94 q45 suspension tension rods upper links -- help
94 q45 suspension tension rods upper links -- help
Hello:I have a 1994 q45 purchased used from dealer (certified @55K in 1999-now 85K). I recently experienced "squelching" and grating noise coming from front suspension area going over bumps mostly at highway speed, but sometimes at low speeds (up driveway etc) also.Have replaced both front brake calipers and front shocks, but still have noise. Have been told that I need to replace tension rods and upper links. Can anyone elaborate on what these components are (diagrams/pics if possible, please), and how their failure contributes to the noise I am experiencing. I want to be more informed, to see whether I can perform this repair myself, or take the car to the dealer service center. Thanks all.
-
maxnix
- Posts: 22627
- Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:11 pm
- Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45
Tension Rods and Upper Links
Search this Forum and Infiniti General Forum.
Go to http://www.infinitipartsusa.com and you will see suspension diagrams.
While you are there, order a manual.
Sounds like a Q worth maintaining.
Go to http://www.infinitipartsusa.com and you will see suspension diagrams.
While you are there, order a manual.
Sounds like a Q worth maintaining.
They are known wear items on a Q.
Q suspension is very similar to 7 series BMW.
Good handling in such a large car is achieved only by a sophisticated albeit expensive set-up with more components than many other set-ups.
The good news is,the job is by all accounts not too hard to do for a good DIYer.(Haven' done myself I usually just pay shop but this what I been told.:oface..)
Fred...
PS: driving mom's car is what all newbies do:pface.. the longer you stick around the fancier your ride becomes in that block.
Q suspension is very similar to 7 series BMW.
Good handling in such a large car is achieved only by a sophisticated albeit expensive set-up with more components than many other set-ups.
The good news is,the job is by all accounts not too hard to do for a good DIYer.(Haven' done myself I usually just pay shop but this what I been told.:oface..)
Fred...
PS: driving mom's car is what all newbies do:pface.. the longer you stick around the fancier your ride becomes in that block.
Have inspected parts. Upper links on both sides look fine. I jacked up the car, and tried to wiggle the links--no go, they feel solid. The four bushings for each upper link are solid with no sign of wear. However, the oil-filled bushing on passenger-side tension rod leaking--bushing on driver-side looks old, but no leak. Do you think just the single failure of the passenger bushing can create this noise? (I am hoping that this is all)
My plan: replace both tension rods/bushings for driver/passenger sides. Can I replace the oil-filled bushings only? Do you think I have to replace the upper links as well? Do the replacements of these components (links and tension rods/bushings) have to be done as a set of all 4 items--the upper links looks fine. What do you guys think?
My plan: replace both tension rods/bushings for driver/passenger sides. Can I replace the oil-filled bushings only? Do you think I have to replace the upper links as well? Do the replacements of these components (links and tension rods/bushings) have to be done as a set of all 4 items--the upper links looks fine. What do you guys think?
Fred's right. Unbolt the links and see if the inner sleeves are concentric with the link body. I would replace both rods and both links, and I'm pretty sure you can do just the bushings. Dealerships usually replace the entire rod to save on labor but an at-home mechanic stands to save a little by doing just the bushings.
There is a small boxed service manual, that comes with the car.Its distinct from the owners manual.
On the off chance you never looked there and its still there in your car:
its location is on top of the spare tire inder the trunk mat.
Other wise they can be bought at the parts links mentioned above.
The owners manual is not specifc enough to do these jobs.
Fred...
On the off chance you never looked there and its still there in your car:
its location is on top of the spare tire inder the trunk mat.
Other wise they can be bought at the parts links mentioned above.
The owners manual is not specifc enough to do these jobs.
Fred...
I remember seeing this small manual in my trunk when I first inspected the car. Was one of the item requested to be included as part of package when purchasing the Q (was not there later). Dealer still have not delivered. Have ordered Upper links and oil bushings from scottsdale. Will update by 10/27 of result (positive or negative). Scottsdale no longer have small manual (out of print). Large manual $150+.Oh well. If anyone has a print, I would appreciate a pic of the components with bolts torque requirement. Otherwise, it will be my trustworthy mechanic's sense. Will try to contact Inf.Tampa also. Thanks all.
What do you guys think of the service manuals that is being sold on cd right now? How do you verify the authenticity, or more importantly, the accuracy of the information being provided? Does anyone know anything about this? (I will contact the dealer, but they are the usual out-of-sight-out-of-mind mentality. I would not be suprised if my purchase transaction documents are so hard to find, it would ABC this much time, and it would take DEF this much ... bal bla bla ...)
The manual on CD is a bootleg copy of an old Mitchell's On-Demand manual. Honestly, I don't know why this person is risking going to jail for this. The CDs aren't really easy to work with, are incomplete, and are sometimes downright incorrect. You get what you pay for. For $30 they not a bad thing to have, and I'll probably get others for other brands, but they are no substitute for the factory manual. There are some exploded diagrams that are nice to have, but torque values aren't given, since they assume any shop will have a standard fastener torque range depending on fastener size and grade.