WARNING: do this at your own risk, i am not resposbile for ****, bla bla, you know how it goes. now this guide is only for those that know basic engine wiring, have some clue so far on what is going one but just need to know the specifics to get it started. i will of coarse re-write this, along with EVERYTHING else in a complete PDF guide. i have this memorized and it will be step by step for you guys. for now, i just have this stuck in my head and it might help some people.

ok assuming you already seperated the efi harness from your clip (its the harness that connects to the ECU, all the sensors on the engine and feeds down into under the dash. after doing that and stuffing the ecu plug under the dash and everything is connect on the engine, the maf and boost valve has been extended) follow these steps.

oh for the record. only the maf sensor has to be extended, the o2 plugs in with some rearranging and the boost valve can be brought over to the plug by extending the vacume lines. the maf on the other hand has to be extended, but thats easy, its only 5 wires if i remember correctly.

ok on with the show...

step one: get one of these and remove the twin power connector from your KA harness and bolt it to one side. on the other side bolt the batter connector from engine harness no. 2 (the lower engine harness that connects to the altenator, starter etc...) conntec the plugs from the KA fuse/relay box. this will supply power to all the KA harnesses (engine room, dash, main etc..)

step two: cut about 2 foot of wire from the dash harness of the skyline to white main plug (sorry not to technical at this moment) that connects from the EFI harness (where the ecu plugs in). plug that back into the EFI harness and feed all the wires out into the engine bay. since we dumped the ac, and removed the dryer from under the dash it left 2 perfect holes to put wires through.

step three: from the brown plug under the dash (see image) connect the orange wire from the brown plug to the grey/red wire from the white plug that you just connected to the efi harness. see pics below...

step four: back under the hood, find this plug (the plug is down hear the fuse box and it will have the same wire color setup. oh for those who are wondering, we cut all these plugs from the KA efi harness to plug into the KA engine harness so we wouldn't have any direct wires, we can still disconnect everything.

from that plug find the black/red and red wires and mate them with the black/red and red wires from the white efi plug and mate the grey wire from the other rb efi plug (see pic) into the black/red from the white efi plug (basicly the black red will be split two ways, one into the efi plug and the grey into the other efi plug, see pic). the red just goes to the white efi plug (as i mentioned earlier).

step five: connect the black/pink wire from the this plug to the black/pink wire from the white efi plug.

step seven: take the main battery ground wire from the ka block, grind out the hole a bit and bolt it to the RB block and connect to the battery.

step eight: connect your starter wire. take the black/white wire in this plug from the lower engine harness no. 2 (the bottom of the block like i said earlier) and connect it to the black/yellow wire from this other plug (see pic) found comming from the bottom of the fuse box)

now, start your rb! like this...

http://azparttrader.com/videos...t.wmv

sorry for being so vague. but this should help some. seriously, to get the motor to start its only a few wires. bascily you just have to feed power into the efi harness, adn activate the fuel/eccs relay. to get the gauges to work requires more wiring, but its not hard.

oh ****, i forgot to mention this is for a S13 91-94.

Very Very nice. Did you need any body harnesses from the r33?. I'm guessing all you used was the engine harness. I started doing the diagram wiring for s14 to r33 rb25 until I realized the diagrams I have don't show connectors. I did come across a rb25 wire diagram that did show connectors and that just threw me off. But after ofter a while of thinking I'm sure it's not too hard.

Here's what I got so far: http://home.earthlink.net/~4rc4ne/WIRING_D.pdf

It's for using KA eccs relay and fuel pump relay. But seening that open got the eccs relay with the harness all you would need to do is give the r33 relay power.

how different are the wiring between the 89-90 s-13 and 91-94 s13?? aside from that the rb20 should be the same as the rb25 from what ive seen on the diagrams aswell........right?? Thanks man for all the info!:D

well, since my car was a dohc, thats the only one we did. i'm not sure what the difference is on the sohc motors wiring. you'd just have to match everything up like brian did for my motor. once we finish with everything we'll put together some diagrams for what we did. if you have a fsm for your car you'll be able to figure out what to do.

I'm at the wiring portion of my RB20 swap into my 90. Have you any idea how different the 2 harnesses are between the RB20 and the 25? BTW, thanks a lot for posting up this info, it will make my life a hell of a lot easier now.

if the rb20 harness has the eccs and ignition relays built into its efi harness then this should be very similar. if the rb20 harness requires external relays, it will be a bit differenent. i will post up actual charts tonight on wiring with and without integrated relays.

the cluster wiring will be up soon, i am testing the skyline tach versus the ka tach and will post up a radio shack parts list to make a converter for the stock S13 cluster.

opensource wrote:if the rb20 harness has the eccs and ignition relays built into its efi harness then this should be very similar. if the rb20 harness requires external relays, it will be a bit differenent. i will post up actual charts tonight on wiring with and without integrated relays.

the cluster wiring will be up soon, i am testing the skyline tach versus the ka tach and will post up a radio shack parts list to make a converter for the stock S13 cluster.

That would be awesome. I had my car running for about 2 weeks or so, the ECU was stuck in safe mode so it wouldn't run above 3K. I used both of the interior harnesses and it was too cluttered, so I pulled them out and was looking for the info on how to do it. Thanks for the info.

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So you use the KA fuse box and wiring and the RB lower engine harness? Not the RB fuse box? Thanks

ok to assist in my write up here are 2 paint diagrams

1: This shows the layout of what harnesses you will use. Basicly you will meet all these harnesses in 8 locations. The diagram is self explanitory.



2. The sencond diagram shows what i mean by meeting the cut RB dash harness with the RB efi harness and useing the cut rb dash harness to integrate into your KA engine and dash harness.

i just covered the 89-90 wiring diagram and there are diferences in wiring color. the file is a large jpg and covers HUD, Canada, and california models. if source can host or intergrate it in the pdf it it'd be great!:) untill then e-mail me for the file. Thx again source

here are some pics of the swap:

http://www.az240sx.org/gallery2/album15

this is only enough to get it started. next installment is some further explanation and the wiring for the rest of the sensors needed for the cluster and the vss. stay tuned.

I'm guessing by the pictures that you got your clip from venus. Did the steering wheel come with the clip as well? How was there service and do you have any complaints? Also what method did you use to mount the engine and tranny?

yeah i got it from venus. you can't beat their prices, so if you are on a budget and are doing the swap yourself they are a good option. the motor was good, clip had 45k miles on it. they don't seem to know exactly what they're doing all the time, but if they mess up they'll make it right. just hope gi trucking, who they use for shipping to az at least, doesn't "lose" your clip. :squint

opensource, good information. Glad to see you get another RB up and going. I'll be in Arizona this May 10. Hope to meet you....

Hey Ben, NOPE! Opensource has let his information out for everyone to see but I think we'll still keep ours. Ours is slightly different then his. ANYONE, can do what we do, they just need to do their homework. It's not that hard.

Oh yea, opensource have you driven the car yet? By the pictures the shifter looks real close to hitting all the plastic and stuff around the shifter. Bhttp://www.az240sx.org/albums2/album15/IMG_2302.sized.jp

Other then that the swap looks great!!!!!!

Grumpy

We've driven it a few times, but not too far because we didn't finish up the cluster wiring until this weekend. the shifter has no clearance problems, we made sure to check that.

we ended up using the r33 cluster after having problems wiring up the s13 one. speedo was acting funny and the rb25 temp sensor for the cluster has different resistance to what the s13 cluster reads. everything works fine using the r33 cluster, and you get the boost and oil pressure gauges too.

hey, zed616... does the r33 gauge cluster bolt and plug right in the stock 240 cluster location with out any wiring mods?

Because in opensource's engine layout diagram the gauge cluster looks like it is connected to the 240sx's interior harness...

no, you have to rewire it to match up with the ka interior harness plugs. There are a lot of wires and it takes awhile to get done.

what happened to the ka cluster? you said you had problems? like wat?

temperature gauge didn't work and the speedometer and tach both read wrong. if the temperature sensor from the ka fits in the rb then the s13 temp gauge would work. i don't know what was wrong with the speedo, it read about 20 mph slow. tach reads for a 4 cyl instead of 6cyl.

vududoc, how can I get me a copy of that file, I need alot of help with the wiring for my install. I am installing an RB25DET into an '89 Coupe.I have everything else done except the wirng, I am painting the engine compartment and already have everything test fit. Anybody out there feel generous enough to help me out I would appreciate it.

After reading through everything on these boards about wiring, there's one topic I haven't seen mentioned. While extending the MAF and O2 sensor wires today I realized a wire or two in each cable is shielded. Did anyone use shielded wire to extend these, or just regular wire?

I only ask because finding suitable sized shielded wire around here is turning out to be a big PITA, so if regular wire will do I'd much rather use it.

regular will do.

Hi guys, I've never posted before, I've got an RB25 going into a '91 hatchback but I'm having a little trouble getting it running. I've got everything wired up according to this thread. The motor turns over, you can here the fuel pump when the key is turned on. But I don't think I'm gettin spark. Is there anything obvious that I should check? how can I test that the ecu is sending a signal to the chip (is this the ignitor?) at the back of the spark plug cover. Or is there something I can plug into the outlet that is spliced off of the #1 spark plug signal? Sorry if I sound like a retard, but I'm a mechanical engineer, not a sparky, heheh. Thanks in advanceGeorge

so you have a chip? is it a 33? i didn't think the 33 had a igniter chip.

It is an R33, but I think I got it figured out, I didn't hook up the second sub connector near the ecu off the wiring harness. This is the connector that has most of the grounds for the spark and injectors as well as a few other things like grounding shielded cables. I'm pretty sure I need these grounds for it to run. I hope that is my problem, otherwise, I'm gonna lose my mind.ThanksGeorge

I had more than a few problems getting mine to start, send me an email and I will help you troubleshoot the problem if you still need help.

what are the major differences in wiring for an s14?