Nissan's free clinic care told me that 2 of my mounts needed to be changed. The mechanic left before i could ask him to change it for me, but they wanted $500 for parts and labor. That's too much, i'll do it myself.

How hard is it to do? Where should i get the mounts from? Are energy suspension poly mounts worth it?

Some are not fun, I have not done them on this car, but on other cars I have done, I had to life of the engine a little. That was the only way to do it...

Front and side mount does not seem to difficult to work around. The rear mount will take a bit more effort.

spark plugs. wrote:Nissan's free clinic care told me that 2 of my mounts needed to be changed. The mechanic left before i could ask him to change it for me, but they wanted $500 for parts and labor. That's too much, i'll do it myself.

How hard is it to do? Where should i get the mounts from? Are energy suspension poly mounts worth it?

Yes they're easily a DIY mod. I'm assuming you have an auto, which means you can only use the rear ES polyurethene mount because your front one is larger in diameter.

You will not need to do the right and left mounts (on the timing cover and transmission) but the two block mounts underneath the car attached to the subframe you'll want to replace, as those are pretty cheaply made and are under a lot of stress.

1.) The first thing you'll want to do is to jack the car up and of course put it on jackstands. 2.) [optional] Place a jack with something flat over it (a piece of wood or a brake rotor work well) and support either the transmission or underneath the oil pan just for safety. You don't have to do this, as the two upper mounts will hold the engine just fine, but sometimes it makes it easier to get the crossmember unbolted.3.) Locate the large black crossmember that goes front to back underneath the engine and you'll notice the two large motor mounts attached to the block. 4.)Loosen the bolts that attach the motor mounts to the block (the big one that goes through the mount). Then loosen the bolts that attach the mount to the subframe piece. 5.) remove the four bolts that hold on the subframe. (two in front, two in back) 6.) Remove the already-loosened bolt that goes through the motor mount and drop the crossmember assembly down.

This is the hard part7.) In some way, shape, or form get the motor mount inserts out. This is pretty difficult and many people take it to a shop to have the old inserts pressed out and the new ones pressed in. However, it is do-able with some creativity. a.) You can choose to cut it out some way (you wont need them anymore) and push the remains out with a screw driver or something else flat. b.) You can burn them out (I would advise against it, but several people have succeeded) c.) you can use a clamp or press to squeeze them out (this is what I would recommend). I bought a 200mm clamp at sears for $13 and it worked well. Just get a piece of wood to jam on one side and start spinning the screw and it'll press out eventually. 8.) In another creative fashion, press the mounts in. I used the same method to press them in as I did to get them out (the press with a piece of wood on one side. )9.) Attach everything in reverse order.

It sounds more difficult than it actually is, but once you get down there you'll see it's not that hard. As I mentioned in the write-up, pressing them in and out was the most difficult part.

If you have an auto, I would definitely recommend getting the rear ES bushing. It helps tremendously and does not fall apart like the stock ones. However, the one on the front is electronic and liquid filled, and won't be cheap, but you'll have to get an OEM one. If you have a 6-speed then you can buy both the ES bushings and your job will be easier

Hope that helped!

Very nice