EDIT:This is a removal on a S13KA24DE engine that is minus the A/C and emissions systems.

Tools needed:
Jack
Jackstands
Wrenchs
Socket wrench
Sockets(different sizes)
Hammer
Screwdrivers(flathead/phillips)
Needle nose pliers
Prybar
Drain pan
Line wrench 10mm

My car is a '93 240SX with a KA24DE engine. This isn't a complete write-up on removing the engine because my car doesn't have emissions or the A/C components so those of you with those will have to look elsewhere about how to handle those systems. I'm just a regular joe doing this swap in the driveway of my apartment with handtools and time.


The first thing I did was to relieve the fuel pressure so when I remove the fuel lines in the engine bay I won't have fuel squirting all over the place.

To relieve fuel pressure go to the engine bay and pull the fuel pump fuse 15A from the fuse block, loosen your fuel tank cap, crank the car and run it until it stalls out.

Next, I removed the battery cables and pulled the battery. You can put the fuel pump fuse back now.

Done!

If you have a front strut tower bar now would be a good time to remove it as well. Six 14mm bolts.

Use a 14mm wrench to loosen the throttle cable nut.

Done!

I removed the MAF plug from the MAF sensor.

Then the air filter...

and the piping to free up some room.

Done!
After removing the battery, the throttle cable and the intake I concentrated on draining all my fluids, powersteering, transmission, oil, coolant and clutch.

I began with the powersteering fluid by disconecting the two small hoses coming from the P/S resevoir...

and draining the fluid into a bottle.

Done! Gatorade's newest flavor...P/S grape mango...have some!?

Of course there's some fluid remaining in the P/S pump and the steering rack so I just capped them off to prevent any spillage. Go ahead and remove the powersteering banjo bolt with a 23mm socket. Now you can take the P/S pressure hose off the P/S pump.

Modified by positron_ at 10:54 PM 3/17/2009

S13 300ZX Rear Brake Install
S13 Wheel Stud Replacement
S13 Fender Brace Install
S13 Subframe Collar Install
S13 Power Folding Mirror Install
S13 KA24DE Engine Removal
S13 SR20DET Prep

Two bolts here.

Now you can pull the shifter out. I'm certain again that someone has messed up this car in the past because there was no snap rings on my shifter that needed to be removed which was quite odd.

Finished with the shifter removal.

Now I'm going to remove the grounds.

I started with the battery cable grounded to the engine. 10mm socket.

10mm socket here. Not sure where this ground is coming from?

10mm or a phillipshead screwdriver for the shock tower.

10mm wrench for the alternator ground.

Alternator grounds.

10mm for the starter ground.

Use a phillipshead screwdriver to remove this ground from the engine to the firewall.

Battery tray.

This is another ground on the rear of the engine near the back of the exhaust manifold.

After that I moved on to the engine harness itself.

I started by disconneting all the plugs of the upper engine harness in the engine bay.

Two plugs near the battery tray for light control I believe.

Done!

Not sure what this plug is for?

Or this one?

Coolant temp sensor and coolant temp guage sender.

The four fuel injector harnesses.

You need a 10mm socket to remove two bolts on this cover before you can get the injector harnesses off.

Distributor.

MAF.

Powersteering pump.

The ignition coil has two harnesses, this one...

and this one. You'll also have to remove the ignition coil, two 10mm bolts take it right off...

so that you can remove the ground on it. Go ahead and disconnect the spark plug wire while you're at it.

The rear of the valve cover.

The O2 sensor.

Done!

Now to disconnect the harness from the ECU and pull it through the firewall.

Modified by positronone at 11:35 AM 12/17/2007

Modified by positron_ at 2:59 AM 9/30/2008

Modified by positron_ at 3:09 AM 9/30/2008

Remove the four bolts holding the glovebox reinforcement.

Next you need to remove the clips and bolts holding the kick panel on.

Rocker panel.

Door jam.

Lower kick panel.

Upper kick panel near the kick panel light.

Done, but don't yank it out...

because you have to disconnect the harness for the kick panel light.

ECU and wiring harness.

Use a phillipshead screwdriver to remove the two bolts holding the ECU to the chassis. This is the lower bolt...

and this is the upper bolt.

Done!

Disconnect this brown harness.

Use a 10mm socket to remove the bolt holding the wiring harness to the ECU.

Done!

ECU

There is another harness that needs to be unplugged here.

There is a fastener on the wiring harness that holds it to the chassis here...remove it.

Use a prybar to remove the rubber stopper on the firewall.

Slowly start pulling the wiring harness through the hole in the firewall.

You may have to go inside and work it through but eventually it comes out.

Done! Upper engine harness. If you plan to have the wiring done through a wiring service you will need your SR, CA, RB, etc. wiring harness and the KA upper engine wiring harness to send out to them.

Modified by positron_ at 3:14 AM 9/30/2008

Modified by positron_ at 11:03 PM 3/17/2009

Finally, I removed the motor/transmission mount bolts.

You need a 19mm socket to remove the four transmission crossmember bolts. My car only had 3 crossmember bolts on it....WTF!!!

You need a 15mm socket to remove the left and right motor mount nuts, one under the exhaust manifold and the other located under the intake manifold near the oil filter.
From this point the engine is ready to be chained and hoisted out of the engine bay. I will update this thread with pics when I get a hoist and pull the motor.

Nissan

FTW

+3

KA Motor Part Out Here
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zer...-sale

Yes this has been me for a more than a year on Nico...

Simply Amazing positronone.

I only have on question, I do have and want to keep my air conditioning and emissions controls for it is a daily and is there any advice to add to this already amazing thread about removal of the ka with the A/C and emissions controls or it simply just a couple more electronic clip disconnections.

THANK YOU!!!!!

I just wanted to know if you had a write up on the digital climate control. I haven't seen too many people get that working right.

Quote, originally posted by ca-jon23 »

Freakin awesome write-up, I've helped my friend pull 2 KA's and his SR 3 times over the past couple of the years and I still learned a bit with this, I just wanted to know if you had a write up on the digital climate control. I haven't seen too many people get that working right.

I don't personally have a write-up on the climate control install but I did use this one to install mine...Silvia Digital Climate control Instructions http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=94307

you don't have to open up the clutch line or the power steering system. just set it aside.

On the slave cylinder I just take the 2 14mms off and tie it to the car, then theres no clutch bleeding if you don't have the time for it.

And the PS pump I remove and tie to the core support in the battery tray area, that way theres no fluid to spill or replace.

Its a good idea to swap out these fluids when your swapping though but if your just putting the same engine or same type it'll save time later.

You also dont need to drain the engine oil in the car, depending on what your doing it can make it easier or just a wash either way. No biggie really.

Any way very nice writeup, props for taking the time to do it.

~Alex

edit- another thing I do is loop the fuel lines. I put the return rubber line on the outlet of the fuel filter, and the rubber line that goes from the fuel filter to the fuel rail gets connected at both ends to the fuel rail. It minimizes fuel leakage and smell and prevents dirt from getting in there.

For sale: SS down pipe for rb20/25. Custom made and has lots of ground clearance.

Thanks
Rick

Rick

I will be excited to see you put the motor back in.