Post by
rwanttaja »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/rwanttaja-u45048.html
Sun Aug 13, 2006 7:27 am
Engine Noise:I have noticed the engine is loud inside the car. Just driving with the rpm on 2k creates a hum inside. On the highway it is really loud, you have to put the stereo volume on 20 or more to drown it out.
That's about where I usually run my stereo, too, but most of the noise I'm getting seems to be tire/road related.
One thing you might look at, depending on which radio you have: The radio with the CD changer includes a feature that increases the radio volume with the vehicle speed! My wife has the Versa out of town this weekend, but I found it just by calling up the Bass-Treble-Balance adjust mode on the radio and scrolling through the options. IIRC, there are three settings: High, Medium, and Low (or off). Yours might be off. I actually had to change mine from High to Medium, 'cause the radio was getting TOO loud on the road.
Wind Noise:Once I get to around 60mph I get a loud irritating wind noise coming from the front windshield on the drivers side.
I'm definitely not getting that, on my Versa. Manufacturing tolerances probably ganged up on your car to leave a small gap in the trim. That happened with my Dad's Buick...when the car got to 60 MPH or so and the wind caught the car just right, there was an incredibly loud reedy fluttering sound. Drove him nuts.
What happened in his case...and might be happening in yours...is that the windshield border trim (which consisted of about four or six individual pieces of metal or plastic) had been assembled to leave a small gap between two of the pieces. The wind was whistling in the gap and fluttering a small piece of sealant inside.
You've got things a bit easier in your case: It apparently happens ALL the time, not just in certain wind conditions.
Rattles and wind noises are sometimes gray areas, as far as waranties are concerned. They *are* often hard to hunt down and fix, and the manufacturers may balk at paying for the diagnostic time. The dealers also sometimes balance which *car* is involved, too...if the customer owns a $50,000 Maxima, it's in the dealer's best interest to keep him or her happy in the hopes their next car will be another new Maxima. They may not bend over backwards as far for a $16,000 Versa owner.
But...your Versa is still practically new, and the dealer should fix this.
To make their job easier, though, do a little detective work and try to hunt down what's causing the noise. Examine anyplace where two parts come together in the area with the wind noise. If you find a gap or discontinuity, slap a piece of scotch tape over it and take the car for a drive. If the noise goes away, take the tape off and make your dealer appointment. When you bring the car in, point at the spot and mention how it stopped when you used the tape.
If you don't find the cause of the noise, take it in, anyway. The dealer will have to spend their own diagnostic time, but that's part of the business.
BTW, lest one get too bad an impression about the dealerships being reluctant to do rattle/noise work under warranty, you should realize that the manufacturer pays for warranty service under a flat rate. The manufacturer generates a manual that says, "Diagnosing and repairing XXXX problem will take four hours." And when the dealer applies for compensation for doing that service, they'd get the four hours' worth...whether the actual repair took one hour or three days. Dealership mechanics are also usually compensated on the flat-rate system, so it's the ordinary Joe with the wrench who takes the hit.
In most cases, the flat-rate manual is very conservative, so the mechanic comes out ahead. The trouble is, rattles and other noise complaints often take a disproportionate amount of diagnostic time, which usually isn't reflected in the flat rate manual. So if *you* can do the diagnostic work first, everyone is happier.
In the case of my Dad's Buick, it was out of warranty by the time I'd come to visit and finally found the problem. Dad use a hot-glue gun to fill the gap, wiped the surface off flush, and the problem disappeared. I'd have used silicone RTV myself, but Dad's a traditionalist... :-)
Weird Fan Noise: When I am at a drive thru window I hear something very loud like a fan noise. It shuts off after a while and then comes back on again. It is annoying and makes it hard to hear the speakers at drive thrus. Its almost like a revving sound, on the drivers side. I tried switching the ac on and off and it did not affect it.
What you're *probably* hearing is the normal radiator fan. Back when I was in knee pants, cars had the engines mounted so the water pump was at the front of the car, and they'd install a fan on the water pump to pull air through the radiator all the time.
When companies switched to transverse-mounted engines and front-wheel drive, the water pump was now on the side of the car. So they mounted a separate fan, powered by an electric motor, behind the radiator.
Now, one thing about these fans: They aren't really needed when the car is moving, since the motion of the car drives more air through the radiator than the fan could ever pull. Turning the fan all the time wastes fuel. It didn't make much difference back in the dawn o' time when I learned to drive, when gas was 33 cents a gallon.
But as fuel consumption became more important, the manufacturers took a look at the fan. The first thing they added was a clutch that would let the fan free-wheel unless the engine coolant was hot enough to need a cooling boost.
When they went to transverse engines and electricly-operated fans, it got even easier. They added a temperature switch to the coolant, so the fan only turns on when needed.
When is it most needed? Well, when the car runs on the road or highway for a while, coming up to operating temperature, then stops and idles for a while.
Which describes exactly what is happening when you go to the drive-through. It's like when you've been swiming laps. You feel cool, because the water is flowing past you taking the heat away. But if you climb out of the pool, your body is still hot, but the coolant is no longer flowing.
So I think what you've been hearing is normal. Your car warms up, but then the air stops flowing through the radiator, and the fan kicks on to help things cool. Since you're at a drive-up window, the side of the building or the drive-up kiosk actually reflects the sound back at you.
To test this, drive for a while, then pull into a parking lot, leave the engine running, open the hood, and watch the fan. You'll probably see it kick on.
One safety note: These fans operate in accordance to the internal physics of the engine, which may NOT be immediately comprehensible to the viewing human. Never, EVER put your hands near the fan. It will come on without warning, and you'll may be very seriously injured. In some cars, the fan will even come on when the engine is turned off. So stay away from it!
Ron