VQ35 Valve Covers

[Toyojay]

Hello everybody! New guy here with a question. I've done some searching here, and on google but some of the info is different. I keep hearing, and seeing threads online that VQ35 QX4s and Pathfinders DO have replaceable spark plug seals... but many people also say they do not. Then some people say depending on what year your vehicle is makes the difference. I can't seem to find a definitive answer on this. 2 dealerships I've called have both told me my 2001 DOES NOT have replaceable plug seals, and quoted me $250 per VC!

I have found 2 different Nissan part numbers online for spark plug tube seals, if these don't fit the QX/Path VQ then what do they fit? Can the cover be modified for these to fit? Are there different covers out there that DO have removable seals?

I'm just trying to get this truck going and stop its leaks, and I can't afford to drop $500 on valve covers... if they really are built in some one some where HAS to have come up with a workaround. I really can't believe Nissan would design it this way. Any insight from anyone who's done the service? Haven't ordered any parts or torn it apart yet to see for myself.

Sorry if this question comes up frequently. Just got this truck recently and its injured. Trying to get it going as cheaply as possible as its not worth a whole lot anymore.

Thanks in advance.

[atraudes]

The seals can absolutely be removed, and replacements seem to be available. That said, I base that statement off of having bought some valve covers off eBay, pulling the old crusty seals out using a seal puller, and installing these. I haven't installed the new covers yet so I can't be certain I installed them right, but there doesn't seem to be much to it. Just be sure not to gouge the side of the cover when you use the puller. I would recommend doing them one at a time to be certain of how far to drive them in.

If you're at all uncertain about pressing the new ones in, I'm sure a shop would install them for a cool $20

Hope that helps and post back with how it goes and what you did!

[Toyojay]

The seals can absolutely be removed, and replacements seem to be available. That said, I base that statement off of having bought some valve covers off eBay, pulling the old crusty seals out using a seal puller, and installing these. I haven't installed the new covers yet so I can't be certain I installed them right, but there doesn't seem to be much to it. Just be sure not to gouge the side of the cover when you use the puller. I would recommend doing them one at a time to be certain of how far to drive them in.

If you're at all uncertain about pressing the new ones in, I'm sure a shop would install them for a cool $20

Hope that helps and post back with how it goes and what you did!

Yeah, those look just like the Nissan seals I found online! Great to hear. How easily did they pull out with the puller? Did you just press the new ones in by hand or did you use a different tool? When will you be installing them?

[atraudes]

They're in there pretty tight, but it wasn't too hard to get them out. I think I used a large deep socket and rubber hammer to drive the new ones in (definitely not something you can do by hand). I remember it being tricky to get them to go in straight, so make sure you have a good work surface. I will probably give it a go in the spring. I don't have a garage right now so I'm at the mercy of the weather which hasn't been forgiving lately

Pulling and installing them was pretty similar to the seal on the back of our wheel hubs, if you've ever done that.

It might be a good idea to buy two sets of the seals in case you end up hosing one.

[Toyojay]

Good call. I won't be tackling it for a couple of weeks. I only have time to work on it on the weekends, am currently getting the brakes and wheel bearings finished up first. Then I'll be dealing with all the oil leaks. So that was a good example with the hub seals, as that is the one thing I have done with my Nissan thus far haha.

I think I'll do the same as you, no reason it shouldn't seal as long as the seal sticks out the same amount and is installed straight. Very relieved I won't have to spend $500 on new valve covers! I'll repost when I get it done with my results and some photos.

Thanks

[Hawairish]

Hey Toyojay,

Meant to reply to your post over at NPORA, but I'm not entirely sure the seals are an easy swap. Another member was asking about them the other day, and when I looked into it, it seems some valve covers have a plastic inner baffle of sorts that isn't removable. Not sure when this might have been implemented. However, from what I understood from some related videos, a hole saw appeared to be part of the solution. Sorry I don't have any links or info handy, but see if you can find my response on NPORA.

[EdBwoy]

I believe I have had both metal and later updated plastic valve covers in my hands. Somehow I ended up installing the metal ones in the Qx4, probably because of the more easily replaceable plug seals. I don't think it was too bad, just placed the valve cover on a flat surface, probably over a towel and put a blunt screwdriver to push them out (into the cover). It wasn't too hard to press the new ones in.
As suggested, I bought a set of 12 just in case, and apparently I did something right since I still have 6 lying around.

[atraudes]

The set I got off eBay was from another 2001 QX4, and looked like this



I also found this video, and based on what I saw there and what I have, I'm going to posit that if you have aluminum valve covers, you can replace the seals. If yours are black, it's the plastic not serviceable variety. Hawairish, would that be consistent with what you've seen?



EdBwoy, did you buy yours used like I did? If so, did you get them cleaned up at all? The inside of mine were particle blasted but I'm tempted to pop the welds off that metal plate in there and have that blasted as well, to get the baffles cleared up. I hear they can get clogged which causes the excess oil in the intake manifold. I'm just not sure how I'd get it reattached. Maybe just have someone weld it back on...

[EdBwoy]

...

EdBwoy, did you buy yours used like I did? If so, did you get them cleaned up at all? The inside of mine were particle blasted but I'm tempted to pop the welds off that metal plate in there and have that blasted as well, to get the baffles cleared up. I hear they can get clogged which causes the excess oil in the intake manifold. I'm just not sure how I'd get it reattached. Maybe just have someone weld it back on...

I can't recall exactly where they came from. I had a 2002 Qx4 whose engine had already been replaced. I bought a used engine from a 2003 pathy, and somehow at the end of the day only have aluminum valve covers on the Qx4. Mine were quite dirty too and generous amounts of wd-40 alternating with b-12 carb cleaner made them presentable.

And with all the Nissan black valve covers I have handled, I agree that the plastic ones are not easily serviceable. Trust me, I tried and broke one or 2 of them trying to figure a workaround.

[Hawairish]

I'm going to posit that if you have aluminum valve covers, you can replace the seals. If yours are black, it's the plastic not serviceable variety. Hawairish, would that be consistent with what you've seen?

You know, that could be it. Honestly, I don't even recall what mine has (not home to check until Friday), but I thought they all had aluminum covers. Sifting around some eBay listings, I see most of them with black covers, but some aluminum...and that's for the R50 variant of the VQ35DE. Looks like non-R50s had the black ones, which is a bit more consistent with the videos and discussions about it.

Here's that link btw: http://www.rndfactory.com/Web/instruction-nissan-A.html
I don't think the seals here are any different than what you can get from online, it just includes a hole saw?

Now I'm wondering if I should tackle this project, too. I'm planning to swap out the PCV valve next (gasp)...may as well since I'm already in there?

[Toyojay]

Ok. From the research I've done I have only seen black plastic valve covers. I will have to check and see which ones I have. It would seem the black plastic ones and the aluminum ones are interchangeable, so they could be swapped for the replaceable seals.

I won't be able to look at mine until Sunday, I'll post back then. Were the aluminum ones only installed on the QX4 from the factory?

EDIT: I found this one on ebay, does this look like the one you guys have got?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-Nissan-Pat ... GQ&vxp=mtr

I thought the spark plug holes were in the middle, not towards one side. I called Nissan and by VIN these are the VC's for my truck. 13264-4W00B and 13264-4W01B.... based on a google search they appear to be aluminum.

What do you guys think?

[Toyojay]

I'm going to posit that if you have aluminum valve covers, you can replace the seals. If yours are black, it's the plastic not serviceable variety. Hawairish, would that be consistent with what you've seen?

You know, that could be it. Honestly, I don't even recall what mine has (not home to check until Friday), but I thought they all had aluminum covers. Sifting around some eBay listings, I see most of them with black covers, but some aluminum...and that's for the R50 variant of the VQ35DE. Looks like non-R50s had the black ones, which is a bit more consistent with the videos and discussions about it.

Here's that link btw: http://www.rndfactory.com/Web/instruction-nissan-A.html
I don't think the seals here are any different than what you can get from online, it just includes a hole saw?

Now I'm wondering if I should tackle this project, too. I'm planning to swap out the PCV valve next (gasp)...may as well since I'm already in there?

From what I've read...having the intake off, and doing the VC is the perfect time to do the PCV valve, I'm ordering one for mine to do at the same time as well.

The hole saw procedure looks pretty easy, but if that were the case.... couldn't one just remove the baffle plate, replace the seals and then put the baffle plate back in without modifying it at all? Unless the new seal is taller than the old and hits prevents the baffle plate from seating..... Am I missing something? He also does not mention which seals those are. Perhaps the OEM Nissan ones that are listed in other threads?

[atraudes]

EDIT: I found this one on ebay, does this look like the one you guys have got?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-Nissan-Pat ... GQ&vxp=mtr

I thought the spark plug holes were in the middle, not towards one side. I called Nissan and by VIN these are the VC's for my truck. 13264-4W00B and 13264-4W01B.... based on a google search they appear to be aluminum.

The pictured covers are all wrong. Like you said, the spark plug holes are off, the front and rear ends don't have a large dip, the filler neck is differently shaped and molded into them, and there's not even a baffle inside! It doesn't even resemble the 3.3L covers The part numbers might be accurate, but I'm guessing they mixed something up on the seller's end.

[Hawairish]

The hole saw procedure looks pretty easy, but if that were the case.... couldn't one just remove the baffle plate, replace the seals and then put the baffle plate back in without modifying it at all? Unless the new seal is taller than the old and hits prevents the baffle plate from seating..... Am I missing something? He also does not mention which seals those are. Perhaps the OEM Nissan ones that are listed in other threads?

I think the baffle is sonically welded to the valve cover. This is based on a note in the link I posted that warns to not remove it. I'm more curious of it's purpose in the first place. Considering there's only one VC gasket set, I presume the VCs to be interchangeable.

I probably will tackle the gaskets and seals while I'm at it, but it's a helluva lot more work than I was planning. But at 170K on the dial, guess it's due for some lovin'.

[Toyojay]

EDIT: I found this one on ebay, does this look like the one you guys have got?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-Nissan-Pat ... GQ&vxp=mtr

I thought the spark plug holes were in the middle, not towards one side. I called Nissan and by VIN these are the VC's for my truck. 13264-4W00B and 13264-4W01B.... based on a google search they appear to be aluminum.

The pictured covers are all wrong. Like you said, the spark plug holes are off, the front and rear ends don't have a large dip, the filler neck is differently shaped and molded into them, and there's not even a baffle inside! It doesn't even resemble the 3.3L covers The part numbers might be accurate, but I'm guessing they mixed something up on the seller's end.

I knew it looked different! I guess I'm just going to have to be patient and wait until I can get out to my truck to see what I've got. I'm sure those part numbers are the correct ones for the VC's.

Do the VQ valve covers have gromments under each bolt that need to be replaced? (like a Jeep 4.0L if anybody has done one of those)

[Toyojay]

The hole saw procedure looks pretty easy, but if that were the case.... couldn't one just remove the baffle plate, replace the seals and then put the baffle plate back in without modifying it at all? Unless the new seal is taller than the old and hits prevents the baffle plate from seating..... Am I missing something? He also does not mention which seals those are. Perhaps the OEM Nissan ones that are listed in other threads?

I think the baffle is sonically welded to the valve cover. This is based on a note in the link I posted that warns to not remove it. I'm more curious of it's purpose in the first place. Considering there's only one VC gasket set, I presume the VCs to be interchangeable.

I probably will tackle the gaskets and seals while I'm at it, but it's a helluva lot more work than I was planning. But at 170K on the dial, guess it's due for some lovin'.

Yep, I'm just ahead of you at 195k but probably with more leaks LOL. I imagine the baffle is there for the PCV system. Yeah, I saw the same note and thought because it was noted that it was removable. Based on some google image searches it seems like MOST of the VQ35's with the pathfinder/QX intake installed seems to have aluminum valve covers. We might be in the clear!

[atraudes]

Do the VQ valve covers have gromments under each bolt that need to be replaced? (like a Jeep 4.0L if anybody has done one of those)

Some of the valve cover gasket kits I've seen out there include those grommets, so I'm guessing yes. That said, I don't see them on courtesyparts.com, so maybe not. They don't have the VC bolts either, though Maybe call a dealership and see what they say.

[Toyojay]

Do the VQ valve covers have gromments under each bolt that need to be replaced? (like a Jeep 4.0L if anybody has done one of those)

Some of the valve cover gasket kits I've seen out there include those grommets, so I'm guessing yes. That said, I don't see them on courtesyparts.com, so maybe not. They don't have the VC bolts either, though Maybe call a dealership and see what they say.

They don't have it listed, hmm. I just noticed under the part number for the VC I posted earlier, on courtesyparts they list that same number as fitting a 2000 model with the VG33... That can't be right.

[Hawairish]

They don't have it listed, hmm. I just noticed under the part number for the VC I posted earlier, on courtesyparts they list that same number as fitting a 2000 model with the VG33... That can't be right.

...which is funny because Rock Auto says the gaskets also fit the VQ40DE (which wouldn't surprise me), not the VG33DE.

Where is the kit pictured available from?

Also, checked my covers tonight...I have the plastic ones.

[Toyojay]

...which is funny because Rock Auto says the gaskets also fit the VQ40DE (which wouldn't surprise me), not the VG33DE.

Where is the kit pictured available from?

Also, checked my covers tonight...I have the plastic ones.

Interesting....
Something is wrong, we know the VG and VQ valve covers are different. Perhaps its just a crappy picture for the part online.
I'll post up on Sunday with my valve covers, maybe we can try to get a count of some sort based on the year of the vehicle and aluminum vs plastic.

[atraudes]

Also, checked my covers tonight...I have the plastic ones.

Sorry to hear it! It's one of those rare times I'm glad I have an early model.

The picture I posted was for this Ishino set, who also sells this set. I think the only difference is production date compatibility (is there a difference??). I also found that Beck Arnley and Victor Reinz include them in their sets as well.

These gaskets fit a lot of vehicles, including some Suzuki. Check out the compatibility tab here. I'm shocked it fits the 4.0 too!

[Toyojay]

Also, checked my covers tonight...I have the plastic ones.

Sorry to hear it! It's one of those rare times I'm glad I have an early model.

The picture I posted was for this Ishino set, who also sells this set. I think the only difference is production date compatibility (is there a difference??). I also found that Beck Arnley and Victor Reinz include them in their sets as well.

These gaskets fit a lot of vehicles, including some Suzuki. Check out the compatibility tab here. I'm shocked it fits the 4.0 too!

I think that actually makes sense, it shows everything that those fits having a VQ35 or VQ40. Aren't the 35 and the 40 the same motor with the 40 having a larger bore/stroke? IIRC the Suzuki truck was just a re-badged copy of the Nissan Frontier, so it would have the VQ40 also. Does anyone know if the VQ40 has aluminum covers on anything its installed in?

[atraudes]

Good call, but all of the VQ40DEs I see on eBay have black covers

[Hawairish]

I'm shocked it fits the 4.0 too!

I think that actually makes sense, it shows everything that those fits having a VQ35 or VQ40. Aren't the 35 and the 40 the same motor with the 40 having a larger bore/stroke? IIRC the Suzuki truck was just a re-badged copy of the Nissan Frontier, so it would have the VQ40 also. Does anyone know if the VQ40 has aluminum covers on anything its installed in?

Yes, the Suzuki Equator was manufactured by Nissan and based on the Frontier. Haven't searched, but I would suspect that Nissan went to plastic on all their engines by 05.

I'm actually not surprised about the VQ35 and VQ40 cross-ref, though. In fact, according to the VQ Wiki https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_VQ_engine[/url], the bore is the same (95.5mm) and stroke is 10.6mm longer (92.0 vs 81.4).

The engines are probably dimensionally the same, too. In fact, I've been doing some light research about how they mount with a future pipe-dream to swap it in. If the block is same/similar, our motor mount brackets should bolt on. I can also tell you that the exhaust manifold gaskets are the same...which means that headers for 05+ models may actually bolt onto our VQ35 heads and just require some custom cat/pipe work. But, I want the VQ40 so I can get a better 5-speed AT (or even 6-speed MT) than the lousy 4-speed AT it came with...but hopefully that's years down the road when mine $h1t$ the bed.

So, found these pics of the aluminum covers for reference:





Sources:
http://www.japanesetruckdismantling.net ... -4w001.htm
http://www.japanesetruckdismantling.net ... -4w011.htm

Since RockAuto only lists grommets for 01-02 models, which presumably only had aluminum valve covers, the plastic covers must not use them...which explains why I don't see them listed for my 04 model.

[Toyojay]

Fantastic! I also did some light research on the VQ40, it seems they have a taller deck height (244mm to the vq35's 215mm? IIRC) too so that may cause hood clearance issues with our pathys. I reckon your right though, I bet it would fit our motor mounts, and exhaust. The wiring would be the fun part lol, but I've driven a 05+ (second gen?) Frontier, and the 4.0 is quite ballsy! Would be fun in the small pathfinder, as the VQ35 is already pretty tourqey. Go with the 6 speed! Life is much better with a 3rd pedal!

I have a strong feeling when I get to my Nissan this weekend, I'll find aluminum valve covers being a 2001 model. From what I've read it seems like thats the ONLY vehicle Nissan ever put aluminum covers for the VQ on.

[Hawairish]

How's the deck height measured, and does that count all the plastic stuff up top? It probably wouldn't be too tough to clearance that. But yeah, would be an interesting swap.

Agreed, though: the 4.0 does have some pep! My rental "car" this week was a 2015 Frontier CC 4WD. I rented a brand new 2016 the other week, too. I really like how the engine feels. I definitely wouldn't mind going back to a stick...in fact, my PF is the first AT I've owned, and that was a tough pill to swallow for me (most recently coming from a 6-speed WRX and Wrangler.)

Nissan was probably just wrapping up an era of aluminum covers by then, I imagine. All the KA, SR, RB, and VG lines before were all aluminum as well until the engines phased out. I don't think the plastic covers are terrible by any means though...light weight probably being the best benefit for us, but surely cheaper to manufacture, and with no other performance drawbacks.

[atraudes]

Yeah, I'm playing with the idea of getting new plastic ones from the dealer and installing those instead (they go for ~$180 on courtesyparts.com). The perks being that I would know the valve guides are installed right and the baffles will be clean as a whistle (and may employ an improved design)!

Some pictures of the Beck/Arnley covers:





One thing that has me concerned is it looks like the #1 spark plug looks to have a higher offset on the aluminum set, whereas it's the same height (flush) as the others on the plastic. If that's the case they're not going to be interchangeable without some modification.

Another pointer I picked up in my perusing is to apply some oil to the tubes and seals before you try to press the covers on. Doing so dry may tear up the seal.

[Toyojay]

How's the deck height measured, and does that count all the plastic stuff up top? It probably wouldn't be too tough to clearance that. But yeah, would be an interesting swap.

Agreed, though: the 4.0 does have some pep! My rental "car" this week was a 2015 Frontier CC 4WD. I rented a brand new 2016 the other week, too. I really like how the engine feels. I definitely wouldn't mind going back to a stick...in fact, my PF is the first AT I've owned, and that was a tough pill to swallow for me (most recently coming from a 6-speed WRX and Wrangler.)

Nissan was probably just wrapping up an era of aluminum covers by then, I imagine. All the KA, SR, RB, and VG lines before were all aluminum as well until the engines phased out. I don't think the plastic covers are terrible by any means though...light weight probably being the best benefit for us, but surely cheaper to manufacture, and with no other performance drawbacks.

The deck height is the measurement to the of the cylinder deck on the block. I believe it to be measured from the center line of the crankshaft to the top of the block. Nothing on top, no head or VC included in that measurement. The 4.0 block itself is taller. Around an inch taller or so I think.

I've had predominately manuals as well, I haven't owned one in 2 or so years now until I got my PF a couple of weeks ago. Test driving my Tacoma, I threw the salesman into the dash going for the ghost clutch and clipping the brake! HA.

You're right about the plastic covers, there really isn't a problem with them being made of plastic. It is lighter, probably disperses heat better, and cheaper to make....I just have a problem with the NON replaceable gaskets that leak! I think that's a crappy decision on Nissan's part. I work for Toyota, and I see it sometimes with our cars too. I can't stand automakers that basically give you no other choice but to return to them for an expensive assembly just to keep your car on the road. We've been getting those seals from the parts house for years. Why stop now? Lol.

[Toyojay]

Yeah, I'm playing with the idea of getting new plastic ones from the dealer and installing those instead (they go for ~$180 on courtesyparts.com). The perks being that I would know the valve guides are installed right and the baffles will be clean as a whistle (and may employ an improved design)!

Some pictures of the Beck/Arnley covers:

One thing that has me concerned is it looks like the #1 spark plug looks to have a higher offset on the aluminum set, whereas it's the same height (flush) as the others on the plastic. If that's the case they're not going to be interchangeable without some modification.

Another pointer I picked up in my perusing is to apply some oil to the tubes and seals before you try to press the covers on. Doing so dry may tear up the seal.

You don't think your aluminum covers you put the seals in will work? Why the doubt?

I hadn't noticed that difference. I guess the coil for that cylinder is a tad longer to compensate for that on the aluminum cover engine. It would seem that you could still do the swap, you'd just have to replace that coil too with the covers...or grind the boss down on the aluminum cover.

[atraudes]

I have aluminum installed now so the potential height difference on spark 1 on the plastic may not work. My trepidation about the set in use and the set I bought is I don't know if the baffles are blocked, but maybe I'm just overthinking this.