<?xml version="1.0" encoding="ISO-8859-1" ?> 
<rss version="2.0" 
    xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
    xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
    xmlns:admin="http://webns.net/mvcb/"
    xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/"
    xmlns:rdf="http://www.w3.org/1999/02/22-rdf-syntax-ns#"
    xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/">

<channel>
  <title>Nissan Forums / Infiniti Forums - NICOclub: 240SX Technical Forum</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeroforum?id=17</link> 
  <description>Nissan Forums / Infiniti Forums - NICOclub: 240SX Technical Forum</description> 
  <dc:language>en-us</dc:language> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-21T07:31:48-08:00</dc:date> 
  <sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod> 
  <sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency> 
  <sy:updateBase>1970-01-01T00:00+00:00</sy:updateBase> 
  <image>
  <title>Nissan Forums / Infiniti Forums - NICOclub</title> 
  <url>http://images.zeroforum.com/new/1/pixel.gif</url> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com</link> 
  </image><item>
  <title>Altima Fan </title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=463361</link> 
  <description>I cant find an answer to this question. Iv searched with an end of no results. This is going to be a dead post after its answered so I apologize now. OK question is, with the Altima fans people say 93-97. Is there a reason that you can not go with 98-01. It has more fan blades than the other (which I take is better), they are black (which I like). They look the same to me. I just can't find anyone saying they used them. here is the difference98-0193-97Please help and don't tell me to keep searching</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ I cant find an answer to this question. Iv searched with an end of no results. This is going to be a dead post after its answered so I apologize now. OK question is, with the Altima fans people say 93-97. Is there a reason that you can not go with 98-01. It has more fan blades than the other (which I take is better), they are black (which I like). They look the same to me. I just can't find anyone saying they used them. here is the difference<p/>98-01<p/><IMG SRC="http://i45.tinypic.com/34io1n8.jpg" BORDER="0"/><p/>93-97<p/><IMG SRC="http://i48.tinypic.com/5bpojm.jpg" BORDER="0"/><p/>Please help and don't tell me to keep searching<p/> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>kpodj61240</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-21T07:14:49-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>6 speed manual on ka24de!!!</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=463356</link> 
  <description>hey guys i was wondering if  any one of you knows  if there's any 6speed tranny  fit to a ka24de             </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ hey guys i was wondering if  any one of you knows  if there's any 6speed tranny  fit to a ka24de??            <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/yelrotflmao-vi.gif" BORDER="0"/>  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>grecco28</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-21T04:04:19-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>s13 engine overheating,misfire,high idle</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=463354</link> 
  <description>so the other day i changed my front oil seal. Well after everything was back on i started it up and was running fine. Took it down the street to safeway and the temp gauge started to rise all the way, pulled it over and remembered i didnt bleed the coolant. After about 20 minuites of bleeding smoke started to come out. Decided to let it cool down and after 20 muintes tried to drive back home which was like 2 blocks away. The car was misfiring like crazy and massive loss of power. I noticed the gauge said lean the whole way home but who can really trust a gauge not set to ecu. Need help. </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ so the other day i changed my front oil seal. Well after everything was back on i started it up and was running fine. Took it down the street to safeway and the temp gauge started to rise all the way, pulled it over and remembered i didnt bleed the coolant. After about 20 minuites of bleeding smoke started to come out. Decided to let it cool down and after 20 muintes tried to drive back home which was like 2 blocks away. The car was misfiring like crazy and massive loss of power. I noticed the gauge said lean the whole way home but who can really trust a gauge not set to ecu. Need help.  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>mktachibana</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-20T23:39:11-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Going to a pull apart</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=463351</link> 
  <description>Im going to go to a pull apart this weekend and im looking to get a lsd for my 1990 240sx couple, i was wondering if any other nissan was a direct swap, is the 1991 300zx lsd be a direct swapThanks for the advise,
Modified by corey121 at 11:10 PM 11/20/2009</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Im going to go to a pull apart this weekend and im looking to get a lsd for my 1990 240sx couple, i was wondering if any other nissan was a direct swap, is the 1991 300zx lsd be a direct swap?<p/>Thanks for the advise,<BR/><BR/>
<i>Modified by corey121 at 11:10 PM 11/20/2009</i> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>corey121</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-21T00:06:44-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>s-14 240 silvia Radio bezel</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=463329</link> 
  <description>I am looking for a Radio Bezel and related parts to fit in a   S-14 240</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ I am looking for a Radio Bezel and related parts to fit in a   S-14 240 ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>ducdwb1</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-20T19:28:49-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Oil Leak</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=463326</link> 
  <description>I have a stock 95 240sx that i just bought and i did most of the general maintenance (i.e. belts, oil change, fuel filter, spark plugs...)and i started it up after and now there is smoke coming from right behind and underneath the first tube of the exhaust manifold closest to the headlights where it bolts up to the head.  Does anyone know of any seals or anything i should check cause i cant pin point the source of the i guess leak.  Didn't smoke AT ALL before the oil change.  Should i try some LUCAS in the oil and see if that helps  Its not drip from poring oil i ran the motor for 20 min and it was still smoking.it not much but ITS SMOKE!please helpthanks</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ I have a stock 95 240sx that i just bought and i did most of the general maintenance (i.e. belts, oil change, fuel filter, spark plugs...)and i started it up after and now there is smoke coming from right behind and underneath the first tube of the exhaust manifold closest to the headlights where it bolts up to the head.  Does anyone know of any seals or anything i should check cause i cant pin point the source of the i guess leak.  Didn't smoke AT ALL before the oil change.  Should i try some LUCAS in the oil and see if that helps????  Its not drip from poring oil i ran the motor for 20 min and it was still smoking.it not much but ITS SMOKE!please help<br/>thanks ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>BLKONBLKS14</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-20T21:42:30-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Need help ordering SR bearings!!!</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=463303</link> 
  <description>hey guys i know this topic has been covered in the SR rebuild thread but i need some advice.right now i read that theres a serial number and you have to cross reference the grade of the bearing before ordering.but frsport offers ACL race bearings with a special coat.http://www.frsport.com/ACL-5M2....htmlhttp://www.frsport.com/ACL-4B2....htmland they dont have the different grade, they come in complete sets. so am i safe just to order theseand some more info of my engine is:S14 SR20DET with some bolt ons. im planing on doing a full bottom end rebuild. with forged pistons and rods.also another thing is can i run 9:1 CR pistons with the stock ecu for now thanks for your time and advice nico!  </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ hey guys i know this topic has been covered in the SR rebuild thread but i need some advice.<p/>right now i read that theres a serial number and you have to cross reference the grade of the bearing before ordering.<p/>but frsport offers ACL race bearings with a special coat.<p/><A HREF="http://www.frsport.com/ACL-5M2964H-X-Race-Main-Bearing-Set-Nissan-SR20DE-SR20DET_p_9563.html" TARGET="_blank">http://www.frsport.com/ACL-5M2....html</A><br/><A HREF="http://www.frsport.com/ACL-4B2960H-X-Race-Rod-Bearing-Set-Nissan-SR20DET_p_9515.html" TARGET="_blank">http://www.frsport.com/ACL-4B2....html</A><p/>and they dont have the different grade, they come in complete sets. so am i safe just to order these?<p/>and some more info of my engine is:<br/>S14 SR20DET with some bolt ons. <br/>im planing on doing a full bottom end rebuild. with forged pistons and rods.<p/>also another thing is can i run 9:1 CR pistons with the stock ecu for now? <p/>thanks for your time and advice nico!  <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif" BORDER="0"/> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>FUNGC</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-20T16:08:10-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>WEIRD TICKING SOUND BEHIND DASH</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=463302</link> 
  <description>I have a 95 240sx with a KA24DE. There is a ticking sound coming from behind my dash that comes on when the key is in the ON position and when the car is started. Could this possibly have something to do with the pass. side air bag From what i can tell it sound to be coming from just to the left of the passenger airbag. It sounds like a slight wirling sound like an electric motor but with a ticking sound along with it.Any ideas on how to find out what it is besides take my dash apart smart guys  
Modified by BLKONBLKS14 at 6:39 PM 11/20/2009</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ I have a 95 240sx with a KA24DE. There is a ticking sound coming from behind my dash that comes on when the key is in the ON position and when the car is started. Could this possibly have something to do with the pass. side air bag? From what i can tell it sound to be coming from just to the left of the passenger airbag. It sounds like a slight wirling sound like an electric motor but with a ticking sound along with it.Any ideas on how to find out what it is besides take my dash apart smart guys? <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/wtf.gif" BORDER="0"/> <BR/><BR/>
<i>Modified by BLKONBLKS14 at 6:39 PM 11/20/2009</i> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>BLKONBLKS14</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-20T16:34:07-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>tie rod removal</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=463298</link> 
  <description>tried to get tie rod spacers installed, had no prob taking the driverside tie rod off, but the passenger inner tie rod wont turn/budge/unscrew at all from the rack.   any tips tried pb blaster and all...dont have a wrench that fits the end tho... thats all i can think of. help me.</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ tried to get tie rod spacers installed, had no prob taking the driverside tie rod off, but the passenger inner tie rod wont turn/budge/unscrew at all from the rack.   <br/>any tips? tried pb blaster and all...dont have a wrench that fits the end tho... thats all i can think of. help me. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>im_looking_for_a_240sx</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-20T21:48:11-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Guess my shifting problem</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=463281</link> 
  <description>Car was fine yesterday, today had a b**** of a time shifting into 1st and 2nd.  3rd was giving me a fight as well, and 1st gave up the a** after a while (had to start from 2nd everytime I stopped).I can dry shift fineMaster is fineClutch slave is fineClutch fluid is topped offTranny fluid is 3/4 in thereFork is pivotting ok (guessing pivot ball is ok).So bent fork  Release bearing holder spring Pressure plate Synchros shot (I was shifting fine yesterday)Also if any of the above, could you explain how that could be causing my shift problems (other than synchros).  PS: it's been cold out, and the car had been dying on me in neutral for about 2 weeks now (blamed it on fuel/vacuum issues.)</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Car was fine yesterday, today had a b**** of a time shifting into 1st and 2nd.  3rd was giving me a fight as well, and 1st gave up the a** after a while (had to start from 2nd everytime I stopped).<p/>I can dry shift fine<br/>Master is fine<br/>Clutch slave is fine<br/>Clutch fluid is topped off<br/>Tranny fluid is 3/4 in there<br/>Fork is pivotting ok (guessing pivot ball is ok).<p/>So? bent fork?  Release bearing holder spring? Pressure plate? Synchros shot (I was shifting fine yesterday)?<p/>Also if any of the above, could you explain how that could be causing my shift problems (other than synchros).<p/> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/wtf.gif" BORDER="0"/> <p/>PS: it's been cold out, and the car had been dying on me in neutral for about 2 weeks now (blamed it on fuel/vacuum issues.) ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>Chingon</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-20T23:57:07-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>rb20det swap mods</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=463261</link> 
  <description>high i'v just gotten a 240sx s14 and i already have a s13 and i want to do a rb20 swap in one of them.will it be easyer to swap into one than the otheralso will i be able to do all the things i need to do to the car to have it running properly after i have the motor and tranny with $1000and i also would like to know what upgrades would be good for it in the future...please if you can tell me what the exact name of the part is and if their are parts similar to it that are cheaper and work almost the same...also what is the turbo on a rb25because i think that is the first upgrade i need to get for the rb20</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ high i'v just gotten a 240sx s14 and i already have a s13 and i want to do a rb20 swap in one of them.<br/>will it be easyer to swap into one than the other?<br/>also will i be able to do all the things i need to do to the car to have it running properly after i have the motor and tranny with $1000?<br/>and i also would like to know what upgrades would be good for it in the future...please if you can tell me what the exact name of the part is and if their are parts similar to it that are cheaper and work almost the same...also what is the turbo on a rb25?because i think that is the first upgrade i need to get for the rb20 ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>frainklin crusier</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-20T11:28:49-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>1990 SOHC  KA24E with Injen Intake--Unknown Intake Port</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=463219</link> 
  <description>I have a port that is capped off. I talked to Injen and they think it connects to one of the 2 top hoses on the charcoal canister. They weren't sure.My canister has a yellow hose on top and green below. Do either of these go to the capped nipple port which I circled in red and have a green arrow pointing to it</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ I have a port that is capped off. I talked to Injen and they think it connects to one of the 2 top hoses on the charcoal canister. They weren't sure.<br/>My canister has a yellow hose on top and green below. Do either of these go to the capped nipple port which I circled in red and have a green arrow pointing to it?<p/><IMG SRC="http://i45.tinypic.com/257ho93.jpg" BORDER="0"/><br/> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>WhiteKnight</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-21T00:33:07-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>4</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Squeeling</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=463176</link> 
  <description>So its a 90 240 sx nissan with the s13 engine,and it Squeels at start, or when slowingi'm thinking timing belt, but was curious if there was something else that common failed.thanks again</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ So its a 90 240 sx nissan with the s13 engine,<br/>and it Squeels at start, or when slowing<p/>i'm thinking timing belt, but was curious if there was something else that common failed.<p/>thanks again ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>NicUzumaki</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-20T22:28:25-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>4</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Intake Hoses</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=463152</link> 
  <description>Does anyone know where I can buy replacement silicone hoses for my intake My stock hoses are cracked and I wanna replace them all with silicon ones but I don't know where to purchase them or what sizes they are. Thank you!</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Does anyone know where I can buy replacement silicone hoses for my intake? My stock hoses are cracked and I wanna replace them all with silicon ones but I don't know where to purchase them or what sizes they are. Thank you! ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>Demi Icarus</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-19T18:02:11-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>New Wastegate Comparison</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=463116</link> 
  <description>When Precision released their new 46mm Wastegate, we were asked by our clients to do a side by side comparison with the Tial 44mm, you are probably wondering, why not against the Tial 46mm and the reason is because even though Tial makes a 46mm, it is the 44mm that has the same mounting flange as Precisions therefore if you have a header with that mounting flange already on it the decision would be between the Tial 44mm and the Precision 46mm. Below is the observations we were able to make by taking them apart, and comparing their internals.Tial is a 44mm Wastegate that comes in a multitude of colors. Precisions has a bit of a larger valve, 46mm, and it is only available in black. The boxes are the same size and they both come packed with the same foam material that completely protects every part from damage during shipping. Below are the contents of the boxes the way they come, the clear difference is that the Precision comes with 3 extra springs in the box, that way you have the possibility to replace them without having to make a separate order for them.As for the hardware, both have the banjo design, but the Precision brings an extra plug in case you dont use one of the ports of the Wastegate and the Tial doesnt have this in their hardware.When side by side they look very similar, however the Precision unit is a bit smaller in height compared to the Tial. The underside again is the same basic design, however you can see how the valve in the precision is a little bit larger (2mm) than the Tial unit.Once apart, the precision comes standard with 2 springs, and the seat materials are visibly different, I m not qualified to give a breakdown on the materials, however the structure of the seat itself is the same, and even though is hard to tell from the pictures they both use a 4 Allen key setup to hold the seat to the valve itself.Internally the main difference is Precision uses a longer sleeve to hold the stem of the valve.And last but not least the literature. Precision comes with a multi page full color instructions manual, Tial half a letter size paper printed in both sides.Hope this can help you make an educated decision when in the market for a Wastegate.</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ When Precision released their new 46mm Wastegate, we were asked by our clients to do a side by side comparison with the Tial 44mm, you are probably wondering, why not against the Tial 46mm?? and the reason is because even though Tial makes a 46mm, it is the 44mm that has the same mounting flange as Precision’s therefore if you have a header with that mounting flange already on it the decision would be between the Tial 44mm and the Precision 46mm. Below is the observations we were able to make by taking them apart, and comparing their internals.<p/>Tial is a 44mm Wastegate that comes in a multitude of colors. Precision’s has a bit of a larger valve, 46mm, and it is only available in black. The boxes are the same size and they both come packed with the same foam material that completely protects every part from damage during shipping.<br/> <br/><IMG SRC="http://site.titanmotorsports.com/images/PrecisionVSTial/img_5086.jpg" BORDER="0"/><br/><IMG SRC="http://site.titanmotorsports.com/images/PrecisionVSTial/img_5088.jpg" BORDER="0"/><br/><IMG SRC="http://site.titanmotorsports.com/images/PrecisionVSTial/img_5089.jpg" BORDER="0"/><p/>Below are the contents of the boxes the way they come, the clear difference is that the Precision comes with 3 extra springs in the box, that way you have the possibility to replace them without having to make a separate order for them.<p/><IMG SRC="http://site.titanmotorsports.com/images/PrecisionVSTial/img_5089.jpg" BORDER="0"/><br/><IMG SRC="http://site.titanmotorsports.com/images/PrecisionVSTial/img_5092.jpg" BORDER="0"/><p/>As for the hardware, both have the banjo design, but the Precision brings an extra plug in case you don’t use one of the ports of the Wastegate and the Tial doesn’t have this in their hardware.<p/><IMG SRC="http://site.titanmotorsports.com/images/PrecisionVSTial/img_5105.jpg" BORDER="0"/><p/>When side by side they look very similar, however the Precision unit is a bit smaller in height compared to the Tial. <p/><IMG SRC="http://site.titanmotorsports.com/images/PrecisionVSTial/img_5093.jpg" BORDER="0"/><br/><IMG SRC="http://site.titanmotorsports.com/images/PrecisionVSTial/img_5094.jpg" BORDER="0"/><p/>The underside again is the same basic design, however you can see how the valve in the precision is a little bit larger (2mm) than the Tial unit.<p/><IMG SRC="http://site.titanmotorsports.com/images/PrecisionVSTial/img_5094.jpg" BORDER="0"/><br/><IMG SRC="http://site.titanmotorsports.com/images/PrecisionVSTial/img_5096.jpg" BORDER="0"/><p/>Once apart, the precision comes standard with 2 springs, and the seat materials are visibly different, I ‘m not qualified to give a breakdown on the materials, however the structure of the seat itself is the same, and even though is hard to tell from the pictures they both use a 4 Allen key setup to hold the seat to the valve itself.<p/><IMG SRC="http://site.titanmotorsports.com/images/PrecisionVSTial/img_5102.jpg" BORDER="0"/><p/>Internally the main difference is Precision uses a longer sleeve to hold the stem of the valve.<p/><IMG SRC="http://site.titanmotorsports.com/images/PrecisionVSTial/img_5103.jpg" BORDER="0"/><p/>And last but not least the literature. Precision comes with a multi page full color instruction’s manual, Tial half a letter size paper printed in both sides.<p/><IMG SRC="http://site.titanmotorsports.com/images/PrecisionVSTial/img_5107.jpg" BORDER="0"/><br/><IMG SRC="http://site.titanmotorsports.com/images/PrecisionVSTial/img_5106.jpg" BORDER="0"/><p/>Hope this can help you make an educated decision when in the market for a Wastegate.<br/> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>TitanMotorsports</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-19T14:10:13-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>SR20DET CLUTCH OR TRANNY ISSUES!!</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=463068</link> 
  <description>I have an 89 coupe with a 1997 blacktop swap, clutch was built at a local business in atlanta about a year ago, but didn't log many miles. I have some shifting issues, maily high rpm shifts, or when i granny it around, it grinds, if i am running hard it grinds hard and usually takes 2 attempts to get into gear. and occasionally, only has happened a few times, when i am at a complete stop going into first, it grinds but goes it. The clutch doens' slip and smell ever and normal driving usually has no issues, unless I shift like a granny, it will grind as it slides in. Is this a throwout bearing or am i looking at a tranny issue. Clutch feel is good and firm and doesn't change no matter how it is being run.   p.s. I am not new to cars but semi new to nissans. sorry. i was a honda guy first. but then i saw the light.  </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ I have an 89 coupe with a 1997 blacktop swap, clutch was built at a local business in atlanta about a year ago, but didn't log many miles. I have some shifting issues, maily high rpm shifts, or when i granny it around, it grinds, if i am running hard it grinds hard and usually takes 2 attempts to get into gear. and occasionally, only has happened a few times, when i am at a complete stop going into first, it grinds but goes it. The clutch doens' slip and smell ever and normal driving usually has no issues, unless I shift like a granny, it will grind as it slides in. Is this a throwout bearing or am i looking at a tranny issue. Clutch feel is good and firm and doesn't change no matter how it is being run.  <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/wtf.gif" BORDER="0"/> <br/>p.s. I am not new to cars but semi new to nissans. sorry. i was a honda guy first. but then i saw the light. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/bowdown.gif" BORDER="0"/>  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>95nismoSX</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-19T10:32:53-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>1993 240sx Cluster with Single Cam Wiring</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=463029</link> 
  <description>Hello, i just got a 1993 240sx and the HUD doesnt work  i have read alot of fourms that they get messup over time so i wanted to change it to analog .. i brought a dohc cluster without the wiring thinking it would be plug and play snice i had dohc wiring i cant  and i went to the junk yard but there was only a single cam and i took the wiring .. everything fit in my car harness but it didnt display anything .. no speed was read or the rpm .. so i wanted to know if there was a way i can cut the harness to make my cluster work. thanks  </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Hello, i just got a 1993 240sx and the HUD doesnt work <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif" BORDER="0"/> i have read alot of fourms that they get messup over time so i wanted to change it to analog .. i brought a dohc cluster without the wiring thinking it would be plug and play snice i had dohc wiring i cant <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif" BORDER="0"/> and i went to the junk yard but there was only a single cam and i took the wiring .. everything fit in my car harness but it didnt display anything .. no speed was read or the rpm .. so i wanted to know if there was a way i can cut the harness to make my cluster work. thanks  <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif" BORDER="0"/> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>mgs_snake</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-18T23:09:44-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>wiring help needed!!</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=463019</link> 
  <description>ok so, ima cut it short.. out of know where, all my vacuum lines and wiring harness got wrapped around my fan!!!  there is a black/ gray stripe and brown/ gray stripe wires that go into a little clip, its comes from the same wiring harness that the maf sensor wires come from.. what does that connect to i cannot find it anywere. also, there are three vacuum lines that come from under the intake manifold that connect to the other side, i found 2 of the homes for them but cannot find the 3rd, also, i dont even know which ones connect to which.. please help</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ ok so, ima cut it short.. out of know where, all my vacuum lines and wiring harness got wrapped around my fan!!! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif" BORDER="0"/> there is a black/ gray stripe and brown/ gray stripe wires that go into a little clip, its comes from the same wiring harness that the maf sensor wires come from.. what does that connect to??? i cannot find it anywere. also, there are three vacuum lines that come from under the intake manifold that connect to the other side, i found 2 of the homes for them but cannot find the 3rd, also, i dont even know which ones connect to which.. please help ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>kylekinnamon1989</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-18T21:49:57-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Tepm gauge fluctuates down, and rpms seem to fall.</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=463010</link> 
  <description>Ok, here goes. I have recently (may 2009-ish) rebuilt a 95 S14 with a KA24DE out of i bellieve a 93 S13. Everything ran fine after the first 3 test runs, except for minor clutch smoke because of residual anti rust coatings on the new flywheel. Months later the vehicle fans were interfering with the ac lines and power steering line started to leak. No big deal. Most issues are fixed, still have to do the steering and the speed sensors, but now it has other issues. To have an idea, i will include the entire rebuild list. Here goes, Jeff if you read this and i miss anything please let me know. KA24DE from S13, keps same distributor and main components from that engine, fully torn down (bottom end pressurized fine, so pistons were not removed) and rebuilt with Cometic HG, ARP Studs, Mishimoto Radiator, 60 Celcius NISMO thermostat, Mishimoto Fans, auxillary fan controller connected to factory temp sensor, manual swap with full hydraulics and steel braided lines, fidanza flywheel and clutchmasters stage 2 (not sure), Aluminum driveshaft, Cold air intake, 3" Cat and cat back exhaust...Now we have a minor issue. The temperature on the gauge inside the vehicle (stock dash gauge) goes from 50% (if C is 0% and H is 100%) to 25%. and the idle seems to jump from 1k down to 750 RPM. Sometimes it seems to want to stall. Unfortunately i do not drive the vehicle every day, it is my brother's car and i hate to see him having issues. Please, anyone with insight let me know. I'm racking my technical knowledge and can't think of anything but air bubbles and MAF or IAC.. Maybe i'm spent teching my weber-carb 2TC all the time or my VQ30DE...Thanks guys, you haven't let me down yet!</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Ok, here goes. I have recently (may 2009-ish) rebuilt a 95 S14 with a KA24DE out of i bellieve a 93 S13. Everything ran fine after the first 3 test runs, except for minor clutch smoke because of residual anti rust coatings on the new flywheel. Months later the vehicle fans were interfering with the ac lines and power steering line started to leak. No big deal. Most issues are fixed, still have to do the steering and the speed sensors, but now it has other issues. <p/>To have an idea, i will include the entire rebuild list. Here goes, Jeff if you read this and i miss anything please let me know. <p/>KA24DE from S13, keps same distributor and main components from that engine, fully torn down (bottom end pressurized fine, so pistons were not removed) and rebuilt with Cometic HG, ARP Studs, Mishimoto Radiator, 60 Celcius NISMO thermostat, Mishimoto Fans, auxillary fan controller connected to factory temp sensor, manual swap with full hydraulics and steel braided lines, fidanza flywheel and clutchmasters stage 2? (not sure), Aluminum driveshaft, Cold air intake, 3" Cat and cat back exhaust...<p/>Now we have a minor issue. The temperature on the gauge inside the vehicle (stock dash gauge) goes from 50% (if C is 0% and H is 100%) to 25%. and the idle seems to jump from 1k down to 750 RPM. Sometimes it seems to want to stall. Unfortunately i do not drive the vehicle every day, it is my brother's car and i hate to see him having issues. Please, anyone with insight let me know. I'm racking my technical knowledge and can't think of anything but air bubbles and MAF or IAC.. Maybe i'm spent teching my weber-carb 2TC all the time or my VQ30DE...<p/>Thanks guys, you haven't let me down yet! ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>dtuner</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-20T11:05:18-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>6</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>viper alarm issue</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462987</link> 
  <description>ok  im installing a viper 350 plus one way alarm  heres my problemi dont know where i hook this up too(-) door trigger input(-) instant door trigger input(+) door trigger inputi have a 1990 s13 im also installing door locks can any one assist me im broke and dont wanna pay an installer wen it can be explained to mei got the wiring diagram from the12volt.com and it doesnt explain that one more thing i wired the starter kill and the car still starts wen its armed</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ ok  im installing a viper 350 plus one way alarm <br/> heres my problem<br/>i dont know where i hook this up too?<p/><br/>(-) door trigger input<br/>(-) instant door trigger input<br/>(+) door trigger input<p/>i have a 1990 s13 im also installing door locks can any one assist me im broke and dont wanna pay an installer wen it can be explained to me?<br/>i got the wiring diagram from the12volt.com and it doesnt explain that? one more thing i wired the starter kill and the car still starts wen its armed? ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>dat925stunna</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-20T16:41:41-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>20</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>differential problems...plz help...</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462986</link> 
  <description>i just put in a kaaz2way in my s14. i broke it in bye doing the 8s in a empty parking lot but now when i shift from first to second to third it makes a lot of noise. mainly a big loud click idk if this is normal. also as i accelarate i hear like if the diff. is grinding. i am thinking about taking it to a actual shop this time. but before do u guys think it will be a costly fix. or wat would happen...i really hope i didnt mess up the new diff. any suggestions   </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ i just put in a kaaz2way in my s14. i broke it in bye doing the 8s in a empty parking lot but now when i shift from first to second to third it makes a lot of noise. mainly a big loud click idk if this is normal. also as i accelarate i hear like if the diff. is grinding. i am thinking about taking it to a actual shop this time. but before do u guys think it will be a costly fix?. or wat would happen?...i really hope i didnt mess up the new diff. any suggestions? <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/bash.gif" BORDER="0"/>   ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>bermeo240</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-21T06:43:49-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>how to change 3rd brake light</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462962</link> 
  <description>okay not literally but my 91 coupe doesnt have the 3rd brake light inside the cabin of the car on the rear windshield as this picture showsbut i have the stock wing with the brake light instead, i cant seem to get it out, im twisting it and twisting it but it has this really weird feeling to itit feels like theres no bulb in there or even a socket yet i cant seem to twist it, anybody else have a problem like this  </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ okay not literally but my 91 coupe doesnt have the 3rd brake light inside the cabin of the car on the rear windshield as this picture shows<p/><IMG SRC="http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c290/6footmidget/DSCN0193.jpg" BORDER="0"/><p/>but i have the stock wing with the brake light instead, i cant seem to get it out, im twisting it and twisting it but it has this really weird feeling to it<p/><IMG SRC="http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c290/6footmidget/DSCN0191.jpg" BORDER="0"/><p/>it feels like theres no bulb in there or even a socket yet i cant seem to twist it, anybody else have a problem like this? <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/wtf.gif" BORDER="0"/>  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>6footmidget</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-18T18:18:06-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Cant solve sluggish problem</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462906</link> 
  <description>Hey guys, i bought this car from 1st owner. 10 years ago, he did not know what was wrong with it when it didnt want to start, someone told him it needed a new engine, so he put it in his garage, until now. Anyways, it was overheated and resurfaced heads, new gaskets, water pump, etc. Cleaned out fuel tank, new fuel pump, new filter, replaced spark plugs, wires, cap n rotor, starter, alternator, MAF. I replaced alot of things. Car has 118,000 original miles. When i go to start it, starts right up, but when i place it in 1st gear, it wants to bog down while im pressing the gas. It drives, but lacks big time power. I rev engine in neutral, and it seems perfeclty fine, so i know its not the engine. I can't seem to find the problem, ive tried everything. It seems like there is something clogged. Only thing i can think of is that car has stock exhaust and cat (i know, i have no money right now). what do you guys think I would appreciate any help.</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Hey guys, i bought this car from 1st owner. 10 years ago, he did not know what was wrong with it when it didnt want to start, someone told him it needed a new engine, so he put it in his garage, until now. Anyways, it was overheated and resurfaced heads, new gaskets, water pump, etc. Cleaned out fuel tank, new fuel pump, new filter, replaced spark plugs, wires, cap n rotor, starter, alternator, MAF. I replaced alot of things. Car has 118,000 original miles. When i go to start it, starts right up, but when i place it in 1st gear, it wants to bog down while im pressing the gas. It drives, but lacks big time power. I rev engine in neutral, and it seems perfeclty fine, so i know its not the engine. I can't seem to find the problem, ive tried everything. It seems like there is something clogged. Only thing i can think of is that car has stock exhaust and cat (i know, i have no money right now). what do you guys think? I would appreciate any help. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>ranismo</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-19T07:11:32-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>6</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>i need tunerpro base tune files!!!</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462903</link> 
  <description>does anyone have a tunerpro xdf and bin file for a red top sr20det on handI can tune it from scratch, but this would be faster, thank you.</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ does anyone have a tunerpro xdf and bin file for a red top sr20det on hand?<p/>I can tune it from scratch, but this would be faster, thank you. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>vas570sx</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-18T10:50:06-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>starts at times but wont hold an idle</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462872</link> 
  <description>Ok I took my KA24DE out of my 92 hatchback and swapped it into a 91 coupe. The original KA24DE that was in the 91 coupe was blown. When pulling out the KA from the 92 hatch it fell about two feet (fail) and put a small dent in the oil pan, there is no leak or anything from the oil pan or anywhere else. I know what your thinking that is your problem right there but as far as i know there are no sensors or anything else besides the pump in there.Once the swap was completed and we tired to start the car it would not start, we tired; changing the dizzy, sub coil and ECU. It remained like this for a week until we realized that the fuel lines were backwards and it started, second failure.So then i get stuck at work for bout a week straight so I didn't have time to play with mt baby until yesterday. O i should mention that the coupe was sitting for awhile a couple of months before i got it and the gas went bad. It was like a brown color( think it turn to turpentine). So yesterday we pumped out the whole 1/2 g of bad gas. Put about a gallon and half of fresh gas in there with 108 octane buster. So it started up yesterday when we tapped the gas and turned the key. The car would rev up from us tapping the gas but if you let off the gas or floor it the car shuts off without holding an idle. Switched the original ECU from the coupe back thinking maybe they are mapped different. No luck.Tired tonight and couldn't get it to start at all figured hey put the ECU from the hatchback back in there again, still nothing.Please any ideas or suggestions or related personal experience would be helpful.Things I've tired and checked; changed ECU's more than once, lol, changed dizzy twice, the one from the hatch is there now, change the sub coil to the one from the hatch, checked the harness over and over for something unplugged, the only problem we partly saw were that two vac holes between the valve cover and the fire wall were broken so we fixed it also the sensor nearest the driver side was broken on the bottom where the vac holes connects this was also changed. All other vac holes as far as we can see were connected except the EGR valve, cant figure out where the connection is. O also changed the headers w/ the bridge that goes to the intake manifold. My MAF is good and it clean.So basically please any help would be appreciated i know i have fuel, spark and air cause like i said i got it to start a couple of times but it would hold an idle.</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Ok I took my KA24DE out of my 92 hatchback and swapped it into a 91 coupe. The original KA24DE that was in the 91 coupe was blown. When pulling out the KA from the 92 hatch it fell about two feet (fail) and put a small dent in the oil pan, there is no leak or anything from the oil pan or anywhere else. I know what your thinking that is your problem right there but as far as i know there are no sensors or anything else besides the pump in there.<p/>Once the swap was completed and we tired to start the car it would not start, we tired; changing the dizzy, sub coil and ECU. It remained like this for a week until we realized that the fuel lines were backwards and it started, second failure.<p/>So then i get stuck at work for bout a week straight so I didn't have time to play with mt baby until yesterday. O i should mention that the coupe was sitting for awhile a couple of months before i got it and the gas went bad. It was like a brown color( think it turn to turpentine). So yesterday we pumped out the whole 1/2 g of bad gas. Put about a gallon and half of fresh gas in there with 108 octane buster. So it started up yesterday when we tapped the gas and turned the key. The car would rev up from us tapping the gas but if you let off the gas or floor it the car shuts off without holding an idle. Switched the original ECU from the coupe back thinking maybe they are mapped different. No luck.<p/>Tired tonight and couldn't get it to start at all figured hey put the ECU from the hatchback back in there again, still nothing.<p/>Please any ideas or suggestions or related personal experience would be helpful.<p/>Things I've tired and checked; changed ECU's more than once, lol, changed dizzy twice, the one from the hatch is there now, change the sub coil to the one from the hatch, checked the harness over and over for something unplugged, the only problem we partly saw were that two vac holes between the valve cover and the fire wall were broken so we fixed it also the sensor nearest the driver side was broken on the bottom where the vac holes connects this was also changed. All other vac holes as far as we can see were connected except the EGR valve, cant figure out where the connection is. O also changed the headers w/ the bridge that goes to the intake manifold. My MAF is good and it clean.<p/>So basically please any help would be appreciated i know i have fuel, spark and air cause like i said i got it to start a couple of times but it would hold an idle. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>240sx92bnb</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-18T05:23:36-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>SR is overheating! help!</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462869</link> 
  <description>Ok, so bottom line, ive got a problem with my s13 overheating, but its only when i drift (which is 90% of the time because its a track car only). It takes about 3 laps on an average day for the car to overheat, and around 1 if im running a bumper. I have the e-fans running full time because it doesnt seem like they do s***.I have...-koyorad aluminum radiator-Flex-o-lite dual electric fans (has a shrowed with a rubber seal that runs around the circumference of the radiator...very nice) -stock thermostat (never replaced)-huge fmic (which i think blocks the airflow to the radiator)</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Ok, so bottom line, ive got a problem with my s13 overheating, but its only when i drift (which is 90% of the time because its a track car only). It takes about 3 laps on an average day for the car to overheat, and around 1 if im running a bumper. I have the e-fans running full time because it doesnt seem like they do s***.<p/>I have...<p/>-koyorad aluminum radiator<p/>-Flex-o-lite dual electric fans (has a shrowed with a rubber seal that <br/>runs around the circumference of the radiator...very nice)<br/> <br/>-stock thermostat (never replaced)<p/>-huge fmic (which i think blocks the airflow to the radiator)<p/><br/> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>redsx13</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-20T22:33:21-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>11</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Measuring Caster</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462852</link> 
  <description>How do you measure casterI've been reading up on alignment and most write ups only show toe and camber. Any help</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ How do you measure caster?<br/>I've been reading up on alignment and most write ups only show toe and camber. Any help? ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>stephen-knight</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-17T23:50:07-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>s14 rear seats install into a s13 hatch</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462826</link> 
  <description>Any one have the link to the write up I lost it. I just got some kouki rears dirt cheap and want to put them in my hatch</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Any one have the link to the write up I lost it. I just got some kouki rears dirt cheap and want to put them in my hatch ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>Davetheslave</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-18T18:04:53-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Any help is appreciated</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462820</link> 
  <description>I am running a 95 240SX SE at my local dirt tracks. Having a blast with it. Would like to improve a few things on the car:1. Rev limiter setpoint--need about 300 more RPM going into the corner...would a remapped ECU be the best way Recommendations2. I want to put a header on the car...manufacturer 4-1 or 4-2-1 The lower end is great, but want to improve on the top end3. Best way to put a removeable steering in the car.Thanks in advance</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ I am running a 95 240SX SE at my local dirt tracks. Having a blast with it. Would like to improve a few things on the car:<br/>1. Rev limiter setpoint--need about 300 more RPM going into the corner...would a remapped ECU be the best way? Recommendations?<br/>2. I want to put a header on the car...manufacturer? 4-1 or 4-2-1? The lower end is great, but want to improve on the top end<br/>3. Best way to put a removeable steering in the car.<p/>Thanks in advance ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>scottyc37</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-18T00:15:20-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>s14 seat belt question</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462802</link> 
  <description>i just ordered some s14 seat belts to finally covert mine to manual belts cuz the automatic ones get stuck on my S13 and they dont come with the buckles would the S13s one work or no </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ i just ordered some s14 seat belts to finally covert mine to manual belts cuz the automatic ones get stuck on my S13 and they dont come with the buckles would the S13s one work or no ? ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>dat925stunna</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-21T00:22:13-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>4</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Gas/Exhaust smell inside cabin after doing a long, boosted pull</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462772</link> 
  <description>Since I've done my 2JZGTE swap earlier this year, I can't diagnose where the gas/exhaust smell is coming from.  It only happens if I have a window or sunroof open and I think that is because when they are open, it creates a vacuum inside the car.If I do a nice 2nd, 3rd, 4th or 5th gear pull, I always get a smell of gas and/or exhaust immediately afterwards for about 20 seconds.  It seems that There are no exhaust leaks.My exhaust tip out far enough so the exhaust should escape past the rear bumper.The fuel pump cover is sealed and bolted up.I relocated my valve cover breather to down behind the headlight.My blow off valve is now relocated down behind the headlight too.I thought about hooking up my shop vac to the interior somehow and pulling vacuum on it and then using some type of smoker or fogger to see where it enters the car, but I don't really have access to one and they are quite expensive.If I keep the windows up and sunroof closed, I don't get any exhaust smell whatsoever.Any ideas on what I am missing  </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Since I've done my 2JZGTE swap earlier this year, I can't diagnose where the gas/exhaust smell is coming from.  It only happens if I have a window or sunroof open and I think that is because when they are open, it creates a vacuum inside the car.<p/>If I do a nice 2nd, 3rd, 4th or 5th gear pull, I always get a smell of gas and/or exhaust immediately afterwards for about 20 seconds.  It seems that <p/>There are no exhaust leaks.<br/>My exhaust tip out far enough so the exhaust should escape past the rear bumper.<br/>The fuel pump cover is sealed and bolted up.<br/>I relocated my valve cover breather to down behind the headlight.<br/>My blow off valve is now relocated down behind the headlight too.<p/>I thought about hooking up my shop vac to the interior somehow and pulling vacuum on it and then using some type of smoker or fogger to see where it enters the car, but I don't really have access to one and they are quite expensive.<p/>If I keep the windows up and sunroof closed, I don't get any exhaust smell whatsoever.<br/>Any ideas on what I am missing?   ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>phuz</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-19T05:53:08-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>4</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>j30 rear brake help</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462745</link> 
  <description>Hey whats up guys i have a small problem that i hope can be fixxed easy... well i just picked up a compleat set of brakes for a j30 hat i want to put on my 89 240sx... sounds easy enough because i did my research right... wrong... i couldnt seem to find anything about putting the back calipers on... i did read somewere that the back brakes have a drum brake styl E brake like the z32 but do i really need the drum if i dont really ever use my ebrake and will the rear calipers still work the same with out the inner drum ( if they have a drum) ... im sorry if this is a dumb question but i couldnt seem to find anything and thanks for your tim and views... also i know i suck at spelling so dont shoot me... lol</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Hey whats up guys i have a small problem that i hope can be fixxed easy... well i just picked up a compleat set of brakes for a j30 hat i want to put on my 89 240sx... sounds easy enough because i did my research right... wrong... i couldnt seem to find anything about putting the back calipers on... i did read somewere that the back brakes have a drum brake styl E brake like the z32 but do i really need the drum if i dont really ever use my ebrake and will the rear calipers still work the same with out the inner drum ( if they have a drum) ... im sorry if this is a dumb question but i couldnt seem to find anything and thanks for your tim and views... also i know i suck at spelling so dont shoot me... lol ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>ugly beater 89</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-18T00:11:50-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Question about cams, sprockets, and timing</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462734</link> 
  <description>Ok guys, I recently opened up a 96 s14 in order to change the head gasket.  On our first attempt putting everything back together we weren't at TDC on no. 1 Clyinder.  We reset things and upon putting everything back together, we aligned the camshaft sprockets and timing chain EXACTLY as the book said, we're still not firing; no.3 cylinder isn't gettin compression to the plug hole, but the compression stroke of no.3 cylinder seems to be coming out of the intake.  We're trying to find out things about why this problem might be happening.  She was running when we pulled her up, and now we're not firing up at all, she tries, but will not start.  Any help here is GREATLY appreciated.</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Ok guys, I recently opened up a 96 s14 in order to change the head gasket.  On our first attempt putting everything back together we weren't at TDC on no. 1 Clyinder.  We reset things and upon putting everything back together, we aligned the camshaft sprockets and timing chain EXACTLY as the book said, we're still not firing; no.3 cylinder isn't gettin compression to the plug hole, but the compression stroke of no.3 cylinder seems to be coming out of the intake.  We're trying to find out things about why this problem might be happening.  She was running when we pulled her up, and now we're not firing up at all, she tries, but will not start.  Any help here is GREATLY appreciated. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>Spartan325</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-20T08:58:16-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>4</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>180sx + s14= </title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462731</link> 
  <description>Hi all,    Out of curiosity I was wondering whats more practical. And when I say practical i mean cheaper, cleaner, and faster. Im new to the whole silvia world (or tuning in general) so go easy on me.    So I recently heard of a sileighty. I think its sweet idea. I have always been a fan of the 180 tail lights but not so much the s13 front clip. on the other hand, an s14 kouki front clip is killer in my opinion.    So my question is what is a more practical change To get a 180sx and do in sileighty style, change the front to a kouki s14 kinda look. or get a s14/240sx and change the rear fenders, lights, bumper etc not including the hatch back. In keeping with the coupe trunk style. I know both ways would require extensive fabrication and body work, and of course $. But im just curious. Feedback is much appriciated. Flaming....is lame.In a nutshell im thinkin this.......With this.....</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Hi all,<p/>    Out of curiosity I was wondering whats more practical. And when I say practical i mean cheaper, cleaner, and faster. Im new to the whole silvia world (or tuning in general) so go easy on me.<br/>    So I recently heard of a sileighty. I think its sweet idea. I have always been a fan of the 180 tail lights but not so much the s13 front clip. on the other hand, an s14 kouki front clip is killer in my opinion.<br/>    So my question is what is a more practical change? To get a 180sx and do in sileighty style, change the front to a kouki s14 kinda look. or get a s14/240sx and change the rear fenders, lights, bumper etc? not including the hatch back. In keeping with the coupe trunk style. I know both ways would require extensive fabrication and body work, and of course $. But im just curious. Feedback is much appriciated. Flaming....is lame.<p/>In a nutshell im thinkin this.......<IMG SRC="http://passwordjdm.com/images/Products/JDM%20S13%20180sx%20Kouki%20Tail%20Lights%20Large.jpg" BORDER="0"/><p/>With this.....<IMG SRC="http://www.vertex-usa.com/images/Nissan/S14Kouki/Lang/front.jpg" BORDER="0"/><p/> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>takumi_squared</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-17T20:36:06-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>7</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Alternate Power steering pump</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462726</link> 
  <description>Anybody know of any other Power steering pump that will fit my 1992 Nissan 240 I was hoping to get one from my local salvage yard but there in no 240s there. I was wondering if one off Frontier or some other vehicle could be used.</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Anybody know of any other Power steering pump that will fit my 1992 Nissan 240? I was hoping to get one from my local salvage yard but there in no 240s there. I was wondering if one off Frontier or some other vehicle could be used. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>jlwade</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-17T13:18:48-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>s13.4</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462693</link> 
  <description>hey im new here.  but i have done some looking and cant find the answers i want, so question is on a 13.4 conversion are the finders wide i.e. 20mm or 30mm  because every conversion kit i have found does not list this info. and i want to do 50mm in the rear, but it will be retarded to do this if it's stock width in the front... also can you put this togeather with standard kouki s14 finders  or do they need extensive modification to work... i would rather get flamed on here then waste money trying to make something work that wont... \so any info would be sweet...  </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ hey im new here.  but i have done some looking and cant find the answers i want, so question is on a 13.4 conversion are the finders wide i.e. 20mm or 30mm ? because every conversion kit i have found does not list this info. and i want to do 50mm in the rear, but it will be retarded to do this if it's stock width in the front... <p/>also can you put this togeather with standard kouki s14 finders ? or do they need extensive modification to work... i would rather get flamed on here then waste money trying to make something work that wont... \<p/>so any info would be sweet... <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/ninja2.gif" BORDER="0"/>  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>grengoboom</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-17T10:26:38-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Problem!! accelaration cut out</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462650</link> 
  <description>ok i have a problem here i got a 1990 240sx sohc millage is unknownthe problem is when i floor it 1st threw 3rd gear is fine but when i engage 4th and 4th gear reaches around 5 thousand rpms it decelerates by its self i step on the gas and no go. i have to put it to neutral and pop it back into 4thwhat could be causing this       </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ ok i have a problem here <br/>i got a 1990 240sx sohc millage is unknown<br/>the problem is when i floor it 1st threw 3rd gear is fine but when i engage 4th and 4th gear reaches around 5 thousand rpms it decelerates by its self i step on the gas and no go. i have to put it to neutral and pop it back into 4th<br/>what could be causing this?    <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif" BORDER="0"/>  <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif" BORDER="0"/>  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>miggysanch3z</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-17T13:05:20-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>no injector signal KA24DE</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462627</link> 
  <description>so i posted this in the ka section but no response. a friend has a pig nose s13 with an s14 ka24de. after 3 years he finally got it to run. it only ran for about 10 seconds then shuts off. and it takes a long time for it to start back up. when it runs it runs great. then just dies and i checked the injector wires and it has positive from both wires. im not sure where else to check. we used his ECU in a friends s13 and it worked fine. so any help is appreciated. thanks PS he is about to take it to an electrical shop..... p**** lol  </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ so i posted this in the ka section but no response. a friend has a pig nose s13 with an s14 ka24de. after 3 years he finally got it to run. it only ran for about 10 seconds then shuts off. and it takes a long time for it to start back up. when it runs it runs great. then just dies and i checked the injector wires and it has positive from both wires. im not sure where else to check. we used his ECU in a friends s13 and it worked fine. so any help is appreciated. thanks <p/>PS he is about to take it to an electrical shop..... p**** lol <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/bash.gif" BORDER="0"/>  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>motoman399</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-16T21:11:48-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>My 1991 Q is pouring white smoke out of the right hand exhaust.</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462614</link> 
  <description>It has full duel exhaust so i know the problem is on that side.. just prior to all this my car started running like turd so i swung by a couple mechanics and asked then for thier oppinions they all seemed to think injector, exhaust valve, or spark issue. went to my sisters and her boyfriend helped me diagnose it.. we got as far as the #2 injector and it didnt work at all. tested the wiring and it was sending pulses like we assumed it should so we tested the injector and nothing.. actuator is bad.. so i just shove everything back together cause i gotta go to work in the morning 60miles away. so i screwed up my o rings and didnt realize it till i had left for my morning break. while driving i realized that i was smelling fuel so i looked under the hood when i got back and sure enough there was gas running over my injector and pooling on my motor so i rip the injector out and slap the closest orings i can find in it. and it stopped the leak from over the top but it poured white smoke when i fired it up. WTF!! right. the lower or inner o ring was small so i thaught over fuel but that should be black smoke right. and it smelled horrid not like antifreeze but like oil and gas.. but was pure white smoke no milky or foamy oil and water was low but i added to it and ran it till it heated up and no rainbows. Oil is kinda old but my car doesnt turn oil black it just slightly darkens the gold in its 3000miles. im lost and need info. please help..</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ It has full duel exhaust so i know the problem is on that side.. just prior to all this my car started running like turd so i swung by a couple mechanics and asked then for thier oppinions they all seemed to think injector, exhaust valve, or spark issue. went to my sisters and her boyfriend helped me diagnose it.. we got as far as the #2 injector and it didnt work at all. tested the wiring and it was sending pulses like we assumed it should so we tested the injector and nothing.. actuator is bad.. so i just shove everything back together cause i gotta go to work in the morning 60miles away. so i screwed up my o rings and didnt realize it till i had left for my morning break. while driving i realized that i was smelling fuel so i looked under the hood when i got back and sure enough there was gas running over my injector and pooling on my motor so i rip the injector out and slap the closest orings i can find in it. and it stopped the leak from over the top but it poured white smoke when i fired it up. WTF?!?! right. the lower or inner o ring was small so i thaught over fuel but that should be black smoke right??. and it smelled horrid not like antifreeze but like oil and gas.. but was pure white smoke??? no milky or foamy oil and water was low but i added to it and ran it till it heated up and no rainbows. Oil is kinda old but my car doesnt turn oil black it just slightly darkens the gold in its 3000miles. im lost and need info. please help.. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>god_of_war_60</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-17T18:02:28-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>7</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>help me solve my problem</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462596</link> 
  <description>ok so my cluster illumination lights, heads up display and odometer dont work. and no its not the capacitator thing on my hud because when i turn my key off it will flash. all my gauges work, all my interior, exterior, radio and dashlights work.ok so heres what i have tried so far.1. checked all the fuses and there ok2. tried 2 different TCU's (not the problem)3. checked out the wiring and there doesnt seem to be any breaks or anything.4. all the wires coming from the illumination switch to the cluster read 9.1V(should it be 12V )5. the ground wires have 0 resistance.dont know if this will help  </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ ok so my cluster illumination lights, heads up display and odometer dont work. and no its not the capacitator thing on my hud because when i turn my key off it will flash. all my gauges work, all my interior, exterior, radio and dashlights work.<p/>ok so heres what i have tried so far.<p/>1. checked all the fuses and there ok<br/>2. tried 2 different TCU's (not the problem)<br/>3. checked out the wiring and there doesnt seem to be any breaks or anything.<br/>4. all the wires coming from the illumination switch to the cluster read 9.1V(should it be 12V? )<br/>5. the ground wires have 0 resistance.<p/>dont know if this will help<br/> <IMG SRC="http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/1691/errg.png" BORDER="0"/>  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>89 coupe</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-16T18:30:20-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>need advice</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462593</link> 
  <description>I just bought a 91 240sx with a blown engine, i rebuilt the engine and in the process of putting it all back together. Im kinda strapped for money but looking for advice on some cheap things i can do for now, till paychecks start looking bigger... I really wanna turn it into a drift car and right now its bone stock, please help...keep in mind i have very little extra money, so im really a dyi kinda guy </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ I just bought a 91 240sx with a blown engine, i rebuilt the engine and in the process of putting it all back together. Im kinda strapped for money but looking for advice on some cheap things i can do for now, till paychecks start looking bigger... I really wanna turn it into a drift car and right now its bone stock, please help...keep in mind i have very little extra money, so im really a dyi kinda guy  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>jrankins05</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-16T19:06:07-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Cluster question...</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462581</link> 
  <description>Hey guys, I have a 93 DOHC coupe. It had a HUD (which is for sale) but im converting it to analog. I bought a DOHC cluster but I only have a SOHC harness for it. Will this work how can I wire it To make matters more complicated I would like to do the HUD with analog but not a must since I cant seem to find any info from anywhere on how to wire it. </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Hey guys, I have a 93 DOHC coupe. It had a HUD (which is for sale) but im converting it to analog. I bought a DOHC cluster but I only have a SOHC harness for it. Will this work? how can I wire it? To make matters more complicated I would like to do the HUD with analog but not a must since I cant seem to find any info from anywhere on how to wire it.  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>rickgerhardt</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-16T19:23:47-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>NO ELECTRIC POWER</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462580</link> 
  <description>i just bought a 93 240sx coupe, 5spd. i was installing a remote start system into it, everything was going just fine until i hooked up the rest of the wires for the remote start. now, i have NO POWER running from the fuse and relay box under the driver side kick panel. i even removed the remote start, and still have no power running from the relay box inside the car near the firewall to the ignition harness to the ignition switch, anyone have an idea as to what it could be already tried replacing the ignition relay, still nothing.  </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ i just bought a 93 240sx coupe, 5spd. i was installing a remote start system into it, everything was going just fine until i hooked up the rest of the wires for the remote start. now, i have NO POWER running from the fuse and relay box under the driver side kick panel. i even removed the remote start, and still have no power running from the relay box inside the car near the firewall to the ignition harness to the ignition switch, anyone have an idea as to what it could be? already tried replacing the ignition relay, still nothing. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif" BORDER="0"/>  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>silvia_guy</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-16T17:37:06-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Problem w/ my 240sx</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462563</link> 
  <description>My girlfriend's 93 240sx has been dying lately.  sometimes its a hard starting  but it cranks, and sometime it just die while you're driving it, but you wait a couple minutes it runs again.  the distrubutor assembly has been replaced a year ago and i even changed the spark plugs.  i recently replaced the module next to ignition coil and i thought it fixed the problem...then a week later it died on me again, same problem.  it usually happen once or twice a week.  i really appreciate some feed back...thnx guys</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ My girlfriend's 93 240sx has been dying lately.  sometimes its a hard starting  but it cranks, and sometime it just die while you're driving it, but you wait a couple minutes it runs again.  the distrubutor assembly has been replaced a year ago and i even changed the spark plugs.  i recently replaced the module next to ignition coil and i thought it fixed the problem...then a week later it died on me again, same problem.  it usually happen once or twice a week.  i really appreciate some feed back...thnx guys ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>invisibleman009</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-16T17:29:30-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Easiest way to replace exhaust manifold gasket on SR20DET</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462518</link> 
  <description>My exhaust manifold gasket is leaking.   Is it possible to just remove the nuts, pull the manifold out enough to squeeze the old gasket out and slip the new gasket in,  or do I have to disconnect everything - Oil lines, Coolant lines, Downpipe, etc just to replace the head to manifold gasket  Thanks.</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ <br/>My exhaust manifold gasket is leaking.   Is it possible to just remove the nuts, pull the manifold out enough to squeeze the old gasket out and slip the new gasket in,  or do I have to disconnect everything - Oil lines, Coolant lines, Downpipe, etc just to replace the head to manifold gasket?  Thanks. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>keithdigital</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-16T12:27:22-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Sittin in a garage for 2 years</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462505</link> 
  <description>I have a 1990 Nissan 240sx with a 93 ka24de motor the wiring harness is switched and ecu. I have brian crower stage 2 cams and spring kit and a guy came and looked at my timing said the cams were not from same year as the idler sprocket cause it wasnt lining up and if its not the same year it wont run strong at all. Did they ship the newer cams i got my motor from a junk yard could it not be a 93  I have had so many problems out of this car getting it to run right i just wish something would go right. put way to much money in it for it to keep messing up</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ I have a 1990 Nissan 240sx with a 93 ka24de motor the wiring harness is switched and ecu. I have brian crower stage 2 cams and spring kit and a guy came and looked at my timing said the cams were not from same year as the idler sprocket cause it wasnt lining up and if its not the same year it wont run strong at all. Did they ship the newer cams? i got my motor from a junk yard could it not be a 93?  I have had so many problems out of this car getting it to run right i just wish something would go right. put way to much money in it for it to keep messing up ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>jrad240sx</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-16T12:43:48-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>240sx MAF sensor</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462498</link> 
  <description>Hi, I'm new 240sx proud owner.Do you know if 1998+ Altima MAF will work in my 1995 240sx without modsI read somewhere this is true.</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Hi, I'm new 240sx proud owner.<br/>Do you know if 1998+ Altima MAF will work in my 1995 240sx without mods?<br/>I read somewhere this is true. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>mxli_nissan_240sx</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-20T05:16:01-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>8</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>popping noise</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462458</link> 
  <description>ok so i just replaced both front calipers on my car thinking this was the cause of the noise but it wasn't.  when i hit the brakes kind of hard my car makes a pop noise.  and when going in reverse then hitting the brakes it makes the pop sound.  i don't know what this could be guys anyone know  </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ ok so i just replaced both front calipers on my car thinking this was the cause of the noise but it wasn't.  when i hit the brakes kind of hard my car makes a pop noise.  and when going in reverse then hitting the brakes it makes the pop sound.  i don't know what this could be guys anyone know?   ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>jamesblonde82</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-16T18:51:23-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>if i turbo my ka will it still pass smog</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462429</link> 
  <description>if i turbo my ka will it still pass smog in california i dont want to put all the money and time into it and it not pass so any information would help thanks for the time </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ if i turbo my ka will it still pass smog in california i dont want to put all the money and time into it and it not pass so any information would help thanks for the time  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>jlehr</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-15T23:33:55-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Which is What</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462388</link> 
  <description>I bought these off rummel autosport... and they dont match. They are supposed to be for a ka24de.. but the pressure plate doesnt match up to the flywheel.the flywheel has markings saying 109 m 3 40f...the pressure plate has markings 52f19the disc has 91f14i think the clutch assembly is for an sr20... can anyone help with these things.. i dont want to be half way through my 5 speed swap and find out this stuff isnt right</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ I bought these off rummel autosport... and they dont match. They are supposed to be for a ka24de.. but the pressure plate doesnt match up to the flywheel.<p/>the flywheel has markings saying 109 m 3 40f...<p/>the pressure plate has markings 52f19<p/>the disc has 91f14<p/>i think the clutch assembly is for an sr20... can anyone help with these things.. i dont want to be half way through my 5 speed swap and find out this stuff isnt right<p/><IMG SRC="http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a104/BiggJerryC/2009-11-15221039.jpg" BORDER="0"/><br/><IMG SRC="http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a104/BiggJerryC/2009-11-15221052.jpg" BORDER="0"/><br/><IMG SRC="http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a104/BiggJerryC/2009-11-15221125.jpg" BORDER="0"/><br/><IMG SRC="http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a104/BiggJerryC/2009-11-15221132.jpg" BORDER="0"/> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>biggjerryc</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-17T22:56:44-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>5</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>96 240sx rb25det swap</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462386</link> 
  <description>ok so im fairly new at nissan and such but i was wondering what would it entail to do an rb25det swap into a 96  240sx what parts would i need besides the engine thanks for all the help</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ ok so im fairly new at nissan and such but i was wondering what would it entail to do an rb25det swap into a 96  240sx? what parts would i need besides the engine? thanks for all the help ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>Sargent</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-15T21:13:54-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Timing belt rubbing problem!! please help!</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462385</link> 
  <description>So i swapped this ca18det into my s13 and i just got it running and the only problem is that the timing belt is rubbing on the timing belt cover. I have adjusted the belt countless times and putting it very far back on the pulleys and tensioners but for some reason after about a min of it running, it suddenly would rub against the timing belt cover again i don't really know what i have been doing wrong. The belt is brand new. Please help me as i have been waiting to drive this car for so long but i still can't because this problem is holding me back!</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ So i swapped this ca18det into my s13 and i just got it running and the only problem is that the timing belt is rubbing on the timing belt cover. I have adjusted the belt countless times and putting it very far back on the pulleys and tensioners but for some reason after about a min of it running, it suddenly would rub against the timing belt cover again i don't really know what i have been doing wrong. The belt is brand new. Please help me as i have been waiting to drive this car for so long but i still can't because this problem is holding me back! ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>icemhan_21</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-16T16:03:24-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>96 KA24de air/fuel problem</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462382</link> 
  <description>Ok, my 96 ka24de is running a little lean at start up and normal driving. At WOT the a/f gauge maxes out in rich. It is a NA engine with straight pipe to a magnaflow muffler, an eBay intake, and altima electric fans. what could cause this I pulled the plugs for a compression test and got 160 on all cylinders and the plugs look a little white.</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Ok, my 96 ka24de is running a little lean at start up and normal driving. At WOT the a/f gauge maxes out in rich. It is a NA engine with straight pipe to a magnaflow muffler, an eBay intake, and altima electric fans. what could cause this? I pulled the plugs for a compression test and got 160 on all cylinders and the plugs look a little white. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>240s_are_the_best</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-15T20:03:47-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Ka24de wont rev up MAF ISSUE</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462369</link> 
  <description>I did a ka24de swap into my 1990 240sx because i warped the head. The engine will idle decent other than running a bit rich. it wont rev up past 2500 rpm. it seems like a rev limiter. i bypassed the sensor and the car would rev up but would not idle running exremely rich. so i went and got another maf from a nissan maxama with a ka24de to see if that would fix the problem. but nothing could it be anything else i am stumped.i dont think this would be a problem but i got a cold air intake and its got a dent in it near the end.any ideAS would be great, i am going to get another MAF to make sure. </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ I did a ka24de swap into my 1990 240sx because i warped the head. The engine will idle decent other than running a bit rich. it wont rev up past 2500 rpm. it seems like a rev limiter. <p/>i bypassed the sensor and the car would rev up but would not idle running exremely rich. so i went and got another maf from a nissan maxama with a ka24de to see if that would fix the problem. but nothing could it be anything else i am stumped.<p/>i dont think this would be a problem but i got a cold air intake and its got a dent in it near the end.<p/>any ideAS would be great, i am going to get another MAF to make sure.  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>wdyrland</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-20T14:10:55-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>7</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>95 S14... CKP &amp; EGR issues...</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462363</link> 
  <description>Ok my 240 is throwing 2 codes: P0335B-ckp a a circuit malfunction                                                   P0400-EGRnow I got the replacement CKP which i understand is located on top of the bell housing. i havent gotten around to taking care of it. my question is this: Are these common problems that occur together and is the egr something that can be fixed with a thorough cleaning I read it can be fixed that way. sometimes.(Im not saying 100%)</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Ok my 240 is throwing 2 codes: P0335B-ckp a a circuit malfunction<br/>                                                   P0400-EGR<br/>now I got the replacement CKP which i understand is located on top of the bell housing. i havent gotten around to taking care of it. my question is this: Are these common problems that occur together? and is the egr something that can be fixed with a thorough cleaning? I read it can be fixed that way. sometimes.(Im not saying 100%) ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>S14_T3RR0R</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-20T11:04:44-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>injector numbers and types interchangable</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462316</link> 
  <description>I have an 89 240Sx. the front injector1 has been replaced.  I think I've got a couple that stick open. I've flooded out several times and wont start unless I pull the fuel pump fuse and run it until it clears.  Doesn't seem to respond to flood clear when this happens.  it doesn't happen all the time, but it does happen when I don't want it too!!!!  Anyway I've got another set of injectors "reportedly for a 240SX" but the numbers are different.Does anyone know the numbers or who makes the original injectorsAnybody have a list and the flow ratesAny help would be great. ThanksSS33  </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ I have an 89 240Sx. the front injector1 has been replaced.  I think I've got a couple that stick open. I've flooded out several times and wont start unless I pull the fuel pump fuse and run it until it clears.  Doesn't seem to respond to flood clear when this happens.  it doesn't happen all the time, but it does happen when I don't want it too!!!! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/bash.gif" BORDER="0"/> <br/>Anyway I've got another set of injectors "reportedly for a 240SX" but the numbers are different.<br/>Does anyone know the numbers or who makes the original injectors?<br/>Anybody have a list and the flow rates?<p/>Any help would be great. Thanks<br/>SS33 <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/hide.gif" BORDER="0"/>  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>sharpshooter33</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-16T02:28:23-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>6</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>what are the best rods and pistons for a turbo setup</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462295</link> 
  <description>hi im new to this forum i have looked around on it and read a few different things and was wondering if anyone knows what rods and pistons are best for a turbo set up and what compression ratio is best.  and i also read somewhere that someone said a sohc was more turbo happy than a dohc but which would make more power with the same effort any help is appreciated thanks for the time   </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ hi im new to this forum i have looked around on it and read a few different things and was wondering if anyone knows what rods and pistons are best for a turbo set up and what compression ratio is best.  and i also read somewhere that someone said a sohc was more turbo happy than a dohc but which would make more power with the same effort??? any help is appreciated thanks for the time  <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.nicoclub.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0"/>  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>jlehr</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-15T14:21:09-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>engine running rough after installing new injectors</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462259</link> 
  <description>i just installed new fuel injectors and it fixed my problem. i ran my car for bout two hours here and then came home. when i went to restart my car to go back out it runs rough. i have no vac leaks already fixed them, my compression is fine, and so are plugs and wires. when the cars on its almost pours gas from the exhaust like its getting too much gas. can anybody give me some advice on what to do next </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ i just installed new fuel injectors and it fixed my problem. i ran my car for bout two hours here and then came home. when i went to restart my car to go back out it runs rough. i have no vac leaks already fixed them, my compression is fine, and so are plugs and wires. when the cars on its almost pours gas from the exhaust like its getting too much gas. can anybody give me some advice on what to do next?  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>rabeatyourmeato</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-19T08:24:53-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>11</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Suspension</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462211</link> 
  <description>Can a left front strut be used on the right side I assume the only difference is the brake line bracket that is reversed Its on a 95 240. I have hks coilovers and the front ones are so stiff that the front end just bounces when you hit bumps, or on roads that arent perfectly smooth, and im getting tired of it. If you push down on the front end, the tire is the only thing that moves, and the coilovers are set to full soft.</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Can a left front strut be used on the right side? I assume the only difference is the brake line bracket that is reversed? Its on a 95 240. I have hks coilovers and the front ones are so stiff that the front end just bounces when you hit bumps, or on roads that arent perfectly smooth, and im getting tired of it. If you push down on the front end, the tire is the only thing that moves, and the coilovers are set to full soft. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>hksdrift240</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-15T12:58:05-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>6</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Wiring help gauge cluster dont work</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462188</link> 
  <description>Ok i put a ka24de in my 90 hatch for some odd reason the gauge cluster doesnt work the gas gauge stays pined at the top or at the botton. As soon as  i plug the front blinker pigtails in the rear blinkers don't work. I thought replacing all the wiring would fix it i replaced the whole body harness with new fuse box's and relays. Its still doing the same thing. What should i look for and what should i test first. I tried new gauge clusters also. Any help would be appreciated </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Ok i put a ka24de in my 90 hatch for some odd reason the gauge cluster doesnt work the gas gauge stays pined at the top or at the botton. As soon as  i plug the front blinker pigtails in the rear blinkers don't work. I thought replacing all the wiring would fix it i replaced the whole body harness with new fuse box's and relays. Its still doing the same thing. What should i look for and what should i test first. I tried new gauge clusters also. Any help would be appreciated  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>aaronscomp</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-14T18:08:54-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Aem ems</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462186</link> 
  <description>ok so i have a question but it may just be a simple no brainer but i need to know so i won't pass up a steal. i have a s13 with the red-top sr20det in it and i wanna know if a aem ems off a s14 woul;d work for me</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ ok so i have a question but it may just be a simple no brainer but i need to know so i won't pass up a steal. i have a s13 with the red-top sr20det in it and i wanna know if a aem ems off a s14 woul;d work for me ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>sr kid 88</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-14T19:41:58-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Rods scratched are they still good help</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462182</link> 
  <description>Ok i bought some pistons and rods from a Nico member a few months back when i got them i realized they were scored from a spun bearing there not deep or anything. Are they still usable since the bearings will just be going over the scrathes. Thanks </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Ok i bought some pistons and rods from a Nico member a few months back when i got them i realized they were scored from a spun bearing there not deep or anything. Are they still usable since the bearings will just be going over the scrathes. Thanks  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>aaronscomp</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-15T14:54:54-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>5</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Megasquirt install questions</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462174</link> 
  <description>I have several questions for those of you who're running a Mega-Squirted KA24DE.The car I plan to MS is a 1992 240SX SE hatch with a completely stock KA,  Super Hicas, cruise and A/C.  The car runs good but future plans are to install a turbo, remove the Hicas and use MS-II to manage it.First step is to install the MS and get it running right. I want to keep the stock instruments and make as few changes as possible to the engine, meaning I want to retain the emissions stuff and the swirl valves until the turbo conversion is done.So, here are the questions:1. Has anyone retained a functional stock tach and used MS  How was it done2. Is it required to retain the stock ECU to control the emissons stuff and swirl valves   If not, how are they controlled3. If I did a piggy back install and disabled the stock ECUs ability to control the injectors and coil will a check engine code be generated  4. Would a piggy back install cause any other problemsHere's what I'm thinking:I'll run the MS-II Extra code which provides the ability to produce a tach output.  I should be able to watch the stock tach signal with a scope and then using the correct resistor or a pot reproduce the signal level from the MS.I have an Inovate LM-1 wide band.  If I have to do a piggyback to keep the stock systems I'll feed it's simulated narrow band signal to the stock ECU to keep it from complaining.  I'll also splice into the CAS signal from the distributor for the feed to the MS and retain the input to the stock ECU, again to keep it happy.When it comes time to install the Turbo should I remove or somehow disable the swirl valves  What about the EGR valveAnything I'm forgetting or didn't mention that should be accounted forIs there any demand for a write-up of this project once I get it runningI've seen several Megasquirt threads here but none with very much useful information.  There is the write up from DIYAUTOTUNE but it doesn't address integration with any systems other than the injectors and coil.</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ I have several questions for those of you who're running a Mega-Squirted KA24DE.<p/>The car I plan to MS is a 1992 240SX SE hatch with a completely stock KA,  Super Hicas, cruise and A/C.  The car runs good but future plans are to install a turbo, remove the Hicas and use MS-II to manage it.<p/>First step is to install the MS and get it running right. I want to keep the stock instruments and make as few changes as possible to the engine, meaning I want to retain the emissions stuff and the swirl valves until the turbo conversion is done.<br/>So, here are the questions:<br/>1. Has anyone retained a functional stock tach and used MS?<br/>  How was it done?<br/>2. Is it required to retain the stock ECU to control the emissons stuff and swirl valves?<br/>   If not, how are they controlled?<br/>3. If I did a piggy back install and disabled the stock ECUs ability to control the injectors and coil will a check engine code be generated?  <br/>4. Would a piggy back install cause any other problems?<p/>Here's what I'm thinking:<br/>I'll run the MS-II Extra code which provides the ability to produce a tach output.  I should be able to watch the stock tach signal with a scope and then using the correct resistor or a pot reproduce the signal level from the MS.<br/>I have an Inovate LM-1 wide band.  If I have to do a piggyback to keep the stock systems I'll feed it's simulated narrow band signal to the stock ECU to keep it from complaining.  <br/>I'll also splice into the CAS signal from the distributor for the feed to the MS and retain the input to the stock ECU, again to keep it happy.<p/>When it comes time to install the Turbo should I remove or somehow disable the swirl valves?  What about the EGR valve?<p/>Anything I'm forgetting or didn't mention that should be accounted for?<p/>Is there any demand for a write-up of this project once I get it running?<br/>I've seen several Megasquirt threads here but none with very much useful information.  <br/>There is the write up from DIYAUTOTUNE but it doesn't address integration with any systems other than the injectors and coil. ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>wheelman</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-15T19:25:17-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>4</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>No interior light</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462173</link> 
  <description>I've got a 95 240 and my interior light use to work, but then it stopped, and i also noticed the open door light stays on too(it use to turn off when you shut the door). I checked the fuse, and of course it was blown, and it blows the second you put a new one in, no matter if the door is open or not. I even took out the dome light and tried it again, just to eliminate that too, but the fuse still blew. Any idea what, or where to check </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ I've got a 95 240 and my interior light use to work, but then it stopped, and i also noticed the open door light stays on too(it use to turn off when you shut the door). I checked the fuse, and of course it was blown, and it blows the second you put a new one in, no matter if the door is open or not. I even took out the dome light and tried it again, just to eliminate that too, but the fuse still blew. Any idea what, or where to check?  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>hksdrift240</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-15T11:52:49-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>5</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Stock stereo replacement</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462117</link> 
  <description>I need some help with the wiring on my stock stereo.We just bought a new radio/reciever but the plugs aren't the same (duh).Now I need to find the specific wiring schematic for the radio - and I'm having trouble with it.My ride is a 1996 240sx.Thanks for any help</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ I need some help with the wiring on my stock stereo.<p/>We just bought a new radio/reciever but the plugs aren't the same (duh).<p/>Now I need to find the specific wiring schematic for the radio - and I'm having trouble with it.<p/>My ride is a 1996 240sx.<p/>Thanks for any help ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>ChiWeiSz</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-14T18:52:55-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>6</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>so lost</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462097</link> 
  <description>ok so my hud and cluster lights wont light up anymore and my odometer and trip dont roll. heres a little bit of history. i had my radio pulled out and all the wires were just hanging there not capped. my hud wouldnt work then but when i wired my radio up it worked. it doesnt seem to have too much of a problem coming on it would just take a couple of seconds some times. all my warning lights come on and all my guages still work. so i dont think it is my cluster. also when i have my interior lights fuse pulled out and i turn my key off i can see my hud flash. so its obviously working its just not getting any power. now ive been looking at a wiring diagram and i cant seem to find if there is a main power to the cluster. (im kinda a noob to wiring diagrams.) does the cluster just get power from the illumination switch i am going to be pulling out my cluster and checking all the wiring. and which illumination switch is it the one on the steering column or the brightness on the dash thanks </description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ ok so my hud and cluster lights wont light up anymore and my odometer and trip dont roll. heres a little bit of history. i had my radio pulled out and all the wires were just hanging there not capped. my hud wouldnt work then but when i wired my radio up it worked. it doesnt seem to have too much of a problem coming on it would just take a couple of seconds some times. all my warning lights come on and all my guages still work. so i dont think it is my cluster. <p/>also when i have my interior lights fuse pulled out and i turn my key off i can see my hud flash. so its obviously working its just not getting any power. <p/>now ive been looking at a wiring diagram and i cant seem to find if there is a main power to the cluster. (im kinda a noob to wiring diagrams.) <br/>does the cluster just get power from the illumination switch? i am going to be pulling out my cluster and checking all the wiring. and which illumination switch is it? the one on the steering column or the brightness on the dash? <p/>thanks  ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>89 coupe</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-14T12:21:03-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>4</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>distributor cap bold size s13</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462093</link> 
  <description>im pretty sure one of my distributor cap bolts is now in my neighbors dogs stomach, so...I'm not gonna look for it, but does anyone know the size and pitch of the bolt for a replacement</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ im pretty sure one of my distributor cap bolts is now in my neighbors dogs stomach, so...I'm not gonna look for it, but does anyone know the size and pitch of the bolt for a replacement? ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>chukidrifter420</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-14T09:49:38-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>2</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>240sx L28 swap  Thoughts</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462089</link> 
  <description>I am trying to collect all the pieces to put a 79 280zx mtr in the lightest year 240sx . I have never heard of this being done but someone must have I'm looking for some tips to save myself some trial and error....... Anyone</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ I am trying to collect all the pieces to put a 79 280zx mtr in the lightest year 240sx . I have never heard of this being done but someone must have I'm looking for some tips to save myself some trial and error....... Anyone? ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>Killg0re666</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-16T17:47:05-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>8</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>Quick Sparoc Seat question</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462086</link> 
  <description>Im getting the sparco fighter seats for my 89 240 hatch..... but im not sure what brakets i need to get for it so can someone help me out</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ Im getting the sparco fighter seats for my 89 240 hatch..... but im not sure what brakets i need to get for it???? so can someone help me out ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>Pbmattc</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-14T07:05:43-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>1</slash:comments> 
</item><item>
  <title>California-Smog Testing Madness Story &amp; Possible new laws-The Nightmare</title> 
  <link>http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=462071</link> 
  <description>S13  KA24E engine         I went to test only--passed visual--failed High NoxApplied to CAP--got letter for $500 of repairsWent to Gold Shield station--left it for 2 daysFailed visual at Gold Shield--the tech wanted to remove all my gauges / reroute all vacuum lines / remove Air Fuel gauge wire from the Oxygen Sensor.  It failed Visual at Gold Shield because he said the CARB number on my INJEN intake was invalid. I have the ARB website link with the Executive Order. The EO number is valid.  I picked up the Car and the shop kept my CAP letter.I took the car to my mechanic and replaced 2 leaking injectors, the MAF, spark plug wires, EGR solenoid, and cleaned out the EGR passages inside the manifold.  CEL turned off and car ran perfectly.Note- I had replaced the IACV and the Oxygen sensor and the PCV valve months earlier.  CAT is 2 years old.The original Smog Test Only shop which would do a retest for $11 had been closed for 2 or more weeks--so I went and paid $38 to another Smog Test Only shop.I passed the visual inspection even though the Gold Shield shop had written that I tampered with 8 things and they said my "Timing" was off because my idle was off.  No Timing degree numbers were listed in the Smog paperwork.  DMV refused to give me temporary operating permit [TOP] without the original CAP letter.Called CAP--they told me to pickup the letter at the shop. CAP put me back into their program because the 3rd smog test had passed my car on visual inspection.Returned to DMV with CAP letter and got a 60 day TOP [temporary operating permit]  DMV wanted $50 for it if not in the CAP programI called BAR and they sent out an inspector directly to me to photograph my engine.  BAR has reviewed the photos and said I should take it to a BAR referee.  The inspector said to tell the next Gold Shield shop to call him personally.I went to a new Gold Shield shop on Nov. 13...it was a friday.  The Master smog tech there said I tampered with the Oxygen Sensor and didn't like my silicone vacuum hoses.  He said the CARB number on my INJEN intake was invalid. I have the ARB website link with the Executive Order. The EO number is valid. He asked me for a CARB sticker for the air cleaner on the Injen Intake.He said that his shop won't work on my car and told me to go to the BAR referee.  He refused to call the BAR Inspector.  He said he wanted to work fast and not spend the day inspecting my car in order to repair it.  My 3rd failed smog test I had High Nox and the CO was a little high only at 15mph.The car runs better than new. But the emissions are over the limit. The Gold Shield shop told me on Friday the 13th, that California now requires an OBD2 Cat on all cars even though I have an OBD1 and it will cost $300.  Is this true  The next step is I am seeing a BAR referee for a complimentary visual inspection.I will update this next week.Modified by WhiteKnight at 12:52 AM 11/14/2009Modified by WhiteKnight at 1:37 AM 11/14/2009Modified by WhiteKnight at 2:35 AM 11/14/2009Modified by WhiteKnight at 2:35 AM 11/14/2009
Modified by WhiteKnight at 3:20 AM 11/14/2009</description> 
  <content:encoded>
  <![CDATA[ S13  KA24E engine         <p/>I went to test only--passed visual--failed High Nox<p/>Applied to CAP--got letter for $500 of repairs<p/>Went to Gold Shield station--left it for 2 days<p/>Failed visual at Gold Shield--the tech wanted to remove all my gauges / reroute all vacuum lines / remove Air Fuel gauge wire from the Oxygen Sensor.  It failed Visual at Gold Shield because he said the CARB number on my INJEN intake was invalid. I have the ARB website link with the Executive Order. The EO number is valid.  I picked up the Car and the shop kept my CAP letter.<p/>I took the car to my mechanic and replaced 2 leaking injectors, the MAF, spark plug wires, EGR solenoid, and cleaned out the EGR passages inside the manifold.  CEL turned off and car ran perfectly.<p/>Note- I had replaced the IACV and the Oxygen sensor and the PCV valve months earlier.  CAT is 2 years old.<p/>The original Smog Test Only shop which would do a retest for $11 had been closed for 2 or more weeks--so I went and paid $38 to another Smog Test Only shop.<p/>I passed the visual inspection even though the Gold Shield shop had written that I tampered with 8 things and they said my "Timing" was off because my idle was off.  No Timing degree numbers were listed in the Smog paperwork.<br/>  <br/>DMV refused to give me temporary operating permit [TOP] without the original CAP letter.<p/>Called CAP--they told me to pickup the letter at the shop. CAP put me back into their program because the 3rd smog test had passed my car on visual inspection.<p/>Returned to DMV with CAP letter and got a 60 day TOP [temporary operating permit]  DMV wanted $50 for it if not in the CAP program<p/>I called BAR and they sent out an inspector directly to me to photograph my engine.  BAR has reviewed the photos and said I should take it to a BAR referee.  The inspector said to tell the next Gold Shield shop to call him personally.<p/>I went to a new Gold Shield shop on Nov. 13...it was a friday.  The Master smog tech there said I tampered with the Oxygen Sensor and didn't like my silicone vacuum hoses.  <br/>He said the CARB number on my INJEN intake was invalid. I have the ARB website link with the Executive Order. The EO number is valid. He asked me for a CARB sticker for the air cleaner on the Injen Intake.<br/>He said that his shop won't work on my car and told me to go to the BAR referee.  He refused to call the BAR Inspector.  He said he wanted to work fast and not spend the day inspecting my car in order to repair it.  <p/>My 3rd failed smog test I had High Nox and the CO was a little high only at 15mph.<br/>The car runs better than new. But the emissions are over the limit. <p/>The Gold Shield shop told me on Friday the 13th, that California now requires an OBD2 Cat on all cars even though I have an OBD1 and it will cost $300.  <br/>Is this true?  <p/>The next step is I am seeing a BAR referee for a complimentary visual inspection.<p/>I will update this next week.<p/><i>Modified by WhiteKnight at 12:52 AM 11/14/2009</i><p/><br/><i>Modified by WhiteKnight at 1:37 AM 11/14/2009</i><p/><br/><i>Modified by WhiteKnight at 2:35 AM 11/14/2009</i><p/><br/><i>Modified by WhiteKnight at 2:35 AM 11/14/2009</i><BR/><BR/>
<i>Modified by WhiteKnight at 3:20 AM 11/14/2009</i> ]]> 
  </content:encoded>
  <category>240SX Technical Forum</category>
  <dc:creator>WhiteKnight</dc:creator> 
  <dc:date>2009-11-16T21:43:25-08:00</dc:date> 
  <slash:comments>8</slash:comments> 
</item>  </channel>
</rss>