So this is a write up for the 13s front lower control arms. It's really easy but it takes time
What you will need: Anti-sieze, Ratchet, 17mm wrench, 14mm Socket, 17mm Socket, 22mm Socket, Vice Grip, TQ wrench, 6 lb sledge hammer (It has to be above 6lb) 4 jack stands and a jack. And a pair of new lower control arms with ball joints.
What you might need: A breaker bar
Thing you DONT need: pickle fork or "ball removal joint tool"
Time you will need: 1-3 hours
Cost: About $100. You can get OEM lower control arms(A pair) for about $100 on internet
1: First jack up your car and put in on the jack stands. You only need to jack up the front so you will need 2 jack stands
2: Take off the front wheels
3: Remove the left and right swaybar endlink nuts with a 14mm socket(Bottom)
4: Remove tension rod with 17mm socket
5: Remove the strut to spindle bolts with 17mm socket and 17mm wrench
6: Remove the cotter pin that's on the ball joint with a vice grip
7: Remove the ball joint nut with a 22mm socket
8: Disconnect the ball joint and the spindle with a 6 lb sledge hammer. Use a jack to hold on to the brake rotor. And hit the ball joint bolt with the hammer. Hold on to the spindle while you are hammering the bolt. But be careful tho you have to aim right. If you think you might hit something else then just remove the struts. So you will have more space to hammer the bolt out. From my experience pickle fork or those ball removal joint tools wont work. There are a lot of suspension technicians agree with that too. I've spent almost 2 hours trying to disconnect the ball joint and the spindle with the pickle fork and ball joint removal tool. I even used the impact gun. The only thing I saw was the removal tool getting destroyed. You are going to waste a lot of time if you use them. You might be able to get them out at the end. But a 6lb sledge hammer is a lot more quicker and easier. I only hit 5 times and I disconnected the ball joint and the spindle. Yes. Doing this is going to damage the ball joint bolts but buying a set of new ball joint isnt that much cheaper than buying pair of new lower control arms that have ball joints. And it's a lot more easier. So I would highly recommend people to buy a pair of new lower control arms that come with ball joints.
9: Remove the inner control arm bolts with a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench
10: Put on the new lower control arm
11: Connect the ball joint to the spindle. And tighten the nut with a 22mm socket. It doesnt have a TQ spec on FSM so you wont find the TQ spec anywhere. So just make it tight but dont over tighten the nut. Because it will damage your ball joint boot
12: Put the cotter pin back on and make sure you twist them right just like in the picture
13: Put the tension rod back on
14: Re-tighten the sway bar endlink. Be careful when you are putting the nuts back on make sure both lower control arms are at the same height. So you should use jack stands to support the lower control arms. If they are not on the same height you wont be able to put the nuts back on.
IMPORTANT: If your ball joints dont come with grease inside. You HAVE to grease up the ball joints with any good lithium or moly based grease. If you are not sure open the valve on the bottom of the ball joints and check.
15: Put on the wheels and lower the car
IMPORTANT: Make sure you torque all the bolts. Except the ball joint nuts. You have to torque the bolts AFTER the car goes back to the ground. This is VERY important
Put some anti-sieze on the bolts when you are installing them. So next time when you have to work on your car it will be a lot more easier. But dont put anti-sieze on the ball joint bolts
You should get an alignment after this.
So that's it! If you have questions please feel free to send me an e-mail. Address is
[email protected]
By mchkc240
Modified by mchkc240 at 12:52 AM 10/18/2007