get done while its at the mechanics for performance and reliability etc. car has done 144,000kms. Cheers</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Hi Everyone. <p/>First car, a nice 1995 nissan pulsar GT sedan, week after perchase engine has SIEZED! unforseen problem that struck without warning just four weeks after an oil change and service. Just bad luck according to a DIFFERENT mechanic. Basically motor is rooted, of course, and am about to have it replaced. just wondering if there were any tips as to whether i should get another SR18DE motor or are there other options? also wondering if theres anything else i should get done while its at the mechanics for performance and reliability etc. car has done 144,000kms. Cheers ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>bumdash</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-31T02:54:34-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>sr20det rocker arm guides &amp; shims</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=459485</link> 
  <description>I lost some of mine when replacing the valves, does it matter if I use the ones out of my buddies old motor, will I need to get them sized I will be using stock hydraulic lifters</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ I lost some of mine when replacing the valves, does it matter if I use the ones out of my buddies old motor, will I need to get them sized? I will be using stock hydraulic lifters?? ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>topless_240</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-05T17:07:51-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Nissan FAST for Windows Software 2009</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=459462</link> 
  <description>I just got my hand on the latest NISSAN FAST Software Parts Program. If you need anything looked up hit me up. Here are some screen shots.  </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ I just got my hand on the latest NISSAN FAST Software Parts Program. If you need anything looked up hit me up.<br/> <br/>Here are some screen shots.<br/> <br/><IMG SRC="http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u159/zilvia_album/SP32-20091030-191534.gif" BORDER="0"/><br/> <br/><IMG SRC="http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u159/zilvia_album/SP32-20091030-201903.gif" BORDER="0"/><br/><IMG SRC="http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u159/zilvia_album/SP32-20091030-201908.gif" BORDER="0"/><br/><IMG SRC="http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u159/zilvia_album/SP32-20091030-201913.gif" BORDER="0"/><br/><IMG SRC="http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u159/zilvia_album/SP32-20091030-201944.gif" BORDER="0"/> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>UNISA JECS</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-17T14:39:30-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>5</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>1998 Maxima sluggish</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=459223</link> 
  <description>I have a 1998 Maxima GXE automatic with 85,000 miles on it. When the engine/trans. is cold it seems to run great. But when the /trans. warms up it begins to feel sluggish off the line and during passing. When it is being sluggish under hard acceleration it shifts VERY hard into 2nd. It is still drivable but is annoying as hell. I flushed the transmission fluid about 4k miles ago, but no change. Doesn't seem like it is missing, engine runs smooth as always. Any ideas Thanks!</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ I have a 1998 Maxima GXE automatic with 85,000 miles on it. When the engine/trans. is cold it seems to run great. But when the /trans. warms up it begins to feel sluggish off the line and during passing. When it is being sluggish under hard acceleration it shifts VERY hard into 2nd. It is still drivable but is annoying as hell. I flushed the transmission fluid about 4k miles ago, but no change. Doesn't seem like it is missing, engine runs smooth as always. Any ideas? Thanks! ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>98GXE425</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-31T23:49:21-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>No Fire on 87 D21</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=459222</link> 
  <description>My 1987 D21 (z24-std tranny) Quit the other day. Found that there was no fire at plugs. Have checked coils. Both have Battery voltage. Resistance fine. Have one Black wire w/red dots plugged into side of distributor. No power here at any time. Key on or off and while cranking engine. Need to know how much voltage should be here, whne itr should be here and where it comes form. Have traced the wire into dash. Am about to take dash apart to continue investigation. Haynes manuel incomplete on this subject, local mechanics baffled. I know there has to be power to this point but do not want to put jumper here until I get further info. Please help!! 
Modified by mattlyon at 7:44 PM 10/29/2009</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ My 1987 D21 (z24-std tranny) Quit the other day. Found that there was no fire at plugs. Have checked coils. Both have Battery voltage. Resistance fine. Have one Black wire w/red dots plugged into side of distributor. No power here at any time. Key on or off and while cranking engine. Need to know how much voltage should be here, whne itr should be here and where it comes form. Have traced the wire into dash. Am about to take dash apart to continue investigation. Haynes manuel incomplete on this subject, local mechanics baffled. I know there has to be power to this point but do not want to put jumper here until I get further info. Please help!! <BR/><BR/>
<i>Modified by mattlyon at 7:44 PM 10/29/2009</i> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>mattlyon</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-29T19:44:58-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>HELP! 300zx fuel pump wont turn on - relay is good</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=459091</link> 
  <description>Hi, I could really use some help.  I have a 90 z32 which wont start.  I have killed my battery 2 times trying to test multiple things and I am out of ideas.  Here is what I know: My fuel pump relay is new.  My ECU is new and the cable is plugged in tight (verified working).  If I jump the relay, i can get the fuel pump to start pumping fuel, but the engine still only cranks but does not turn over.  (I know its pumping fuel cause I took the fuel filter off and watched it pump fuel).  I checked all the voltages and they are all within spec.  The fuel pump had gone bad, and I replaced it (so its new).  I am new to repairing these cars, but here is what I know I have:- 90' Nissan 300zx TT with a 94 JDM motor (just swapped)- Upgaded body kit and springs and shocks(not that it matters)- New battery- New Plenum (kept the EGR cause I live in CA and didnt want to chance it)- Front Mount Intercooler- Turbo timer- upgraded gages, including boost gauge and engine rich/lean gugeThats pretty much it, no new turbos, exhaust, or any of the main stuff yet.  Just some basic body mods and a new motor.  When I tun the key to on, I hear the HICAS start up, and the oil pump.  I get a check engine light and just a constant "trying to turn over" but nothing.I feel I have ruled out the Fuel Computer cause the pump pumps when I bypass the relay. (with varied voltage)  I also checked the voltage going into and coming out of the fuel computer and it looks accurate.  It seems like there is something I am missing either a security or electrical issue.  (It appears that the relay is not getting the signal to turn the pump on and whatever is doing that is likley also preventing the motor from starting when I bypass the relay) Also, I have tried to start the car with the security light on the dash off, by pushing the hood sensor down just to make sure that wasn't it.  I am out of ideas.  The only thing I can think to do is go buy a code reader and try that but they are a bit expensive for me now. If anyone has any suggestions, I am definitely open for anything at this point.Thanks-</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Hi, I could really use some help.  I have a 90 z32 which wont start.  I have killed my battery 2 times trying to test multiple things and I am out of ideas.  Here is what I know: My fuel pump relay is new.  My ECU is new and the cable is plugged in tight (verified working).  If I jump the relay, i can get the fuel pump to start pumping fuel, but the engine still only cranks but does not turn over.  (I know its pumping fuel cause I took the fuel filter off and watched it pump fuel).  I checked all the voltages and they are all within spec.  The fuel pump had gone bad, and I replaced it (so its new).  I am new to repairing these cars, but here is what I know I have:<br/>- 90' Nissan 300zx TT with a 94 JDM motor (just swapped)<br/>- Upgaded body kit and springs and shocks(not that it matters)<br/>- New battery<br/>- New Plenum (kept the EGR cause I live in CA and didnt want to chance it)<br/>- Front Mount Intercooler<br/>- Turbo timer<br/>- upgraded gages, including boost gauge and engine rich/lean guge<br/>Thats pretty much it, no new turbos, exhaust, or any of the main stuff yet.  Just some basic body mods and a new motor.  When I tun the key to on, I hear the HICAS start up, and the oil pump.  I get a check engine light and just a constant "trying to turn over" but nothing.<p/>I feel I have ruled out the Fuel Computer cause the pump pumps when I bypass the relay. (with varied voltage)  I also checked the voltage going into and coming out of the fuel computer and it looks accurate.  It seems like there is something I am missing either a security or electrical issue.  (It appears that the relay is not getting the signal to turn the pump on and whatever is doing that is likley also preventing the motor from starting when I bypass the relay) Also, I have tried to start the car with the security light on the dash off, by pushing the hood sensor down just to make sure that wasn't it.  I am out of ideas.  The only thing I can think to do is go buy a code reader and try that but they are a bit expensive for me now. <p/>If anyone has any suggestions, I am definitely open for anything at this point.<p/>Thanks- ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>psycle</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-28T20:52:15-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>PLEASE HELP!! tranny will not go in gear, stuck in neutral! (vid inside)</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=459038</link> 
  <description>Ok so here's the deal, I am doing an sr swap, blah blah, and I was planning on using my ka tranny w/ an sr bellhousing. Well my ka tranny worked great before, I did the sr bellhousing swap, and everything went fine. When I got the tranny back together, I put the shifter on to see if it would go into gears fine, but it wouldn't go into any gears, but the input shaft will still spin like it's in neutral It's driving me insane, what could be the problemsorry for the crappy quality cell phone is all I had on me at the time.</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Ok so here's the deal, I am doing an sr swap, blah blah, and I was planning on using my ka tranny w/ an sr bellhousing. Well my ka tranny worked great before, I did the sr bellhousing swap, and everything went fine. When I got the tranny back together, I put the shifter on to see if it would go into gears fine, but it wouldn't go into any gears, but the input shaft will still spin like it's in neutral? It's driving me insane, what could be the problem?<p/><A HREF="http://s103.photobucket.com/albums/m149/graywaters_2006/?action=view&amp;current=VID00018.flv" TARGET="_blank"><IMG SRC="http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m149/graywaters_2006/th_VID00018.jpg" BORDER="0"/></A><p/>sorry for the crappy quality cell phone is all I had on me at the time. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>topless_240</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-19T11:46:57-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>01 Pathfinder Rear Hatch (Truck) door actuator</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=458733</link> 
  <description>Hi,I am back with another question. Does anyone know where I can get a rear hatch door lock actuator for a reasonable price. Not the glass door but the trunk door actuator. I need my brake light fix and it seems as though I cant get it fix unless I can open my trunk. So Please HELP!!!!!!!ThanksD-Dee </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Hi,<p/>I am back with another question. Does anyone know where I can get a rear hatch door lock actuator for a reasonable price. Not the glass door but the trunk door actuator. I need my brake light fix and it seems as though I cant get it fix unless I can open my trunk. So Please HELP!!!!!!!<p/>Thanks<br/>D-Dee  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>ddee</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-27T08:41:36-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>S13 clutch pedal pops when depressed and pedal adjustment</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=458616</link> 
  <description>About 1/3 of the way through depressing the clutch there is an pop that can be heard and also be felt thought the pedal. I got down there with a light and from what I can tell the double coiled return spring for the pedal is what is doing this. I watch it while pressing and that spring jumps when the pop sound is heard/felt. Just wondering if anyone has had this problem before or can recommend a way to fix it. All I have tried is lubing it and poking it with a screwdriver, both of which did nothing.Also, how do you make sure the pedal is adjusted to not put pressure on the clutch when released When I was first looking at this problem, I moved the outer pedal stop in a bit to bypass a sloppy start to the pedal, but now I'm not sure if I have it adjusted correctly. When I did it I basically took out all the slack in the pedal assembly, so now moving the pedal at all is pushing the rod that goes to the master cylinder.</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ About 1/3 of the way through depressing the clutch there is an pop that can be heard and also be felt thought the pedal. I got down there with a light and from what I can tell the double coiled return spring for the pedal is what is doing this. I watch it while pressing and that spring jumps when the pop sound is heard/felt. Just wondering if anyone has had this problem before or can recommend a way to fix it. All I have tried is lubing it and poking it with a screwdriver, both of which did nothing.<p/>Also, how do you make sure the pedal is adjusted to not put pressure on the clutch when released? When I was first looking at this problem, I moved the outer pedal stop in a bit to bypass a sloppy start to the pedal, but now I'm not sure if I have it adjusted correctly. When I did it I basically took out all the slack in the pedal assembly, so now moving the pedal at all is pushing the rod that goes to the master cylinder. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>bcar240</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-28T20:43:38-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>sr20det maf electrical</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=458074</link> 
  <description>my maf plug has one of the pins getting power. the other two do not. the pin getting power is either on the far right or far left depending on how how you hold it. the other 2 do not. what i'm planning on doing is tearing into my wiring tommorrow but I have not done anything to the car recently that could cause all this. any ideasi have switched mafs with a known working sr 240. still nothinganway to hardwire the maf straight to ecu</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ my maf plug has one of the pins getting power. the other two do not. the pin getting power is either on the far right or far left depending on how how you hold it. the other 2 do not. <p/>what i'm planning on doing is tearing into my wiring tommorrow but I have not done anything to the car recently that could cause all this. any ideas?<p/>i have switched mafs with a known working sr 240. still nothing<p/><br/>anway to hardwire the maf straight to ecu?? ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>240sx_ch08</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-23T20:06:50-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>No reverse lights</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=457951</link> 
  <description>i have an 88 pathfinder 5 speed and the reverse lights dont work any ideas </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ i have an 88 pathfinder 5 speed and the reverse lights dont work any ideas? <br/> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>cordeiro508</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-23T09:39:15-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>s14 clutch slipping</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=457886</link> 
  <description>OK, so this seems completely backwards to me. I have a pretty stock KADE with a Nismo flywheel, 1st, 2nd, and 3rd pull strong, but 4th and 5th slip at anything over 3/4 throttle between 4-6k rpms.any ideas</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ OK, so this seems completely backwards to me. I have a pretty stock KADE with a Nismo flywheel, 1st, 2nd, and 3rd pull strong, but 4th and 5th slip at anything over 3/4 throttle between 4-6k rpms.<p/>any ideas? ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>jspeedm</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-22T22:26:18-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Whats it called</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=457807</link> 
  <description>whats the name of the linkage that connects to the back of the lower control arm and attaches to the chassis mines rotted out and makes my truck shake... i looked it up in a nissan part catalog and its a "rod-tension" but no parts places know what the hell it is and i cant find the part anywhere</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ whats the name of the linkage that connects to the back of the lower control arm and attaches to the chassis? mines rotted out and makes my truck shake... i looked it up in a nissan part catalog and its a "rod-tension" but no parts places know what the hell it is and i cant find the part anywhere ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>cordeiro508</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-22T18:41:20-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>another digital speedo issue, i've done the cap and tcu fixes, help :(</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=457624</link> 
  <description>so i just did the capacitor fix Technical Articles: How to: Repair 240sx digital speedometer with HUD.) and i still don't get the speedometer or the HUD to light up at all. i did this to two different clusters i have for the car, and no dice on either of them. i think this may have been part of the problem, but not all of it, i found the other article on the burnt out tcu as well, and sure enough, it had the burnt lead, about 5 minuets(had to wait for the soldering iron to warm up)later, i had that fixed, i don't know if any components got fried but the burnt lead is fixed.problem is, before finding that article online i went to touch up my soldering job, and probably unfixed the speedo unit after it was working :  so now i'm looking for someone with a working speedo unit and tcu that i could meet and figure out which is the problem, or if both/neither are.oh i just bought myself the 240 as an early birthday present and to keep the wrx company, i'll post some pix in what ever new to the forums thread there is.oh, sr20det conversion with central 20 racing spl ecu brain. digital hud and speedo. thanks all!!!!(i posted at zilvia and not a single peep from anyone, i hope i get some answers here,  is there any way to bench test the speedo) tach works, all other gauges work, even the odo works, which is hooked to the speedo unit . i get no cluster lighting exept for the wrning lights/seatbelt, ect...
Modified by wrxkyle at 7:09 PM 10/21/2009</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ so i just did the capacitor fix Technical Articles: How to: Repair 240sx digital speedometer with HUD.) and i still don't get the speedometer or the HUD to light up at all. i did this to two different clusters i have for the car, and no dice on either of them. i think this may have been part of the problem, but not all of it, i found the other article on the burnt out tcu as well, and sure enough, it had the burnt lead, about 5 minuets(had to wait for the soldering iron to warm up)later, i had that fixed, i don't know if any components got fried but the burnt lead is fixed.<br/>problem is, before finding that article online i went to touch up my soldering job, and probably unfixed the speedo unit after it was working :  <p/>so now i'm looking for someone with a working speedo unit and tcu that i could meet and figure out which is the problem, or if both/neither are.<p/><br/>oh i just bought myself the 240 as an early birthday present and to keep the wrx company, i'll post some pix in what ever new to the forums thread there is.<p/>oh, sr20det conversion with central 20 racing spl ecu brain. digital hud and speedo. thanks all!!!!(i posted at zilvia and not a single peep from anyone, i hope i get some answers here,  <B>is there any way to bench test the speedo?)</B> <p/><br/>tach works, all other gauges work, even the odo works, which is hooked to the speedo unit . i get no cluster lighting exept for the wrning lights/seatbelt, ect...<BR/><BR/>
<i>Modified by wrxkyle at 7:09 PM 10/21/2009</i> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>wrxkyle</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-28T12:02:00-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Car stalls upon startup/rough running</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=457475</link> 
  <description>So I just picked up an 89 240sx coupe the other day....Here's when the problem starts. I go to start it up while its cold, all it does is bog right out. With someone hittin on the MAF with a ratchet while I turn it over, it starts. Has trouble idling while cold as well. Once warmed up, the car will idle and drive, but has a serious bogging issue around 2k, then sproraticly around 3k. I figured MAF was the issue, so I replaced it with one from a friend, but it's still doing the same thing. I've got about 3-4 more sitting in the room, so I'm gonna try continuisly replacing it, seeing if it gets better. Is there anything else that could be causing thisNOTE- Theres a sensor inbetween the throttle body and the valve cover attached to the head that, when played with during idle, seems to cause the car to run better. What sensor is that, and would it cause this issue</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ So I just picked up an 89 240sx coupe the other day....Here's when the problem starts. I go to start it up while its cold, all it does is bog right out. With someone hittin on the MAF with a ratchet while I turn it over, it starts. Has trouble idling while cold as well. Once warmed up, the car will idle and drive, but has a serious bogging issue around 2k, then sproraticly around 3k. I figured MAF was the issue, so I replaced it with one from a friend, but it's still doing the same thing. I've got about 3-4 more sitting in the room, so I'm gonna try continuisly replacing it, seeing if it gets better. Is there anything else that could be causing this?<p/>NOTE- Theres a sensor inbetween the throttle body and the valve cover attached to the head that, when played with during idle, seems to cause the car to run better. What sensor is that, and would it cause this issue? ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>joshmeyer</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-21T06:15:46-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>06 Pathfinder oil pressure gauge on HIGH</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=457361</link> 
  <description>I changed the oil on my 06 Pathfinder on Saturday, 4 days ago and all was fine. This morning when i went to start the truck, the oil pressure gauge was moving with the throtle gauge then just went all they way up past the H Now when i start the truck it shoots right up to high and i know the truck is not even warmed up yet. I checked the oil and everything is fine, no leaks Any ideas Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I changed the oil on my 06 Pathfinder on Saturday, 4 days ago and all was fine. This morning when i went to start the truck, the oil pressure gauge was moving with the throtle gauge then just went all they way up past the H??? Now when i start the truck it shoots right up to high and i know the truck is not even warmed up yet. I checked the oil and everything is fine, no leaks? Any ideas?? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>supreme360</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-20T14:52:59-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>KA24DE will not crank/start!!!!! I have never heard the noise it's makin!!</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=457217</link> 
  <description>I own a 91 240sx with a stock KA24DE. We recently replaced some gaskets and did some clean up work. We go to put everything together and she won't crank at all. Lights, horn ect. work and starter is new! When the ignition is turned to the just sitting there ON position, the dash area makes a sound like a small air hammer I have never heard that before any help guys </description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I own a 91 240sx with a stock KA24DE. We recently replaced some gaskets and did some clean up work. We go to put everything together and she won't crank at all. Lights, horn ect. work and starter is new! When the ignition is turned to the just sitting there ON position, the dash area makes a sound like a small air hammer?? I have never heard that before any help guys???  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>Dr.Noisewater</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-20T00:00:55-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>will my NA s13 lose back pressure due to my greddy 3.15in steel piping</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=456846</link> 
  <description>will my NA s13 lose back pressure or loss of power due to my greddy 3.15in steel piping</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ will my NA s13 lose back pressure or loss of power due to my greddy 3.15in steel piping? ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>ybot13</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-17T21:43:28-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>90 240sx auto trans issues help please!!!!!!!!</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=456699</link> 
  <description>hey do you why my 90 240sx ka24e sohc automatic trans RE4R01A will not shift in to overdrive or 4th gear after it warms up.20 mins after that it kinda will if you feather the pedal i have looked for answers i have even replaced sensors. help please if you know anything i cant the 5 sp swap right nowcould it be the inhibitor switch</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ hey do you why my 90 240sx ka24e sohc automatic trans RE4R01A will not shift in to overdrive or 4th gear after it warms up.20 mins after that it kinda will if you feather the pedal i have looked for answers i have even replaced sensors. help please if you know anything i cant the 5 sp swap right now<p/>could it be the inhibitor switch? ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>pktj21</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-16T20:59:38-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>What size is the wheel bearing lock nut for my 01 Pathy/QX4</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=456595</link> 
  <description>So it's been a real b**** trying to find a tool for this. I replaced my rotors a while ago but didn't torque the wheel bearing lock nut to spec because I didn't have the tool, I still don't. Does anyone know what the right tool is I've seen the sockets but not sure what the correct size is. Thanks!Billy</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ So it's been a real b**** trying to find a tool for this. I replaced my rotors a while ago but didn't torque the wheel bearing lock nut to spec because I didn't have the tool, I still don't. Does anyone know what the right tool is? I've seen the sockets but not sure what the correct size is. Thanks!<p/>Billy ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>Empty V</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-16T11:03:05-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>A/C on with defroster</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=456104</link> 
  <description>I just got a Cube 1.8. and I have realized in  the few days I've been driving it that  sometimes the A/C switch is lit up "on" - it's cool enough I haven't needed it, so I kept turning it off and trying to figure out the exact circumstances that turn it on before I either take to the dealer to have something fixxed, or I look like an idiot complaining to the dealer about something that's not "wrong".  I figured out that the vent setting is effecting this: either turning the a/c on at start up if the vent setting is already at defroster, or whenever you rotate the switch to defroster while driving.So, is this some new engineering thing to prolong the life of the compressor  Or is it actually wrong.....oh, yeah, I did also RTFB (check the owners manual)   and it didn't say anything more than to push the button to turn a/c on and the switch  will light up.EDIT:So it appears this is just the way they do it these days from some searching around the net (since noone posted a quick simple answer I spent my lunch time on the web) it's suposed to help clear the windsheild faster....whatever......shame on me for my next newset vehicle being a 97 (before this became a common feature) and thinking this is screwy way to do things!!! ....So I guess I'll figure out a bypass for this feature after the warranty runs out since I prefer air from the defroster vents most of the time. Modified by Heavy Metal Doctor at 1:15 PM 10/14/2009
Modified by Heavy Metal Doctor at 1:17 PM 10/14/2009</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I just got a Cube 1.8. and I have realized in  the few days I've been driving it that  sometimes the A/C switch is lit up "on" - it's cool enough I haven't needed it, so I kept turning it off and trying to figure out the exact circumstances that turn it on before I either take to the dealer to have something fixxed, or I look like an idiot complaining to the dealer about something that's not "wrong". <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/yelrotflmao-vi.gif" BORDER="0"/> <br/>I figured out that the vent setting is effecting this: either turning the a/c on at start up if the vent setting is already at defroster, or whenever you rotate the switch to defroster while driving.<br/>So, is this some new engineering thing to prolong the life of the compressor?  Or is it actually wrong?.<br/>....oh, yeah, I did also RTFB (check the owners manual) <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif" BORDER="0"/>  and it didn't say anything more than to push the button to turn a/c on and the switch  will light up.<p/>EDIT:<br/>So it appears this is just the way they do it these days from some searching around the net (since noone posted a quick simple answer I spent my lunch time on the web) it's suposed to help clear the windsheild faster....whatever......shame on me for my next newset vehicle being a 97 (before this became a common feature) and thinking this is screwy way to do things!!! ....So I guess I'll figure out a bypass for this feature after the warranty runs out since I prefer air from the defroster vents most of the time.<br/> <p/><br/><i>Modified by Heavy Metal Doctor at 1:15 PM 10/14/2009</i><BR/><BR/>
<i>Modified by Heavy Metal Doctor at 1:17 PM 10/14/2009</i> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>Heavy Metal Doctor</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-30T19:17:05-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>I NEED HELP MY EVERYDAY CAR WONT START (SOMETHING ELECTRICAL I THINK)</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=455976</link> 
  <description>my pos sensor was leaking oil so i had to replace the o rings, so i went ahead and put 2 o ring on it and reinstalled it and the car started. my fatherinlaw tried to put a ram air intake but he thinks he knock something loose or unpluged something . when u turn the kety both the a/c and radiator fan kick on, and the car wont start it will just turn and drag .. what could have been unplugged. and i replaced the fan relays so its not that</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ my pos sensor was leaking oil so i had to replace the o rings, so i went ahead and put 2 o ring on it and reinstalled it and the car started. my fatherinlaw tried to put a ram air intake but he thinks he knock something loose or unpluged something . when u turn the kety both the a/c and radiator fan kick on, and the car wont start it will just turn and drag .. what could have been unplugged. and i replaced the fan relays so its not that ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>armystr0ng</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-13T11:50:17-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>'91 300zx TT, push clutch in, car won't go into gear</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=455959</link> 
  <description>I jumped in my car last night heading home from work.  Noticed that it was extremely difficult to get the car into first, then a little easier into 2nd, etc.  Figured it was due to the cold.(~45 deg.)  I noticed while driving home last night that the clutch felt different.  Pedal still has full travel, but seems to me completely disengaged only about 1" off the floor.Jump in the car this morning (~55deg), fire it up, let it warm up for a min.  Push clutch in, car won't go into any gear.  Nothing grinds as I try to put it in gear, but I can feel the car lurch ever so slightly.  Shifter moves freely left and right, I just can't push it into any gear.A little more background.  The past few months, the clutch pedal would "change feeling".  Sometimes when I would drive, it would be a little more firm than other times.  Sometimes, a little less firm than average.  Now, I'm not talking huge differences that would greatly affect or change the way I would have to drive, but it is definitely noticeable.  Maybe there is a clutch adjustment that needs to be madeCar is a '91 300zx TT, ~100k, daily driver while the weather is nice.</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I jumped in my car last night heading home from work.  Noticed that it was extremely difficult to get the car into first, then a little easier into 2nd, etc.  Figured it was due to the cold.(~45 deg.)  I noticed while driving home last night that the clutch felt different.  Pedal still has full travel, but seems to me completely disengaged only about 1" off the floor.<p/>Jump in the car this morning (~55deg), fire it up, let it warm up for a min.  Push clutch in, car won't go into any gear.  Nothing grinds as I try to put it in gear, but I can feel the car lurch ever so slightly.  Shifter moves freely left and right, I just can't push it into any gear.<p/>A little more background.  The past few months, the clutch pedal would "change feeling".  Sometimes when I would drive, it would be a little more firm than other times.  Sometimes, a little less firm than average.  Now, I'm not talking huge differences that would greatly affect or change the way I would have to drive, but it is definitely noticeable.  Maybe there is a clutch adjustment that needs to be made?<p/>Car is a '91 300zx TT, ~100k, daily driver while the weather is nice. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>w8lifter21</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-31T05:50:42-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>5</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>please help!</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=455906</link> 
  <description>hi. i have a 1984 series 1 nissan gazelle. non-turbo import. 2.0ltri am trying to find what kind of differential they ran. (it does not have independant rear suspension.) i cant get a straight answer from mechanics(cause i cant drive the car to them) and cant find those specs anywhere. please help.</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ hi. i have a 1984 series 1 nissan gazelle. non-turbo import. 2.0ltr<br/>i am trying to find what kind of differential they ran. (it does not have independant rear suspension.) i cant get a straight answer from mechanics(cause i cant drive the car to them) and cant find those specs anywhere. please help. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>gazelle drifter</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-13T04:25:13-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>300zx Clutch stuck to the floor!!</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=455742</link> 
  <description>I have a 90 300zx na. about 2 days ago, i was driving on the highway, speeding as usual, when my clutch dropped out from under my foot and stayed on the floor. I yanked it out of gear and stoped and had it towed home. I noticed previously that i was leaking clutch fluid so i replaced the master cylinder. Then i noticed the slave leaking so i proceeded to remove it. While i was under the car i noticed that the withdrawal lever was dangling infront of the slave.  thinking back i bottomed out exiting a parking garage and i believe that may have been the cause. Im hoping to be able replace just the parts that are broken and not the entire tranny. any i deas</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I have a 90 300zx na. about 2 days ago, i was driving on the highway, speeding as usual, when my clutch dropped out from under my foot and stayed on the floor. I yanked it out of gear and stoped and had it towed home. I noticed previously that i was leaking clutch fluid so i replaced the master cylinder. Then i noticed the slave leaking so i proceeded to remove it. While i was under the car i noticed that the withdrawal lever was dangling infront of the slave.  thinking back i bottomed out exiting a parking garage and i believe that may have been the cause. Im hoping to be able replace just the parts that are broken and not the entire tranny. any i deas?? ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>perriman101</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-15T15:11:14-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Help..Hesitation..low oil pressure..whining sound</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=455422</link> 
  <description>Hey guys. I just bought a 1996 300zx for $1000 but it has some problems. The oil pressure gauge will show around 30 pounds of pressure at the most and thats when im going about 75 mph. It takes about 5 seconds for the car to speed up with my foot all the way down on the gas at stops. And it makes this loud whining/whirring noise. The gas light comes on when there is a quarter of a tank still. If someone could point me in the right direction to these problems it would be greatly appreciated. also the car runs fine and idles fun. And the guy I bought the car from said the compression could be low because it needs an oil pump. And i also heard that an oil pump may whine when it starts to go badThanks Blake</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ Hey guys. I just bought a 1996 300zx for $1000 but it has some problems. The oil pressure gauge will show around 30 pounds of pressure at the most and thats when im going about 75 mph. It takes about 5 seconds for the car to speed up with my foot all the way down on the gas at stops. And it makes this loud whining/whirring noise. The gas light comes on when there is a quarter of a tank still. If someone could point me in the right direction to these problems it would be greatly appreciated. also the car runs fine and idles fun. And the guy I bought the car from said the compression could be low because it needs an oil pump. And i also heard that an oil pump may whine when it starts to go bad?<br/>Thanks Blake ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>moblakeman</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-10T13:40:50-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>240sx smoking...</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=455399</link> 
  <description>1991 240sx with 175,xxx kade. the car runs really fantastic. have 170 compression on all 4 cylinders. only problem is, is that the car smokes when i accelerate from a stop. and then goes away. i dont think its coolant even though the smoke is white. it smells more gaseous than sweet, but everyonce in awhile it smells like....burnt oil maybe not sure the smell. but burnt oil has a blueish tint this is just straight white. I did remove my catalytic converter, so maybe its condensation building up in the catalytic converter casing (i just gutted the cat) and the reason it smells gaseous cus its not burning the extra since there is no more cat i checked my coolant there is no oil in it and it doesnt bubble. i changed my oil there was no coolant in it. just a nice brown....so any ideas i do have a full 3inch catback exhaust. and its not baffeled. i know that having to big exhaust can burn up the valve seals(i think i heard that or something with the valves). maybe thats lettin oil in any ways ne ideas or if u need me to clarify anything else let me know TIA  </description> 
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  <![CDATA[ 1991 240sx with 175,xxx kade. <p/>the car runs really fantastic. have 170 compression on all 4 cylinders. only problem is, is that the car smokes when i accelerate from a stop. and then goes away. i dont think its coolant even though the smoke is white. it smells more gaseous than sweet, but everyonce in awhile it smells like....burnt oil? maybe? not sure the smell. but burnt oil has a blueish tint this is just straight white. I did remove my catalytic converter, so maybe its condensation building up in the catalytic converter casing? (i just gutted the cat) and the reason it smells gaseous cus its not burning the extra since there is no more cat? i checked my coolant there is no oil in it and it doesnt bubble. i changed my oil there was no coolant in it. just a nice brown....so any ideas? i do have a full 3inch catback exhaust. and its not baffeled. i know that having to big exhaust can burn up the valve seals(i think i heard that or something with the valves). maybe thats lettin oil in? any ways ne ideas or if u need me to clarify anything else let me know <p/>TIA <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/Noah/1thumb.gif" BORDER="0"/>  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>bonestock240sx</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-10T11:56:36-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>PLEASE HELP...hesitation..low compression and loud whining noise</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=455376</link> 
  <description>Hey guys. I just bought a 1996 300zx for $1000 but it has some problems. The oil pressure gauge will show around 30 pounds of pressure at the most and thats when im going about 75 mph. It takes about 5 seconds for the car to speed up with my foot all the way down on the gas at stops. And it makes this loud whining/whirring noise. The  gas light comes on when there is a quarter of a tank still. If someone could point me in the right direction to these problems it would be greatly appreciated. also the car runs fine and idles fun. And the guy I bought the car from said the compression could be low because it needs an oil pump. And i also heard that an oil pump may whine when it starts to go badThanks BlakeModified by moblakeman at 1:17 PM 10/10/2009
Modified by moblakeman at 1:22 PM 10/10/2009</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ Hey guys. I just bought a 1996 300zx for $1000 but it has some problems. The oil pressure gauge will show around 30 pounds of pressure at the most and thats when im going about 75 mph. It takes about 5 seconds for the car to speed up with my foot all the way down on the gas at stops. And it makes this loud whining/whirring noise. The  gas light comes on when there is a quarter of a tank still. If someone could point me in the right direction to these problems it would be greatly appreciated. also the car runs fine and idles fun. And the guy I bought the car from said the compression could be low because it needs an oil pump. And i also heard that an oil pump may whine when it starts to go bad?<br/>Thanks Blake<p/><br/><i>Modified by moblakeman at 1:17 PM 10/10/2009</i><BR/><BR/>
<i>Modified by moblakeman at 1:22 PM 10/10/2009</i> ]]> 
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  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>moblakeman</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-10T13:51:16-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
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  <title>Sentra evap question</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=455320</link> 
  <description>I recently bought a 1997 sentra that had a check engine light on.  The car is showing a few codes related to the evap system p0440 p0443 p0446.  And also a few other codes p1105 p1110 p1441.  I have been searching online and have been testing solenoids on the car related to the evap system.  Does anyone have any other info they could share  And are the last 3 codes caused by the the evap system or are they unrelated.  Thanks in advance</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I recently bought a 1997 sentra that had a check engine light on.  The car is showing a few codes related to the evap system p0440 p0443 p0446.  And also a few other codes p1105 p1110 p1441.  I have been searching online and have been testing solenoids on the car related to the evap system.  Does anyone have any other info they could share?  And are the last 3 codes caused by the the evap system or are they unrelated.  Thanks in advance ]]> 
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  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>hoppins10</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-09T19:49:20-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
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  <title>A/C condenser causing overheating</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=455261</link> 
  <description>I have a 1989 coupe with silvia front end and a sr20det swap, the condenser sits between intercooler and radiator, is there any relocation kits or was to move it, or a way to keep it there and fix the problem. its hot here in GA. and the car starts to run really hot when i run the ac if im not on the highway and even then its still too hot for comfort.(me and the car running temp) lol. there seems just to be to much heat bundled in one area. </description> 
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  <![CDATA[ I have a 1989 coupe with silvia front end and a sr20det swap, the condenser sits between intercooler and radiator, is there any relocation kits or was to move it, or a way to keep it there and fix the problem. its hot here in GA. and the car starts to run really hot when i run the ac if im not on the highway and even then its still too hot for comfort.(me and the car running temp) lol. there seems just to be to much heat bundled in one area.<br/>  ]]> 
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  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>95nismoSX</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-10T15:17:38-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>6</slash:comments> 
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  <title>1992 maxima power steering pump</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=454968</link> 
  <description>is there a thread to show how to take off the power steering pump on a 1992 maximaneed help,please</description> 
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  <![CDATA[ is there a thread to show how to take off the power steering pump on a 1992 maxima?need help,please?? ]]> 
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  <category>Nissan Online Mechanic</category>
  <dc:creator>deon623</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-10-08T07:09:23-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
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