It's actually on top of the spare tire, under the removable floor panels in the rear.eddiehaskill wrote:Its located under the spare tire apparently
Thanks, so I take it the audio leads going to the bose amp are high level hence the need for a loc if I use my aftermarket amp?rogueagent08 wrote:if you're using a LOC or line out converter off of just the speaker leads than you'll be okay but be sure it's not a cheap one, just use a decent one and you'll be just fine. I may be wrong on current Bose systems but all previous Bose systems ran their amps at 1ohm to 1ohm voice coils on their speakers which made it rather hard to run off the shelf speakers. running off the shelf speakers yeilded a 4 ohm load and these amp were not meant for that high of an impedence and such caused them to burn up.
summary= a good line out converter should work just fine for adding subs only.
I on the other hand will be doing a full install keeping the factory head unit using the Rockford Fosgate 3SIXTY.2 for my signal processing and all Powerbass equipment.
Well, I'm guessing that the two larger gauge wires are the ground (black) and positive (blue) while the yellow and brown wires are carrying the audio signal and I would be suprised if I'm wrong about those four.rogueagent08 wrote:IDK which 1 is remote but i'll figure it out for you once i get going on the project or if some1 would like to chime in with the answer before than, that'd be great.
thanks Philipa...In case anyone is curious I hooked up my amp and two tens to the factory wiring and it works fine...I didn't use a loc or anything, just split the two audio wires to two RCA plugs and and plugged them into the low level ports on my amp and it worked well, although I had to keep the amp level down very low so I think that may indicate that a loc is needed.philipa_240sx wrote:Wiring for Bose Subwoofer above:
For some reason the FSM wire colors don't match yours...
If you look at the connector from the harness side (clip facing up as shown), the pin numbers are marked as follows:
2 | 4 | 6----------1 | 3 | 5
1 = Brn = Audio signal - (line level)2 = Yel = Audio Signal + (line level)3 = Braided (black) = Shield for audio signal4 = Grn = Amp ON Signal (12V switched)5 = Black = Ground6 = Black with silver stripe? Same as blue in your photo = Battery +12V (fused at 10A)
The audio signal is not amplified, but appears to be a balanced line level output.
I'm no audio expert so I can't comment on what will work. A LOC may be OK if it's adjustable for the low level Bose outputs. There are also Bose specific LOCs:
http://www.logjamelectronics.com/sounlocbosli.html
Good luck!
Modified by philipa_240sx at 7:01 PM 3/25/2008
I used the stock sub wiring on mine and it worked fine...it's a little undersized for high current draw but I think it will work fine for moderate listening levels. I guess you would need a larger gauge wire if you like to blast your eardrums off all the time but thats not me.SquiggyFreud wrote:Stopped by the local car audio shop today...he said no need for a LOC if you splice in b4 the amp...nonetheless, I have ordered an MTX re-Q bass enhancer, waiting for it to come in. Gonna have a 400 watt amp on my single 12", but am going to install a dual amp kit in case I need to add on down the road.Still have not found a hole in the firewall to run the battery lead, hoping I will not have to drill
And I doubt that you will. I think Nissan has a habbit of only supporting the wire harnesses. And since the Rogue doesn't have a manual transmission option there isn't a hole for that either.SquiggyFreud wrote:Still have not found a hole in the firewall to run the battery lead, hoping I will not have to drill
I know its been a while, but I recently purchased a 2012 Nissan Rogue and I'm very interested in this setup. Could you provide more details? How where you able to set this up and still have access to the spare tire?DoubleDo wrote:Oh, sorry it took so long, but I put the amp where the old bose sub was. Took that baby out.