Y33 1997 Q45 Valve cover gasket replacement

Post by **bullittandy** » Thu Feb 22, 2007 11:23 am

Just started the valve cover gasket R & R. Ain't easy. I'm currently waiting for some silicon to dry that I used to adhere the gaskets to the valve covers, they kept wanting to fall out. I've got some pics I hope can be hosted. Stay tuned.

The passenger side was a bit of a pain because the gasket sits in a recess in the valve cover and there is little room to drop the cover directly onto the head. this was due to my refusal to remove the two fuel lines seen in the picture. I couldn't tell if they were main lines or returns but I don't like messing with fuel injection lines-I'm a sissy. If you removed these lines the job would be a lot easier.

I also replaced the passenger spark plugs with NGK iridium IX. The 30K mile plugs in there had a fair amount of discoloration on the porcelain (sic?)- more than I'd expect with those miles.
Modified by bullittandy at 4:16 PM 2/22/2007

Post by **maxnix** » Thu Feb 22, 2007 2:51 pm

Pictures appreciated.

Whenever you pull the plenum for a cleaning, you will notice that the EGR tube does not distribute the exhaust gases evenly within the plenum.

Hence, if your plugs from front to back were uniformly discolored, i would be amazed.

Post by **elwesso** » Fri Feb 23, 2007 5:14 am

Heres some pics

Post by **Q45tech** » Fri Feb 23, 2007 7:47 am

Somebody was bad about 90 day oil changes...........oxidized oil and wear marks on cams.

Post by **maxnix** » Fri Feb 23, 2007 9:08 am

Didn't Andy say he uses 7K-10K interval? Someone did.

Post by **Rex** » Fri Feb 23, 2007 10:12 am

Pretty sure he didn't buy this car new (bought it at 194K) ... nothing can undo the wear from previous owner poor OCI. Just ask Wes .

Post by **bullittandy** » Fri Feb 23, 2007 10:39 am

maxnix wrote:Didn't Andy say he uses 7K-10K interval? Someone did.

The previous owner's interval was about 6-7K on dino oil and my interval is 10K on synthetic. After wiping the cam there is no discernable wear only a different sheen. Looks pretty good for 227K miles.

Got the driver's side done also and about as troublesome as the passenger side. There are SO many brackets holding everything together, wires, plugs etc. Especially as compared to my Mustang which I think has one zip tire holding the entire engine harness in!

The big obstacle on the driver side is a bracket that holds the middle air housing section to the intake. This bracket is directly over the valve cover and has to be removed in order to get the cover out. BUT, the bracket is bolted to the intake with two bolts that are upside down and hidden from every direction. In addition, it has a bunch of hard vacuum lines brazed to it. I think you may have to take the upper intake off to reach them-for one lousy bracket. But I didn't

I simply pulled out my trusty saber saw with a metal blade and cut the offending bracket off. I thought about patching it back together after I got the valve cover off but after bolting the intake tract back in, missing this one mounting point doesn't seem too serious.

I'm likely to rig up a couple of extra connections elsewhere to further secure it. Hopefully pics will be up soon.

I've told this story before but it bears repeating. I replaced the engine in a Chevy P20 Stepvan (bread truck) and the manual stated that the entire front suspension had to be dropped and the truck lifted off the engine. Well- that wasn't an option. I decided instead to cut the top radiator support and pull it out the traditional way. It took me 2 minutes to cut it off and 20 minutes to weld it back (could also have been bolted back on). This as compared to removing 30 year one-ton truck suspension bolts and lifting a 7000lb? van in the air.

The proper way to do something and a correct way to do something are sometimes the same, sometimes different.

Post by **elwesso** » Fri Feb 23, 2007 5:20 pm

Heres the other pics andy wanted me to post...

Post by **BadQ45t** » Sat Feb 24, 2007 8:45 am

You have just reminded me why I work hard to make money so I can pay someone else to do work like that

Post by **bullittandy** » Sat Feb 24, 2007 9:01 am

BadQ45t wrote:You have just reminded me why I work hard to make money so I can pay someone else to do work like that

Right on! I was dreading the knock sensor replacement and it was easy as pie. I thought the valve cover gaskets would a snap-wrong.

Of course I was basing my time estimate on the last time I replaced valve cover gaskets- on a 1955 Chevy 210 with a 350!

Post by **maxnix** » Sat Feb 24, 2007 10:13 am

Thanks for the pictures, Andy.

I see you have yet to experience the joy of plenum cleaning.

Post by **bullittandy** » Sat Feb 24, 2007 10:29 am

maxnix wrote:Thanks for the pictures, Andy.

I see you have yet to experience the joy of plenum cleaning.

I didn't clean the plenum, only the T/B. After seeing the crap inside the plenum its fruitless to try to clean it on the car.

Post by **maxnix** » Sat Feb 24, 2007 4:30 pm

bullittandy wrote:After seeing the crap inside the plenum its fruitless to try to clean it on the car.

You got that right. And doing it by hand is not much better once it is off.

Had a machine shop do my other two in a machine. Well worth the $35 per plenum charge.

Post by **BadQ45t** » Sat Feb 24, 2007 10:21 pm

BTW, how did you know they were leaking? Was it obvious or did you have to dig in there to figure it out?

The last car i worked on was my 77' Toyota Celica, since my 84' 300ZX I was out of the game.

Post by **bullittandy** » Sun Feb 25, 2007 8:58 am

BadQ45t wrote:BTW, how did you know they were leaking? Was it obvious or did you have to dig in there to figure it out?

The last car i worked on was my 77' Toyota Celica, since my 84' 300ZX I was out of the game.

I saw some drips on the passenger exhaust when I was underneath the car but what really tipped me about the leak and how much it was progressing was the smell. They leaked at the bottom and dripped onto the exhaust so everytime I'd start the car after driving a bit I could smell it in the HVAC system. At one point I got really good at turning on the recirc button instantly but then they leaked so much I had to replace them.

I'd say you'd have to save at least $300 in labor before doing this one yourself.

Post by **miata007** » Sun May 18, 2008 11:48 am

Andy,I finally was able to pull the valve cover off (driver side) this afternoon. I too had trouble with the metal bracket (the one you have cutted). After struggling a long time, I walked over to my neighbor to borrow his sawsaw. My neighbor was curious and came over to take a look at the situation. After a few minor attempts with socket and ratchet, we went back to look for a flat 10mm wench. Bingo!!!

With a little patience, he was able to remove the 2 bolts that hold the metal bracket....took about 10 min. One of the bolt was able to have access. The second one didn't but after the easier one bolt has been removed, he was able to rotate the metal bracket with one remaining bolt on and gain accessiblity.

Hope this will help!!!!

It took me about 8 hours total to get to the point of removeing the valve cover. I will replace the gasket next week and start put things back together. Pics to follow.

007

Post by **maxnix** » Sun May 18, 2008 12:17 pm

I pulled the plenum again so I could get that offending bracket off the bottom and because the plenum and T B needed cleaning again after only 20K.

Post by **miata007** » Mon Jun 09, 2008 8:50 am

Put everything back on Friday (6/6/08) along with new coils, spark plugs, and air filter. Don't have a drip of oil in the driveway after driving for two day of testing (total 70mi). On the initial test drive, I was able to see and smell of engine oil burned at exhaust components. I am thinking and hoping they are leftover before the VC job. By Sunday evening, the smoke is gone and the smell has been reduced quite a bit but I can still smell a little in the area near master cylinder. Still no drip nor smoke. The VC area are all clean still so the VC gasket replacmetn job is good.

I will continue to monitor in the next few days to confirm. Our family budget is tight, partially due to gas prices. We can't afford a new car right now so really hope this car will do well for the next 100,000 mi. (currently at 180,000 mi).

BTW. There no hiccups with those new coils!!!!!!! At work right now, will add more info and pics in the few days. Thanks for everyone's help!!Can't do it without you guys.

007

Post by **maxnix** » Mon Jun 09, 2008 8:58 am

bullittandy wrote:The big obstacle on the driver side is a bracket that holds the middle air housing section to the intake. This bracket is directly over the valve cover and has to be removed in order to get the cover out. BUT, the bracket is bolted to the intake with two bolts that are upside down and hidden from every direction. In addition, it has a bunch of hard vacuum lines brazed to it. I think you may have to take the upper intake off to reach them-for one lousy bracket. But I didn't

I simply pulled out my trusty saber saw with a metal blade and cut the offending bracket off.

The proper way to do something and a correct way to do something are sometimes the same, sometimes different.

I had to replace my driver's side VC gasket again as I missed one of the semicircles on the backside. I dreaded having to remove my pristine upper plenum again, but actually it is possible to remove and replace the VC with gasket by pulling the VC up, rotating slightly towards the outside and sliding forward, up and out. That's why the bracket is shaped and positioned where it is.

Sometimes the guys that write the manuals do know better.

Post by **miata007** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 1:21 pm

The good newsThere are absolutely no more engine mis-fire or hiccups after 4 days (250mi).

The bad newsUnfortunately, replacing the VC on driver side did not completely fix the leak. Yesterday morning I was able to find a drop of oil in the garage floor.Inspecting the VC, it looks pretty clean using a light to probe around as much I can. There is still some oil touching hot exhaust odor under the hood but not inside the car, was much worst. The area of leak is near the fireway on the driver side. I am pretty sure is engine oil leak and not brake nor transmission fluid.

Anyone have experienced leak else where? I will drive my car on the Rhino ramps this weekend and try to do more inspection. I am hoping I won't have to use engine leak fluid sold at pepboys.

007

Post by **bullittandy** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 2:02 pm

I remember the passenger has those small half-moon shapes-does the driver's side so have these? If so then theres a good chance that they got knocked on install. Also, if you noticed the factory put a few drops of silicone on the corners which, if not recreated, could leak i suppose.

Good news on the coils!!

Post by **maxnix** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 2:03 pm

Use a mirror on a wand and a strong LED light and inspect both semi-circular appedagesof VC for for proper placement on the head.

Don't ask how I know. I actually tore mine and had to have Joe send another.

Post by **bullittandy** » Thu Nov 06, 2008 2:47 pm

I have started replacing the valve cover gaskets on my 99 Q45 and noticed that the passenger gasket was still flexible. Its not new but I was not able to break it when folding it. On the other two 97's that i've replaced the valve cover gaskets they were as brittle as dry leaves. All cars have 150K and were about 9 years old at the time of R&R.

Post by **maxnix** » Thu Nov 06, 2008 7:55 pm

Mine were not brittle either, but still lacked the elasticity to seal properly.

Post by **chipahoy** » Fri Aug 02, 2013 11:40 am

If your a fanatic like me you can't stand any leaks or the smell of burning oil from your engine. This is the second time i have replaced the valve cover gaskets in 13 years of ownership and 230,000k on my '99 Q45t. it gets better each time you do it, but it requires a patience pill and don't get in a hurry. i think the driver side was easier, contrary to what another poster said. biggest thing is to make sure gasket seats correctly before you torque down the 16 screws holding the valve cover in place. Use a 1/4 drive set to re install so you don't over torque, and use the specified gasket cement (the grey permatex is Nissan approved). ONLY use the permatex where the service manual tells you, around the spark plug holes and in the back with the two half circle indents in the head. use a small mirror to inspect the back of the valve cover to make sure the half circle pieces of the gasket are seated correctly. the first time i did the job, i had to completely disassemble the job and do it again, with a new gasket (i know it was still new, but it crimped and i got a new one b/c its just way too much work to take a chance). follow the service manual torque specifications and inspect all connections and hoses as well. i took off all the various hoses connected to the valve cover and soaked them in oil to rejuvenate; i also taped up a lot of the sections of the main harness where the corrugated plastic wire covers have cracked with the heat. use a good quality electrical tape like 3M, worth the extra money. also, take out the plugs since you have to remove the coils. You don't have to change them unless they need it. at $7-$11 apiece, those iridium's are not cheap. mine were five years old and still looked good so i just cleaned them with a dental toothbrush and gasoline (the cheapest and best parts cleaner) and put them back in.

Post by **skyvette427** » Fri Aug 02, 2013 12:47 pm

I just did mine last week

I posted some pics valve-cover-gaskets-success-t578636.html

Post by **Q45-pj** » Wed Apr 09, 2014 6:55 pm

I know this thread is old, but I want to try to do the VCGs myself. I think since the mech wants to charge me $500 I might as well learn from doing it, and possibly f%kn it up. Any advice, tips etc.. I've never done any repairs but this seems like something I can tackle.

Thanks!

Y33 1997 Q45 Valve cover gasket replacement

Y33 1997 Q45 Valve cover gasket replacement

Re: Y33 1997 Q45 Valve cover gasket replacement (bullittandy)

Re: Y33 1997 Q45 Valve cover gasket replacement (maxnix)

Re: Y33 1997 Q45 Valve cover gasket replacement (elwesso)

Re: Y33 1997 Q45 Valve cover gasket replacement (Q45tech)

Re: Y33 1997 Q45 Valve cover gasket replacement (maxnix)

Re: Y33 1997 Q45 Valve cover gasket replacement (bullittandy)

Re: (BadQ45t)

Re: Y33 1997 Q45 Valve cover gasket replacement (elwesso)

Re: Y33 1997 Q45 Valve cover gasket replacement (maxnix)

Re: Y33 1997 Q45 Valve cover gasket replacement (bullittandy)

Re: (BadQ45t)

Re: (bullittandy)

Re: Y33 1997 Q45 Valve cover gasket replacement (bullittandy)

Re: Y33 1997 Q45 Valve cover gasket replacement (maxnix)

Driver's Side VH41DE Valve cover replacement (bullittandy)

Re: Driver's Side VH41DE Valve cover replacement (maxnix)

Re: Driver's Side VH41DE Valve cover replacement (miata007)

Re: Driver's Side VH41DE Valve cover replacement (miata007)

Re: Driver's Side VH41DE Valve cover replacement (maxnix)

Re: Driver's Side VH41DE Valve cover replacement (bullittandy)

Re: Y33 1997 Q45 Valve cover gasket replacement

Re: Y33 1997 Q45 Valve cover gasket replacement

Re: Y33 1997 Q45 Valve cover gasket replacement

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