Nissan Forums / Infiniti Forums - NICOclub: KA24ET / KA24DET Forum

New stock motor question

TJcars2 — 2009-11-21T21:52:11-08:00

I'm buying a new motor cause I don't wanna rebuild the one I have.

If it's all factory specs how much power can i reliably make with a good tune.

I know the factory motors come with forged cranks and (rods?) but the pistons aren't forged.

Also, when I get the motor, aside from the break-in, is there anything I should do or check?

Researching new turbo options

TJG — 2009-11-22T12:05:50-08:00

hey guys, now that the drift season in WA is over. im looking to make some changes to my setup for 2010. the reason being is that ever since my kat was tuned, i wasnt happy with the results because i feel like its not making as much hp as it should.

i have the ams rebuild kit, and in addition to that i had the block bored .020 over, o-ringed block, and everything was professionally balanced. i also have the JGS starter kit with the turbonetics t3/t4 .63 turbo that used to be included in the kit. for fuel i have 740cc injectors, fpr, walbro, and its professionally dyno tuned with nistune. im also running 104 octane unleaded racegas.

me and my dad put this setup together looking to make at least 425rwhp at whatever boost level because we overbuilt it on purpose, JGS website says that 450rwhp is possible so we didnt think our estimate was bad at all.

now heres the thing, it only made 314whp at 17psi. the person who tuned it is a very respected tuner and i trusted what he told me, at first, but i cant help but think there is more there. he said it started choking the turbo at 17psi, and when he turned it up to 19 there was only a 10hp increase so he said it was just blowing hot air at that point and not being efficient, so he kept it at 17.

it worked well for this drift season, but im looking to upgrade for next year. i want to make at least an honest 400whp, and id like to spool quicker as well. i know good s***s expensive and i do not have any issues spending good money on good parts, if thats what it takes.

i have been looking at the gt3076r and have heard some good things about it, but there is also alot of talk about the borg warner stuff now. also, i feel like this journal bearing turbonetics spools too slow, i need something thats going to pick it up quicker because some of the tracks i do have tight sections.

anyways, sorry for the wall of text but any help would be great. i have a basic knowledge of turbos and stuff, but some of you guys are experts so i figured it be best to ask here. if you need to know anything else about my setup let me know. -Tyler

Fuel System GODS Check In

SiDwAyZ240 — 2009-11-22T08:56:23-08:00

I got another one for my KA-T heroes. WD, Neverlift, 480sx RIP Please Help

I have a question about some injectors that I can't find any info. They are Denso, supposed to be 550cc but I can't find any info when I do a product number search on their website (195500-2240). Just want to know if I can use them in a stock de fuel rail without any issues; what kind of pigtail I need; and any other useful info.
[IMG][/IMG]
I also have some RC 370cc top feed injectors that came with my kit, but it didn't come with a fuel rail. I bought a jgy fuel rail but the RC's don't fit. Can someone please explain the difference in top and side feed injector sizing. Just want to give my baby some fire water to drink!

KA -T ing my 240

skuurtin s13 — 2009-11-20T12:59:31-08:00

ok so i have a 91 hatch with the ka24de soon to be adding a turbo, no im not going for outragous amounts of power/boost just a little bit. my plans are just getting

t25 turbo
manifold
turbo down pipe
plus whatever you guys think i need

im pretty much stuck on the t25 so dont come in here saying its too small and i wont get 400whp out of it or saying go t3/t4. i want just a simple turbo to run around 7 psi and to make me happy lol

i guess im asking what else i would need for this setup and where to get parts cheap. also i know i should run an intercooler even if its a sidemount but im hearing i dont have to. if its a you dont HAVE to case please dont say yah but its good to have.

questions about tuning as well, since im running the lowest of the low ive hear i dont absolutely need a tune unless im planning on going over 12psi or so which im NOT

so any advice/help would be greatly apprecited thanks

Articles to read: internal vs. external wastegates and choosing a turbo manifold

MarkEmark — 2009-11-21T18:36:17-08:00

Hey guys,

I hope this isn't coming off as a shameless plug (because it essentially is), but I've been a member of the NICO forums for a long while (7+ years), so I feel like I've paid my dues enough to plug my articles (if any moderator disagrees, feel free to delete this post). I'll be posting on here periodically with links to articles I have written on turbocharging in general (I myself have a smog-legal KA-T with 343 rwhp, so for those of you who don't know me, I've been there and done that!).

I think the articles are really informative and are a great place to start if you're new to turbocharging, and now when anyone searches on the KA-T forum about choosing a manifold or wastegate, this post will come up with informative links that will hopefully answer questions that would otherwise become new posts.

Anyway, here are the links. And again, if you disagree with anything or think something's just plain wrong (I'm writing my articles based on knowledge I've picked up along the way, so some of the stuff might be wrong or contentious, and of course I make plenty of mistakes).

Article on internal v. external wastegates:

http://www.examiner.com/x-2621...snail

Article on choosing a manifold (log style vs. tubular)

http://www.examiner.com/x-2621...of-II

Cast Vs Forged Pistons. Piston Basics

240dx — 2009-11-17T22:57:05-08:00

I know it's a lot to read, but it's worth it.

"CAST AND FORGED PISTONS
The majority of original equipment and aftermarket pistons are manufactured through casting. The technical description is 'gravity die casting'. However for the sake of simplicity, a cast piston is manufactured by pouring molten aluminium/silicon alloy into a mold. Forged pistons differ fundamentally in manufacturing and inherent character. As opposed to casting, the forging process basically takes a lump of billet alloy and stamps the shape of the piston from a die. Of course, both manufacturing procedures are a lot more complex and intensive that this simple analysis, but you get the broad picture.

Casting and forging results in two different types of piston. A die for forged piston must be designed so it can easily be removed and, as a result, the forged blank (or unfinished piston) has a relative simple shape. Casting can achieve a more complex blank and, therefore, facilitate lightweight construction. Also, due to relative manufacturing procedures, forged pistons tend to be more expensive than cast items and forged 4.9 and 5.0 litre Holden V8 pistons have been traditionally scarce, in terms of availability. Although 5.7 litre Holden Chev units ca be sourced as off-the-shelf product, you may need to have suitable 304/308 forged pistons custom made, with a tidy price to match.

CAST PISTON MATERIALS
No matter which piston you use, and no matter which engine a piston goes into they are all made from a combination of both aluminium and silicon. It is the amount of silicon though, which determines the pistons overall strength verses wear resistance properties. Silicon also controls the rate of expansion of the piston as the material becomes hotter (the less expansion then better!). Silicon content also markedly affects actual material hardness. More Silicon makes the piston much easier to machine-in the manufacturing phase. There are traces of many other metals in cast pistons, including copper, nickel, manganese and magnesium, all of these adding somewhat to the overall behaviour and strength of the piston.

CAST VERSES FORGED
This is an age-old problem for engine designers. At what sort of power level is it necessary to change from a conventional cast Eutectic/Hypereutectic piston to a forged item? According to ACL's chief piston engineer, the only real disadvantage of a cast piston (in high output situations) is in the case of a piston failure, a cast items is more likely to shatter and damage the engine, as a whole, more than a forged piston.

A big advantage with forged pistons is they generally result in a more ductile material, with the effect being the piston can take a higher level of detonation before failing. As far as I am concerned, this is not such a huge bonus as you engine should be tuned not to detonate in the first place. In extremely high rpm/high horsepower applications, the great strength of the forged piston can add reliability, with ACL recommending they be used once power levels rise past about 80hp per litre of engine capacity. This gives us around 450hp in a 5-litre Commodore before even thinking of changing to a forged piston."

Gladman Performance SOHC turbo manifold - any good

AZ89two4Tsx — 2009-11-20T17:06:46-08:00

I've seen this manifold on ebaymotors for a while and was wondering if it's any good.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors..._1165

It actually looks decent from what I can see but wanted to get some opinions before I bite the bullet and get it. Anyone on here have one? It looks pretty well made from what I can see and the price is good too.

Also, have any other suggestions for SOHC turbo manifolds? The only other ones I know of are the JGS and CX racing. And I can't weld, so a DIY is out of the question.

Help me!

New issue. smooth in boost at first, then later on sputtery/misfires...;

zerepdivad — 2009-11-21T22:17:27-08:00

Ok you might have seen my last thread where i was having some boost leak issues and such. WEll now i got all of that taken car of * i think so at least *

I'm smooth in boost once again and it pulls as it should and once i removed the egr, and fixed a lot of vacuum leaks and got rid of unneeded lines i went from 9 psi to 11. So that was kind of a plus i suppose.

Here's the issue though. Upon start up in the mornings the car is smooth and is smooth in boost. But after driving for about 20 minutes or so if i get on it it gets real sputtery/ misfires. I'm thinking it may be an issue with possibly my coil? It maybe is getting too hot after driving for a while.

Because when i boost leak test after driving it for a while it holds pressure up to like 20 psi so i know it's not a leak in my piping. And it's just plain odd that its fine upon start up but once it's been running a while it breaks up under boost. That make any sense to anyone out there? Or have you possibly had a similar issue? This one kind of confuses me a bit honestly.
any help or suggestions is appreciated.

ka-t FINALLY woohoo

Drifticidal_Rob — 2009-11-17T16:30:49-08:00

So, after a lot more work than I expected, my ka24de is boosted. Not the best setup, but probably not the worst. Got about $500 into it. Rebuilt t25 from sr20, 370cc injectors, ebay mani, stock sr sidemount, sr down pipe, n60 maf, and an emance tune. which i will never deal with emance again since I purchased the data cable also and never received and jason wont send it. well anyways it runs awesome except every once in awhile it will idle a little funny ( any advice on this would be great) It will idle high then almost die, but not always. Other than that issue it runs great...can't wait to take it to an auto x or drift event. Also lookin for a fmic setup if anybodies selling one

Modified by Drifticidal_Rob at 11:20 PM 11/16/2009

Where to buy a decent KA24DE at

Skim302 — 2009-11-17T22:01:17-08:00

I have been looking around and found a 240sx that I am very interested in. It has around 100,000 miles on it but I was going to put a turbo on it. I don't want to put that power on a engine that won't handle it. I have looked around but haven't found anything yet. Anyone have a good site that I can buy a decent engine that will handle a turbo at?

Starting a turbo parts list

93sivliaUsdm — 2009-11-19T01:41:48-08:00

i put together a parts list and i just wanted some confirmation on that i had all the needed parts to boost my 240

1. JGS turbo manifold jgsturbo.com 413$

2. God speed T3 turbo- http://www.drivenbystyle.com/g....html
300$

3. JGS 4 bold down pipe jgsturbo.com 225$

4. Ebay intercooler and piping- ebay.com 200$

5. HKS SSQV- http://www.importpartspro.com/hksssbloffva.html 215$

6. 550cc fuel injectors- $396- http://www.deatschwerks.com/ca...d=109

7. Apexi S-AFC Neo -$350 http://www.maperformance.com/apexi-s-afc-neo.html

8. JGS T3 Oil Line Kit- 77$-jgsturbo.com

9. NGK BKR7E- 5$

10. Z32 MAF - $100ish

11. WALBRO 255 Pump � 100$ http://www.frsport.com/Walbro-....html

12. JGS 50mm wastegate- 375$ jgsturbo.com
Price total- 2700ish$

Modified by 93sivliaUsdm at 6:44 PM 11/15/2009

Modified by 93sivliaUsdm at 8:38 PM 11/15/2009

Im getting ready for ka-t but....

youngs13lover — 2009-11-15T12:10:35-08:00

yo im so confused..im trying to figure out everything i possibly would need to do a slight ka-t build..things i have or am gonna get..

Stock Ka24de 183-185 on all cylinders
Full T25 Turbo setup..piping..intercooler..down pipe all that
Greddy Emanage(it only has connector one but i have no clue wat thats for i bought it cause everyone says its good to use and some of the ka-t guys in my car club have it..my friend told me that the emanage is good if i have the harness for timing and fuel..is that all in connector 1)??
370cc Injectors in ka rail
Apexi N1 3in Exhaust
Ebay Turbo Timer
Aem Uego Wideband
Boost gauge/oil pressure gauge/oil temp gauge

wat else do i need

Breaking in for a turbo...without it

YoungS13Build — 2009-11-12T06:27:05-08:00

okay im rebuilding my ka24de with eagle rods, .020over JE 9.0:1 pistons, and BC v2 cams. i was stuck with the question, "can i build the engine (with cams) and still break in the motor without the turbo setup on it?" if i was to do so would i be sacrificing an entire build or what. any input would be great help, cause i know im not the only guy that builds his motor but doesnt have the cash for that shiney hair dryer yet.

(i am having a pro build the bottom end due to the fact i want it right the first time....he's buildin my bud's srt4 right now)

First KA-T project, need insight

KA24DE-T FTW — 2009-11-11T19:38:38-08:00

well, i am in the process of going KA-T. my main reason for this is for experience. i am building a JGS style log manifold, that will be topped with a Mitsubishi TD04 turbo, i will be running an external wastegate off of the log.

fuel management will be provided by a FMU,
im looking for a very responsive setup, running anywhere from 4-7 psi? i dont plan to upgrade this setup anymore than i have to, because i have other plans when this engine goes.
compression was good on all cylinders.

now my questions begin,
1) will the TD04 turbo be too small?
2) also, what ratio should i use for the FMU, 6:1 or 8:1
i will be using stock everything, injectors, new pump was put in maybe 8k ago (b4 i thought of going turbo)

im just looking for some insight, im on a pretty tight budget, and most everything that van be fab'd will be done. also, this is primarily an autox car. but does do some DD,
i just want a lil more go from the motor.

the TD04 turbo i currently have is a TD04HL-13T, but i have access to plenty of other models, like the 15g, 16t, and 18t's.

TURBO PICKING

j_d_240sxpwns — 2009-11-18T14:05:30-08:00

I WANT TO KNOW WAT WOULD BE THE BEST TURBO FOR ME TO GET BECAUSE I WANT TO RUN IN THE MID 20s FOR PSI AND I HAVE A KA24DE MOTOR IN A 1995 240SX HELP ME PLEASE =)

Solenoid actuated Boost Controller

fo0manchu — 2009-11-17T18:33:27-08:00

Just had an idea in making this. I received some pieces for making my h20 injection kit. I got a water solenoid that can also be used for air. Here is the one I got:
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-4-Electr...1f4eb

Anyways, I was thinking about hooking this up to a pressure switch and then using the solenoid to control the air pressure. Any one ever do this? I made the diy ball/spring type one but I don't really like it. It would cost about $40 bucks to make this.

What do you guys think.

Head Gasket

jmoney77 — 2009-11-11T14:43:06-08:00

So I finally finished my build after a very long time, and I started it up and everything is running great except it is leaking oil from the head gasket. So I pulled off the valve cover and cams and retorqued the head studs and put it all back together and it is still leaking. So basically I'm pretty pissed I got a cometic head gasket. Now I need to remove the head, get it decked again, and get a new head gasket. But the only head gaskets I can find are cometic.

Where can I get a cosworth one? I looked like everywhere.
There are a whole bunch for the sr, but that ain't gonna work for me.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Apexi A-VCR

MJSnowman — 2009-11-15T15:46:33-08:00

I have one of these units installed in my car along with the S-AFC and when i bought the car the guy said he lost the boost solenoid before he could install it. The unit is working but only serves as gauges, my question is that can i buy a different boost solenoid to take it's place, or do i have to pay $150 + for a new apexi one

Need advice. first ka-t.

zenkiderek — 2009-11-11T17:11:46-08:00

I am starting my first KA-t set up and have read through the various ka-t n00b threads on here, ka-t, and zilvia.

Trying to decide between a few options.

I know a guy locally who was starting a ka-t swap and ended up going sr. He bought a KADE and started building it (has not been installed). It has:
-Eagle Rods
-Arias Pistons
-BC 264 cams
-exhaust/intake manifolds with a T25
-5 speed tranny (i'm auto and will be going 5 speed)
-ACT stage 3
-OEM gasket kit
-sr injectors
-alternator
-ARP head studs

he wants $2,000.

I would then buy:
-FMIC
-DP
-SAFC II
-Walbro
- Z32 MAF
-tranny swap parts

JGS kit without wastegate (i have one)/turbo
-t28
-Walbro
-safc ii
-z32
-sr injectors
-5 speed swap parts

I am also considering getting the kit and the motor.

I'm having a tough time deciding if I should buy his stuff (minus the T25) or just go with the kit. I have a KADE in my 1995 240sx with 160,XXX mi and has had no issues the 14 months I've owned it. No smoke, no burning oil, no leaks. Timing chain rattles, but that will be replaced if I end up using this motor. Need to compression test it to be safe.

My goals are a safe 250whp. Budget is $3,500 but I would like to go as cheap as SAFELY possible.

Just looking for input from people with more experience than me.

First KA-T, help and advise.

ka24niac — 2009-11-07T12:56:01-08:00

Hello guys, Simple! this is my first KA and I want to go T, Engine is rebuilt, pistons compression around 160 (all 4). stock internals. basically the car is running very good. I been looking around this forum and I think Im in the right place, there is knowledge everywhere.

T25 vs T4/T3??

injectors?? or I keep the stock ones?

fuel pump?

MAF?

O2 wideband??

I dont want to get to crazy, like I said before, "what is what I need (I want to do it the right way) because my goal is get around 250rwhp".

thx guys!

KA-T SAFC2 Settings WANTED! (t25)

2chuki4u — 2009-11-08T20:07:40-08:00

What are your settings?
-Post setup,settings, and degree of timing.

My setup is:
T25
n60 mafs
370cc inj's

i need a base setting tune please! ive looked all over so help if you can!

Finally Finished

Lonismos14 — 2009-11-08T11:04:19-08:00

Well you guys it took me long enough but i finally finished my turbo install. I would like to give thanx to WD Racing and Neverlift you guys helped me out alot and are outstanding. I will be dropping it off at my local muffler shop to get all my piping ran. But my question is this will it hurt my motor if i start it and run it to get the car on/off the lift at there shop. Remember no intercooler piping, no downpipe.

Big Thanx,
Loron

AEM F/IC

Dire91 — 2009-11-05T13:49:35-08:00

I'm looking for anyone that has experience with the AEM F/IC on their KA-T. I have searched and haven't been able to find any reviews or threads on the use of this product. I'm looking into purchasing it in the Spring and need to know how good it is and if it will work for me.

reving problem

chaosli — 2009-11-04T21:20:12-08:00

well first this is my set up as of right now
rebuilt KAe stock spec internals
-stock injecter
-stock MAF
-T04e garret turbo 60trim
-duel n1 isis cat back
-JGS turbo mani
-Tial 34mm WG
-emisson removel (everything except IAC)

is not a complete build but it is as of now and i do have more part to put in

here is the problem if i full thorttle it, the car wont pass 3000 rpm and start spiting fireballs like a bee R limiter

but if i go slow it will do that just fine it'll redline no prob

i doubt the maf will maxout just with this set up

Goin Shoppin'

240dx — 2009-11-04T13:32:00-08:00

My 97 KA is out and I stipped it down. Im doing a budget rebuild on her because some of my piston rings went. I want a reliable engine and maybe 14 psi on a dd.

Here is my plan so far.

Fel Pro Full gasket set ( head gasket be alright ?)
Forged 9:1 JE Pistons + Rings
Recondition Stock rods
Aluglide ACL bearings (good enough for boost?)
Polished Cams + Crank
Recondition Cylinder Walls
All Trans and Oil seals
New valve stem seals
Exedy stage 2 with lightened Fly

Stock Head and Main rods be alright?
320 HP goal

Any other suggestions?
or change something up before I start ordering?

Modified by 240dx at 6:10 PM 11/3/2009

T28 gakets

RideNslidE — 2009-11-04T16:04:20-08:00

does anyone know where to get the T2 flange and dump pipe gaskets ( 5 bolt one) in Colorado. im done with my KAT besides a few things relocate MAF to blow through and gaskets and im moving in a couple weeks so i need em quick

I know sites sell em but im not trying to pay $50 plus ship for 2 gaskets when iv'e only invested 400 in parts for the rest of the stuff. thanks...

Modified by RideNslidE at 4:00 PM 11/4/2009

"budget water injection" diy

neverlift — 2009-11-09T12:28:23-08:00

Simple, budget minded, water injection.

Parts list/Cost:
1. Windshield washer tank. free
2. Windshield washer pump, If one did not come on the tank you use. free
3. Vacuum hose 3' to be safe. free
4. Hobbs pressure switch~normally open~. $33
5. CSI cold start injector. free (may cost you a few at the local pull a part)

6. Relay/fuse/wire/electric tape/zip ties. If you are doing this mod you have this stuff laying around. free
7. Wire cutter/stripper, drill bit(3/4 seemed to work good). again, you have this stuff. free
8. Short piece of 3/4" heater hose. free

Step one is bench testing, on any project possible.

This is a CSI, This particular one has twin misting holes. They are basically an on or off injector. Eliminating the need for a separate solenoid and nozzle.

Installation;

Mounting the CSI.

Remove your cold pipe and drill a hole roughly 6" back from the throttle body. Next step is to take the 3/4" hose and cut a small length just shorter than the thick part of the CSI. Now slide the hose over the CSI. After sliding the hose over the CSI you will have to force the hose and CSI into the hole. It is a VERY tight fit, at this point you could either zip tie it and be done with that part or take a couple metal screws and secure it that way. I have 80 drift miles on the zip ties I used without any issues.
Now put your cold pipe back on and fasten the piping back together.

My CSI installed

Tank mounting;

This is going to be different for most people, I no longer had a stock washer tank, so I asked around and got a free one from my buddies parts Z. If you have or can get a stocker use it and wire in the level sensor. I have my tank mounted in the front passenger side battery area.

Wiring;

Start with figuring out what psi you want the CSI to start squirting and bench set the Hobbs switch. Then wire one side of the Hobbs to a CLEAN chassis ground. Now run the other side off the Hobbs switch to the pump and solenoid (polarity on the solenoid is not important) ground.
Now run the power to everything. Find a 12volt source and run a fuse inline to the pump positive and the solenoid. Try to get as much wiring for the pump and solenoid pig tails as possible, cleans up install. Go ahead and T the Hobbs switch into a manifold source, or you could drill/tap a hole in the charge pipe for a boost source and thread the switch in there.

Water lines:

Self explanatory, run from the pump outlet to the CSI.
like so this.

Dual pumps wired together and the water lines Y'd together

Everything in place

~ disclaimer ~
I am not the first nor did I come up with anything that is not already widely available via the net. I am not responsible for anything you do to your car this is a BASIC guide to get you going into water injection.

WD mentioned the CSI as the misting nozzle/solenoid and it all became clear to me. I went to the junk yard and gathered some hose/a pump/CSI's to play with and tested this on the bench to see for myself. I am nice to the older woman who works there so she hooks me up
It works great. You should test the flow of the CSI you use as they came on many different cars ranging from the 80~90 era, the ones I found the most ready available(easy to pull with only wire cutters 10&12mm wrenches) were from Toyota's. But many cars have them in different flow rates.

Obviously more flow/pressure is going to be better as these are designed to run off fuel rail pressure. The mist is pretty fine IMHO, but I have not had a chance to flow test, or pressure test

This system has tons of improvement room, and can easily be improved, however for 30 dollars out of my pocket to help not blow a stock ka is worth while.

Good luck guys

S-AFC II Deceleration (help)

B-rad Smizzel — 2009-11-01T18:48:34-08:00

i have had my 95 240 for a cupple years now and like everyone else in this world i want that sweet blow off valve sound. i have on their now a turbo xs recirculating bov and i just put on a sard r2d2 open bov. with both bovs every time i build boost then i go stright to nutral the engine bogs and trys to die sometimes it will die. I then bumped up my idle up to a little over 1g to help. Im not using the deceleration air because every time i try to ajust it it runs worse. im no im not the only one with this problem so i was wondering what everyone else did to fix this problem? thanks

clutch

awsomesr20det — 2009-11-12T06:24:42-08:00

So im looking at a few different possibilities on clutchs, new or used, prices and what kinds. Kind of stuck.. give me some input please. What does any think of the xtd stage 3 clutch? I kind of want new just because, but am debating on getting a used act but then i have to get the tob and other tool. what u all think??

injectores de cOmbustible

nissan_slider — 2009-10-31T08:59:06-08:00

I bought these yellow top 04 subaru baja 2.5 turbo side feed injectors. My question are they the same as the sti injectors

Blow off valve at Light Throttle = vacuum leakear

fo0manchu — 2009-11-01T12:00:44-08:00

I just finished my turbo setup on my datsun 510 wagon and have been trying to get all the kinks and quirks out of it. I sealed up all the vacuum leaks with making a boost leak detector.

My air fuel blips really lean on light throttles in any gear. Especially at cruising speeds on the freeways. It goes lean and comes right back. After searching for awhile and messing with the safc, I found that my BOV is not closing fully when the throttle plate opens slightly. This is actually causing unmetered air to be sucked in. (I put some paper close to the opening of the valve to test it, and watched the paper get sucked to the opening as I reved) So I am guessing this is causing my lean spots. Just like a big ol' vacuum leak.

I have a adjustable stock volvo type valve. It stays open at idle, then closes when the vacuum pressure drops enough. I could recirculate it the way it was designed to be, but I like the cool sounds the car makes.

My question is, is this how all stock piston style valves work?
I was thinking about getting a different BOV, but if they all do the same thing then it would be a waste of money.

Weird

surfer240sx — 2009-10-30T14:47:48-08:00

My friend has a 255 and 8-1 fmu setup on his ka-t. he has ran 10 lbs on his t3 63 ar not sure the exact specs on it as it was used... his aem uego is showing 11.6 at wot but at idle its completely lean doesnt even read afrs, any ideas y this is? o and more importanly how the hell is he getting these afrs on that size turbo with the stock 259cc injectors? yes i said it stockers at 10 lbs on t3

KA-T prep

MJSnowman — 2009-11-21T09:17:43-08:00

Hi all i've been lurking on here for a while and just reading up on everything KA-T, but i have a question that i not quite sure on. When i boost the motor should i be worried about things like IACV or EGR or some type of emission or fuel control that can be damaged when i boost? Because of the pressure on any of the sensors or valves. Thanks

Modified by MJSnowman at 12:57 PM 10/29/2009

let's play guess that noise!

EstoMax — 2009-10-29T22:43:55-08:00

hey all,

A couple of months ago i started hearing this strange noise at low revs and periodically at idle. It was especially annoying upon turning off the car. It has gotten louder since then and now is definately noticable at certain rpms.

it sounds like my exhaust is hitting something as it goes with the engine speed and sounds like metal clattering around. I cannot for the life of me figure out where it is coming from though. I know it is definately louder on the exhaust side and towards the back of the engine. I looked under the car and shook everything i saw, but nothing seems to want to clatter like that.

Sooo i took some videos and will share them here:
Here is the vid of the engine, it is not as easy to hear it here because my valvetrain is quite noisy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5esWfqKwa5c
And here it is when i turn off the engine.. that's the most embarrasing part.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y_eXf0VE1KM

I can also hear it pretty consistently if I'm coasting in a high gear around 1500+- rpm

I am starting to think it's my bottom end, but i checked my compression and its damn good at 165 158 160 165. I took off my valve cover as well and cams and valve caps look ok.. nothing loose there. the engine has about 23k miles on it, the valve train has been this noisy since day 1

Cheers for input!
Marko
Wiseco 9:1, Pauter rods, s13 cams

Modified by EstoMax at 9:21 PM 10/28/2009

Compression Test Results

jking240sx — 2009-10-27T14:35:00-08:00

Well i just did a compression test on my KA24E and here are the results.

Cylinder #1= 200 psi
Cylinder #2= 195 psi
Cylinder #3= 195 psi
Cylinder #4= 197 psi

So i little bit about the motor. I swapped the tranny about two months ago and its fine and dandy, but i just swapped the head on my car becasue to valves on the other head popped out on the botom of the head. Not really any smoke came out or anything it just started running like it had a big loss of power. Its getting spark on all spark plugs. I ran this test that my dad said should show something, i would unplugg one plug from the distrubutor cap and if it made the engine start puttin then it works. so i unplugged the second cylinder plug and it didn't change the eninge's running. so i think that it might be compression. maybe a injector is clogged but i will check that out to. but i was thinking about just selling it cause its my daily driver and i need a good motor. and i would just swap another into it. But i Got my license suspend for 3 months so i will just fix it myself. So i need to know what yall think i should check out on the motor or run anymore test or what i need to fix to hve running good again.
Thanx...

CXRacing catback

SloTwoFourOhh — 2009-10-27T16:47:31-08:00

Anyone using it? Found it shipped for 121 on ebay. 3 inch piping, mandrel bend, 4 inch tip.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UM45dsQ4scA

Sounds pretty good. A lot better than the exhaust now thats on my 240. (pacesetter with something clanking around inside). I'm goin turbo so the 3inch mandrel bend is all I need. Thoughts.

okay chain rattle.

Future_gohan — 2009-10-25T18:05:10-08:00

i can hear the chain hit the top plate near the cams, untill it warms up, would it hurt if i took the valve cover off and took that plate off for this winter?

I plan on putting a new timing chain and stuff in this winter but I need to get the next few events out of the way first. would it be safe? I've heard of people doing it before just want to double check.

help! boost or no boost

Fancy_Footwork — 2009-10-25T06:38:50-08:00

I recently compression checked my dohc and found that my 2nd cylinder is pushin only 120psi compared to the other 3 cylinders at 180-190.

Wet test on #2 put it up to 180psi.

So, do I build it and do it right? Or do I boost that bad boy until she blows?

Thoughts?

Megasquirt experience

Nissan409 — 2009-10-29T23:34:00-08:00

Anyone have experience with this program? Ive read some tutorials and such but i was just wondering if anyone knew how to mess with the injectors and to get a decent tune.. I have a 93 s13, KA24de, garret to4e(12psi), v-mount intercooled, walboro 255 fuel pump, felix 860cc injectors. Maybe someone can post up a quick little how-to on the program. The program is, Megatune 2.25 p3.

Any help would be appreciated, my car is running suuuuper rich right now

Update: Currently printed out the whole fuel part of the manual, and im studying it as we type. Im getting most of it and I'm sure if i just take my time and dont rush it should go smoothly.

Modified by Nissan409 at 7:32 PM 10/29/2009

FMU recalibration

Doya — 2009-11-12T08:02:55-08:00

I got a 12:1 vortech FMU I picked up pretty cheap locally and I was wondering if there was any way to recaibrate it to a 6:1.

Anyone got headgasket suggestions det

Patarach — 2009-10-21T12:11:41-08:00

Like the title states I was curious what some of you kadet guys are running for headgaskets. I'm going to do an oem rebuild (+ arp fasteners all around and better HG) on my bench motor soon.

I am probabley going to want something a little thicker just to drop the CR a intsy bit.

I am used to rebuilding engine with oem hg's so I'm pretty unfamiliar with type of material and how much oversized I can actually go.

This motor will probabley not see over 280-300 hp, at maybe 14-15psi~

And i'm at 5200 ft.

BTW. I did search, I probabley could have searched more, but the information I did find here didn't pertain to my q's exactly.

Any help, contribution would be appreciated, thanks

Bad compression cylinder.

240dx — 2009-10-23T13:06:36-08:00

Just did a compression test on my turbod ka
All was good until I hit the third cylinder

1st cylinder: 185psi
2nd cylinder: 185psi
3rd cylinder: 75psi Dry. 155 Wet.
4th cylinder: 170psi

Is it alright to drive like this?
I just put all my money into schooling and dont have any left.
I read spooled's "sobered up" thread and i plan on the same idea.

Will I damage anything in the mean time driving at 11psi?
I suppose i would need to change my oil quite often with all the fuel leaking through.

Any additional thoughts?

My SOHC Turbo Build

RUHNAy — 2009-11-21T12:38:52-08:00

I just did my compression results in i read that the dohc comp # need to be over 155 but is it the same for the sohc???????? Results=150 149 150 147 wat do u guys think turbo or rebuild?

What do you feed your turbo

talon96 — 2009-10-21T11:14:33-08:00

I found this interesting.

Holset HX35W, Borg Warner s362, or Borg Warner S372

240sxvaj — 2009-11-13T15:12:41-08:00

Seen the bullseye done damage so have the Holset but then which one would you prefer on your KA?

Tell me why you chose the turbo you would prefer?

I have a couple kweeztions!!

DaniMike — 2009-10-19T11:19:23-08:00

Okay, hi! I have a 1993 240sx and I just pulled the motor. I plan on placing in a rebuilt S14 motor. I know to swap out the dizzy and atleast the lower part of the intake manifold.

This is where I get confused as to this being the first time this deep into an engine. The engine has been ran for about 1k miles and I just re-sealed the oil pan so I know it runs. It has been out of a car for several months but is squeaky-clean. I need to try and get it to TDC in order to put my S13 dizzy in for the timing. Is it okay to go ahead and rotate the crank or should I get some more oil in it first? I am concerned about F-ing things up.

Now the other part. The intake manifold. The S14 manifold already has the EGR stuff deleted. SO, all I has to do is unbolt the lower half off my S13 and bolt it to the S14 upper mani? Anything tricky or special I have to do? I have looked online for answers but nothing is specific enough. They all just say that it works and the S14 top mani is better due to no butterflies or something of the sort.

Is there anyone who can confirm and/or tell me how to do this correctly? I do plan on turboing this engine. The S14 engine is already tapped and set for oil and I already have a T2 manifold.

Thanks and any help/information is much appreciated!

Michael

oil squirtrs

nissan_slider — 2009-10-18T16:35:02-08:00

Hey, I was wondering if i eliminated my oil squirters, would i run into any crazy problems. I have done this on honda engines, would it be the same on the ka to cut down on mass the rotating assembly has on it.

And so yet again, I emerge from obscurity with a new turbo website! Check it out

MarkEmark — 2009-10-29T16:46:09-08:00

[if you don't want to read my longwindedness nor scroll all the way down, here's the website:

http://www.examiner.com/x-2621...miner]

Hey guys,

Hope everyone's been doing well in KA-T land. It's been a while. In fact that last time I posted on here was over a year ago, when I was sharing my other new website, which documented my KA-T build (http://ka24det.synthasite.com).

Anyway, I recently moved to Chapel Hill, NC to live with my bro, who's in grad school at UNC. (By the way, are there any members living in the Raleigh/Durham/CH area?)The only job I've been able to get so far was pretty much created for me by my well-to-do friend, so I'm very fortunate for that. I'm just doing part-time independent research on various business venture ideas in Chapel Hill, and so I've had a lot of time on my hands.

Being that I graduated with an English degree and would love to get my writing published in any way I can (I've written a few short stories if anyone's REALLY bored haha!), I applied for a "job" at http://www.examiner.com, to be the Raleigh Tuner Car Examiner. So after a pretty lengthy, writing-intensive application process, I got the job of reporting on the Raleigh tuner car scene (essentially, the import scene). Now the reason I put "job" in quotation marks is because how much I'm payed by the Examiner is based on how many people view my page...and I get less than 1 cent per visitor. Needless to say, I had my first article published on Monday, and I've only earned $0.91 so far haha. I wasn't expecting much, because they don't tell you how much you'll get paid first starting out, which means it can't be good, but I figured I'd earn at least a couple bucks a week for my efforts!

Anyway, I have no idea how to increase the traffic to my website, and unfortunately, to have any exposure, I need page views--the more views, the more often it'll come up in searches, which will again lead to more page views. The page's popularity should continue to grow itself once it gets to a level of good exposure, but it's nowhere near there yet!

And that's where you guys come in! My first article describes what turbocharging is in broad, general terms, and why it's so popular (I also take a stab at Ford hehe). I assumed an audience decidedly less knowledgeable than the kind you'd find on this forum, not wanting to scare people away who are casually interested in the topic but then get frustrated with mechanical jargon. Of course sometimes it's just impossible to get around all of these engine terms.

My second article starts getting more specific, and it's about the essential components of ANY turbo kit (assuming a 4 cylinder engine). The prices reflect new parts, many of them from Nico's advertisers. My forthcoming articles will describe the parts on the list in far more detail. For my next one, I'm going to write about choosing the right turbo.

Anyway, both articles are good information for KA-T n00bs. Pretty much everything I've written so far has been from my memory, and my memory has been shaped within the hallowed halls of this KA-T forum. But my memory isn't exactly sparkling clear, so I may have left stuff off the list or made a mistake here or there, so if you find one, PLEASE let me know so I can correct it!

Also, feel free to comment on more than just the technical details of the articles, such as my writing style, grammar, etc.

Anyways, here it is, and thanks for checking it out!

http://www.examiner.com/x-2621...miner

help

240joe23 — 2009-10-18T23:29:12-08:00

just got into the 240 scene. i was with hondas for a while... but i picked up a 92 240 ka24det.. with a garret t25 and tuned with emance.. i know basicaly nothing about these and it currently wont start. we had it running fine but i guess my buddy said it had a vaccum leak. the guy before me (a close friend) put a new turbo on and seals and we got it running fine. then the other day he went to start it and wont fire? now i picked it up and its sitting in my driveway. any suggestions as to why it would do that? thanks for any help..

CX racing turbo kit

240_dude — 2009-10-19T09:35:43-08:00

Well guys i did some research on nico and most people commented the cx racing turbo kits are as good as wat u pay for. But their is something i dont understand. Lets say i keep the ebay turbo for a while unitl i can get some money to buy a bigger turbo, if i run the ebay turbo at 8 psi am i more than likely to have trouble? Because people say they had trouble with it and i thought that of course if they ran a pos turbo at high psi it would.

My KAT video

Patarach — 2009-10-29T22:32:13-08:00

This is a video of me doing a few drivebys on the street with my Kat, specs are

stock ka
t3 60 trim 7psi
open dump on 38mm WG. and 3" test pipe
3" straight pipe exhaust
turbo xs atmospheric bov

I want everyone to know that I did not exceed the posted speed limit and I watched very closely for pedestrians.

As well as once I begin to drive this car on the streets around town I will install a cat and recirculate the WG.

This video is strictly a test to ensure running condition.

Let me know what you guys think, i think the 3" straight with the open wg sounds

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EF3ScwI_W7w

Edit: I probably should have posted this in multimedia, my bad.

Modified by Patarach at 3:37 PM 10/15/2009

Need help with goals

RUHNAy — 2009-10-27T11:21:37-08:00

hi guys ive bin reading alot around the ka-t forum im ruhnay i have an immaculate 1989 nissan 240 sohc the car is by far cleaner then a babys bottom 90k miles interior is superb the dash is cracked but no bigggie i recently decided i wana got turbo my budget is pretty big i have around 4 grand laying around and i wana get about 250-300hp i will be doing the compression test this weekend to see weather if i haveto do a rebuild but incase i do can u guys suggest a rebuild kit that you guys have bin satisfied with and a turbo kit aswell again one that you guys think will be top notch for buck hehe well heres my baby thx for the feedback in advance

[IMG][/IMG]

heres a set of sportsmaxx rims i picked up off ebay 17x8 front 17x9 back

[IMG][/IMG]

and a unkown name body kit bought it off craigslist for 300 bucks

[IMG][/IMG]

would love to hear your feedback on my project just to get a general idea of what i should do and how much will i spend i plan on painting the car with my dad after turbo or build

again thx in advance !

@@@@@@what else do i need to do a ka24det@@@@@@@

youngs13lover — 2009-10-15T13:27:11-08:00

so yea im thinking of going turbo and my boy is selling me his turbo kit cause he's having a baby and already sold his car so i get his kit..im only 16 and i sold my other motor and getting a completely stock ka24de...

The kit comes with all of this...I just need to know what else i need besides a boost gauge and a turbo timer

- Apexi SAFC II with harness.
- Bottom Mount Turbo Manifold.
- HKS SSQV BOV.
- SR20DET T25 turbo, with steel braided lines.
- SR20DET 370cc inj. with fuel rail.
- FMIC Kit, fit for ka24de. 3in Core.
- Elbow & Downpipe, with wideband bung

is there anything else i need???

Vaccum lines & JGS Vacuum Block

supra33202 — 2009-10-19T11:12:28-08:00

My setup:

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=446516

Can anyone show me what vacuum lines should be connected to the JGS Vacuum Block? Pictures will be highly appreciated.

Thanks!

Anyone use AEM EMS

sorrowfulkiller — 2009-11-01T17:54:06-08:00

Next Spring I'm buying a s13 for a summer dd/weekend car and I'm planning a full rebuild + suspension + turbo as soon as I get the car. I just wanted to know if anyone on here was running an AEM EMS and what problems (if any) you had with it. I understand the crank sensor is touchy in the early models... has that since been fixed? Do you need to buy a cas wheel with the new ones?

Tuning

wrestlrjared — 2009-10-14T06:42:53-08:00

Looking to go kat, What are you guys using for tuning?

kade future kade-t help

vto — 2009-10-15T19:53:12-08:00

Ok guys, yes I am a noob so try and work with me please. I have a kade will be making turbo in the future but first I need to rebuild it to make sure it is strong enough and the parts are on point before the turbo. I do not know I to take to machine shop and have it cut and all that, I need some help finding good internals, pistons, cranck, all that mess, if anyone can point this new guy in the right direction it will be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.

Haltech Patch Harness for KA Released!

johngriff — 2009-10-12T11:49:51-08:00

Yes Sir.

Released today.

Come and get it. This took quite a bit of work. This is for the Platinum 1000 and 2000 ecus only. This is a RPSport only setup, we will be solely responsible for base maps and Tech support.

Find it here:

http://www.rpsport.net/haltech/36666/

and enjoy!

John

profec b spec 2 question

hpmachine — 2009-10-10T17:52:46-08:00

I ran all the vac lines for my EBC. I used the NC and COM ports and I'm pretty sure I did everything right. Do you just leave the NO port on the solonoid unplugged/open? O I'm using an external WG. My vac lines look like this LOL. One other thing, like so many of us, the Tial gate that I'm using is flipped upside down. So the 'top' port is actually on the bottom. Right?

Modified by hpmachine at 5:58 PM 10/10/2009

Modified by hpmachine at 6:09 PM 10/10/2009

put it urself or get done by a shop

ogkush — 2009-10-12T12:09:53-08:00

is a turbo kit easy enough to install urself, or is it better off taking it to a shop?

ECU making loud buzzing noise

Doya — 2009-10-19T22:17:53-08:00

So the other day I was getting my car pulled to a friends house to have him weld me a down pipe, and half way there, me ECU started making a loud buzzing noise. It's only when I turn the key all the way forward. I haven't tried to start my car yet because I don't know if I should. Does anyone know what the problem could be?

Turbo Management

240TKE128 — 2009-10-05T18:06:43-08:00

So i currently have a 90 sohc, working on turbo setup, im wanting to push between 350 and 400 whp and i cant seem to find a decent management system are there any recomendations?

Need some advice...

Datsun84Z — 2009-10-09T21:54:17-08:00

Hey everyone,

I am currently working on a KA-T 95 240SX. After three years of being boosted, the head gasket finally decided to blow, causing oil to mix with the coolant. I am wanting to put in a cometic gasket and arp head studs. Was just curious of a reliable and reputable place to buy them at a decent price.

Thanks again,

Vincent.

t3/t4 hybrid turbo for drift/autox

cloud3648 — 2009-10-09T10:33:44-08:00

would a t3/t4 hybrid turbo for a ka24de be good for drift/autox? also i know that t3/t4s are cheap so would a ebay kit be okay for those kinda turbos?

need advice on this engine before I buy

explicit_03 — 2009-10-04T06:37:23-08:00

I found this 240 I am thinking of buying. Heres the listing: http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/1372436681.html

The thing that bothers me,might not be a big deal, in the listing it says that it cuts out at high rpm and idels funny. My question is it a big deal or is it an easy fix. Take a look at the listing its got pics of the set up and what he says is wrong with it and let me knw what you guys think. Thanks guys.

stock sr20 turbo

slowmofive0 — 2009-10-02T17:24:57-08:00

i was reading and searching .... i want to know if i can put the sr20 stock turbo on my ka24de and what kinda manifold i would need... any help thanks guys.

motor mount poll

mksue3240sx — 2009-10-13T08:54:08-08:00

Vote for your favorite motor mount and comment on why you think it is best.

going kat not sure of what line goes where

neverlift — 2009-10-15T08:11:32-08:00

the bov line goes to manifold source
the wastegate goes to the charge pipe along with any mbc you may have
the boost gauge goes to the intake manifold

valve cover breather no longer goes to the charge pipe(old intake pipe that NEVER SAW PRESSURE), or your new turbo will smoke

Hey WD

Lonismos14 — 2009-09-30T14:11:37-08:00

I finish the wiring, and the turbo mounting and stuff. All i got left is the vaccuum lines any advice how to plug in the MBC,Blowoff valve,and the Boost gauge. Thanx man And o yea you know to much....lmao Just jokin

What should i do Turbo, Supercharge, Remote Turbo (CALI) help!

rm125RideR — 2009-10-09T21:49:16-08:00

Im Going to be Getting a 240 soon (s14) and i want to mod the ka24de. I live in California so the SR20det will not be an opotion for me. Although turbo is illegal id love to have it. but its pretty obviouse when a car is running boost, EX: sound, intercooler, the turbo itself.

Iv been looking at remote mount turbo, sounds like a good plan but i feel like a police officer could find it. just checking my exhaust. so...

The supercharger looks good to me (the direct manifold mount) because it looks like nothing is aftermarket, no intercoolers or flashy color's. Ill have access to a computer guided cutting machine too for the adapter plate

-my queston is because you replace the lower intake manifold what do you do with all those Emission contol parts like the AAC/IACV and EGR?

Sorry you hade to read all that but any information would help!
Thanks.