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Re: (qsiguy)

Postby Infinitiguy19 » Wed Mar 18, 2009 2:08 pm



Here is what you were looking for:

Go here for a bigger picture: http://picasaweb.google.com/lh...tlink

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Re: (elwesso)

Postby Johnny Rocket » Wed Mar 18, 2009 3:30 pm

As far as the ECU is concerned, there is no funny business. It starts up and idles like it should and runs like hell!!!

Gee I wonder Wes why it runs like hell? Does the new gear ratios that are mutiplying the torque have anything do do with it?
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Re: (Raxephon)

Postby Johnny Rocket » Wed Mar 18, 2009 3:35 pm

T
Raxephon wrote:

Are you speaking of my 5-speed conversion or the rb swap midnight did?
The picuture in this thread.....what are those pedals?
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Re: (Johnny Rocket)

Postby elwesso » Wed Mar 18, 2009 3:50 pm

Clutch pedal is from a pathfinder (in a Z32 bracket) and brake pedal is Z32.
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Postby qsiguy » Wed Mar 18, 2009 8:20 pm

Cutting the wire from terminal #3 on the TCU will disable the fault indicator. It's a light green/black wire. Snip it and be done with it. If you want further validation that it's ok to do, JWT disconnects this circuit inside the TCU when they mod them.

That's a decent block diagram Paul but the diagrams on page AT-38 and AT-39 are a little more complete and show wire colors.
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Re: (qsiguy)

Postby Infinitiguy19 » Wed Mar 18, 2009 8:36 pm

I got lazy . But I tried to tell Wes too that JWT cuts that otherwise the TCU would be giving errors all the time because they reprogramed them.
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Re: (elwesso)

Postby bullittandy » Thu Mar 19, 2009 2:40 am

elwesso wrote:I think with the U joints if you have an angle and the U joints move around a little more they will tend to avoid getting "notchy".

I have a little vibration I need to get rid of, i think shimming the carrier bearing should take care of it.
I would rec this.

Vibes are a huge problem on modified Mustangs and most of the time is a change in the pinion angles (lowered cars). It doesn't seem to matter how big the difference is but rather that the angle between the tranny tailshaft and diff is 90 degrees.

Another thing you might try (if you haven't already) is to add the stock auto tranny vibration dampner. The two biggest improvements I made to reduce driveline vibes on my 91 LX 5.0 were adding power seats (no mechanical connection between seat frame and body) and adding a tranny dampner from a Mazda Millenia to the rear of the tranny which consisted of a huge hunk of metal that was heavy as hell and a rubber cube.

Trust me on this though-you will want to get rid of that vibe b/c it might drive you crazy-kind of like a imbalanced tire.

Also, what changes would need to be made to adapt this to a 97+ car...
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Re: (qsiguy)

Postby elwesso » Thu Mar 19, 2009 2:55 am

qsiguy wrote:Cutting the wire from terminal #3 on the TCU will disable the fault indicator. It's a light green/black wire. Snip it and be done with it. If you want further validation that it's ok to do, JWT disconnects this circuit inside the TCU when they mod them.

That's a decent block diagram Paul but the diagrams on page AT-38 and AT-39 are a little more complete and show wire colors.
Well if thats the case, wouldnt simply removing the TCU do the same thing?

Andy, basically everything for the 97+ car would need to be different. You'd need to make your own VH41 adapter plate (bolt pattern is different), im sure the pedal arrangement and shifter position might be similar, but its a shot in the dark.. You're also going to have a TON more issues (so much that it may not even make it worth it?) with the ECU being OBDII.. you cant fall back on the info for people with OBDII cars with MT's offered in them because all they do is wire things up and switch the ECU's to a MT version.. cant do that on a Y33 because never offered it and also you cant reprogram the ECU at all.

In my case, the hard part was the mechanics about it.. In the Y33 case, the electronics are almost going to be insurmountable.

Youll notice on picture (7?) that im using the stock AT crossmember with those brackets to adapt it.. So, im using the stock AT tranny mount (insulator) that you speak of...

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Postby AZhitman » Thu Mar 19, 2009 4:25 am

I can't wait 'til I have time to compile this into a big article....

Wes, I'm sitting here reminiscing about the first time I met you... dorky 16-year-old with more guts and balls than money.

I knew you'd do something awesome like this, but never had any clue you'd be pioneering something THIS big for the community.

*sniff* I'm so damn proud... *sniff*
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Re: (AZhitman)

Postby elwesso » Thu Mar 19, 2009 8:03 am

dude, just wait till carlisle and the tire destruction ensues.
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Re: (elwesso)

Postby thejapino » Thu Mar 19, 2009 8:17 am

Ah, tire destruction.
Please, PLEASE shoot vids of said tire destruction.

So when are you gonna produce finished plates for the rest of us? Learning that you used the AT crossmember and a lengthened Q45 driveshaft could be used has shortened my parts-checklist! All I need is a starter and clutch kit! Oh, and of course, an adapter plate!!!
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Re: (elwesso)

Postby AZhitman » Thu Mar 19, 2009 8:18 am

elwesso wrote:dude, just wait till carlisle and the tire destruction ensues.
May I?

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Re: (elwesso)

Postby qsiguy » Thu Mar 19, 2009 8:57 am

elwesso wrote:Well if thats the case, wouldnt simply removing the TCU do the same thing?

Probably, I'm just not sure if removal of the TCU will have other ramifications. There may be a few other systems that are receiving some signals from it like the ECU.
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Re: (thejapino)

Postby elwesso » Thu Mar 19, 2009 9:11 am

Actually i just need to find a machinist to do another run, im definitely interested in doing another run..
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Re: (elwesso)

Postby Rex » Thu Mar 19, 2009 9:21 am

elwesso wrote:dude, just wait till carlisle and the tire destruction ensues.
Take spares with you
tires
clutches
etc
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Re: (Rex)

Postby elwesso » Thu Mar 19, 2009 10:05 am

Update... I just unplugged the TCU and now the transmission malfunction light is off, and also the cruise works now..

Now I just need to get the automatic drive positioner to work and also the memory seats. For a rainy day...
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Postby MR. Q » Fri Mar 20, 2009 7:13 am

No appologies` | but the Q has to be the most underated car I know. Ugly? Try Unique !
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Re: (AZhitman)

Postby Jesda » Fri Mar 20, 2009 7:57 am

AZhitman wrote:
May I?

He's gonna your Q!
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Postby Carl H » Sun Mar 22, 2009 11:39 am

from my own experience with a 5spd vh45 the stock rear end SUCKS for low speed work...the car was incredibly hard to slide because the final drive (3.52 out of the q45) caused it to fall in and out of the power band.
to me a 4.08 final would do wonders for the car and may be the next mod if i keep my s13 coupe (which has the vh in it).
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Re: (Carl H)

Postby Ludeaem » Sun Mar 22, 2009 12:11 pm

Carl H wrote:from my own experience with a 5spd vh45 the stock rear end SUCKS for low speed work...the car was incredibly hard to slide because the final drive (3.52 out of the q45) caused it to fall in and out of the power band.
to me a 4.08 final would do wonders for the car and may be the next mod if i keep my s13 coupe (which has the vh in it).
i don't think he put the tranny in there to dorito. Just because he is a nissan doesn't mean she he is a drifter
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Re: (Ludeaem)

Postby Johnny Rocket » Sun Mar 22, 2009 4:30 pm

El Wesson oil is a drifter........from town to town !

If he really wants his car to rip he will get that 4.08 gear in that car......he is such a pansy when it comes to that rear gear!
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Re: (Johnny Rocket)

Postby jmankill » Sun Apr 05, 2009 11:29 pm

does anyone know where to obtain a 4.08 rear? let me know if anyone has been done to adapt the z32's to a q.
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Re: (jmankill)

Postby elwesso » Mon Apr 06, 2009 2:38 pm

I have the shifter issue worked out (its gonna be SLICK when its done) and the trim piece should be done this weekend...
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Re: (elwesso)

Postby elwesso » Tue Apr 07, 2009 4:22 am

Ok I need your guys' opinion..

Ive mocked up 2 shifter surrounds using a manilla folder. Please note my cutting skills suck and all the edges would be rounded... I also didnt install the boot because i need a new one anyway.

The major problem is that the shifter is very biased toward the passenger side for whatever reason...

Option 1- Make the hole symmetrical about it (and only use the right side of the hole) and put 3 of the door window switches at the top of the console...



Option 2... Use the right hand of the bezel for the shifter and the other side put the factory 94 Q window switches in place next to each other..



Im kinda leaning toward the second option the more I think about it..
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Re: (elwesso)

Postby MinisterofDOOM » Tue Apr 07, 2009 5:18 am

I definitely prefer the 2nd option. I hate how the window switches are scattered so far apart on the stock shifter surround. Putting them all together like that is perfect.
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Re: (elwesso)

Postby Infinitiguy19 » Tue Apr 07, 2009 10:39 am

I like the first one, but I would still prefer them to be like they originally came. But the second option is defiantly easier to do.

I would like to see center console window control with the window lock relocated to the top or bottom of the shifter surround.
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Re: (elwesso)

Postby thejapino » Tue Apr 07, 2009 11:16 am

Wes, my vote goes for Option 2! I remember you saying you extended the z shifter brackets about 4". Is it possible to extend it to the necessary length and move the assembly closer to the driver's side?
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Re: (thejapino)

Postby elwesso » Tue Apr 07, 2009 12:42 pm

I actually didnt end up extending the shifter I ended up using a different shift knob... With a short shifter you have to use a slightly different one..

On the stock shift knob the shift rod actually goes inside the knob, which makes it sit way low. Using a different shift knob allows the shift knob to sit right on top of it.

You could probably bend the shifter over if you wanted to, but I really dont see a reason to. I really dont have an issue where it is.. Maybe someday i'll do it, but not right now.

I really dont think either surround is going to be difficult to make, i dont see either one being harder to make than the other, which is why I asked for an opinion... I think the second option would look more factory, and also I could easily install gauges up at the top of the shifter later (another reason to go that route).. Coolant temp gauge and oil pressure would be cool.
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Re: (elwesso)

Postby qship96 » Tue Apr 07, 2009 12:49 pm

Wes, box up that flexplate for shipping!!! I will call you tomorrow to work out the details!!!!
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Re: (elwesso)

Postby Infinitiguy19 » Tue Apr 07, 2009 12:50 pm

I meant the first one would be hard to incorporate the original switches into.

And I don't see the reason for a second yet more accurate coolant temp gauge, it wouldn't look right in my opinion.

Do you still use the tranny cooler for your M/T?

I would like some day: Oil pressure and temperature, transmission gauges.
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